In the Midwest and Canada code does not allow setting treated lumber in cement. Proper approach would be to fill hole with cement then set a post holder, this keeps the treated lumber from touching cement and essentially keeps it dry. It would last a lifetime.
Aunque le eches aseite yo logos con los postes de un padio ahora tengo que renplasarlos de pudrieron y no están encapsulados se pudrieron dentro del concreto concreto concreto
Exactly! Treated wood is only treated on the exterior. All of the inside is untreated and it is exposed to the elements. A normally treated post will rot and get subterranean termites very quickly.
Yup, this is a mess that some sad sack is paying for. I like the fact that they got the work done a little cheaper by hiring hacks though. Lol They'll still get less than they paid for I'll wager.
Yeah everyone has to learn somewhere. Wood should never touch the concrete, let alone imbedded in it. There needs to be a barrier between the two. Another thing is, you don't pour concrete directly into a dirt hole like that. You use a concrete form tube, you put gravel under it, you fill around it with gravel, and you have the forming sleeve come up above ground level so water never gets to your wood.
@@Aubatron People told me I made that mistake when I put some wooden posts in the ground to hold some spigots for my wife's garden. I encased them in concrete. So far so good. She painted the posts, etc... I did it earlier this summer (2024). I'll see how long they last.
Yeah that is the type of work that looks great the day it’s finished. The homeowner who doesn’t know any better is probably happy to hand them a check. 3yrs later the homeowner is wondering why it rotted away so quickly.
3 years later? I have fence posts set in concrete that still stand strong as hell 5 years later as if brand new still and my mother in law has posts set straight in the ground over 30 years ago that are just now rotting away one by one.
3 years? I built a 200 feet of fence for my Mom in 1984. She still lives in the house and and the fence is still standing. I started by brushing on all the fence posts an extra 2 coats of preservative on the lower 4 feet area. I embedded the posts in concrete but not like that. True these will rot. The problem is water will get around the edges and then the concrete will hold the post as in a cup of water. What I did was dig about a 4 foot hole. I then put a big fieldstone in the bottom of each. And pounded it down with the post to set it. Then I put in 6" of washed 1" gravel and used the post to pack it a bit. Then I set up my post. Then around the bottom of the post I poured another 6" of gravel around the bottom. Then I poured in my concrete stopping about 2" believe grade. Then I let it set up a bit and gave the concrete about a 30 degree slope so any water would flow off and not cup and hold water around where the post exits the concrete. Then I let dry built fence and leveled around the post with final landscaping so you can't see the concrete. When water gets near the post it easily sloughs off. The gravel at the bottom acts as a dry well to draw any water and release it to the surrounding ground. Never never embed the post right into the concrete. Water that gets around the post has nowhere to go. My grandfather built his fence this way and was replacing posts 10 years later.
The hire The guys without the salesman with the logo trucks who look and sound like they know what they’re talking about. Then they talk down on the guy who only works on big construction sites so he’s an expert but he has his personal vehicle so they assume he’s the jackleg and opt to pay more to have it done wrong.
i don't understand why people concrete the wood into the ground, it rotts after 10-15 years and because you will be 10-15 years older you will find the repair harder to do. i think you should use concrete post on the bottom and then bolt the wooden post to it. any future repairs are a few bolts and nails or screws depending how you fastened the panels.
It’s not necessarily that… Wood swells and gets bigger when it wet from being fresh like that. So you put it in concrete and it will take the water out of the concrete and it might get bigger. Now what happens when the cement and wood drys out? You have a gap and a decent sized one at that.
@@jomarcruz659 bro i think it is labour to dig out a rotten post, this is the whole point you should use a concrete post at the bottom. if you don't like seeing the concrete then make a custom fence and build it around the concrete post to hide it. honestly i have dug out many posts and the more i get older the more you feel it the next day, if you are doing your own fence then i suggest you be wise and use concrete posts at the bottom, you will thank yourself in 10-15 years time when the job isn't so easy and then need to call in a fencing firm to do it. the fencing firms use wooden posts so they have a possible job in 10-15 years 😉. if you are doing your parents fence then i really suggest you use concrete posts because you know 100% you will be doing it again if/when they need it doing, work smart not hard 😉
This guy is a genius. He figured out that if he buys one bag of concrete, takes a few pieces of scrap lumber and makes a video of what not to do and labels it Tips, he gets way more comments and views and makes that you tube money.
Никогда не забетонируйте, не закапывайте дерево, дерево накапливает влагу в себя и сгниет, для этого есть металл и бетон, и обязательно их стоит покрасить и гидроизолировать
I'm near Chicago and you gotta go 36" ~ 48" deep with a footer or the freeze will break it and heave it. If this deck is gonna be so close to the ground just make the concrete column be above ground (no posts), level them to each other, add the j-bolt and use the metal post base brackets and attach directly to the 2x12's joists. everything accessible/replaceable forever. This post/hole was not that deep, so i imagine it's down south somewhere, def old school method. Bought my house that had above ground pool, the deck was done like this all around it, and every 4x4 was rotten at ground level and chunks of cracked cement pushed out of the ground (amateur's hour).
