This quick fix solves the yaw jitter for a while, it may come back again, as I and others have experienced. I don't use WD40, because this keeps it clean and I don't know what the long term effects of WD40 can have.
Wow, thank you for this . I have been fighting with this problem for over a year now, and I finally decided to open it up to see what makes it tick. I had my stick almost completely disassembled, and I thought to myself ok well I should look this up on RU-vid . And I am glad I did. That was such an easy fix! I'm glad I didn't take it completely apart, but it was about 80% disassembled 🙁 Thank you for saving me the replacement and the complete disassemble 👍
I sprayed a touch of 3-in-1 silicone lubricant into the top of the potentiometer, since it's rated not to damage electronics or plastics, rather than WD40 or even alcohol. Worked like a charm. Taping the joystick parts together was a great tip, though. Thanks!
THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCHH!!!!! I had this problem for months and I cant use it, it hurts especially when it is my birthday present so, thank you soo much, been waiting for so long.
Absolutely fantastic tutorial to cure the jitters on the twist axis! I'm so grateful for this - it's been causing me so much grief! The attention to detail is especially good!
Thank you so much for the tip. My Z Yaw axis has been jittering for months and I had to create a huge deadzone. My method was similar to yours but I took the joystick apart, lifted the potentiometer out, cleaned it with a little IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol) and then twisted it from min to max a few times. So far, so good!
Thank you so much! This saved me from buying a new setup. Before taking the stick apart, I tried simply twisting back and forth for the full range, firmly, but not dangerously so, and that has fixed my yaw drift/jitter/twitch for a while now. Didn't even have to take it apart! I think you're right that using the full range of motion either removes the interfering material or allows a self-lubing/cleaning type thing to occur for the pot.
basically all I play is Dcs, and this tutorial helped me more than you can know, I couldn't find any to fix this and not only did you show how to fix it but for my specific controller as well. I owe you a couple at least.
came off as a little overdramatic but when your entire life is behind a screen, more specifically behind a virtual cockpit it matters more than most can understand no matter how sad that is.
Worked for me too - used a bit of isopropyl alcohol and struggled to get it back together - they had glued thw wiring for the pot to the stick so there wasn't the same play you had with the cabling - but itwent back and works perfectly! Thanks so much for the clarity of your video
Thank you Alain, you have saved my old T-Flight X! However, I found easier to fix the potenciometer by pulling it up. You can move it without taking care of the fragile wiring it has. When puting it back in its place, the potenciometer has an specific position, so you'll never get wrong.
you're welcome... although credit should be given to the Elite Dangerous Forum: forums.frontier.co.uk/threads/thrustmaster-t-flight-hotas-one-anyone-else-having-yaw-problems.478812/page-3
I had the same problem and fixed it by ripping the three wires out of the motherboard, thereby permanently disabling the twist axis. Zero jittering now. I have the rudder pedals so I don’t need the twist axis anyway.
On literally the 30th day of ownership (i.e., last day for returns), the twist yaw function on my T.Flight Hotas 4 went haywire. It didn't seem like mere drift; it was giving random values when twisting and idle. Regardless, I cracked it open and tried this fix, and... I somehow deactivated the twist function. Now, instead of registering random values, it stays permanently neutral, which is fine by me. I never really used the twist yaw (I'd rather use the rocker or rudder pedals for yaw), so as long as it wasn't bugging out, I'll chalk it up as a win. Thanks!
Can you still twist it? There is a screw to lock the z-twist in the middle. Maybe you screwed that when you put it together.. it is on the right side of the joystick, above the front silver screw (front means the screw away from you when holding the joystick normally). share.icloud.com/photos/061GpJ8OFhzVfkKAgHgaFKV0Q
Yeah, I can still twist it; it's just that nothing registers. I may have snapped a wire or something while fiddling around, entirely my own fault. In any case, I didn't use the twist normally, so no big loss (in fact, this "fixed" my problem in that the yaw isn't jumping all over the place on its own). Thanks for the advice!@@Alain_Escher
Cool. How do you fix the thrust and thrust torrents? I opened it up but no wires cut or nothing is broken. But it is not being recognized in testing. Everything else works, but no thrust.
Hi, what do you mean by "torrents"?. Try installing the Thrustmaster Tool and checking if it is recognising the axes and buttons correctly. Check here: support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-flight-hotas-one-en/
if you add some tape to just above where the "spring" like part is it takes the lose feel from the yaw and adds more support to the stick, also its one of the fixes for this issue!
