I'm a total dummy when it comes to cars. I'm none the wiser because my car is totally different to this, but thank you for making it look so easy. It was very enjoyable.
Nice video but even though you labeled what each instrument was, I couldn’t tell what the specific instrument was doing. The camera man should of zoomed in and stayed maybe 10 seconds longer on the individual instrument.
My question is you never covered how you got your base idle according to your timing on the distributor you say you're at X amount of RPMs back it down 100 now you're backing it down 100 by turning the distributor or you just find the highest RPM on the position of the distributor then you back down the carburetor to the appropriate RPM That's what I'm confused of other than that I think everything else is straightforward Just trying to figure out how you got the base idle and distributor referring to a brand new rebuild I have a Chevrolet 235 and I cannot find any viable good useful information on trying to set the ignition timing properly on this motor other than the timing marks but either way there is zero videos of properly tuning and timing a Chevrolet 235 using a timing light and a tachometer but I do believe the vacuum method is better any information or weeds will be a huge help thank you The truck does run good drives fine but is no way for me to know if I got the timing except to its optimate timing
Once I have achieved the best vacuum reading. I look to the Tachometer and turn the distributor in the opposite direction from which I rotated it to get that vacuum reading to drop the RPM by 100. Assume I turned it clockwise to get that reading. To drop the RPM by 100 I turn the distributor counter-clockwise while watching the tachometer.
I find this video a little confusing. To clarify...If the manufacturer suggests for example 38 deg dwell at 500 RPM at 0 deg TDC. Do we start with those specs, then watch the vacuum. Then advance timing to maximum vacuum? Then back off advance again, so the rpms drop by 100. For now the engine rpm could likely be above the factory setting of 500. Leave it for now. Head over the idle A/F mixture screw. Back it out or in until maximum vacuum on the gauge is achieved again. Once set to max vacuum, leave it. Then finally, do we use the throttle linkage set screw to lower the RPM to the 500 as suggested by the factory? It matters not where the actual timing mark flashes at the crank pulley if we were to check it with a timing light? I assume that this method you describe factors-in modern fuel. Which indeed will have a different burn rate than fuel back in 1940 1940 for example?
@@1danny2k It is difficult. Advance to maximum rpm then back off 100. Take for a drive and if you detect pinging at higher rpm, back off another 50. The book on any motor will tell you the "normal" idle rpm. Try to get as close to it as possible.
I'm doing it on a cj3b . So I'll fine tune the timing for max rpm on advance then back off 100 or 150 rpm. Got it. My pulley doesn't have markings left that's the issue. Your techinique is similar to tuning a carb mixture setting
@@1danny2k You can "T" off the PCV port on the intake manifold for intake vacuum. Have you considered this? If you watch my videos of the F-134 you can see my set up.
Hi Rick, where can i buy myself the same remote starter as yours ? and same snap-on gauges ? mint old skool setup for a perfect diagnosis & tune, thanks for sharin'
You'll have to keep an eye on eBay and Craigslist. Sometimes you can get lucky at a Flea Market, Yard or Garage Sale.
5 лет назад
And you are adjusting the distributor without the vacuum advance hooked up correct? After you've done this, have you double checked with a timing light where you were for timing? Thank you.
Just the question i wanted to ask. make all adjustments with vacuum not connected and the port blocked on distributor, then re-connect once set i take it?
hi , was that 100rpm from what? i know when you advance it , the revs go way up , so did you take it 100 from the max point? it wasn't clear ...anyway cheers , i like the old skool approach , keef
The answer to your question is reduce RPM by 100, using the Tachometer, after you have achieved the highest vacuum reading with the distributor. In other words, you watch the vacuum gauge as you adjust the distributor for the highest vacuum. Then turn your attention to the tachometer, turning the distributor to lose 100 RPM. Once done, lock the distributor in place and move to the carburetor. Sorry for the confusion.
what should my vacuum gauge read with a camshaft thats alittle bigger than your stock cam ..i have a 1990 k5 blazer 350 engine it has rebuild with up graded the cam to a howard rattler cam intake lift 225 exhaust 535 duration 227/235 lobe separation 109 centerline 103 i check to see how mush vacuum i were getting and its no where near 19 to 21 of mercury .. the needle is in the red area sitting on 10 where it say late value timing or leak at intake manifold or heat riser my engine has about 480 miles on it.
Dwell in ignition systems refers to the period of time that the coil is turned on. That is, it is the length of time that current flows through the primary winding of the coil. In old points systems, it is the time, in degrees of rotation of the distributor shaft, the points are closed.
Rick Pacholski Ok im not sure if i have points on my 71. Im replacing with a MSD unit with programmable timing curve, but was also curious about vacuum diagnostics. I guess i was trying to find out the ceiling limit of my timing, and if its possible to read with vacuum. I want to avoid pre ignition.
Where's all the plastic and sensors and warning labels? That thing is far too simple. If your goal is to lose money and get depressed then I suggest getting a new car. That way you can let the dealership ream you up the a$$ and get into a circle of paying for things you don't need.
@@scoutoh6 timing light. I adjust it to 40° as it sits at 0° on the dampener . Runs like crap. With any less timing. The gun must be off. . Checked the dampener , & it hasnt shifted .
@@Mcscher I'm sorry. I'm confused. Timing lights typically don't show degrees. For my video, I'm speaking to degrees of Dwell angle in the distributor. A timing light is used for the either the flywheel or crank pulley. From where are you getting 40º?
Allow me to reply to all of your comments so far. You’re welcome. he Dwell/Tachometer has two wires. Ground wire to ground terminal on the battery and the positive wire can be connected to the eternal terminal the distributor or to the (-) terminal on the coil. Vacuum is taken from only the intake manifold. Do not connect to the throttle flange. Disconnect the vacuum lead to the distributor if it is vacuum advance. I wouldn’t attempt any tuneup without these devices.
Thank you very much. I bought a RAC diagnostic instrumnet that has dwell, tach, ohms, volts, and points. It comes with red and black battery clamps. it also has red and black small alligator clips along with a yellow alligator clip. I bought it for 10$. I wonder were the yellow wire goes too.
You only need to ask for clarification. Take note that at the 2:40 mark you will see two yellow clips attached to the input post on the distributor. These are the hot leads for the pair of two-wire Snap-On meters measuring Dwell and RPM. The two black leads connect to a convenient ground.