Every fence in California is built this way. Every fence in California fails in 10-15 years, and it hardly ever rains here. Keeps the business churning. It’s now $15-20k to replace a fence around a standard surburbia home. They know what they’re doin. Planned obsolescence is a powerful tool. I mean look at the auto industry or kitchen appliance industry- they’re pros at it
@@rogerdixon1069no.. The people doing this are naturalized or un naturalized citizens from spanish speaking countries. I work in the trades and i see stuff like this all the time. Lack of quality work, proper building techniques and methods. These people either don't care or just don't know enough to care. Unfortunately they're the ones building this country now and it's a shame. Every new construction building i'm in the walls are out of plumb, walls deviate inches over 10s of feet. Skim coat on drywall shows through paint, nothing they do is ever done correctly.
@ghostrider433 that's bs for sure. Not every Spanish speaking person does shitty quality work. I'm in the trades myself and I've came across non Spanish speaking people that are lazy and also do bad quality work. You can't categorize a certain class of people and assume they're all the same way. Unless you're racist towards them. I know some really good craftsmen that are both Latino and white. Ultimately it's not about race my guy
@@renecruz-sanchez6040 more often than not it's the same people doing the same things, they don't speak this country's primary language so you can't exactly coordinate with them which is important on jobs. It's all about the area you live in. I'm not racist, it's just the kind of cheap labor i see undercutting folks who actually run a good operation where i am. I was just on a 10m hotel job and the finish is terrible. The workers tiling the floors and bathrooms were working slow, drywall guys were blasting hispanic music and yelling every single day, enough to drive you crazy, all while doing a terrible compounding job, and they would start putting up sheetrock in places which weren't ready for it. The ADA bathrooms had to be reframed because of code ignorance. Roofing job was done poorly. It's the same things being done by the same people. Here you have an entire channel reinforcing what i see.
@ghostrider433 sounds like you just have a problem with said type of people. In the states of California, Arizona, new Mexico, and Texas the primarily language is Spanish. Before the US started a war and gained the land it was a part of Mexico. I've seen excavation companies ran by "red blooded Americans" that do a really shitty job over and over. Grades are never right there not on the job site when needed. And nothing is never prepped. Maybe you should learn Spanish to talk to them guys then 🤣
Pressure treated wood, any cut or notch is required to be sealed. End grain will absorb the water- bottom of the pile where post sits on should have 100 mm of metal drainage / scoria. I prefer metal brackets though.
work done by an amateur, I will explain why:-1 those wooden pillars will absorb moisture and expand, a process followed by the drying of the wooden material and will contract allowing water to penetrate.-2 the material used is from resinous species (fir , spruce or pine). these species rot very easily.-3 if this technique is used, it is absolutely mandatory that the wood be waterproofed as well as possible and treated against rotting.-4 some steel elements are fixed in the concrete foundation and in these steel elements are mounted the wood, at least 3 cm. above the concrete in such a way that the wood comes into contact as little or not at all with the water resulting from the precipitation. post scritum I wrote this text in Romanian and used the automatic translation, please forgive my grammatical mistakes.
Never put treated post's in concrete! Supposed to place steel fasteners plating in concrete and then place treated post's on top of the steel plating to keep ground moisture away from the treated post's!
@@mavrosyvannah Retaining wall would require posts directly embedded in the ground and encased with concrete. Just like you would do with privacy fences. Brackets would never be used for a retaining wall.
Soooo a deck that’s 12” off the ground can’t have wood posts in concrete yet a fence or retaining wall can? Why? Wouldn’t a failed retaining wall will be more catastrophic than a failed deck post that’s only 12” tall?
Bỏ gỗ vào giữa để làm đế trụ thì nó sẽ gặp vấn đề về thời gian,trụ móng nhà là rất quan trọng vì vậy bạn nên làm bằng kết cấu bê tông sẽ vững chắc bền lâu.tôi vẫn dành cho bạn 1 lời khen về ngôi nhà rất đẹp ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Right but in this case is a good move. Cement isolate the wood from biological eaters, the wood also is treated so it can tolerate moisture for a little while the cement dries.
Another tip. Cement should go down at least 4 feet to be below the frost line. Otherwise the ground freezing and thawing will push those footings around and eventually your deck isn’t level anymore.
@@fernando9175Concrete is not waterproof. This should be considered ground contact and will fail in a few years except in the far north where the ground remains frozen for many months.
It's generally accepted that your PT is better on a galvanized bracket like a Simpson Strong-Tie. And this is coming from a guy with 9 garden fence posts in cement boots in his backyard: your posts will last longer and age better on a bracket and not encased in cement. @@fernando9175
I'm in the Netherlands and we have an azobe hardwood from Africa that's bloody rock hard stuff. You can put that easily in the ground without it starting to rot for 20-25 years. When embedded in concrete it will go even longer. I used 5x5 inch poles for our fence. It doesn't budge, even in the strongest storms. But I agree, with most comments here, this doesn't look look quite right. I 'd at least get that soil away from the underside of the deck and replace it with crushed stone.
