Nutrition II is effectively an almost 100% working speed buff for lumberjacks, when chopping trees with multiple logs. A lumberjack will take the logs back to their flag before chopping the next tree, and a default beaver is only strong enough to carry one log. The 30% buff to strength is enough to allow them to carry two logs.
Legit, grilled potatoes are easily the best food buff. In fact for ironteeth, depending on how many beavers you want, you actually might not want carrots. Lifespan makes each breeding pod produce more beavers, cause they're still alive as more and more are made. But with no lifespan buffs it's easy to know it's about 6 or 8 beavers per pod.
@@JuddMan03 yeah my point is it's "about" 25% lol. 1 pod is anywhere between like 6 and 20 beavers depending on upgrades. But it's not easy to keep track of, least not if you're new.
Another good tip about decoration: if you place a decoration next to (or on top) of a building the bonus is extended to the entirety of the building. That means that by placing it next to a fireplace or even a temple, the beavers inside get both their socializing/praying needs as well as the decoration buff simultaneously. I think that is by far the most efficient way of providing the buff as such buildings are accessed by nearly every beaver for an extended period of time. I'm not sure about Awe, but i guess it functions in the same way.
I strategically build my housing to capitalize on this. For example, using one shrub to buff 2 houses. They gain full buff duration by sleeping overnight in the effect.
That first tip right off the bat is BRILLIANT. I'll definitely be trying that. Thank you. EDIT: And now finished the video, these are some great tips. Love the tip for stacking a farmhouse on top of a warehouse and using it to store the food collected.
@@pedrogonzaleznunez2197 Working as intended, moving water to another point. Thing is it'll dry out so if you use it to much you need to micromanage it.
@@pedrogonzaleznunez2197 It's not an exploit, since the Timberborn have no irrigation towers. It must be intended, but it's obviously much more powerful than it should be.
one personal tip on hard difficultly (especially on that island map) is to use storage houses as 1-2 level height bridges during early game which cost no science and fewer logs per block length. This reduces the requirements of planks for stairs/ large amount of logs for dam bridges, and helps fast expansion for instant logs supply.
@@windar2390 I think you build the storage buildings inside the river or lake and create paths on top of them to use as a bridge. I think that's what they meant.
holy shit, that watering with 4 boxes! i figured out myself that it would probably be a good idea to blow holes in the map everywhere and put water inside but for some strange reason my brain stopped there and didnt made the next thinking step that you could achieve that with boxes as low tech version too. thx !
I do 8 tiles because my OCD cant accept the 4 tiles only. Been experimenting a lot with aqueducs and other water driving levees but yeah, doing this simple "water tower" is the most efficient. The water pump will automatically fill up to .8 something so no need to fear flooding from it.
@@BadroghYT I just tried this and it hasn't worked at all. Have they changed something so it doesn't irrigate anymore? I have like half a tile of mottled green around the levees but nothing that will help me grow anything
@@emilycade5959 I played this in Early Access, so it may have changed indeed as this was more a hack than anything else to be fair. I admit I haven't played in a while, but would not be surprised if they reinforced the water management aspect, as this is the core of this fun game.
tip for hard mode or insane custom mode: Berries are the hardiest: they survive the LONGEST of the crop types during a drought. Wheat will die in just 0.5 a day, which basically means, if not irrigated, your wheat field will be dead before you have a chance to fix the problem. Berries are required for iron teeth, but even for the folktails, their value comes from not requiring PLANTING after each harvest cycle (meaning the gatherer can be paused half the time and the beaver employed as a spare inventor as (s)he waits for the berries to grow each cycle... and also it's valuable that they can survive the longest during a drought. Dedicate one or maybe two gatherers to your berry fields and maybe one or two storage centers to it (making sure to always set your warehouse permissions elsewhere to reject berries at all other places) and berries will provide a sort of safety net in the event a drought knocks out the rest of your crop fields. And although berries provide no buffs, beavers will only resort to eating berries if no other food type is available/desired. (if bread is available and nutrition 3 is unfulfilled, they will eat bread; but having berries in storage, as well as the other 3 types of foods will not cause your beavers to lack any of the 3 better foods: they will prioritize the healthier food and gain the buffs they desire, and only resort to the berries if they can't get anything better. But otherwise: yeah, berries are lame.
Another point about the distribution limits is that the left column also acts as a priority for incoming resources. If you have less than the indicated number, the resource will be prioritized when brought into the district.
Just got the game last night and I really appreciate that the easy mode has been super easy. Makes me feel confident about playing on normal in the future.
