I buy almost everything in 2mm. Being in Europe, it's the easiest way to "standardize" my processes. The size is also versatile for multiple applications. Just recently I started with 1.2mm for thinner steel and 1mm for stainless. ✌🏻
This is a direct to the point very informative video. I am just about to try my first ever steel Tig, the information provided hear is answering exactly the questions I had to get set up correctly.
Quick note. If welding cast aluminum, stick with the slightly softer 4043 filler. This allows for more elongation and better prevents cracking. Also 5356 has a higher tendency to deposit porosity in the weld, it prefers cleaner metal than 4043.
I think a shop tour video would be nice, and maybe kind of explain what kind of side jobs you do. I’m going to welding school soon and want to start a shop at my house but want to know what I’ll need and how much space I’ll need
I'm working through your TIG welding course right now and practicing. All of the welding supplies in my area only carry ER70S-2 in 1/8 or 3/32 size. When I asked for 1/16 or .04 they look at me like I'm from Mars, lol. I've been trying with 1/8 so far and it seems really too big practicing on 1/8 coupons... I got some 3/32 today and I'm going to give that a go and see if it's a bit more manageable for me. I did order some 1/16 online and I'm looking forward to trying that out as well. But I figured I really may as well learn with what's going to be readily available anyway
Where was this a month ago?! I got pretty close, but went with 4043, 309l instead. 4043 being able to do cast, possibly wets out better and 309l for the dissimilar/unknown metals, if that's correct. I did get most of the rods in 3/32 tho. It sounds like I could have gone size smaller but most will just be beads on plate to learn tig for now. Would like to mention, for those looking to get into it too, that it sounds like 3/32" laYZr (chartreuse) tungsten is a popular all around do everything tungsten. Hopefully have the 220 plug wired up next week and I'll be able to find out for myself. Thanks for all the videos, sure getting excited
I used to work in the chrome department at Harley, back when they did their own plating. We had to load the plater baskets with pure nickel ingots (99+% pure) every Friday after 1st shift was done and it would take about 2 tons of nickel. The ingots are about the diameter of a quarter and come in metal barrels (about 12"x30") which we craned onto the deck surrounding the plating machine. We then emptied the barrels into buckets, from there we would fill basically a plastic bleach bottle with the bottom removed and dumped that into the titanium baskets which hung in the nickel solution, refilling the bleach bottle several time for each basket. The nickel tank was pumped to storage tanks for this refill operation. Many ingots would get spilled while we did this and we used large magnets with an on/off switch attached to a handle to pick them up. Pure nickel is magnetic.
Very cool! In iron based alloys, nickel is an austenite stabilizer, causing the iron atoms to arrange in a face centered cubic crystal structure which is non-magnetic.
@@GiovanniGiorgo Thanks. I would have expected those 2=magnetic stainless. I also thought chrome was the most significant non iron ingredient in stainless.
Great videos, but they would be better with longer pauses between the cuts. At the moment, it's a bit like a word assault. One after the other. Relentless.
Very true, if you attempt to use typical oxy-acetylene brazing rod with Tig..... it'll be a popping/fuming mess; because of the zinc. Silicon bronze for TIG (ERCuSi-A) doesn't have zinc.
I’ve never used it on stainless, but I think it would still oxidize to some extent without a back purge. Whether that matters or not depends on the requirements of the application.
For thin stainless (say thinner than 16 ga or 1/16" or 0.063") I've found it's difficult to keep the heat low enough to avoid penetration (and sugaring) while still getting the area hot enough for proper brazing. It can sometimes be done if you tune the settings and can be easier with pulsing, but some sort of backing or something like Solar Flux can be useful if you're wanting to avoid back purging. For thicker material you have more wiggle room, probably because stainless conducts heat so much slower than mild steel. Some of this will depend on your strength needs, however, since the bigger beads required to match the strength of the base metal typically mean higher heat input-and the danger of sugaring or granulation returns.
