I skim coat the ceiling and spread thinset on the back of the tile with either 1/2 x 1/2 or 3/8 x 1/4 inch trowel depending on the size of the tile and have never had a tile fall and its way easier than troweling onto a ceiling. Also i do my ceiling tile first and cut my top row on the walls to the ceiling which again i find to be easier and look better
@@ChristIsLord229 An entire 26 story building I worked in, was done walls 1st then floors, site super insisted on it, looked like shit with the grout line visible on the floor edge. Thank you for posting.
We did marble on a steam shower ceiling a few years ago. We screwed 2X4’s around the perimeter walls about 3” below the ceiling, we then cut 2X4’s to lay flat across the stringers, set a couple large pieces of marble and supported them with the boards along with cedar shims to keep everything level. Each day we would do one or two pieces then work on other parts of the project until we completes the ceiling. Never had and issues with loose or falling stone.
One of my first tile jobs I was learning from, this builder I was working for was installing a steam shower ceiling, and used spin doctors clip system. The very last tile he was installing was a center cut with a light hole. When he put it up, literally all of the ceiling tiles fell, it was like something out of a loony toons episode. Stood their holding the one tile while the rest fell and cracked the special order shower pan. Good times lmao
I took some plastic cap nails (tar paper nails) and replaced the nails with 2" drywall screws. The plastic washer was ideal for overlapping the tile you are working on and the adjacent tile and made the ceiling very secure. The next day, back the screws out and you're done.
I've done a skim coat on the ceiling while combing mortar on the back of the tile, and combed a handful of 2-3" circles. Push the tile tight against the ceiling burping out the air inside the circles, and creates a kind of suction cup effect. Have done this with regular old versabond, haven't had one fall yet.
He got off just about as lucky as one gets when hit on the face with a falling tile. Hope he's not to messed up. Gotta make that thin set stiff and use every ounce of strength you can muster to get a good bond.
I made a 2x4 “T” pole that we would wedge to hold the 2’x4’ tiles on the ceiling while it was setting up. I had one fall after I had just left the shower, got lucky. The “T” setup worked perfectly for the rest of the ceiling.
I used Mapie Utraflex LFT in white. Workers perfectly. I find it better to key in the ceiling that way when you trowel out the thinset it tends to stick better to the ceiling and not fall off. Also back butter the tile and you will be golden. Did a house now with 3 showers 10 feet tall. All ceilings tiled. Never had a single tile fall off. Honestly felt like an old school pro.
I second Mapei Ultraflex LFT. I just tiled a full 45 sf bathroom ceiling with it and not one tile fell and it was my first tile job. I used leveling clips (LevTec) and that helped a ton too keep it in place and level.
I had to install 2 foot by 4 foot tiles on a ceiling. I had the walls set except the last row. I had 2x4 sitting on top of the wall tiles like a bridge. I used little chunks of 2x4 to go from 2x4 “bridge” to the tile. Worked out well. I have set many ceilings without issues, just did not fully trust such heavy tiles being held up by the thin set while it cured! Nice video, keep up the good work!
I used the same mortar. Worked fabulous yesterday!!! Got my ceiling done and part of the flooring. Need to mix more to finish floor. It’s great how it was like a suction cup when you put tiles up 👍👍
Have to say, I laid tile for 5+ years working through college and Grad school and thought I had learned a lot but I learn something new from each of your videos. I don’t do nearly as much as I used to (just friends and family for fun now and yes, I find it relaxing) but whenever I have a question, like what thinnest to use on a ceiling, I come to you. BIG thank you.
Skim ceiling and half inch notch back of tile, 4xlt. With the front of the trowel, make two circles to act as suction cups for 12x24s. Works great for me.
After watching this video, I also used the All-Set and it worked like a dream for the ceiling and everything else. My new favorite Thin-set for everything. I got it on some cardboard and when I tried to peal it off it took the top layer of paper with it. this stuff sticks to almost everything. We also tried mixing it with some concrete pigment to see if it would retain its adhesive properties and it stuck just as well.
