The part about using the pulley to assure alignment is right to that seal BEFORE tightening down the timing cover bolts. Likely I missed that last time I replaced the seal 2yrs back and now I find the seal to show failure on 1 side as if the pulley is missaligned. I suppose this can also cause premature wear of the pulley surface. Ugh! Hopefully a replacement seal is good enough.
Great how to could have done with this about a year ago when I was cleaning up my engine and replaced that oil seal as it was very old. Thank you again for the great work.
Very nicely presented Keith, the subject matter was very well explained and good learning for those new to the job. I thought the background music was interesting, (reminded me of the space movie “Gravity” for some reason! ) 😊👍🇬🇧
Ahhh the resources available to the yoof of today, eh? I wish youtube tutorials were like this were around 30+ years ago - I had massive issues with my old timing cover back in the day!!!
Now that was a Masterclass in how to fit a timing cover! Totally agree on the fine bead of sealant. Later Mini diffs have no gaskets and use an RTV sealant for a better fit of the final drive bearings. Scania gearbox / bellhousings are the same (but they are BIG). As to that extra bracket I believe it was used later on the SPi but remember the A+ was phased in over a couple of years so there were 'odd' A Series with A+ bits like some later ADO16 1100s had A+ front covers. The A+ covers were all produced with this bracket and the 1275s had an extra oil separator / breather as well and they were found not only in Minis but Metros, Maestros and even the Allegro 3. For example the Maestro 1.3 HLE had an electronic carb and distributor and I believe this bracket was used for the sensor to fire the Lucas ignition Module. Also used on some Metros. Digging deep in the grey matter and notes here so not 100%.
Aha, I thought you might know the answer. I remember those electronic carbs on Maestros, we had a tool in the garage for setting the stepper motor which I think was for the auto choke
@@classicminiworkshop Yes the choke and idle control were 'electronic' and used that sensor to check idle speeds. Metros had them as well. Nice idea but ..... 🙄😂
@@classicminiworkshop Should have added that its the little depression by the bottom of that bracket that causes Duplex gears to 'click'... Introducing it to a hammer seems to sort that out 🤔
Great video! I think i might attempt this on the Cooper engine. I'll kick myself if i don't and then find it's one of the leaking points when it goes back in. 😅
I watched this after I replaced my seal and gasket over the weekend. I now have to strip it down as I used the later gasket but no sealant. I also did not centralise the pulley to the seal. Rubber grease ordered, new seal and gasket plus some sealant and will try again over the weekend. Any tips for when engine is in the car?
Excellent video as always. They are like watching a zoom meeting of your mate working in the garage. And as a mate id say, Kevin... i think your radio is broken. Its making some weird noise..
7:10 i'd knock it with a hammer till the chain is really tight and the tensioner is at its max. The nylon pad would soon find its own tension with accelerated wear lol
Yes i know, i'm 17th tonight but i did watch you on my phone but could not comment, found out its due to not having an App,. I was second to like though. God i'm technically challenged lol
Very informative as usual Keith. Quick question my minis back together and running but I don’t have a horn or indicators? Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
@@classicminiworkshop Damned if you do, damned if you don't I guess mate but not a criticism though :) As a complete novice with my first project in pieces these vids you put up are so helpful.
Found it www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-LOC-5980-100ML-Sealing-Substance-OE-REPLACEMENT-XX123-192D5E/353306856850?epid=26031409895&hash=item5242bacd92:g:C9oAAOSweNBfy0sA