Max number for dropoff point includes all the resources in the district. So even if haulers haul away the resource into the storage, if the district as a whole has the more than max amount of the items, the district won't receive the said item.
This setup actually wastes 6 squares of arable land (road between and stairs). Its best to max farmland around block of 4-5 farms (minimum roads and no other buildings). Small warehouses are pointless in mid to late game. I build a block of large warehouses just next to my homes in district center. Trick is to build row of large warehouses so the first row has 1 square in between. fill that gap with platforms. Now build another layer of storehouses on top. I usually end in 6-8 buildings high pyramid of large storehouses. Parallel to that storing block is housing block so you can use same stairs going up.
@@KK-xz4rk Using JuddMan's suggestion you can lower the amount of wasted space to 2 tiles which might be worth the trade off. Of course using the default suggestion would be best if built over water like a natural river as that is not wasting valuable farmland.
I really love the storage under the farm house. I think we can apply that idea to production areas too but also include housing. I recently started adding housing (and water storage) next to my production areas to reduce worker travel. Everyone running to a giant housing complex late game was slowing down my computer :) I can see me building a ground level platform of storage and housing with processing on top now.
Great tips. Keep them coming. Here are some that I have kind of figured out along the way (Just started playing). With the current storage system, I have a central storage facility that allows all, but requests none. Then I set up storage close to where its processed. I set that to request the raw resource, then optionally allow (but not request) the item produced there. I do the same with log storage. Early to mid game, I constantly increase storage to keep everything produced (as long as I can spare the wood). If I stockpile potato or wheat early, I will eventually burn though it when I get processing in place. And it gives me a buffer so I have more time to increase the size of those crops later. My early power production includes hamster wheels for power during the drought. I pull workers off the water pumps for them. When setting up a new district, set up the trade routes first and let them stock some materials before sending a crew over. This way you know their basic needs are meet and gives you more time to get them established. If your new district is close to your previous one. Use your old district to build as much as you can before you put in a gate. You can build storage or water tanks and get them filled up before they become part of that other district. Districts can be a long way away from each other as long as you can create a path between them (without needing to build stairs). If you do need to build stairs, you can create a temporary district just to build them and tear it down after. The further from the other districts you are, the more self sufficient they need to be because it takes longer for trade routes to move materials. You can build walls around a water source and it will fill it up until it overflows. Flood gates are not a replacement for dam blocks. The flood gates can only stop at .5 increments, where the dam block is just under a full block. So use the dam blocks to define the max level you want the water, and flood gates to release extra water when needed. For the Folktails, only build as much housing as you need to keep population under control. For the Iron Teeth, pause some of your breeding pods when you start to get too many workers. Keep an eye on the number of kids, those are your future unemployed workers. It's hard to add food production last minute if you have too many workers. When you have multiple farms in an area, having one focus on planting is often enough. The others can focus on harvesting. Anyway, I love the series. Thank you.
When planning to start a new district, I like to place the District Center and a Drop-Off Point and let the Drop-Off fill up with food and water (and maybe planks) before migrating any beavers there. That way there's a good backup so I don't have to micromanage them as closely and they can just work on their own for a good while.
This setup actually wastes 6 squares of arable land (road between and stairs). Its best to max farmland around block of 4-5 farms (minimum roads and no other buildings). Small warehouses are pointless in mid to late game. I build a block of large warehouses just next to my homes in district center. Trick is to build row of large warehouses so the first row has 1 square in between. fill that gap with platforms. Now build another layer of storehouses on top. I usually end in 6-8 buildings high pyramid of large storehouses. Parallel to that storing block is housing block so you can use same stairs going up.
Nice! Your beavertowns look great and your use of space is admirable! One thing I wished they added was the ability to combine say, multiple gear factories together so they only require 1 entrace. So have 1 with an entrace with a path, and some others connected with their entrance facing into the wall of the main one. The number of workers would just increase with the amount of connected factories with no door of their own. Would help with some space saving stuff.
Thank you for these excellent tips @KatherineOfSky, I have 100 hours in the game and I had no idea the Low number in the drop off point was relating to the sending of goods not the receiving!
Your first tip is genius! Good idea. Just got the game and so excited to play, I just really suck at these type of games. Your video has been the most helpful so far. Awesome job. your voice is easy to listen to as well
Build water storage inside your city, so the beavers don't have to go far away to drink 1 water. It's more efficient to carry water in bulk closer to them.
