Three Ways to Find the Lands! 

My method is actually the last one that Travis showed. The one where you let the lands push bullet in. But it is neck tension dependent. I also put die wax in bullet ogive to prevent it from sticking in the lands. The method of seating bullet deeper and deeper until bolt closes is the Alex Wheeler method. As you said, there are a tons of ways to measure this. Multiple ways to remove outer layer from feline. 😁

ONE CRITICAL THING WITH THE LOCTITE. you need to de-prime the brass! If not, the air inside the case will push out the loctite into the chamber. dont ask me how i know this..

Loctite method seems fine. You can then use a sharpie to write the length right on the case, and keep the whole thing as a reference forever. Ideal. Thanks for bringing this to us.

So cool to see a actual cutaway while you guys explain what’s going on. That definitely makes it clear what every little step on the print is for!

EXCELLENT video - that cutaway shows with complete clarity how a cartridge and bullet sit in the chamber with the tolerances that reloaders talk about. As a raw beginner, that first 4 minutes utterly crystallised so much that I've been trying to understand from books. Many Thanks from the UK.

I’ve used a brass rod and two locking collars. You close the bolt and insert the rod to the bolt face and set a collar at the barrel end. Then insert a bullet and use a pencil or rod to hold pressure on the bullet from the action end. Insert the rod to the bullet tip and set another collar. Measure between them and you have your jam. But Eric’s method is much simpler.

Using the OAL gauge, you're pushing the bullet into the lands, whereas with the other methods, you're not. That is why you're seeing a difference. I've learned to use the gauge and NOT push so hard. Push until you meet resistance then release and then lock the push bar in place. I find that you will see the same kind of measurements as the locktite method.

Great information for reloaders, even if we are not building a rifle or taking our reloading to that degree. Understanding this and seeing it really helps to understand how everything really works together for accuracy!

I agree with Eriks method and have used it for some 40+ years, I do however use a modified version of that for super super exact loadings, What I do for those is I use my normal push back method and add to it by blackening the bullet with a sharpie or carbon black. I insert the test cartridge, close the bolt and note the land marks on the bullet after it has been pushed back. I then repeat 3 x and note the lengths....depending on the marks of the lands on the bullet will let u judge on whether or not your 3 bullets are seating on the lands consistently and with the same force. Always always always measure your length consistencies exactly like you showed in the video, using the apex of the bullet ogive. Beginning shooters might want to measure from the bullet tip but NEVER NEVER do it as tip profiles in the same batch of bullets can vary significantly, the ogive or slope profiles never changes at least in the same lot of bullets......Use a diffrent lot......start all over..... Just saying !!!!!!!

When you’re using the bolt to “jam” it into the lands, coat the bullet with case lube or wax, and the bullet shouldn’t get stuck.

Regarding the locktite method. I always pop the primer out. This allows air to escape out of the back of the case when the bullet is seated in the lands. Stops loctite from seeping out of the case neck into the chamber of the rifle.

Also...for those considering the Hornady gauge, if you send Hornady two fired unsized cases, they will modify your case and send it back to you for $15. I got mine back in about two weeks.

For the last 30 years I’ve used an empty case and superglue instead of Loctite

Gavin I do two things. I use a fire formed case. Next I take out the firing pin and the extractor out of the bolt. Then I put the case and bolt in the gun. If the bolt does not fall closed freely closed I will bump the shoulder of the case .0005 how ever many times it takes until the bolt falls closed. When that part is done the most free clearance you will have with the case is .00045. Then I start the same prosses over with the bullet. I will start with a measurement using the Hornaday gauge. Then I put the case and bullet in the gun. If the bolt does not fall closed then I will seat the bullet by .002 to .003 at a time. You will know when your about perfect. The bolt will start to fall half way then 2/3. At this point I go to .0005 seating change. When the bolt falls closed you will never be more than .00045 off the lands for that bullet batch #. The only reason for doing this is to know that exact length the bullet ogive touches the lands. I've been shooting bench from 1968 to know. The truth of the matter is the way you showed it the video works the same as I've done. Now matter how you find the lands we all start seating bullets + or - from the measurement we both got from our method we used to find the node the gun shoots at. I will say one thing. I made a tool using a seating die plunge and a dial indicator and comp to check ogive to tip of bullet where the plunger sits. I then write this down and check any other bullet I choose. Using math any other bullet I use I will know where to seat the bullet to start making up a new load just off the lands. I love your work keep it up. I built my first rifle in 1978 22PPC. One other thing, the tool I made and the seating die I use for any give caliber I had reamers made to redo there inside where the bullet hit so they are exactly the same. Good luck Rick D.

