Just wanted to thank you for teaching me this process over the years. I don’t operate with the volume you do but have done 6 refinings ending up with about a 10gr button of pure gold each time (xrf tested). It has been a great and rewarding hobby. Thanks again!
Finally! I was really looking forward to a new video refining. And there is going to be a part 2. Got my coffee, snuggling in bed and enjoying this moment in time with like-minded people. ❤
The watch you use as a timer is a testament to how corrosive it is inside the fume hood. It doesn't seem like that long ago it was shiny and new...Great video as always.
Seems the forceps have suffered as well, maybe next time you need a silicon coated one with roughened finger holes for a better grip? Silicon against standard issue rubber coated tines might be the answer. Seems like there would be a need for that and Korea would satisfy it.
I use an ultasonic cleaner at my job to clean the nozzles for my assembly machine. I make electronic circuit boards for the military. I love that cleaner works fantastic
While adding the Fe+2 solution, the Auric chloride solution becomes darker red just before a precipitate of Au forms. This is beautiful since you are making Au nanoparticles that are brownish-red due to plasmon resonance. You are doing some fancy nanomaterial synthesis 😃
I believe that you’re supposed to add the sand to the bottom of the beaker to give the steam a point to titrate… It’s like adding glass chips commonly known as boiling chips
In order for a sand bath to work you need a thicker layer, at least half an inch. Als long as there is solid gold in the beaker boiling chips ar not needed.
Good evening Sreetips 🏴☠️🤠 I am now sitting on a pound of pure silver. Thats nice 👍 Im getting there. Thank you for sharing your refining video with us. Nice Work 🙏 God Bless
@@sreetips Yes, and make a water chiller as per the OP several episodes before recommended, as well as the fresh ice. You'll be able to start it up about 1hour before the shot drop and it will come in very handy when you do your cement silver as well. Still looking good Kevin!
I wouldn't inquart with silver crystal or cement. I'm sure you could, but from my understanding after many many videos, is that you want to inquart the sterling silver so you can then later on recover in the electrolytic silver cell for high purity silver. but I'm no expert. I just enjoy watching
That’s correct. Using cement silver is not recommended because palladium can build up in it and cause problems in the silver cell. Pure silver crystal is not recommended because it’s already been through the cell, be like taking a step backwards.
when you are sorting and labeling the gold you acquire.. can you include how much you pay for the gold as a whole or as you are sorting... would be appreciated
My wife found a nice hoard, about three grand in gold jewelry. But she didn’t have enough on her to buy it, they were asking five hundred for it. She only had about three. She called me, I went to the bank and got the money. But when I showed up, they had already sold it to someone else. You’ve got to have the currency on you when you’re looking. If you make a deal, then have to run and get the paper to pay for it, it almost always falls apart to someone else who has the paper dollars on the spot. I’ve gone to sales and got there a little late only to watch another buyer walking past me with a hand full of gold. It can be frustrating like that. But it goes both ways. I’ve walked out of a sale with a jewelry box full of gold jewelry just as one of my competitors is getting out of their car.
Where can I buy gold scrap without paying spot gold price for the scrap? I pour over eBay looking for precious metal lots and every one of them are asking spot or higher prices for the estimated gold content? I have followed you for years and I have built my lab according to your videos. Thank you for helping me and the other people here!!!
Try getting up early and going to yard sales. We used to find handfuls of scrap gold jewelry every week end about twelve or fifteen years ago when gold was at six or seven hundred.
If you were to start over again from scratch would you get the cheapest fume hood you can find, or would you spring for a fancy one? Do I need to do any additional processing of the exhaust?
Fancy isn't necessary, but I would recommend getting a good quality. As long as the worst your exhaust is spewing out is nitrogen dioxide in relatively small amounts, no additional processing is necessary.
Get one that is suitable for acid digestions - no metal parts. If I was starting over, I’d get a large 500 gallon poly-plastic tank with a six inch connection on top and make my own design. Install an “F” rated motor (high heat applications) and external mounted fan in the attic.
In these later nitric acid boils on the inquarted gol you might want to skip the water and just put the nitric, it seems that the higher the strength of the acid the better and if you don't dilute it you might not need as many boils.