My beavers always run away towards the water pumps and empty those before considering the water storage next to them. Putting houses near the pumps as well as 1-2 pumps along busy paths helped me save a lot of time
Regardng tip 2: After the Trees have been planted, you can cancel them, using the right-most icon in the Tree menu. This means that the Trees will keep growing and be harvested, but won’t be re-planted. Then when you see a lot of bare green ground, you know it’s time to plant something else.
Thank you for explaining the distribution system. I thought I understood it , turns out I understood wrong, now I know why some of my districs were not getting proper amount of stuff delivered to them!
Great tips! :D Especially the tip with the water dump building. The UI is needs a little work, that's for sure, but I'm sure they'll fix it up eventually. Also, I might've misunderstood how the max limit in warehouses work but I think the max limit is used as a way for the beavers to know when they are allowed to transfer items from one warehouse to another in the same district. Not as a way to prevent work from workers to be done. The carriers will automatically move resources when there's no more work to be done anywhere else.
Its not a limit, it's a request, so haulers can bring important items to the warehouse. It doesn't, however, prevent more than that from being stored. Which is a problem if you have a billion carrots using up all the space and you wanted to have some bread stored there too.
Have you tried the map creation tool yet? I made a map earlier that is designed explicitly for laid back relaxed play, for Folktails more than Ironteeth. By cycle 9 the average well being can be at 12, with 15 being the highest I've yet seen. There is a discussion thread on Steam about making maps for challenging gameplay, as in hard mode and truly limited resources to start with. People are pushing for means to share the maps as part of the game.
I consider that to be a text box, as in mouse over to not clutter the UI. Once you get how it work, you don't really need to have it on screen all the time.
About building, beavers can actually build a structure on nearby tile no matter how far bellow it is. 🦫 For example, when you build a reservoir wall, you can make a platforms alongside the wall, and there are no need to actually build stairs down.
I think the right collumn at 5:30 is the limit for deliveries and use the total district storage not just the drop-of points, so if you set high 100 carrots and have a storage full no carrots will be deliverd, its basicly a "request" but will only use existing trade routes to request
These are very nice tips! And I love that you explain everything too. I wonder if tip #1 can be tweaked into doing more useful things. Maybe it can be converted into a channel that makes a waterwheel spin during droughts, possibly with a pump or two on the other end to recover as much water as possible. It would be so silly if that worked.
It's extremely useful on maps that have poor water coverage. But yes, you can certainly do some power stuff, but that requires a decent amount of beaver haulers.
If you scale it up in the late game you can create a reservoir at the bottom of a hill, dynamite out a channel from the top into it, and place enough water dumps at the top to fuel a river that powers water wheels all the way down. The water feeds right back into the reservoir, so the only resource it uses up is beaver power hauling the water back up the hill.
You can build paths over dams & leevees, but if you just need a bridge over a river, it’s more cost effective to build a platform (20 logs for 1 dam vs 2 logs & 4 planks for one platform) instead. ***Yes platforms require planks, but the lumber mill is already an early game building, since you need planks to build Forestors.
Water management tip: You can have a 1 tile wide gap in a dam at any height and constant amount of water will go through, no matter how deep the water is. I think this is because the water dynamics is only calculated on the top water title to save on processing power. This means that a water gate 3 tile high is not needed just leave a 1 tile open in your dam (use platforms to cross) and the water that will go thus will be more than enough to keep your power wheels going and your reservoir will still fill up during the temperate season, allowing for a continuous flow during dry seasons.
I just decided timberborn was going to be my kickstart into youtubing and I'm probably going to make a video very much like this, but I want to explain some mechanics that a lot of people seem to have trouble with. Like why things aren't being cleared by builders and how distance is calculated. But I wanna know, do you know about using haulers to ship things instead of the Amazon delivery boys? Cause it is WAY faster. But it has a max range of just under 90 blocks and requires micro management, but it's so much faster it's worth. I just speed ran some dude's custom map and used it to pass logs across 4 districts spanning about 200 blocks total. Had I used the shipping guys it would have taken years. I'll show you when the video is up. If you wanna see it lol
@@venatus5243 thanks! I'll comment here so you can see possibly the first ever timberborn speedrun lmao. Still editing it. But it's funny. I messed up a lot, but I think it was a decent time none the less
@@briantroy7376 when you said amazon delivery boys, i thought you meant idle lumberjacks. I LOL'd. Then i realized you meant the trading post. You mean putting them next to drop off points on the edge of town right? It is very effective indeed, and if you have three bordering districts, it gives it the feel of a marketplace.