Thanks for the tip, will try it next time I have to open it up again. I actually now have the matching pedals, so have disabled the yaw on the stick. (There is a locking screw to lock it in the center position).
Hi mate, tried this fix and it worked for a while. Now I can't seem to turn rudder left at all and it still jitters in the control panel when I touch the stick. Does it sound like I need a new one? Cheers!
hmm, maybe the potentiometer has turned by itself in its mount, I suggest taking it apart again and checking it is seated correctly, and at the same time check what the control panel tells you. Good luck!
Thank you. I'll try this fix. I did see a similar fix where the guy actually removed the potentiometer from it's position and using rubbing alcohol, or as we call it in Australia, Metholated Spirits, he poured a small amount on top and twisted it full motion and then did the same to the underneath. He indicated that this would clean the accumulated dust inside the potentiometer. My issue with fix is it can take a while for Metho to dry in internal housings etc. I know because I used it to clean the usb input on my galaxy s9 and the phone refused to accept electrical input until it was dry and it took a surprisingly long time. It appears that WD40 is an excellent for use in cleaning these parts so I'll try that also should this fix alone not solve the issue.
Yup this worked for me, pulled out the sensor and blew in it a little, gently twisted it to max left and right and what da you know, it works fine again.
We don't have any hard facts, but it seems that hard twists helps stop the jitters.. and if not the procedure in the video has helped a lot of people..
Yes! There is a screw at the bottom of the stick, turn it about half a turn, it will click into place and lock the twist axis. The screw needs a straight screwdriver, it is black and hard to see. Look on the right side of the stick, above the front chrome screw.
When I did this it appears something happened to the Yaw spring and the Z-axis no longer springs back to the middle. However, I’m almost positive I lined it up correctly. Any ideas?
The spring goes into a specific place, please check again. If I remember, it doesn't go in the middle, but both sides of the middle...check the video about 4:03
Do you know how to fix the joystick always pitching down? Mine constantly pitches down no matter what I do, and I can't use it. For example l'll pull on the stick, and the plane will pitch down. I push the stick and it will pitch down. It isn't the game either, because it does the same thing with other games.
Hi, sorry, I don't know what that could be. You can try to install the Thrustmaster Tool and check out how the axes are reacting. Another option is to connect your joystick to a friend's PC and check if there is a USB problem with your PC, like that you can isolate the problem further. Write back here if you don't find a solution or need more help.
Have you tried installing the Thrustmast Control Panel? Check your firmware is up to date. To be honest, it sounds like a defect if it is happening on two different machines. Check out the support site: support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-flight-hotas-one-en/ (For the One for example).
Hi Randy, I don't know.. the potentiometer for the roll axis is in the base, but perhaps the same "treatment" will fix your roll drift. (What exactly do you mean with drift?)
@Alain_Escher the aircraft will continue to try and roll right even when the stick is not being "rolled". Flying straight and narrow isn't possible alot of the time due to the aircraft constantly trying to roll right
@@randymitchell6373 Ah, so not jittering left and right, but always right.. sometimes if the joystick isn't centered when the game starts it will have that bias to one side.. what sim are you using?
@Alain_Escher on msfs on xbox series x using the hotas. Yeah it's predominantly right sided.. very seldom to the left but has happened before. I've even turned off turbulence to see if that was the major player but no, constantly fighting the stick trying to keep it level
@@randymitchell6373 I don't know MSFS well enough, if you can make it display your control inputs you could see if the input is there always or only sporadically.. maybe you can increase the deadzone in the middle.
I didn't use any chemistry, only mechanical, rotating the potentiometer to both stops. I was cautious in case any fluid changes the properties (ohms) of the potentiometer.
@@Alain_Escher I have been reading some posts by people who service appliances with potentiometers and they use WD40 religiously and they haven't reported any side effects from it. I'm still going to try your fix first as if it is fixable without introducing any chemical fluids I can see the obvious benefit there. Fluid ingress, even if not corrosive, can have potential side effects with electrical signals I suppose. Anyway, many thanks for your excellent video and advice.
I can fix my jitter by just unplugging and discharging excess electrical charge by 8 point moves then 8 point twists at the 8 points. Reconnect and it is gone, well until the excess charge builds up again after 5 or 6 hours. Its the excess charge causing the problem.