I just did a ceiling in 8x20 10mm marble using MultiMax Lite, mixed pretty stiff. Skim coated the ceiling, and had 1/2 notch applied to back of the marble very well keyed in. Pried off 2 tiles to check for coverage - near 100%. It took quite a bit of force to get those pieces to come off for the check. One piece did fall off - no injury - but it was a piece that I set using lighter pressure as it would have laid in too deep and would have had lippage so I just set it using less pressure. It fell off after about 10 min hanging there. MML thinset is EXCELLENT stuff in my view and very good for ceiling work. You just have to set it using plenty of pressure, as done here in this video. This makes the thinset application more critical, because when setting with lots of pressure you will be getting 100% coverage and once its there, its very hard to adjust the overall depth of the tile, esp with the mud being a bit stiff. Also very important the ceiling substrate is flat esp when setting large format tile.
I like this guys content. He shows the minor issues we run into such as to much mud under a tile, it’s not all glitz and glamour. Good stuff, new subscriber here.
I would recommend apply the ceiling tiles, especially the corner ceiling tiles first before finishing the last top side wall tiles so that the corner ceiling tiles rest on top of the final top side wall tiles. Obviously make sure the final top side wall tiles fit nice & tight.
I did my 4x3 shower ceiling in (mostly) 3x6 inch subway tiles in natural stone. I adhered them to the backer board (1/2 inch DensShield) using, not thinset, but rather a waterproof/marine adhesive, plus a bead of silicone around the outside edge that faces the ceiling (for suction and moisture barrier). That held them on nicely, with no drops. My reasons for not using thinset are: weight, and that the ceiling is likely to only get some condensation, not direct water spray. But worst case, the marine adhesive would hold even if some small amount of moisture gets through the stone tile. This was put up 3 years ago, and no issues at all.
When I did a ceiling I put some 2×4s horizontal and extention poles to hold just in case. I took my time but I'm still nervous about tiles on a ceiling.
I have done this exact thing before for 12x24 marble on a ceiling. Worth the extra time for peace of mind I wasn't gonna get knocked out by a falling piece of marble.
I have found that it's better for the mortar to have a bit more water to create a suction effect. Only ever had one fall when the mortar was too stiff. I will blue tape each piece to the next as I go to hold my spacing and don't untape until the next day. Always screw the substrate every 4"-6" as there is a lot of weight hanging up there. Also, don't try and pry an edge down if you set a tile too deep or to check mortar coverage. This breaks the suction and it WILL fall down. Pull the tile out, retrowel and start over. I always cover the shower floor with plywood and stand cardboard up against the walls a few feet just in case.
I am surprised they don’t sell a screw in spacer for just this application. Something like the nails they use on Tyvek with the orange plastic discs. Pop them out before you put in the grout, would work double duty.
Placerville is quite the town. Hangtown, i mean hangman back in the days of criminals on the loose. Lovely B&B's right in town, just over the foot bridge. Great food and views. We worked on the reservoir up the road. Forebay lake. Pollock Pines, very small place
I skim coat ceiling, butter the tile and make circular pattern with my with my tile trowel which will act like a suction cup when pressing tile in place ,press enough to get air out . set in exact position. Have not had one come down or fall to date
Always use 1/2x1/2 trowel and customs pro-lite is KING the best thinset I have ever used, i've been setting for 18years, back butter back butter back butter. Large format tiles require flexible thinset with a very liberal bed of mortar. The shower looks beautiful
I’ve installed 60x36 inch large panel tiles on ceilings before those bathrooms were 12 feet tall and man it was a struggle we would put 2x4s all around the walls and wedge them in place and would also add some from the ground up for extra protection
Agree with a couple of others who recommend making 2-3 circles of thinset on the back of the tile (like large donuts). They act like a vacuum suction cup when you press them to the ceiling. I did my steam shower like this, with 12x24” tiles…no sagging or dropping of any tile. Used Mapei Floor and Tile Mortar and let it set up a bit longer than I normally do with floor or even wall installation.
Thanks for putting down material you used as well as method! I'm researching for our shower now... WAY BEFORE we start doing tile (hubby just put in a new drain). We have 6"x18" tiles. I may still use a T-brace for the longer cuts just in case. We're using Mapei Premium Floor and Tile Mortar.
When I do a ceiling I also add a bunch of extra screws to the sheetrock. Last shower ceiling I did was 30" x 60". I counted 12 screws holding up the entire ceiling. I added like another 20 coated "exterior" screws just to make sure that ceiling could hold the weight.
@@cyclinglover3721 I done it several times now. Green board, screwed off like every 6 inches on center. Two coats of red guard then mortar and tile. Yes I have been back to these jobs. 5 years later, still zero issues.
I do the ceiling first, it alleviates anything falling down in finished product and the walls lock in the ceiling. Especially on a steam shower that should have a pitched ceiling to begin with.
