Great video Paul, love your work. I used to get told (shouted) during my apprenticeship "stop throttling the hammer, you will do yourself an injury" or something with more expletives. It is true though the mass of the hammer and it's inertia is the key. Not putting all your effort into each blow👍
I was taught to ream (machine reamers) to run 1/2 the spreed and twice the feed. I tested that a lot, and learned that if I needed a tighter pin fit increasing the feed even more removed less material. Decreasing feed to drilling speed increased the diameter to sliding fits.Talking tenths of an inch, maybe .001 on .250 hole. Light press fits to sliding fits with the same reamer. Thanks for you content, I learn a lot every video. Press forming the end caps was priceless!
Thanks Ron. Yes I'm sure that reaming and drilling have a bit in common. Drilling faster or slower and changing the feed can change the size of the hole too. I have learned from experience :)
I am looking forward to the Christmas break so I can binge watch all of your episodes. Love the content & relaxed nature. I am glad to have caught you in your early phase of RU-vid, and sincerely hope when you have got a Trillion subs you remain as personable & engaging. I have a feeling you will. Thank you!
Paul. I absolutely love the care you take. Using a hand file to smooth things out. Using feel. Never ever thinking "I'll use the heavy artillery for this". I envy your Skills every episode.
Greatings from Ireland Paul and Mitch love your videos great tips and great workmanship on all aspects of your projects, hope ye keep making the videos i look forward to sat eves to see what work ye were at all week. Keep up the great work.
A hammer is a remarkably versatile tool. By shortening the effective length of the shaft a hefty claw hammer can be delicate enough to seat teeny tiny veneer pins. But then, Professor Brady works to 2/10 of a thou by hand & eye. As a woodworker, I worked to 12 and a half thou. That makes me the animal, I guess. Thankyou, Paul. Much learned and much enjoyed, as ever.
My bender has a $100K CNC tube bender. Yes, I could get a pipe bender, but it would never make a bend as nice as his. Everyone knows I'm fussy, so my present situation actually is the best for me right now. Thanks for watching.
Every Sunday morning I watch your video and it sends me right to the workshop afterwards .. is there a contest for spotting the "safety last" feature in every video ? my dad always told me no sandpaper loops on the lathe if I want to keep my fingers ....
Thanks for watching our videos. Do you mean "safetythird"? I am always very careful with my loops of emery in the lathe. Fingers never too close to what's spinning, and always ready to let go at a moments notice..
To ream the swing arm bearings without a guide do it in your lathe, put the hand reamer (ideally a tapered reamer) in a 3 jaw chuck and centre the swing arm between the tapered reamer and a centre in the tailstock so that the bearings are perfectly aligned with each other, then on a very slow speed and with plenty of cutting fluid push the swing arm forward by advancing the tail stock centre until one bearing is reamed then turn the swing arm round and do the other end in the same manner. I've done numerous swing arms and suspension uprights like this and it works perfectly
@@twowheels90 It's actually the same technique that Paul was using with his extension mandrel but greatly simplified and made better and more accurate by doing away with possible distorted parts
That's the way I do it too but I put a bush in one side only and use the bare hole in the tail centre, then fit second bush and repeat. To my mind there is less chance of the arm hole being round than a hammered in bush but in reality it probably makes no difference. When I worked in a classic triumph bike shop we had the genuine triumph reamer but it was useless and must have been designed by a babboon.
A lot of detail thanks. I have a few bike projects myself one being a cub trials I am building from parts. Another is my Z1300 custom that's ones a bit like your Vincent I have been working on it for 35 years and always hope to have it ready for next summer.
I once used an adjustable reamer to remove an aluminium seatpost from a steel frame. The previous owner (and bike mechanic) had already had a go at it using brute force, and being a lightweight Thomson seatpost, the top shattered into several pieces. I can't recommend this method, but it does make you buff after the first 6 hours...
With longer slope down you avoid those craters at the ends when TIG welding and don't stop the torch but keep moving it slowly as well. If you let a large puddle cool quickly it shrinks and makes a crater or even a small hole all the way through which can cause leaks. Oh, I'm not just gonna pick on the small stuff like that. You're doing a great job and make really nice parts.
That’s going to look nice. Another enjoyable trip from Blondihacks’ workshop to yours, and you were doing somewhat similar jobs today, tubes and ends on tubes! A Canadian Duo of sorts, or maybe it’s a Trio with Mitch in there too. Les in UK
Hi paul another great video a little advies on your tig welding if you increase the slopout on your set you don't get that small crator at the finish of the weld.