The water is needed to provide a medium for the dissolved metals to go into. Think of using just liquid dish soap to wash your hands. It would get them clean, but adding a little water would make the soap work much more efficiently. Same with adding water to dilute the nitric acid.
Azeotropic nitric acid is 33-35% water and the final few grams of base metals and silver should be able to dissolve into it. Yu could also put the nitric in first and then after it has had time to do the work you could put in a splash of water. Mind you I am only talking about the last couple of boils.
@@fenrisulfur666 this will work and does not need heat to strengthen or enhance the dissolution reaction. Pouring water into standard strength acids is not recommended for several reasons, check out why, there might be a video for demonstration!
Do it as you oughta put your acid into water. The thing is azeotropic nitric and hydrochloric acids will have a fair amount of water in them, that is 35% and 73% respectively and them being azeotropic you cannot get them stronger by boiling them. I assure you that it is not a problem to add water into these acids, even boiling. If you have anhydrous 18M sulfuric being heated much higher than the boiling point of water and put water in it then maybe it can get a little sporty but just about every other "normal" acid is alright. Sreetips himself puts ice cubes into aqua regia after all.
So i have a question, well two actually. Why do you shake the beaker to stir rather than using a stir stick? And secondly why do you wear leather gloves and not those big runner gloves when handling these chemicals?
1) a glass rod puts marks in the glass inside the beaker and it’s easier to give it a swirl. 2) sometimes I’m in a hurry and just throw those leather gloves on because they’re easier to put on my hands.
@@sreetips leather works well enough for all the cow chemists I know. Other than the occassional drop of surfuric, nitric, hydrochloric, they have held up very well. Just don't wash them unless you neutralize the acids first. They would fall apart fast I imagine. And the glove dryer needed is a bit on the extreme side of tres chic.
@@sreetips a silicon coated rod might not scratch the glass, or try a bamboo chopstick double dipped in tool coat. Good luck finding a deep but narrow coating tray if you go the diy way.
What if you poured the melted gold and silver into a small, elongated bar and flattened it? Like jewelers do between rollers or with a hammer on an anvil ;) You can use rollers to make a thin sheet that will be digested faster than pellets.
Yes, but it’s not necessary because for some strange reason the gold seems to settle very quickly after FeSO4 precipitation. Or maybe it just looks that way because the solution turns so dark that I can’t see if the gold has actually settled or not.
Why do you list your weights 14k, 10k, 18k instead of in order 10, 14, 18? I know it's trivial, but you consistently do it in all your videos. So I was curious for the reason.
It’s some weird tradition (within my own mind) sequenced in most common form of karate: 14k, then the next most common: 10k, and finally the least common: 18k. But then, it’s backwards going right to left instead of left to right. That’s how I started doing it. And it just stuck.
@@sreetips And like any meditation, tradition, mantra, soothing is the key. So, turn your hats to a jaunty angle and batter up! Just thinking about that phrase, it could be used in the fish and chips world as well, now I'm hungry... where is my malt vinegar bottle? Ah, wasting away in soured sprouted grain again... for a tortured scansion, thanks JB. A great story teller the world had for too short a time, but we still have what music he made to remember him.
Because the crystals are beautiful and pure already, so inquarting with them is a waste of the effort it took to make them. As for the cement silver, something similar applies. You already pulled the silver through your acids, so why inquart with it when you're going to cement it later? In short it's just not very efficient. That being said, if for some odd reason you can't find enough sterling, you can recycle the silver you have on hand, yes, because an atom of silver is an atom of silver, no matter the form. Another good reason to always inquart with sterling is the likelihood that you come through on occasion with a few atoms of gold that was on the sterling in the form of plate or accents make of karat gold. This is added to your gold you are deliberately refining.
Because the cement silver has a much lower concentration of copper so you loose the blue color indicator that lets you know when the base metals have been removed. Also, the cement silver tends to have higher concentrations of metals that are undesirable for your refining inputs such as PGMs, Lead, and Tin. You can use it but it’s likely to cause issues throughout the refining processes.
I wouldn't waste my hard earned crystals to do it I was just curious if it was possible if you adjusted for the purity. I'm going to assume that old 90% silver would work just as well, again with a slight adjustment for purity. I plan to refine my first gold here soon. I just need a few more pieces of karat to make a decent run. I will be using sterling to inquart.
