Good video thanks! We gotta keep our 2012s happy! I tried this once about four years ago just to see if I could do it. (bike was running fine). Backed out of the process due to tightness of work area/ not wanting to break anything- and have not tried it since. Bike has been running flawlessly pushing 27,000 miles so I think I made the right call. BTW, the best running enhancement was to take advantage of Suzuki's ECU recall/ replacement on my 2012 VStrom. Did that with new Iridium plugs in 2013 and its been running great.
Dan Koerner I should do the iridium plugs. I keep taking the cheaper route, but now I'm at 47k miles and could have bought iridiums for money I've spent on regular.
Hello. So if the butterfly’s are NOT in sync according to the gauge needle, how do I know which TB is off and which adjuster screw needs to be turned? Thank you in advance
Thanks for watching. Assuming you know you need to note which gauge is connected to which TB I'd split the difference between them if they're off significantly (bring one down and the other up) or, if close, adjust either.
For those who dont have the gauges, another method is to use some 3/16 clear tubing and mount it on about 4ft piece of 1x4 wood with connectors on the top. Fill it 3/4 with ATF and once you connect to the vacuum fittings on the throttle body you will be able to see the difference in vacuum between the two cylinders. As long as liquid levels are the same you are good.
I'm sorry, maybe i missed it, but i never saw what was involved in the actual adjustment. Nor, any details about the valves you turned to smooth out the jumpy hauge needle, or, frankly anything other than you had out extensions on the vacuum lines(im curious where they actually attach to the throttle bodies), what optimal operating temp is, and what the mechanism is and where its located, that needs adjustment to synch the TBs
Thanks for watching. I had to go rewatch this video because I made it so long ago. I show the TB adjustment screw location beginning at 7:44. I mention in the video that I connected the remote vac lines in a previous video on tappet clearance check. The adjustment valves for the gauges (to stop jumpy needles) are explained at 9:07 - one just needs to fiddle with them. Engine temp isn't too critical - I just don't like to adjust at stone cold because that isn't the state my engine is in when I ride. Just an intuitive choice. It is difficult to show where the vac lines connect to the TBs in a video without tearing the bike further apart but when you do look at your TBs, the nipple with a cap on it is the one.
@@UrbanMonkTVthank you for replying. I do recall both instances referred to in the video, but I guess what I'm looking for is "how" you adjusted. You showed one screw at 7:44. Does that do both or does each cylinder have its own? Turning it clockwise/counter clockwise, does what? As far as the valves you used for the steadying of the needles, I'm looking for details. Where you bought them, what specifically theyre called so I or others could source them etc. I love your videos, btw. I'm just trying to pick your brain some. :). Thank you.
Can I ask what kind of hose did you use to extend the access to the vacuum test points? You also said you used the rubber caps from the TBs on the extensions, did you insert some metal tubing into the extensions to allow the caps to fit? Have you done a TSP adjustment video?
Wayne Howarth Thanks for watching. I just got vacuum line and an assortment of vacuum tees and couplers (PCV I think) from my local auto parts store. Can't remember the ID now, but it's about the same as typical windshield washer fluid hosing - for reference. Hope that helps.
Wayne Howarth I did a TPS video but pulled it down because I had made an error. Didn't want to mislead people. May do again the next time my bike needs it. I ended up installing a PCV and having it custom mapped, so it's running really good now.
Urban Monk TV If a vacuum leak is present somewhere else on the bike would it throw the TBS off? I made a homemade manometer, tested it and seems to hold pressure; however, while performing the TBS I can't get the one side to fill no matter how much I twist the adjustment screw.
Nick Velalis A vacuum leak would throw the sync off. You could search for it by sealing the TBS nipples again, run the bike and spray carb cleaner around the manifolds and TBs. If you hit a leaky spot, it should affect how the engine runs. Would smooth out or possibly surge in RPM. Then you know where to tighten or repair. Not 100%, but a decent method.
Would the bike dying at 3k rpm need the throttle bodies synchronized? I have a 2011 V strom 650 I have been searching around threads and so far haven't been able to find any leads..
@@jrbass62 the needles on the two gauges I was using are calibrated to one another. A person can adjust these and calibrate off a single vacuum source. I don't mean to be defensive and sincerely appreciate your thoughts on the matter. I just don't think these gauges should be vilified outright without some logical discourse.. They can be calibrated and I chose two that were. And your suggestions are certainly valid and accurate options too.
Is what your doing here the same as "secondary throttle plate adjustment " I just had mine all apart and adjusted that screw to set my secondary throttle plates to the same position using depth gauge. Measured from face of T.B. to edge of plate when all the way closed. They were off by about .050