Gavin, that's the first and best visual demonstration I've seen on this subject. I really liked it, you guys. Maybe another video on where factory ammo is set and the difference of the precise measurement and effects of the differences on performance and barrel ?

For 40 years I have held an unloaded case above a candle to get a good sooty effect. Close the bolt gently, extract, and see if you are touching the lands, and by how much. Seat bullet slightly deeper and repeat the process. When the bolt closes easily and there is only the lightest mark of the lands, you know you are good to go to calculate further seating depth. This may be too inaccurate for the most exacting bench-rest shooters, but it gives me one-hole groups from my .222 Rem. I also prefer to headspace using the bolt rather than the shoulder of the cartridge.

I use the seating die and a resized empty unprimed case. In increments bullet seating further out until it does not chamber and I get rifling/lands marks on the bullet or the opposite and seating further down until it does chamber and no marks are visible but this takes a number of new unmarked bullets. Then I back it off to my desired COL. As stated, bullet type makes a big difference and results are based on each bullet type. I don't get stuck bullets in the lands this way since the bullet is seated. I only do it to know my chamber size. I do not chase the lands like I used to. Some rifles do not like it close to the lands while others do so I shoot different COL loads until I find the "sweet" chamber spot or accuracy node and that sweet spot will change between types of bullets and over time throat erosion. I have a .223 chamber that absolutely hates bullets close to the lands for that short jump. It likes a long jump to hit its best accuracy. Same for a .22-250 chamber.

One issue with using the close the bolt method is that the seating depth might be increased by the pressure of the bolt. Furthermore, then when the bolt is retracted the bullet might ease out slightly from the case. It would seem the loktite method provides a good maintain of the bullet in the case. But I cringe at any red loktite in my chamber!

I’ve used the sharpie method for several decades, but bought hornady’s oal gauge 3-4 years back. I made my own dummy cases (fired in my chambers) and bored and tapped on my lathe. I use a hardwood dowel in conjunction with the gauge to push the bullet back and forth to get a good feel for the contact of the bullet and the lands.

I used to sharpie mark the ogive and look for land marks on the bullet. I've since been using the Hornady OAL gauge and I find the OAL gauge much easier and more accurate on my .223 and .308.

I originally used the last method but got tired of having bullets stuck in the barrel and starting over.. then i used the hornady gauge method.. from now on i will start using the loctite method. I like the idea of having a hard copy of each specific bullet/chamber combo i reload for. Going to loctite it in then laser engrave the bullet/rifle combo on the case! Thanks gavin

When I was getting started I would lightly tap a fired case neck on the bench it would provide enough resistance to let the bullet slide into the lands but also allow it to come out. I would do it 3 times to ensure consistency.

I use the locktite method, however instead of using locktite I use a paper patch around base of bullet to keep it snug in the neck.

Very Good Information. I love the third method (that I have always used) since it requires no special devices or tools and it is easy IF you are shooting different weights, lengths and ogive geometry, Use a once-fired case, tension the neck ONLY and let the lands seat the bullet. Important that you are careful that the land tension does not pull the bullet out of seating during the extraction of the test cartridge. Perform this a few times and look for consistency. I love watching your knowledge evolve Gavin; its evident form early the early vids to the latest. Shoot on!