Out of curiosity do you keep the filter paper you use for the stannous tests? I know it's going to be an absolutely miniscule amount but it's still there.
I’m looking for a dog tag style pendant, nothing on it. If you have one for sale i would really appreciate. Love your videos, I’m in Canada. I know i could just go buy one ,but it would be Awesome if i could get one from you. I wana do a Medic Alert Charm.
@@sreetips I meant writing the word on the funnel not putting it in. It seems you always forget to put it in the solution before filtering... That's why it might help.
Why dilute the nitric acid wouldn't it be better if it were just the acid can it only consume only so much at a time and needs the water to put it in solution I've heard you talk about it being dehydrated before but then you put more acid in just wondering
Adding the hydrochloric acid actually adds a good deal of water since it is still a dilute solution. Standard concentration is around 37-38 percent since it will evaporate very swiftly above that concentration. Dilute means usually a 50/50 mixture but that can vary depending on the acid and actually on the mood of the chemist. Always best to err on the more dilute rather than more concentrated since the metals need something in which to dissolve or accumulate. Dehydration in a reaction is always a bad thing just like it is in a human!
There are no courses on refining precious metals anywhere. I checked when I first started back on 2010. There were no books (except Hoke) no publications, no periodicals, nothing. Then I stumbled on the goldrefiningforum.com and began my refining hobby there. Harold_V, Lazersteve, Lou, Oz, 4metals, Palladium, FreeChemist, GoldSilverPro, just to name a few. They were very helpful and I pretty much learned enough from them to start my own refining hobby operation. But lots of stuff I learned by trial and error. Gained valuable experience. There’s no substitute for experience.
There are no courses on refining precious metals anywhere. I checked when I first started back on 2010. There were no books (except Hoke) no publications, no periodicals, nothing. Then I stumbled on the goldrefiningforum.com and began my refining hobby there. Harold_V, Lazersteve, Lou, Oz, 4metals, Palladium, FreeChemist, GoldSilverPro, just to name a few. They were very helpful and I pretty much learned enough from them to start my own refining hobby operation. But lots of stuff I learned by trial and error. Gained valuable experience. There’s no substitute for experience.
Yes, but it sends the indicator up into the diamond range much slower. A real diamonds slings it up fast and hard. After you’ve seen it you can start to tell if it’s diamond or moissanite by how it reacts with the tester.
Piranha solution works best on organic compounds, not metals. However, I wonder how it would work for something like filter paper recoveries or the bobbing compound from his jeweler friend. Those both seem to jam up filter papers, but with piranha solution all the hydrocarbons would be reduced to water and co2 basically. Something to think about.
tips, bless you, your knowledgable lovely wife and family ,as a talented artist and all around high i q gentalman, i hope you have a retainable castle that is difficult to storm, in the comming days, we,d hate to seee you with you lol ,pants down be set for some bedlum...... keep safe till we regain big tec, and the presidency.... vote for your freedom to do the best a man can do.
The world is a dangerous place to live. All is not well, but I believe that all is as it should be. Thank God there’s an end to this madness. Can you imagine being stuck here forever? I’ll cast my vote. But it’s in God’s hands. I put my faith and trust in Him. Because it is to Him that I’ll return. We live on a beautiful planet, created by God, owned and operated by the Devil.
Another great video. Would you think it would be worth the investment to buy an electric cauldron to melt the metals and using solar panels to cut down the overhead? I mean, at first the cost would be expensive. But on yhe long run it would pay for itself. What are your thoughts? 😎👍🇨🇦
i started the process i put the red to the item and black to the stainless steel, hopefully after a few days of been in i can wash and scrape off the silver into another container rinse and repeat for it all :) ru-vid.comfjouTnEgRp8?si=idARe8A6JjNoEJoe then its time for phase 2 of getting out the silver by filter or evaporation maybe ? ill keep you updated,
streetips , Had a thought . If you and your suppliers of lab gear & chemicals would want to ? Give links for gear & chemicals , maybe discounts & commission for you .
I’m looking into that. Met with a fellow who knows about all that kind of stuff. I concentrate on making my video content. I put 110% into these videos. I’m wiped out for at least a day after I get a new one posted. Thinking of taking the day off and going to church this morning.
