Time to Learn Trad Climbing 

Yup, upward pull is definitely something to consider on multi’s when you’re belaying the second after changing over any pitch and your partner is already leading or about to come on belay. This is advantageous because if your partner falls and on the rare chance it’s actually a solid whip the climbers fall forces on the rope, gear and belay can have catastrophic implications, for example….. same situation my partner prepares to leave the ballet for the next pitch, and after clipping a quick draw to one of the anchor points, he clips his rope into that, and then comes off the Pelee and starts to climb up placing gear every 7 feet in the crack until he gets about 25 feet above me, he maxes out quick 7:42 ….FALLS!!!!!! Given that he didn’t expect to fall. He was about 10 feet above his last piece and landed even with me, but laying off to the side about 15 feet with the amount of force is put on the top piece of gear, the bottom four pieces were prevented from leveling out of the crack by the one piece as an outrigger For upward Pull saved the day as if it wasn’t for the upward directional the impact can zipper the bottom pieces all the way up to the piece that you just fell on, that would leave you hanging however far up a pitch with 1 piece of gear between you and your belayer……..I don’t know if you folks out there remember Goran Kopp but this exact type of zipper situation is what killed him at Frenchman Cooley in Washington state, he was climbing a crack system, but was using all sport style, draws to clip due his camping devices, when he fell not very far above his last piece, and the force of his fall created in a Normas impact and the bottom, six pieces zippered all the way up to his penultimate piece what he had fell on also failed under extreme impact forces leaving Goran 60+ feet off the deck to a ground fall that killed him, unfortunate circumstance that could have been absolutely avoided using one piece right near the base of the route, rigged for downward pull.

I wonder how terrible the others are...

Das ist bei Ulorna in Bohuslän, Schweden

@@Vertizontal Danke für die Antwort. Ich werde das in nächster Zeit ausprobieren. Bei uns in Tirol werden auf diese Art Mixed-Routen abgesichert.

Liebe Grüße zu euch ins schöne Tirol! Inzwischen sind Achim und ich auch wieder in den Mixed Routen der Alpen unterwegs. Vielleicht läuft man sich ja einmal über den Weg. :)) LG, Markus

Normally you would have a belayer. In this case, he was only climbing up high enough to build an anchor, then attach directly to the anchor to test it. Then when he led the entire route, he did have a belayer.

That low nut protects the anchor against an upward force. Without that low piece, the anchor could flip up during a long lead fall on the pitch above :) If the anchor is used for TR belaying only, you don't need that nut. When time is critical (e.g. in the alpine), one might omit the low piece at first, and then add it while belaying the follower, so once the follower passes and switches to leading, the anchor is protected against upward forces.

What about sport climbing outdoors on rock, free solo climbing, alpine climbing or aid climbing. Trad climbing is just one discipline so adding it in the title makes searching easier.

I have the feeling that - depending on the country - rock climbing is understood differently. So in Germany when you tell somebody you go "rock"-climbing, it is mostly associated with "sport"-climbing :) We made a video that explains the different styles of climbing, I'd be interested in what you think! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DxZbc6PJjHE.html

@Dave Hause oKaY bR0