Hey guys hope you like todays video! Hopefully my built motor will be going back in the car very soon! Be sure to stay tuned! Follow me on social media! Instagram: steven_devey facebook: steven devey
Tightening the pulley bolt the right way is a biiittch. Gotta have a special tool to hold the pulley in place, and the torque to degree it 90 is absolutely insane! What I would do.. put it to 75 ft lbs, then mark the bolt with a paint pen at 12 o clock, then use the impact to get it to 3 o clock.. make sure the the hole is lined up with that hole in the timing cover, otherwise your crank position sensor will be off. Has to be exact
Crank pulley bolt has to be tightened 75 foot pounds and then a further 90 degrees. If it comes loose on you you’ll most likely destroy the engine. Using an impact and hoping for “good luck” is amateur.
Big mistake on that crank pulley bolt sir. I learned that lesson the hard way when a friend of mine used an electric impact gun to tighten my crank bolt. It didn't tighten nearly enough! That is a torque to yield bolt and it's used for a very good reason. It's very easy to do and can be done with the engine in the car if need be.
The weird method your talking about is using a angle torque gauge with a breaker bar ( 1st the brand new crankshaft bolt pn LF01-11-406 ) is to be torqued to 70.9 -76.7 ft/lbs then TWICE to 87 -93 DEGREES this is stretching / pre-loading the bolt that's why your supposed to replace , if you did not do this it's wrong !
DO NOT USE A IMPACT WRENCH ON THE CRABK BOLT FFS. you tighten it to 71 ft lbs then another 90 degrees. watching him blast that bolt in while holding only a cam made me cringe so hard i shit my pants. You litterally put over 200ft lbs of pulsating torque on the peuny timing cover bolt not to mention timing chain/ dry cam journals pressing into a cam that wants to angle, mushrooming the tdc pin and running the risk of breaking the end of the cam off where the timing plate has been. YOU SHOULD HOLD THE CRANK FROM THE OTHER SIDE WITH 2 BOLTS AND A BAR WHERE THE FLYWHEEL BOLTS IN TO JAM IT IF YOU DONT HAVE A FLYWHEEL HOLDER. You didnt mention the crank sensor which is part of the timing prosses. this is a interference motor with NO key ways what so ever so if one of thoes friction washers slip because it was not tightened properly (VERY COMMON) or reuse a old one the valves fall into the pistons taking the whole motor and turbo out. but hey if it worked for other people then who cares amiright or amiright. people who think they need to follow proper instruction or how you put it "some weird method" are morons. i really hate talking to someone like that its disrespectful but this is something someone may follow and potentially ruin there motor due to it.
Sorry to correct you but cams do not go at TDC the piston does and the cams in cylinder 1 better be at the base of the lobe on intake cam and exhausts cam then you install the plate to hold the calls while you install the timing chain, also the cam sprocket should have a dot and the VVT should have a notch and both should be at position 12 o'clock before installing the chain , FYI
On this engine - can you drop the oil pan easily while engine is in the car? It looks like some of the timing cover bolts goes sideways into pan - is this correct? I need to check for rod knock.
If you want to keep the timing cover on, you'll have to slide the transmission over about 0.2 inches to give the oil pan some clearance. Otherwise, it's jammed in place on both sides.
I was told i can damage/crack side cover by holding the crank pulley with the bolt you put through the hole on the pullet to hold it. Maybe a no issue with impact gun
Hi Steven, I have a 2018 Mazda 3 2.0 here in Thailand. It has 71K Kilometers [44,100] miles. My timing chain sprocket is needing replacement, [I can't believe this]. I have had a similar problem before where the car had little power going up semi steep hills, it had to be downshifted [auto] sometimes to create enough force to go up the hill. Mazda repaired this under warranty, now we seem to be here again with a worse problem. it needs to accelerate up to 2500 rpm to shift gears. Is this possibly normal? or is there a solution, the cost of replacement seems high and the damage unusual for a low mileage car, we have changed the oil at 20-25K intervals. Would really be thankful for you quick diagnosis and possible solution. Thank you very much!
Literally been looking for a speed 6 for close to a year now, had an 06 v6 6 speed that my brother completely destroyed when I gave it to him when he was I need, fan of the speed 3s but not wanting one, so hard finding a stock one here in NC, there’s a few but are complete junk and been messed with way to much for me to be comfortable with buying, gonna keep searching a couple states away
Steven Devey never had the opportunity in sitting in a mazdaspeed but man for being my second car and previously owning a chevy tracker It felt like a rocket ship, had so much fun with that car but unfortunately it’s sitting in my yard with so much wrong with it it’s not even worth putting money into, may even pick up another one
Yeah it’s worth it in my opinion but I’ve never really sat behind any other quicker cars, could always keep up though, weird tho all trim levels have 140 on dash but when I bought mine used it has 160 even the forums think I’m lying lol
Good job! Honestly the proper torque procedure on the crank bolt is pretty important especially since yours isn't keyed and you are relying on friction. I hope you change your mind and torque it properly. 75 FT-LBs + 90 degrees is a torque to yield procedure and is probably close to 300ft-lbs on that size bolt. You would be fine with a M18 fuel 1/2" impact, but you probably didn't get close to that value with the gun you used.