I've used Travis' method for years. I recently picked up the Hornady tool and haven't quite tested it like you guys but it's interesting to see that the bullet can be pushed further in and logically that makes sense. Thanks for the videos guys!

Thanks for the ongoing videos. Great stuff. I will say I have driven myself crazy trying to get consistent readings with the OAL gauge. (Especially true with VLD bullets.) TINY variances in pressure on the push rod change the distance to the lands a fair bit. It’s a hassle to remove the firing pin and ejector button (Wheeler method) or Barrel for the fingernail lift method (Mark Gordon method, explained in the Precision Rifle Blog), but I have found these methods very consistent.

I think on the last method where you have a seated bullet long and then close the bolt on it you need to make sure that you don't have a lot of neck tension.

I use the OAL method with their factory cases. My problem with that tool is you never get the same reading twice so I take 5 reading and take the average of the closes setting. I'm going to try the Locktite method as that seems like it would be very accurate. Would like to have seen you take multiple reading of each type to see if you get the same reading (or close) every time.

I used to use the hornady tool with modified cases, but swapped over to the wheeler method a couple years ago. Just seemed the most consistent. Also amazing how many people I have seen with the hornday gauge backwards on the caliper. Not difficult to put the screw in the right side so the gauge is centered to the caliper blade.

I use a very similar process as the 3rd one he showed. The only difference is I take a very thin Emery cutting wheel and cut the neck to relieve some of the tension from the size case.

I use a partially sized case, I only size about 1/16 - 1/8 inch of the case mouth. This way the bullet slides into case a bit easier so the bullet is less apt to stick into the rifling. My cast bullet loads take a bit more care on the neck tension. I'll repeat this check several times to average out the measurement, then set a bullet a bit long then using a sharpie on the bullet and progressively seat deeper till I find a length to just mark the place that the bullet fully seals to the throat.

I use the bolt to seat the bullet into the lands. Reason, when i started loading now over 70 years ago, things like comparators didnt exist. But matches for blackening the bullet did.

I always used the modified case that Hornady sales and their OAL tool until I seen the video on how Eric Cortina's does it. He even says he lubes the bullet with sizing die wax to help keep the bullet from sticking and it works really good with bolt action rifles. I still use the Hornady modified case method when I'm working up a load on AR15s. Great video as always keepem coming guys!!!

I’ve always used the 3rd method. I just lightly size the neck and use sharpie marker on the bullet to show lands imprint. Works great and real simple.

The Eric Cortina method is actually shown on a RU-vid video long ago. Look up Alex wheeler's video and watch it. There's things that you need to do before doing the bolt drop test. Things like removing you ejector and firing pin. This method is absolutely the best for determining the exact moment that the bullet comes in contact with the lands. However Eric Cortina did show perhaps a better method , where he doesn't even know where the lands are in relationship to the bullet that I find is either better, or equally useful. You cant look up that video from Eric on RU-vid as well under the title Stop chasing the lands. I've used multiple different methods, and use a portion of each for my own reloading practices. I work off of the thought that you can never have to much information. Keeping track of multiple measurements allows you to build empirical data that helps over time to make better informed decisions based on measurements

You guys make a good team, very enjoyable and educational. Thank you for sharing the video and please keep up the good work !

You use a slip case. Take a Dremel tool and cut a vertical slit down to the shoulder. Debur the inside of the neck. Now you can put bullets into the slip case, load it, and the lands will push them farther in, and you can pull the case out with the bullet and know the OAL where the bullet touches the lands.

Sized case, black sharpie marked bullet to show if there's any pull upon ejection.

Love using the last method that Travis showed. Very simple and works great. Regardless of what method is used - CONSISTANCY is the most important factor - choose a method and stick with it.

