I'm a retired vehicle mechanic and machinist. I prefer railroad grade pocket watches. I have a real appreciation for quality, especially when you realize the watch is around 100 years old. Real craftsmen in those days. Keep up the good work.
I think I've watched all of your videos about using a timegrapher, but I haven't seen where you fully explain the trace. Do you have a video that explains the irregularities seen, including random dots? I notice that when I increase the mic gain on my Weishi 1000 the dots are minimized and the 2 lines are more uniform. Also I see that you don't put tape on either the watch cases or the mic. I guess scratching isn't a problem for you?
Hi i hope you have a nice day today! I am happy with the recent video's as i decided that i also wanted to open up and service an old watch, but had no clue where to start
One thing I noticed is that having a screw down crown tightened too much can give bad timegrapher readings. Also, much better readings are given when the ambient temperature is room temperature, something like 70 degrees fahrenheit. I was getting much worse readings while using it in the basement where it was 60 degrees. And having the mic gain set high (I'm using a Weishi 1000) gave improved readings, as well.
The lift angle of the Unitas/ETA 6497/98 in all versions is 44 degrees. Unfortunately, the ranfft watches site does not list the lift angles, but other than that most relevant data is there. So, good tip!
I did not understand the names of the web pages you mentioned for a source on movements. It sounded as though you said "Doctor Ruft" and "bitphone", could you please provide the actual links to those pages. I've been searching for movement specifications and can't find anything. My understanding is that modern movements now have "service manuals" for each movement that contains all the specs a watchmaker would need to work on that particular movement.
I know this is an old video, I hope you can help me clarify if I understood correctly. You say if the tic toc has like a metallic click sound, somenthing is wrong? I have a not old Mido piece that sounds somenthing like that when I put it on my ear, should I be concerned about it?
What are these references or sites Kraft and Dit Van ? I would be interested in checking them out. Than you Kalle for great lessons and entertainment regards from Australia.
So, if I have understood your explanation about the lift angle correctly, I will conclude that probably one can also calculate it by observing the movement. I mean you measure that angle on the movement (of-course it will need quite some attention).
I believe what you call “over-banking” is really “re-banking”, although I’m not 100 per cent sure. Over-banking is, as I understand it, when the pallet fork has been locked on the wrong side of the roller impulse pin, which shouldn’t really happen when you have a safety roller. Anyway, if the guard pin is missing or too short over-banking could happen if the movement is subjected to trauma from the side at the wrong time.
When you test an automatic, in what state do you put it on the Timegrapher? do you fully wind it by hand or do you just take it from a night on the winder? My miyota 8200 has a lot less amplitude from the winder than manually wound. What's the standard handling?
7:08 - A question about the amplitude, Kalle: With a mere microphone, how can the timegrapher measure the maximal rotation of the balance wheel? That one baffles me.Cheers!
One tik in the Swiss Lever Escapement is 5 sounds almost simultaneously (and one tak as well). ALMOST but not quite. The time between those (inaudible) sounds is the base of the calculations.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Kalle .... another great video! Thank you very much!! Those 5 sounds come in a particular sequence. Starting with the impulse jewel hitting the pallet fork, what are the other 4 (in sequence)?
Great video Kalle! I am quite new to the world of horology despite having a love of watches for many years, so please forgive me if my questions are basic.. Would the best amplitude be around the same figure for All mechanical watches or does it vary? Many thanks 👍
I was using a Weishi No.1000 timegrapher for a number of years and then discovered there is a No.1900 also available. The main improvement, or benefit of the latter, is that the "tic" and the "tock" are displayed in different colours and makes it a lot more intuitive to get the beat error corrected as you can see if the two colours flip which indicate you've adjusted too far in one direction. It was worth it to me to pay a little more for the No.1900. Regulating your mechanical watches is a very satisfying process.
