They stay open until you turn the bike on and after like 30 seconds they slowly close as it reaches normal idle. Also the stva is working fine going by sound. When they close after you have it running blip the throttle and they should mirror the primary valves(the butterfly’s bellow the ones you are touching)
I got the same year it’s supposed to sound like a fuel pump priming. They should open, close, then open again. My bike wont start if it does what yours did. So i got turn it on and off multiple times depending. Once it sounds like a full prime my bike will start
thats how its supposed to work. The secondary butterflies open with kill switch turned on. Once the bike is running up to temp they'll go down. Do you have an error code?
@@kyleaganos5503 the tip over sensor should be located under your rear tail fairings under the taillights(black little box) connected to your taillights.
Put the tank on and connect it all only put the rear most bolt on and stick something under to hold the tank up so you can still see inside and fire her up
Get an manual with the specs for the throttle sensors I’d check to make sure the throttle grip is moving and has the right play Make sure the throttle position sensors are showing the right voltage/resistance I don’t know about gsxr but Yamaha have a diagnostic mode so you can see the throttle expected opening vs actual opening
Thank you. The issue is that it blips/cuts power at high rpm, around 12k. Like hitting a rev limiter. Runs fine otherwise, maybe too much air, which would make sense if they stay wide open all the time. But if that’s the case, why the blip at high rpm?.. I have a manual and will try to troubleshoot that way. Mechanic wants me to replace TPS sensors and STVA.
Could be another issue There’s obviously a problem with the throttles remaining open, so you would at least tackle that first I wouldn’t just throw parts at it, it’s normally a min or so to get resistance values or voltage changes, just make sure they’re out of spec first Even if you don’t know the values, you should clearly see a difference when twisting the throttle Generally off throttle is .1volt and full throttle is 5volt (obviously could be more or less but at least gives you an idea) I would first test the APS, then TPS then the Secondary TPS (you should be able to unplug this to bypass it if I remember correctly) And if you want to check condition of the motor, grab a pack of little alligator jumpers, check to see what is the signal positive and ground on the motor, just jump the ground to ground and then pin it into the incoming power with 5v to the open loop, should open all the way, then power the close loop and should close all the way
@@jaydenriley2875 did you end up figuring anything out with this? I have an 07 750 and it sounds like it’s doing something similar. I have normal power till about 3/4 throttle, but wide open it falls on its face.
@@kadeisawsome I took the TB off (still is) to remove the STVA and STPS (both are connected to the side of the TB). I sent the parts to "the geek" (eBay) for STVA repair. He looked at it said it is totally fine, also checked the sensor for me and said that was good too. only thing I think it could be now is either the TPS, fuel pump, and/or the ECU. I had the mechanic test the fuel pump before any of this and he said it was good. The geek recommended I get it tested again for longer than the manual suggests. Weird thing is when I went to get it looked at the mechanic said the TPS was out of adjustment. He then adjusted it and the bike now cuts power at 12k RPM vs. 6-7k RPM. A big improvement. Might just replace the sensor while the TB is off - it's a relatively cheap component. if no dice there, then I'll get the fuel pump tested again, then maybe try another ECU. Pretty frustrating. Kinda pissed the mechanic just gave me a list of pats to replace vs. testing them. It was recommended that I just unplug the sensor when the butterfly valves are open, then see if it still does it. Will throw an FI, but at least it will rule out the sensor. This has become a project for spring 2023 (in Canada).
@@chasmatteo if you have then your connections are wrong on your throttle body and fuel pump. Switch the connections and see if that works. It has happened to me before.
I hope you can fix your bike, my bike it's 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 750 I let seat for over 13 years with out running now I have a problem start running, I did clean the injectors did spark plugs I changed 2 fuel pump and still don't start cold, I have to use B12 to start it running
yikes. ya I don't think that's going to happen here. It's ripped apart in my garage right now. Had the STVA and secondary TPS sent off to get checked - they came back fine. I did order a new primary TPS though. Going to put everything back together in a couple weeks and see what happens. take it to the shop and spend the big bucks if it comes to it.
Do you have a check engine code? C28 or C29? It’s your STVA. But in your case I think it’s normal to start closed and when your bike reaches optimal temp it will open. Or maybe I have it backwards. But I think it’s normal.
Hey guys I jump started my 08 750 to a bus last month, desperately trying to get it to run after having it sit in the garage … Long story short I ended up replacing the dead battery and it still engine wouldn’t turn , bought a new relay & thee engine still wont turn :( Any suggestions or ideas to what else may be the issue
A lot of times when you buy a new battery they require you to charge them first before just putting them in the bike. This happened to me before is why I suggest you try that or put some jumper cables on while hooked up on the bike and try to start it than.
same issue on my 05 gxsr6, gradually got decrease in power on my bike, gotten to the point of chugging when the motor is under load. new spark plugs, new fuel filter, dipped the tank, now won’t even start. turned a couple times, spark and compression is there thinking it’s something gastric. just ordered two new tps. anyone have anything?
