all the torque specs are in the Haynes manual you can buy one at autozone for $25.00 they sell em for all makes and models of cars those manuals show you step-by-step instructions for all car repairs they also show you what all the codes mean, just in case your want to use your own diagnostic scan
Everyone on here must be blind because this video was very helpful, the torque specifications button is right below the settings for Year, Make and Model in the left hand corner. Had the very torque spec I needed for my 2009 Ford Focus. Definite thumbs up!
Word of caution on using Timken's info: I just looked up one of the trucks I regularly work on - a '97 Ford F-150 RWD. The SKF info is the exact same as the FSM, but neither one seems right to me, since you go through a several step procedure where the first torque is 30 ft-lbs., loosen it up TWO whole turns, tighten again to 17 - 24 ft-lbs., loosen it 175 degrees (a weird figure), then finally torque to 17 INCH-pounds. This results in way too much end play, so I thought I'd try to find Timken's spec's. Timken's data for the "front axle nut" - the ONLY listing that makes sense, since the others are for the lug nuts (correct) and the hub bolts (also correct), is a wildly INCORRECT 188 - 254 ft-lbs. It's my guess that torque would not just make the wheel immovable, but ruin the bearing. In 50+ years of working on cars/trucks, I've never seen such a strange procedure. In looking at the spec's and the procedure, It's my suspicion that some engineer gave the documents department at Ford the correct figures but they were somehow entered incorrectly, as the first torque looks about right, in my experience, to seat the bearings in the races. But backing it off TWO whole turns is something I'd never done. Usually it was 1/2 turn, and never more than a whole turn, just to loosen it up for the next (and usually final) torque. Next, going to 17 FOOT pounds seems OK, because that was often close to what it took to get somewhere between 0.001 - 0.005" of end play. But backing it off again - by 175 degrees - is a strange figure. Why not 180 degrees, which would be 1 1/2 turns? Then torque to final spec. of 17 INCH-pounds, which leaves the bearing fairly loose and too much end play. The figure of 17 appears three times in the procedure, and that's why I suspect somebody entered the wrong info into the manual, and was perhaps later copied by SKF in their own datasheet for the bearing. It's almost as if somebody was writing it down while talking on the phone and got some parts right and some wrong, and were too embarrassed to admit they goofed it up, so they decided to fill in what they thought they remembered instead of calling back and asking again, just to be sure.Same here with the Timken data. It would be OBVIOUS to anybody who's ever worked on cars that that's WAY too tight. Again, 188 - 254 foot pounds is about TEN TIMES the similar torque value that SKF gives for the second torque, above. So maybe a decimal point was misplaced to the right. But to some data entry clerk who's just out of high school and has never even changed a flat tire, much less changed any wheel bearings, well . . . they wouldn't know that's an unreasonable figure. So somehow that figure gets entered into the database or spreadsheet - and it remains until somebody points it out. And then the documentation department takes years to get around to fixing the mistake.
Hi,i have been trying to find torque settings for front wheel bearing on 1987 Lincoln town car, been trying to access the website but won't load just buffering 😢, thanks Tom
I found it for my 2002 chevy express 3500 cube, 115 foot pounds, after i tighten it to much, at 60 mille, 100km per hour it melt done on the hy way. i drove back home slowly around 30km per hourr
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Which method is the proper Torque procedure ? With tire/wheels installed and vehicle on the ground? (with Load) or can a proper torque be done with vehicle on lift or jack stands, no tire/wheels installed (Without Load or No Load bearing)?
Basically torque specs are for brand new factory nuts and bolts, and in most cases people just reuse old nuts and bolts, then what?? or to use or oil or not? or what if after tightening with a proper handbook torque the bearing gets stuck like there is some resistance? And shouldn't we block somehow the suspension first before tightening the hub nut?
Thank you you just affirmed that I was doing it right but I still keep having during failures like having Preston at Napa high torque them down Minds 174 and within fifty to a hundred miles I have a red-hot bearing and blue do you have any feedback what to look for I sure appreciate it
You have to click on the little ORANGE box that says TORQUE SETTINGS on the left side of the page just below where you choose the vehicle year. Too bad ignorance isn`t painful..
I just got some wheel hubs for a 2006 malibu. Their from China. In the pictures it shows a wheel ring on the face of the wheel hub plate that the front wheel sit on. Mine doesn't have a ring, its flat? Are these Timken?
I don't understand the concept of preloading the wheel bearings with the axle nut torque in domestic and asian cars. European cars don't have this preload, they simply have a small 14mm bolt secured in a bore at the end of the axle shaft - no high torque, no bearing preload. Why do the car makers with axle nut made is so difficult when it can be done so simple ?
I am having one hell of a time finding the torque spect, for the front axle nuts 2019 Nissan leaf , the dealer is bouncing me around, and they are not on your web page, any advice ?
I Pulled Bad Bearings from my 268 K Mile S10 & Timkens but Plated (= Gone & White) Plastic cages Around the Diametrical Roller pattern . looked Like an Oriental Unpronouncable name beside Timken, Though. Any One else?
I suggest making the torque specifications button a little bit BIGGER, so us old farts with tired eyes can find it a little easier. Or use contrasting colors, or something to draw attention to it. Asterisks in the same shade of gray doesn't make it stand out. Obviously a few people have had trouble finding it - me included at first. That's the problem with website programmers nowadays - they think everybody who uses the website knows where such-and-such button would "obviously" be found. I find that kind of thinking leads to user UNfriendliness. And my comment above re clearly WRONG data should be looked at, as well.
NO! The torque specs are NOT "Nice and Tight" especially with bearings. You'll damage the bearings. The nut is only holding the hub on and the bearings in place. If you are doing a job like this you NEED a torque wrench as there are usually at least 2-3 different torque specs in the assembly. The spindle nut is often NOT "nice and tight" or TORQUED down.
I think you're talking about two different types. The old style where you pack inner and outer bearings by hand and then install on the spindle, doesn't get tightened much at all. Then with a front wheel drive type axle nut, it really does have to be "nice and tight" but it's best to get it as close to specified torque as possible.
The Torque specs for your make and model are there. First ensure you go specifically to this site: www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ Enter the year, make, model. Select wheel bearings. The torque specs button is an orange box in the upper left corner of the page.
Nothing. For anyone that came here I called the dealer for my car. If you own this car here it is below 👇🏼 2017 Hyundai Elantra Ft lbs center nut-79-94 Ft lbs Mounting boots- 36-42
@@VideoNOLA Unable to attach an image, but if you go to: www.showmetheparts.com/timken, make sure /timken is in the URL. Enter year, make, model, a button foor torque specs appears in the top left hand corner. Click it. Click okay when the warning message appears and a table of specs appears.
Complete bullshit, despite the fact that I use torque wrenches, even on mudguards, I found that on VW Audi the axle bolt (yes it is a bolt not a nut) has two different spec for two different type of bolts, one with rib one without on the flange, the one with rib is 70Nm+90degrees and the one without is 200Nm+180degrees. This clearly shows that torque spec is not critical in providing the proper bearing preload.