Just starting to get into hand loading and it is easy to get lost in the weeds… This video is. very helpful. How do you approach initial cartridge length measurements for a new system? Imagine new rifle, brass, etc… for the initial firing of new brass, the recommended approach is to seat the bullets at the lands… I understand that it is critical to get a measurement from the bolt face to the lands which the gauge method cannot provide. The difference between the gauge measurement and the bolt methods implies extra headspace even on a fired case… it has been mentioned elsewhere that it can take more than a single firing for a case to fully expand to the chamber dimension and there should be some spring back expected as well. Keep up the great work!

It doesnt really matter how you find the lands, but rather how consistent the bullet seating.

Very enlightening. Well done. One comment: (at 2:58 timestamp) It was stated that the ogive is being compressed. It. Is VERY difficult (darn near impossible) to compress metal. Metal is actually being moved (i.e., making burrs in the bullet) by contact with the rifling. This point may seem trivial to some, and is often misunderstood by laymen.

Minimizing jump/finding the lands is one of the more persistent myths (IMO). I was a full on adherent until reading an article back in 2016 that indicated that not all bullets, particularly the newer VLD/ELD designs, responded well to that approach and actually gave better results with more jump. Having acquired a megnetospeed to fine tune my 6.5/RPR loads (never really trusted my Chrony), I set up a test with my, to that point, most accurate load. The change I made was to set the COAL at the 'book' value in the loading manual using Hornady's ELD-M bullet. I then setup of 5 shot loads of incremental COAL increase/Decrease from that point of .001 changes until the COAL maxed out "at the Lands" limit I had previously established with a dummy round. What I found was that the RPR/ELD-M had a very specific 'range' that gave best SD/ES and accuracy and it was NOT anywhere close to the lands. It was a range of approx .003" around the book COAL which was astonishing to me have 'grown' up reloading for over 35 years at that point, believing that best accuracy was ALWAYS found seating the bullet out close to the lands. This did not change when my barrel went past its 'speed bump' that most go through around 300 rounds or so. Like any load customization, what your particular rifle likes is going to be very individual, so really anyone's 'best load' is pretty much an ancedotal one off for that rifle/component combination. But before anyone goes all in on the "get as close to the lands as you can" paradigm, test your rifle with a good chronogrpah like the Magnetospeed or Labradar and spend some time testing various COAL setups. You might be surprised by what you find. IMO - YMMV

EXCELLENT VIDEO GUYS!!!

Without a wordy description, I use the method described in the Speer manual I got back in 1989 when my reloading journey began. I have only modified It slightly over the years but didn’t change the overall method it works for me.

Hi guys liked your Video! I use gel superglue in a fired case with no primer then I push the bolt down quick easy and very effective that then goes into my caliber specific box for that type of bullet if I choose to use same gun different bullet I repeat the step. Easy painless and super effective put gel inside of neck in case then your bullet load the round in push the bolt down wait 5-7 min boom 🤯 done 👍🏻

First thought, do yourself a favor and use the Accuracy One seating depth comparator. It measures between the case shoulder and bullet ogive. So much more precise and quicker than the CBTO method/tool. Saves you on the math too. Hornady OAL is great and is best if you use a fired case with the shoulder bumped .001" so it's sure to chamber smoothly and headspace off of the shoulder. If you don't size (ever so slightly) the body of the case could stop the shell from fully reaching the shoulder and thus giving false readings. You can use the Hornady virgin case for this but there will be some math and corrections needed to get accurate numbers. Case base to shoulder lengths on a fired case need to be noted so that corrections can be made to the base to shoulder length of the virgin case. This "difference" needs to either be added to or subtracted from the CBTO measurement you get to the lands with the virgin case. Again, works fine but there's math you have to be aware of. Throw a virgin, belted magnum case gauge in the mix and it will not get true readings, you can't. That's why it's best to use a fired, slightly sized case with this method. Here's the method I use now and have found to be the most precise and consistent: Use a fired, very slightly sized case and polish the outside with steel wool. I don't want it sticky in the chamber at all. Seat a bullet a little longer than it needs and lightly push the case into the chamber by finger. It should "stick" because the bullet is in the lands. You'll need a cleaning rod to push it back out. Now, seat your bullet in the die shorter until it will not stick anymore. You want to find the spot where it is not sticking but .001" longer will. When you go to push the cartridge out with the rod, it will come with no resistance. This is a true measurement of no jump nor jam. I can feel a difference in .0005" difference in seating on the cleaning rod when you get to the right spot.