I use servolight by Kiesel for my ceilings. Usual run my tiles on a 45 since the joints won't line up on all 3 walls.Recently did 30"x30" on ceiling . Used a t brace just in case but they were actually staying on their own to my surprise!
I’ve learned a lot of tips and tricks and the easiest fastest way I’ve found is to just use some baking soda in the thinset and basically turns regular thinset into super fast quickest that’s never failed for me
I was just kinda checking to see if I was doing it right (I’m an Electrician by trade) and so far so good….. I’m doing the walls and ceiling in 12x24 and I agree front to back if you can’t do both. It looks better I think and my clients agree and that’s what counts!¡!¡!¡!¡
all you need here is 2 notches one on the ceiling and one on the tile and when you compress the two it creates a vaccuum effect that holds very well. As long as you you use an ultra light type mortar you will be fine. I do NOT recommend spreading a notch and back buttering the tile....both need at least a quarter inch notch to create suction.
When I do a ceiling I cut small squares of Durock or Wood. Put a screw thru it. And then drill the screws between the grout line. When tile drys you pull the blocks of wood and screws out. Also ProLite works Great for the application
I know it's a ceiling so water proofing is a bit less of a concern and water generally doesn't travel up hill unless wicking. if using a waterproof membrane or membrane board, this method will leave you with spots between tiles where the waterproofing would be broken with no way to band it. Mostly just saying I could see various companies denying warranty if they found this but idk.
I would probably use this method. It's also going to pull the tile into the thinset better than any human can press, maybe Ronnie Coleman could, but anyways good method, and having water somehow defy gravity and leak uphill is a good one. That would be the least of your problems if you have the ceiling above the shower leak.....from the shower....
I saw a trick somewhere online where the guy troweled the ceiling surface with all the lines going one way, then he used the trowel to make a circle in the mortar. He said the circle pattern helped add suction to keep the tile adhered to the ceiling. Curious about your thoughts on that, never tried it myself.
15 years contractor I usually use heat gun and apply the thinset in the tile first and only skim the ceiling….try heat gun help a lot and you can work comfortably.
I like how you showed a mistake happened cause even the pros that’s a possibility in construction. I still watched the rest of the video. Think I’ll do mosaic instead.
If you have to, use sticks to hold up the tiles till the thinset sets. Get a pack of 1x2s. Hopefully, they should be priced reasonably now. Or run a bunch of old 2x4s thru a table saw.
How much do you charge to be able to cover housing while doing a project in Sacramento when living in San Diego? Serious question coach. I feel like pricing needs to stop being so taboo. If we talked about it more people would stop charging so cheap !
To all viewers you should watch the TROWEL AND ERROR standards video. You will notice there is no way he is getting the 95% plus required surface area coverage for this tile. DIY home renovators always seem to skip ANSI standards, and they are opening up the home owner to possible future failures of the bond.
The proper way is to mud the ceiling first, give you firmness, level and stability this way you don't even need clips and you can use any kind of thin set with 1/4 " trowel. The dry mud absorb the water so fast it dries in minutes I have being doing this forever believe me it really works. One last thing, you go up with your tiles on the wall but don't put the last tile, set the ceiling first and then install the last tile on the wall joining the ceiling. You have a lot to learn.
USE PROLITE!!!!!!! Best thinset for ceilings!! Also don't have to mix it super tough like that. Probably not getting a proper bond like that. Also, I like to back butter my tiles with a 3/8s notch trowel. After I'm done, I'll take the short side of the trowel with some more mud on it, then I'll start doing circles in the motor. It creates a suction cup more then less! Helps suck it to the ceiling and your good to go! But make sure to use pro lite thinset.
Ceilings are always sketchy and make me nervous to work under. 🤷🏻♂️ Full coverage with a lightweight mortar like Prolite or X77 mixed on the stiff side makes em pretty easy but I still won't work under em till the next day.
On the future just a day Before install tile on Ceiling just skim cove the ceiling. And next day is dry and the tile stay very well try next time and use polite Thin-set
I used a pole sander pad attached to an adjustable extension pole and used it to brace each tile (or tile joint) as I put them up. I found that tiles can fall using the Schluter thin set also if not mixed very thick. My question has been - will the thin set actually hold these 12x24 10lb tiles over time without some kind of anchoring system. I'm betting 'yes' on my DYI tile installation (fingers crossed).