@@JuddMan03 No, no drop off points needed. I mean you have a gate between two districts. You build a log pile right next to the gate. If that log pile connects on one side of the gate, it's in district B on the other side it's in district A. So you priority it by haulers they load 180 logs in it. Then you delete the path connecting it to A and connect it to B. Now you've passed 180 logs
Cool ideas you got, I built a massive Aqueduct in plains map took forever to do, and where I had paths I dug trenches and put a platform on top with a path to water areas that ran from the river and a dam at the edge to store a little water, you can see what I did if that helps.
I love how this game kind of presents itself as pretty simplistic. Almost to a fault because you think, this isn't that deep (pun). Then you see what people do with it and think, wuuuuuuuuut?
I wonder if yield per day is the right way to calculate food output. Because “beaver actions” are also a limit, especially early on. So maybe food per beaver action per day?
The food efficiency is highly dependent on each individual area. That's why I mentioned the extra processes as well as the food per day. "beaver action" doesn't have much weight either, especially if you have plenty of beavers or tons of power. One has to draw one's own conclusions from the individual situations.
great tips.. the water one feels a LOT cheaty.. but it works. I like explosives and make a 2x4 or bigger, with trails coming off to have it cover more area.
@@KatherineOfSky looks like a patch or something, can not do the water dump on levy any more as of today. If you build 1 levy, then the dumper.. THEN the rest.. it seems to still work.. for now
If you are willing to micromanage some crop rotation, you get a significantly better wood production outcome that is self-sustaining. So, here's the basis. Maple trees are great, providing the most lumber per day of growth, but you need logs while you are waiting for them to grow, and then if they all mature at once, you go from needing 0 lumberjacks and very little log storage to needing many lumberjacks and a great deal of storage, or else the trees sit mature in the field waiting for someone to harvest them. I have a solution for this: Log Cohorts. It would be most ideal if you had a huge forest of maple trees that matured in sequence, never so many that you needed a ton of lumberjacks to do the harvesting, nor so few that you ran short of logs for your projects. So I've designed a pattern of eight different "cohorts" of maples, such that one cohort will mature every three days in rotation, meaning that only 1/8th of the maples need to be harvested at any given time. You can make these cohorts of whatever size suits you, and the initial setup will utilize other tree types to give you logs while you wait for the first cohort to mature. I will number these cohorts 1-8. Cohort 1 will mature after 24 days, cohort 2 after 27 days, etc. Cohort 8 matures after 45 days, and on day 48 cohort 1 is maturing again. To get these cohorts to work out, you COULD just plant a new grove every 3 days, but that wastes a lot of time and arable land. Instead, begin by planting the cohorts as follows: Cohort 1: Maple Cohort 2, 4, 7, and 8: Birch Cohort 3, 5, and 6: Pine I know that birch seems like it is not worth it, but it provides some immediate logs and spaces out the cohorts properly. From there, switch out cohorts on maturity as follows: Day 9: Switch cohort 4 to maple and cohort 8 to pine. Day 12: Switch cohorts 3 and 6 to birch, and switch cohort 5 to maple. Day 18: Switch cohort 7 to maple. Day 21: Switch cohort 8 to maple. Day 24: By this point you've harvested 8 cohorts of birch and 4 of pine along with your first of maple. You only have 3 "paydays" left where you won't harvest a full cohort of maple. Day 27: Switch cohort 2 to maple. Day 30: Switch cohort 3 to maple. Day 39: Switch cohort 6 to maple. At this point, you've harvest 12 cohorts of birch, 4 of pine, and 2 of maple, and will get a cohort of maple maturing every 3 days forever after. I know it's a fair bit of micromanaging, but I think the payoff is worth it. With each cohort being something like a 7x7 area, you would use an area that's about 21x21, and produce around 400 logs every 3 days. That's got to be worth a little extra effort.
Another tip is that water evaporates at an average rate of 0.05m per day… so one block of irrigation should last for 20 days (a bit too OP in my opinion). Also, as one might expect, the evaporation only counts surface water for its calculations, so a block of 4x1x2 (length x width x depth) will last you twice as much as a block of 8x1x1… this means that as though irrigation channels are very cool, especially with plataforms and roads on top, they are very inefficient bc they just use way more water than scattered blocks. Lastly, for reservoirs, it’s way better to go for deeper ones as opposed to shallow but extensive ones, bc you lose a lot of water through evaporation.
One of the last steps in the tutorial says to plant 20 Birch. I’ve found that a good start is to tell the Forrester to plant 30 Pine, then wait until they’re planted. Then tell him to plant 30 (not 20) Birch. Wait. Once they’re planted, tell him to plant a lot of Maple. 50, 60, or maybe more. Don’t cancel any of the trees after planting, early on. Let him replant everything. Only when the Maples have finished growing should you cancel all the Pine and Birch, to replace them with Maple. It’s also useful to set up a 2nd ‘remote site” Forrester. On the default map, Canyons, I like to set him up across the river, with a path over my Dam, then tell this Forrester to plant lots and lots of Maple. Then just forget about him for the next 24 days, until his Maples are grown. Then you have a Log bonanza.