I have a question, I can see how to line up the cams, thanks for that helpful information. However, on my engine(which happens to be in a range rover evoke, but it appears to be the exact same engine which I think is a Ford engine) the cam sprockets are not keywayed. Does this mean the cam sprockets can go on any way? If there are alignment marks for the cam sprockets, please tell me what the line-up is for them? Thanks!
Hey mate great vid, I've just finished rebuilding my 08 cx7 2.3 turbo, I noticed the pin on your vvt sprocket was at about 12 o'clock position, I never marked mine and I've set it to 1-2 o'clock but are getting p0012, wanting to know if you ever had any problems, cheers Dave
Hey I do not know that code off the top of my head I don't know if our engines our different in any way, the plate that I put on top is supposed to lock the cams In a specific spot so if you didn't use the plate than the timing could be off, or you could have slipped timing, please let me know any more info you have and I'll try my best to help
Look at it this way, how much money do you have wrapped up into this engine so far? Is it worth throwing all that money away because you didnt torque a bolt? If you had the crank keyed then yeah, no biggie but those washers are the only things keeping your engine from becoming scrap.
Torquing the nut 90 degrees, my digital torque wrench got up to 284 ft lbs. One thing I learned rebuilding mine was every single time you cheap out or half ass something it bites you in the butt.
@@StevenDevey only thing you didn't do was set the chain tension. It's not super critical but dose make a difference. Make sure your vvt is good, I thought mine was and it turned out to be bad so had to change it in the car.
I made the mistake of using an impact to tighten crank pulley on a eco boost today.. 5 miles down the road pulley comes loose and a full day wasted on setting timing once again.
That’s why I make sure to use torque limiting extensions to make sure that the bolt is properly tightened to the foot pounds I need, and then do a 90° turn as per the instructions. Those extensions work magic and theyve been proven to work and tested by people with a torque wrench :)
@@StevenDevey oh i wish mine had that engine :-D but i suppose the 2.2 diesel has a simillar principle used for the engine timing. Btw. I think that engineers who decide that non keyed crankshafts are to be used should be coated with tar and feathers and forced to run through town squares ... it's simply criminal
@@domagojgotic4421 I know how you feel but they end up working pretty well. People don’t like them cause they done believe they will hold but they have held on similar builds as mine up to 700hp
it`s near impossible to tighten the front crank pulley bolt up as specified by Mazda , I nether got mine to the correct 90% and I had a big tube on it and it was lifting the engine out, pluse ste it a good idea to get rid of the the pipe that run`s from the pcv valve to the inlet manifold [block the inlet manifold off] and run the union fitting or remove the ball from the pcv valve and rubber pipe it up so it is open all the time, and run a pipe to atmosphere or a catch tank high up [ THE PCV VALVE IS CAUSE OF MOST MAZDA`S SMOKING ON IDLE ] .ste did you know that there is new vvt sprocket for the Mazda's, it`s been out about 4yr ? .it`s got a stronger pin inside it as the old one use to brake up inside the gear . atb john
GIBBOJ / JOHN hey dude is the new VVT a revision by mazda? I have a brand new oem vvt sprocket that I put on my cam before hand. Is this what you are talking about?
hi ste the set up im using is the std pcv plate with the steel ball and spring took out of the std pcv valve [straight though ] iv packed some stainless steel pan cleaners in the top of the block / pcv plate to act as a baffle to keep oil from getting out , it seem`s a bit extream but the pan cleaner`s can not fall anywear due to tiny gap`s in this area .a run a rubber hose 15mm / 9/32 id [compatible with oil ] from the pcv to a oil catch can / tin / breather filter /atmosphere as heigh up as you can get it [ as if it does blow out oil it will drain back through the pcv , [blow down the pipe to make sure it will vent air ] iv run mine into a homemade catch tank with a breather filter on it , it`s only done 1000ml from the rebuild but no oil in the catch tank as yet ,but a bit of smoke through the breather filter as the piston ring`s have not bedded in yet ? if it does carry on smoking a bit ill run a rubber hose into the airfilter box / hose and loose the breather filter , but it`s not a issue yet . hope this help`s ATB FROM THE UK / JOHN
MS3 VERYTHING I torqued it down with an impact gun but didn’t mark how far I turned the crank bolt. It might have been alright but I ended up torquing it down with the same impact just for longer, 90 degrees to be exact.
i would not because of the stretch and your cam timing could be off a few degrees witch would turn on your engine light P0012 which the VVT would give the pcm wrong info and retard the VVT timing
Hello sir, I’m a mechanic and I’m very interested with your video Is it ok? if I recap your video ,explaination with Thai language and Thai subtitle in my channel to be knowledge for Thai people who’s interested with the content like this.