The reasons for not running reamers very fast are primarily to maintain size integrity by avoiding the reamer getting hot and expanding, and not allowing debris to build up inside the hole being reamed. This is why we always flooded the job with extra coolant when reaming, and ran at about 450 whilst feeding in very slowly. You can run higher spindle speeds, and that allows you to feed the reamer in and out more quickly, but it’s about the finish of the final bore as well as the size. I was truly spoiled in my training. The guy who taught tool fitting at the training school was Harry Kite, a man past retirement age. His first job was trimming the flashing off the Silver Ladies with Swiss files! When he picked up the piece of metal I’d just cut off the drill gauge I was making as the first tool fitting exercise, he told me: “You can learn a lot about how a man works - from his scrap”!! He wanted to know how many times I’d corrected my sawing. Lads around me were zigzagging all over the place and breaking saw blades - despite being told how to correctly tighten the blades and not to press on. Some were racing each other. That wasn’t the happiest time of my life, but looking back now, I realise it was a time of learning what I was naturally good at, and being recognised as such by guys with decades of experience. It’s mind boggling to think that Harry Kite would have joined Rolls Royce at 14 in maybe 1923! Most of the lads just laughed at him, a diminutive white haired old chap in a white overall, telling stories of Silver Ghosts - just the chassis (no bodywork) being test driven up and down Nightingale Road. Hope you’re having a great weekend mate.
Good stories! I wasn't always happy working at Cylinder Grinders, but in hindsight I learned a lots of the basics about fit and finish, and still use those lessons today. Thanks for your comments.
How do we hold this. Love it you work it out every Time Paul :) your pressings worked out spot on Mate. Little bit of time to make up the Dies, But came up Great ! Dave from Australia
I am really enjoying your videos. Thank you. If you make more endcaps, if you had a washer of the right size, it could go through the hole in the center the endcap on the bolt shank, without getting your forming die back into play. If the part were only aluminum, it could be gently hammered/impacted over even a hardwood form, though that stainless took quite a beating before yielding to your hammer. Looking at the tiny little curl of metal left from the lathe, reminds me of the times the my hand has bled. Aircraft Spruce has nice T-dollies and metal-forming tools, that you could replicate. Nice to see you wear hearing protection. I have 2 friends who are quite hard of hearing. The problem is: we as a species, aren't used to speaking loudly to someone we care about--without yelling at them.
BrendaEM, thanks for liking our videos. Yes, as soon as I get to my shop in go the earplugs. It's been a habit for a very long time now. And I still have my hearing :)
Paul I always enjoy your content on the die forming a lot of stainless steel is pressed with the thin film of PVC still on the sheet it acts as a lubricant see if it helps also sheet would form better if its the same shape as the die form
I absolutely loved the reamer alignment method, wish I thought about that a couple weeks ago when we had to do a bunch of similar reaming. As a fabricator/Tig welder in the stainless industry I was little disappointed on the lack of purging gas on in the inside.
Yes I do know that purging is good for s/s welds, I'm just not setup with the extra argon tank and regulator. I can probably count the number of times I weld s/s in a year on one hand. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@paulbrodie The other option would be to use some aluminum on the inside to block atmosphere from getting to the weld but since ss shrinks and warps so much that wouldnt have been a good option. Keep up the amazing work your fabrication skills are top notch and I look forward to each and every video.
@@paulbrodie you can get a "Y" splitter valve from your local welding supply store. That a a piece of hose, you can back purge with under $20 invested. Works great for the occasional use
Another inexpensive option for oxygen exclusion on the back of stainless welding is Solar Flux II. It melts and clings to the back side of the weld, forming a barrier. It leaves a glassy residue, but it comes off with a wire brush, if you care to. The interior of an exhaust certainly doesn't need cleanup. It comes as a powder in a tin, and you mix it with denatured alcohol or acetone until it's the texture of heavy cream. Then it's painted onto the back of the welds with a narrow paint brush. Works *great* and one tin will last years.
German beverage keg makers learned they could use a 10% solution of Citric acid to passivate stainless steel after welding. works just as good as the Nitric Acid they used to use.
@@paulbrodie 👍I have an old magazine with a Metallica road test. They reported that the Metralla was like a Pursang with lights & road tires. Oh how I would love to ride one on the back roads in my area of New England. Love the muffler fabrication!
That was a real neat manufacturing process to make a piloted reamer, never seen it done like that before with an adjustable reamer (only solid-fixed size and they had pilot machined on end) Are you making silencer Burgess pattern? It would be in keeping with a modified Triumph. Even after years of doing stuff like this I'm still learning things!