You could just tell the first Forrester to prioritize one over the others instead of not planning the other trees. This way you have a little buffer time where he starts planting birch right after finishing the pine trees. Then you can set up the maple trees. Makes you not waist time when forgetting to tell him to plant the next. When he starts planting maples, just change the priority to "none"
Kat doesn't use it as a personal preference, but she won't tell us not to. It IS objectively the best way to irrigate land right now, so if you don't use it, you're handicapping yourself.
I agree that the waterdump is completely unbalanced, but unfortunately, the Iron Teeth do not have access to the irrigation Tower, so we can only hope that this situation gets rebalanced by the devs.
So I've been playing (on easy admittedly) and have colonies of 400+ beavers and haven't bothered to delve into storage logistics......this explains so much of my time delays
The Low/High district limits just match up to a warehouse's limits except for the whole district. So you can say I want 40 to 100 and it will import anything with less than Low first and export anything over High.
@@KatherineOfSky It's very simple to see that's not the case. The amount you have on a well connected district stays as close as possible to within that range. That means importing what you don't have (Low) and exporting what you don't need (High).
@@KatherineOfSky The tooltip doesn't directly match what either you or I said but if you didn't delete my link to a screenshot you'd have all you'd need.
@@KatherineOfSky or maybe youtube deleted it. I put the link in a separate comment because comments with links seem to like to disappear on youtube. But if you pull up your distribution limits you can see that the amount you have is always between Low and High. If you exported at Low that would not be the case.
Ermm if you have too much wheat, perhaps its time time to mass build glistmill and use that district as central flour district to distribute other districts.
it's a bit of an exploit though, because of how evaporation and land irrigation works. Water dump in 1 block covers a 15-16 block radius around the water, while an irrigation tower only works in a 10-block radius around the tower.
@@TPixelAdventures I think we are past "a bit" of an exploit and square into "big honking exploit with bells on" territory. XD. Let's hope the devs pick up on it soon. (I feel bad for water towers.)
@@KatherineOfSky I've been mulling on this a wee bit. Given that water naturally hydrates at 15 tiles; however the irrigation tower only works to 10 tiles; then perhaps the water dump is the one which is correctly balanced, and it is the tower in need of balancing upwards? Or, to err on the side of caution, a bit of a wiggle to the middle for them both; I certainly don't see a nerf needed to a massive extent though. The devs are still working of aspects of the game, so who knows what will happen :D :D :D
To balance it, an isolated 1x1 water block should dry up faster. It seems like there's a fixed amount of evaporation per tile, regardless of how much land it's feeding. The calculation for it might be expensive though. Perhaps each tile pulls 1 unit of water from the nearest water source every few days.
Nice to know, but in your Lets Play, you told us, you dont want to use this pumps for Water to Make it green because its not balanced :) Have nice day, enjoy your content
Yes, I mentioned that it is completely unbalanced compared to the Irrigation Tower. However, the Iron Teeth don't the option of an Irrigation Tower, so they have to use something to transfer water and irrigate the land.
The first tip is ofc viable and super strong but somehow feels a bit hmm overpowered. You could have multiple stations like that and just skip a lot of the challenge in the game. Anyways its in the game and up to each player choice. Also since im stuck in bed for a while now with yt and books as only companions its great to have these vids. Thanks!!
@@KatherineOfSky i hoped i could flood in short intervals for the same effect… but without beaver circuit network it didnt seem feasible. Im a new player tho, maybe beaver circuits are a thing…
No circuits yet. But if you build next to a natural cliff, like with 2 walls of cliff, 2 of levee, you should be able to get a similar effect. Or use dynamite to blow a hole in the ground.
Hey you played a lot after ending yesterdays episode...i am waiting for next episode...and i want to remind you tht u forget to path for the new house...even though they built it...it was empty for 2 eps...pls build the path and build more houses for them.
This game badly needs indicator when your placing power buildings , I had no idea where crack shaft was supposed to go , and placing wheel wasn't that easy , I'm only saying cause this , I think Its a good game but still needs work
I agree that they are a little bit odd to place. The trick I use is to rotate the building a few time until I see the cyan arrow, and then I put that toward the road, since arrow means beaver entrances, and the gear means a power connection.