Hey guys, good video, however, Eric uses the bolt drop you mentioned to set 2 thou shoulder bump in a full length sizing die NOT to find jam

Sinclair OAL gauge does not get enough love. Takes a bit of math to calc the base to ogive, but results are consistent and no need for a modified case. Great video though!

A fired case is a true reading of your rifle's headspace (base to datum line on shoulder). If you don't have a drilled/tapped fired case, the Hornady tool with a factory reference case really only gives you a measurement of the distance from the shoulder (datum) to lands, but it DOESN'T give you the true breech-to-lands distance which is the value you're really working with when you chamber a live round. To get around this, you can buy a factory reference case and measure the base-to-datum value, then measure the base-to-datum value of a fired case. Whatever the difference is (the fired case value will be bigger), add that to the value you get from tool. For example, for my 6GT, my reference case is .009 shorter than a fired case, meaning the true headspace of the rifle is .009 longer than the reference case's base-to-datum measurement. So, take the measurement when using the tool, add .009 and that gives you your true breech-to-lands dimension.

TIP: for the Hornady bullet comparator; I just measured 3 different 223 bullets of different weights and manufacturers and found a total of CBTO variance of some .030. All bullets must have identical O'Gives. Then I removed the plastic plunger and filed down the rounded end into a more pointed end and remeasured a 3 bullets again @ 8 each and found the new total variance of the same bullets to be .010. In two of the bullets the CBTO variance was less than 5%. Very accurate now. My conclusion is the bullet bases are not 100% perpendicular to the concentricity of the bullet and the plastic plunger end is too large to get an accurate reading on a small point from the base of the bullets. This was all done in a brand-new JC Custom barrel just purchased and not installed. I wish Hornady would install a smaller metal pointed end on their plunger for a little extra money.

In the words of Erik Cortina "don't over complicate things more then they have to"

My method is the last one shown right down to the sharpie or black soot to mark the projectile. Bullet brand and model gets written down in my note book along with OAL for ease of setting up seating die the next time I use that particular projectile. I use this for all of my rifles and all of my single shot handguns chambered in rifle calibers....very repeatable and easy to do without the need for additional tooling. Will be teaching this to a new shooter next week when he brings his .308 win and loading gear to me for his first time experiencing the joys of handloading good ammunition.

Measure bolt face to muzzle with cleaning rod, mark with post it. Drop desired bullet into lands. Measure distance from muzzle to post it.

Or; you can just drop your chosen projectile into the breach and tap it very gently until it sticks in the lands. Then, take a cleaning rod and insert it into the muzzle end of the barrel until it contacts the tip of the projectile. Once done, mark the rod at the muzzle-line with a bit of tape. Then remove the projectile and allow the rod to continue on down the barrel until it contacts the face of the bolt. Mark the rod again with another bit of tape. The COL is the distance between the two bits of tape.

I use the Hornady gage but I don’t push it in. Buy hand I gently turn the barrel down so it’s straight down then let the rod down easy that way gravity is the only push

Awesome video. I wanted to save some money for projectiles and powder so I took a case and instead of a full resize I just gave it enough to hold on to the projectile. Not too tight, but not enough to pull out. Paint with a sharpie and push it in and lock it down. I ran it multiple times to verify the bullet wasn’t pulling back out as I have had that happen in early stages. But just like you guys said pick a method and stick with it because you can get varying numbers different ways. Biggest thjng is making sure when you bring the dummy round back out, the rifling hasn’t pulled the bullet out. Sharpy helps you see that!