I would have to lookup Burgess pattern. My memory is vague, maybe from the 40's or 50's? Mine will have both muffler ends identical, straight through flow with fiberglas packing.
I notice that your speeds are higher than recommended sometimes. The reason to slow the RPM when using a reamer is to prolong the life of the tool and avoid chatter. It is recommended to run it 1/3 the recommended speed of drilling of the same diameter. The main reason is the cost of the tool. It is a easy job to sharpen a drill, but you need more expensive tools and equipment to sharpen a reamer. If you check speeds and feeds charts in a Machinery Handbook. It is based on type of tool, tool material type and material being machined. I could go on, most of the time you are machining a short, small or short part that doesn't allow the tool or the material to get too hot. I enjoy the videos.
I remember looking up a reamer speed years ago, and seeing they recommended 1500 rpm or more. That's when I realized how slow I had been running mine. Thanks for watching.
This may be news to you but you DON'T ream oilite bushes. These bushes are scintered and it's the pores in them that makes them "self-lubricating". If you ream them you cause the surface pores to smear over, which ruins the point of their existance, they need to be turned with a single point, sharp, tool.
I did my online research, and you can ream as long as the reamer is very sharp. A dull reamer will close the pores for sure. I aim happy with the result.
At my cold ass shop atm will wait to watch when I get home from work. Oh anyone got a green or any other color Brodie Catalyst frame from early 90's let me know.
@@simonfreer9076 I actually wanted the Blue/Purpelish Sovereign frame that they had at the same shop but it was liek $1100 and the bike shop let me have the Catalyst for $750 so went with that one.
When you heard you had to run a reamer slowly, it could have had something to do with all their yelling. "If you're reaming too fast you could be going backwards... don't do it", something I overheard but then I thought, reaming doesn't need stuff and he was clearly reaming his apprentice.
Another impressive build but I still want to build an electric one..... I've seen a few people empty out old engines and put the electric motor inside so they can use the gear box and stuff from the engine, I could see that being something you would like.
@@paulbrodie - Batteries tend to be the bane of all electric builders in the beginning, just like it was for me... When I started collecting batteries to build a pack, I kept getting shocked and it didn't last long before I put the old SLA batteries back in and started shopping for a battery. 😂
Great job on the forms for the stainless endcaps Mr. Paul! Have you ever tried roll forming on your lathe before? I've seen people do that to make bowl shapes and it seems relatively straight forward. I was thinking it may be easier than using the press for more complex shapes
Thank you Po. I think you are talking about metal spinning.. It's probably easier to spin shapes using a soft metal like copper or aluminum. I think stainless would be much harder. No, I have not tried it.
Hi Paul, why not flame bend the downtube in one piece? Don't you think that should work, when filled with sand? It would safe you the money for bending as well ;-) Keep up the good work!
I was told the secret to flame bending is to cap one end, then make a "pressure plug attachment" to go on the other end. I just made up that wording...Basically, you fill and pack the tube with sand, then the attachment has a movable insert on some redi-rod that allows you to compress the sand as it is heated and the tube bends. Sounds like magic, right? I tried it. It was very hard to bend the tube evenly. Almost impossible. Way too easy to get a flat spot. I take my hat off to anyone who can do that well.
I have had the same experience as Paul. Bending thin wall tube is NOT easy and is best left to the pros with the right equipment, namely a proper mandrel bender.
when your welding things like the cap on , if you take a rod the same size that your using , and fold it in half ish , to make a V you can set that ontop of the cylinder then set the cap on and the gap you have will be eaqual and perfect to weld and get really great penetration and reduce the heat needed to get decent weld so you can smooth it off and still have weld remaining , it will cut down on the sugaring on the inside that way ,,, give it a go , you may like it.
@@chrisstephens6673 Yes, a regular tap handle could have worked as well. I was making this to match my other reamers, most of which are used to ream bicycle seat tubes, where the reamer goes inside the tube quite a bit and a regular tap handle would get in the way...
Looks like your handle extension was going to cover the dimensional range markings on the reamer. Are you going to re-stamp for future reference, or do you just have a good memory?
I never read those dimensional markings on my reamers. If the reamer fits the bore, that's the right size. We won't discuss my memory right now... But, thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Never had any doubt, just sharing a thought that could potentially go anywhere in the world. I did have someone in mind when the thought popped up. A short section was added in the taper that's parallel but a slightly loose fit in the bushing to act as a warning. The oddball bushing face slipped through quality control on a stock swingarm. Ironically, a reamer would have allowed that to happen. The bushing was held back by welding splatter or bleed through but only enough to distort it in one section which a reamer then removed.
