Timelapse video showing sand compaction, screeding process, paving edge/framing and herringbone paver pattern with photo of final finish. Music: / ima-original-mix / peace-of-mind-chill-ba...
The craftsmanship is definitely there! If I may be so bold to say, you guys are working redundantly! Dig out your floor 6 inches, set your lines to your level desired, set your bars to 3 inches from the line, fill with road base for maximum stability and permeability, compact. reset your bars to the lines they should give you your standard 2.25 inches of your paver. Allowing an inch of decomposed granite or fill sand whatever your use. This’ll prevent any sinkage due to an excess of D.G. Everyone works differently, but this method might reduce your production time by quite a bit! Keep on keeping on guys! Good end product!🙏
Hi Steve, thanks for you comment and recommendations 👍 this was the first time doing herringbone pavers or laying pavers of this size using the bars so still learning!
I'm thinking this patio will fail in the next few years. There will likely be pooling, due to improper fill and compaction. You should only fill 3"-4" max depth at a time with your sub-base then compact and fill more. Those little walk behind compactors are not going to get good compaction on 5"-6" at a time... How ever over time hydro compaction will occur, due to the rain which leads to pooling... Freeze thaw line and saturation rate can have effect as well... Definitely take a minimum of 3 passes over the entire area whit the compactor, and it doesn't hurt to take an extra pass or two... Also not sure you did anything to lock in you base where it ran underneath the deck, if so that edge might fail as well... But good luck with it...
When laying herringbone I leave the border blocks till last. Instead of having to cut loads of small pieces put a line down the edge of the laid blocks and cut the width of the border block. Try to leave a bigger size block on the edge instead of that small triangle piece.
Then you are short cutting and not doing it as true herring bone. He did the layout correct. The triangles on each side should be similar in size. I would not pay you until you did it correctly if I asked for herring bone.
@@johnm8961 off course it's still herring bone. Some site gangers don't like small cuts on a driveway and it's a major waste of blocks and time cutting all those small triangle pieces. It's the standard way I've done it and every company I've worked with does it.
I don’t give a hoot how you do it or have learned from others that do it wrong. Border jumpers think they know everything without proper apprenticeship. One bad Apple is all it takes. Old school is the right way. He laid out correctly and put the cuts on the ends. End of story.
Get some flat steel strips instead of those pipes. Just use a screed with a level in it to get your heights, lie the metal strip on the mark left by the screed. Wont leave holes in the sand. EZ
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Watching the prep work to ready the surface to accept the pavers, I knew then that this project would be something to behold even before the first brick was laid. It would have been nice to see a few brick edge cuts and watch them go into this herringbone pattern. But one thing puzzles me: why was the guy filling the raise bed not using a wheel barrow to transport the soil mix, instead of traveling back and forth, back and forth, back and forth with a wimpy container? All in all, a great-looking job!
Hey there, thanks for your comment. Yes I should have recorded the small cuts however I am going to make a video soon for how I did all of the small 45 degree cuts using a template for my circular saw. Also in terms of the wheelbarrow, unfortunately the access was very narrow and we could only go through the garage, if we used wheelbarrows we would have had to lift the whole barrow up each time as everything was raised with no access. Normally I use wheelbarrows whenever we can!
it would be time consuming to do this but i would think trimming 45° 1/16" on all four edges of the top side. without running a jointer through a mortar joint those edges are sharp and could potentially cut feet if walking in them barefooted.
I can’t believe how many times u screeded the sand then whacked it,and then screeded it more times plus u kept standing on the screeded area continuously…wow. We use crusherdust/cracker dust for the base (unless it’s a driveway then we use CTB cement treated roadbase or just mix cement dust with the base) but we screed the base to the height that the sand will be and then we compact the base twice which compacts down around 10mm and then screed 10mm of sand ONCE to the desired height. We don’t use bloody conduit or pieces of wood to screed on or with, we use proper screed bars and metal strips that are 3mm thick by 50mm wide by 2mts long which we call tracks, we don’t have to put shovel loads of sand to fill the big gaps like u did. Another thing u were laying the pavers the wrong way, every paver u had to fit in between 2 other pavers. You finally laid them the right way on the last 2 courses where u can easily put the paver up against the last one instead of trying to squeeze it into a gap. There’s nothing wrong with the triangle bits and there is no waste either for u get 4 triangles out of one paver, cut 2 pavers side by side on the brick saw at the same time in half and then cut each half in half again from corner to corner and it will give u an exact triangle. We overlay the pavers then mark a line to cut the herringbone pavers so the FULL paver sized soldierbond border pavers goes in (you don’t cut the border paver to make it fit). We then sweep gapsand/paverbond sand from 20kg bags into the gaps then we compact the pavers with a piece of carpet under the compactor and then we sweep the same sand in again then we hose the pavers so the sand in between the pavers gets wet and dries to a rubber substance. That is exactly how paving is done…I’ve been a Paver since 1988 and running my successful business for 20 years. Hope this helps
Hey there, it is a product called Pavetight. It's essentially a combination of sand and cement additives. You spread it over the pavers and sweep it in, remove any excess and then lightly water to set. Make sure to thoroughly broom or blow the product before adding the water otherwise it will stick/stain the pavers.
You didn’t describe the whole procedure of how to started and wherever you put at the end to fill the holes around the brick?? What did you use and how much did you charge for a Job like this??
There are already a few videos describing the process. The small holes around the brick, I cut individual pavers/bricks to fit into these holes with a diamond blade on the circular saw.
- Haha... to bad the homeowner didn't power wash the old section of the decking and step before laying out that beautiful paver installation... Pavers look GREAT the deck and step look like shit.
We did eventually get round to blasting and re-staining the deck and it came up great. Unfortunately I can't updated the photo on the video but there are some up on the website.
The first grey layer is gravel, gap 7 to 20mm. But most gravel sizes up to 40mm/ 2 inches diameter is good for the base material that can be compacted. Generally 10cm depth for base but more for vehicles
Very painful to watch. Screeding over and over when not needed, Continually standing on your screeded bed, blocks being laid from the wrong end on nearly every row. Good end result lads but made it look very hard work getting there.
The first grey layer is small Gap 7 (7mm) gravel, if you are using a vehicle or heavy load on paving make sure you use a larger size gravel Gap 40 and up first. As this area is only for foot traffic I decided to start with the Gap 7.
I'm not 2shore on what you are trying to do by going over an over the s screed an sliding th strips.up an down changing the level if i saw you doing that on my jobs you would loose half wagers an you would be shooting th crew lunches for the rest of th month for wasting time