I like Eric cortinas method because it gives you a go no go feel for every other method it seemed to much of a difference in measurements

For those using the Hornady/Stoney Point gauge method it's great if you can drill and tap a spent case from your own gun as the gauge. If all you have is the one supplied by Hornady then just measure the difference in headspace between a spent case from your own gun (primer removed), and their gauge. Account for the difference with the Hornady case measurement.

The method I use is, I will take a fire formed case, clean it with Brasso, clean my chamber and bore wipe it all down real good. I then take my fire formed brass run it up into my resizing die, (Yes....full length resizing...lol) just enough to give some neck tension because it resizes the neck first, just enough to keep the bullet from sticking in the bore, but not to much that I'm jamming the projectile into it. Seat the projectile long in my seating die (does not matter if your lock ring is tight). You're not looking for concentricity you're just looking to seat your bullet long, the bore will take care of that. I do that (measure) 2 or 3 times to make shure that when the bullet is making contact with the lands and I am unchambering my dummy round that the bullet is not being pulled out of the case. Take the OAL measurment, and experiment with jump. Different chambers and platforms like different things. There is no one jump that fits all. It's what your rifle likes to eat. Happy reloading.😁 I least like the method of fully sizing the neck and smashing the bullet into the lands. Eric Cortinas method is probably the most accurate, I could be wrong, but I think my method is a bridge between what is shown here and Eric's.

Fired case. Tap neck to slightly flatten mouth of case. Cover bullet with Sharpie ink. Seat bullet in case by hand (long) so neck holds bullet. Slowly chamber round until bolt closes. Open bolt and remove round. If bullet stuck in bore, tap it out carefully. Flat edge of case neck will have removed Sharpie ink on bullet. Reseat bullet in case up to end of Sharpie scratch. Measure. Repeat a couple of times to ensure consistency. Been doing this for 25 years, until I was given an OAL gauge. Results are the same.

last method is fastest to a result in the .001range of other methods, easy choice due to johny's reloading bench who is slightly different though conceptually close. One of the earliest things I learned was seating depth is a variation with manipulatable & testable features so start somewhere with a goal in mind and test away.

I take a fired case and neck size only. I then use a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut two slots from the case mouth to the shoulder in a straight line with the cartridge and 180 degees from each other. Then deburr the slots. This allows the bullet to be pushed in when chambering. The bullet touches the lands and the tension holds the bullet enough to remove cartridge and check seating depth. Works well and can be used with any bullet over and over again

When using the OAL gauge, try using this with the rifle in a vertical position. What this does by having the muzzle pointing upwards, you can lightly lift the bullet to the contact point and not jam the bullet into the lands. If your bullet is sticking into the lands, you really have no idea how deep that is going.

Bullet in a FL sized case run into the chamber using the bolt. That way the chamber tells me all my answers that are consistent every-time I run a round into the chamber. Makes perfect sense to me in my efforts to keep all the most consistent as possible.

Super interesting video. Thanks sincerely!

I recommend case lube on the bullet for all of these tests, it significantly helps to prevent stuck bullet

I always use cerrosafe and make a casting of the chamber. That will tell you exactly where the lands are. The methods shown here will tell you the c.o.a.l. with a particular bullet. Change the weight or brand of bullet and the c.o.a.l. changes and you have to do this all over again if you change bullet weights or manufacturers. Not every 150 grain bullet has the same dimensions one manufacturer to the next! Casting the chamber is a one time thing! Then you know with ANY bullet weight or brand where the lands are and you can measure freebore by casting too! As well as the dimensions of your chamber so you can check for other things like throat erosion as well!

I also use the 3ed method, but I very lightly tighten up the very end of the neck with my die set so the bullet won't stick in the barrel, I also use a black marker to see the rifling. 👍

You should do a video regarding jamming vs jumping the lands and it’s respect to accuracy repeatability and functionality.

A 4th way, if you don't have Hornady LOL comparator, is to use a flat base bullet, in the appropriate caliber, and a fired case. Partially neck size the case just enough to hold the bullet but lose enough to allow it to be pushed back when it contacts the lands. Insert the bullet nose first into the case and carefully insert into the title's chamber and close the bolt. Carefully open the bolt extracting the cartridge. Don't drop it. Using a dial caliber measure the OAL of the cartridge and this should give you the CBTO. But I like the idea of using locktite to glue the bullet in place. This way you don't have to be so careful handling he cartridge.

Same method I have used for many decades!! Works flawlessly!! Good comment. 👍👍

I've found Erik Cortina's videos on "Chasing the lands is stupid" to be very helpful..

Since erosion is a constant factor, won’t you be constantly chasing the lands?

I was shown to use the OAL gauge and the rod down the barrel together, so you push the case into the chamber, then using both rods "feel" for the lands with as little force as possible. When you have it lock the OAL and remove. Do this 3 times and compare results. Seems to work fine.

Method 3 is what I do, but I lube my neck so it moves easily and doesn't get stuck in the barrel.

There are two other methods one is an RCBS Mic Gauge that you can use to find where the oglive will be and use a comparator to get your bullet to that spot. And another way much like your others you can cut two slits in the neck of the case and have a snug fit on the bullet and it will pretty much do the same as a couple of your other methods. If the tension is right on the bullet it may give you a better reading snug enough that it won't push hard into the rifling and enough tension the bullet won't pull out because of being stuck a little in the riffling. One can make one of these cases from a fireformed case and carefully use a Dremel with a small disk cutter to cut the slits. Of course you will need to clean up any burrs from cutting as well. I usually use a Hornady gauge set up, but honestly it's just a reference point because the inserts are not precise to the riffling. Riffling in barrels varies. We often concern ourselves with too much thinking when making bullets. Case prep and bullet selection are the most important factors. Been there and done that. Super precision do it all!

What wasnt mentioned was no matter what method used you need to do readings of 5-10 bullets for each bullet type then take the average. Some bullets are very consistant but some can varry quite a bit

For cheap people like myself, you can buy steel wire the diameter of the primer hole and a lock collar the same diameter for a couple of bucks at a hardware store. No need to modify the case. I prefer the loctite version because it incorporates the bolt into the solution. Seems to be the most accurate method in my mind. Thanks for the video. Very good info

Sinclair makes a great guage also

Great vid guys, you saved me $80. Appreciated from Canada 🇨🇦.

I have used the method of using a shot cartridge and sliding bullet in chamber. Then use bolt to push cartridge to seat bullet. Remove bolt and measure. On remington riffles, I have found a lot of free bore. Not able to seat bullet out to lands and still fit in magazine. But with that said, my 300 rem mag set to factory length is a true tack driver. At 100 yds, I can literally hit the head of a tack. I have taken several deer at 800+ yd. I've actually watched deer fall in scope when pulled trigger at those distance. I've tried on few savage and it seems their free bore is less. But as far as accuracy, each manufacturer seems to do well.

Been using the OAL gauges and have always done it the exact same way every time so I'm hopefully consistent there. However a bullet specific dummy set up to the lands would be a time saver and is clearly accurate as shown. Might have to dig out the red loktite

I have a sacrificial case for each caliber which I cut petals into the neck. I can easily tension a bullet enough so it will just contact the lands but be held enough to keep it in when extracted.

Erics method with bolt drop is to the touch. You are teaching people about the JAM. There is a difference.

I know this is not as technical as you have it but we would set the bullet in the casing according to the book specs and take a magic marker and blacken out the bullet. We would slowly slide the casing into the chamber. You will get two scratch marks on the bullet as you close. The long scratch on the bullet will be made as it slides into the chamber. The short scratch will be as the bullet comes up to the land and finishes. We would pull the cartridge back out and look for the scratch marks, It would tell us how far up on the land it would go depending what kind of bullet and the shape it was.

Before I knew about the Hornady oal guage I made a tool using a fired case. I drilled thru the primer pocket and silver soldered a small diameter brass tube about 10in long I found at (I think) hobby lobby. Towards the end of the tube away from the brass shell I drilled a hole and silver soldered a small nut. I used a welding rod with a glued on plastic tip as the plunger. For the lock at the rear I used a small screw that I soldered a T handle. With the bolt removed I drop a bullet in the chamber. I insert my tool and push the plunger on the bullet. Then, I lock the rod with the screw. I use a cleaning rod to disengage the bullet from the rifling. I insert the bullet in to my oal guage then measure with a dial caliper. I cut the neck a tad into the shoulder. This way I use 1 set up for 308, 708, and 243. I have another set up for my '06. It's interesting how there is so much variance in manufacturing bullets so I measure at least 10 then average the 0 lash oal measurement. If I was to compete I would measure every bullet and batch them. I just hunt with my loads but love to have the most accurate set up I can get without doing the whole case weighing, neck turning, etc thing. I keep playing with the OAL and powders til I get a clover leaf at 100yds. Great video. The reason I made my tool was that in the 'sharpie the bullet, insert bullet and brass into chamber and lock the bolt' technique, the bullet always got stuck. I figured if it even got stuck a little I would get an erroneous oal measurement.

The "sharpie the whole bullet black" method

Appreciate the data: the Lock-Tite method seems most practical to my use. Deprime the brass first, as pointed out by a couple of comments. Still, thanks.

The Sinclair tool is great also, I use that because you don’t need the custom cases like the Hornady.

I've been using the Cortina method for a while then got told to use an AOL gauge so bought one and found it to inconsistent so went back to the Cortina method as it was just way more consistent.

This is such a great video So well done. The cut away of the chamber is priceless. This is the only channel you can see this very special content. This video is a game changer

I did the Hornady gauge and the black sharpie method and then split the difference for my 28 Nosler.I figured .006 off for the Berger VLDs I'm shooting and I have no problem shooting at any target.Once I got my Kilo 2400 set up I'm shooting out to 1500 no problem.Gone as far as 1870 and made hits.

I would have thought a cautionary note should have been mentioned regarding pressure spikes when seating closer to or IN the lands. The 'in the lands' guys are usually professional target shooters who do extensive load testing to avoid dangerous overpressure !

I have been using the Sinclair COL guage now for 7 years and it gives an exact measurement every time and does not require modified cases or anything like that. I have found it to be the way to go. I am a 1000yd benchrest competition shooter and its my way for both my 6bra light gun and 7saum unlimited gun

A couple of decades ago when I was REALLY into making the best ammo I could, I used Sinclair’s comparator. It’s similar in that it uses the bullet in the chamber, take a measurement. Runs fired case in and take a measurement then subtract the part of the bullet that will be in the neck and measure the over all length. I would prefer to measure off of the olive but their option was full length, bullet seated. I really like that Loctite method for the shooting I do now. Thanks, Jeff

Sorry late to using You tube I was taught (1970) to use a, neck sized fire formed case, light seat of bullet, soot with candle (let cool). Then put five in one by one normal locking of the bolt (first locking lugs should be polished to give even pressure) then measure OAL of the five, and average them. Set the bullet seating depth accordingly. Depending on the quality of the rifle, one of the locking lugs will inevitably seat tighter so should be found and corrected before worrying about the lands effect on accuracy, as it will change the measured value. I liked the idea of using the Locktite though.

Closing the bolt on a sized case will give you "max jam" not touch. Erik Cortina uses max jam minus .020 for starter and backs off from there. A benchrest shooter that jams .015 into the lands would not close the bolt on a sized case and then add .015" to that.

I also used the last method with a sharpie as well as the OAL gauge. I found over the years that the sharpie method is just a good and it is easier.

I saw a method where you place some tape on a cleaning rod, run the rod down the barrel with the bolt closed, mark the tape at the end of barrel.... and then open the bolt and shove a bullet in until the lands and run the rod down until it touches the bullet and mark the tape again at barrel...... and then measure the two marks on the tape...