@@granitesevan6243 😂 😂 😂 A wealthy tax haven?!? Was that a late night shot in the dark? No, hardly a wealthy tax haven here, it's just that the government uses tax dollars for basic stuff like infrastructure and health care here,
These guys work quick and i respect that but i totally agree, wet set posts into concrete up north is a big nono. Why are we building like this still people, you know we die closer to 70-80 years old now a days, not a good feeling outliving your building craftsmanship...
@@vitaliyshvets1073 дерево в бетоне начинает гнить. Идёт дождь или перепад температур, дерево набирает в себя влаги и не сохнет, так как находится внутри бетона
Todo bien el trabajo, pero si la madera no tiene ninguna pintura protectora, o algun aislante contra el agua y la humedad, esa madera se va a empezar a pudrir rapidamente, yo hubiese pintado con brea los palos antes de fijarlos al suelo.
Las casas de maderas deben descansar en pilotes o columnas de hormigón a una altura mínima de 60cms por menos , a menos que el arquitecto especifique otro tipo de diseño o altura..así como estás haciendo esta construcción no durará mucho porq las termitas y la humedad se harán cargo..por lo general la casa debe descansar en una estructura más fuerte ya q las piezas de 2x6 puls no resistirán ..curarte en salud primero amigo y es una crítica constructiva..🇵🇦🇵🇦
Looks good, except concrete and treated wood, doesn't get along. Put a coat of roofing tar around the post but leave the bottom exposed. That will protect the post and the moisture that does gets in finds its way out.
That was almost a good idea. Are you familiar with the term "wick"? The post will still draw in moisture from the untreated end. If you are going to tar, you might as well get it all. Personally, with treated lumber, I don't bother.
I have read a ton of comments mentioning not putting wood in concrete bc of moisture leading to rot.. I tend to believe them regarding them all probably having heard that somewhere prior, but what I DO KNOW is that concrete isn't completely impervious firstly, and also it has been studied and presented- the fact of how boat docks, piers, etc, don't rot even tho they are straight up submerged in damn water. The science says its the wetting then drying over and over that leads to the failure and that if wood remains wet, it is beneficial. So Im truly curious where the science changes and leads to codes being set to forbid wood in concrete. Keeping in mind about the concrete being pervious overall, and the wood people pulling out of rivers that have been soaking for 200 years then building shit with it? Seriously though I'm just pondering on this one. No adversarial talk
I would have put foundation tar on any wood underground with a strong plastic trash bag wrapped around tarred area then set in cement. Learned it from the Best Building Inspector I ever worked with over 36 yrs ago. All our posts set back then are still just as strong today.. Thank you Guy Sawyer Plaistow NH my friend. I learned many tips of the trade from him. God Bless 🙏 you and your family.
Sadly, contractors are not allowed to do this anymore (in NH, anyway). Thank the EPA. Oddly enough, homeowners can though. Back in my fencing days, we would recommend customers tar and bag their posts before we showed up to install them. It's not illegal to install them, but we couldn't legally offer it as a service.
We used to wrap RO,'s and corners for some reason in the 80's. Turned out to be a horrible idea. Held the moister and resulted in a horrible amount of Ron. This is just wrong on so many levels.
Bro, this must be somewhere on a 10000 acre farm directly in the middle where no code inspector would ever see, or any homeowner would expect it to last.
I did that with a few wooden fence gate posts on my property in Florida. Lots of rain, humidity and bugs. Works the best. Pressure treated posts, then seal them with water proofing and then a coat of roof asphalt tar. Any part that is below ground. Still holding up after several years.
You mean the bolt holes and thus bolts should not be on the same plumb line but off center of each other? I would think that would be a good idea regardless of your embedded in concrete clarification
I'm not a fan of posts being buried in concrete. Use a galvanized metal pad bolted to an anchor buried in the concrete. The post gets attached to the pad which allows clearance with the ground so the post doesn't wick water and dries out more effectively when it gets wet. Even preserved posts rot eventually, especially with the new, less effective preservative used today. Anchoring the posts this way adds to their usable life and allows for the posts to be more easily replaced. IMHO.
I built 200 feet of fence for my Mom in 1984. She still lives in the house and and the fence is still standing. I started by brushing on all the fence posts an extra 2 coats of preservative on the lower 4 feet area. I embedded the posts in concrete but not like that. True these will rot. The problem is water will get around the edges and then the concrete will hold the post as in a cup of water. What I did was dig about a 4 foot hole. I then put a big fieldstone in the bottom of each. And pounded it down with the post to set it. Then I put in 6" of washed 1" gravel and used the post to pack it a bit. Then I set up my post. Then around the bottom of the post I poured another 6" of gravel around the bottom. Then I poured in my concrete stopping about 2" believe grade. Then I let it set up a bit and gave the concrete about a 30 degree slope so any water would flow off and not cup and hold water around where the post exits the concrete. Then I let dry built fence and leveled around the post with final landscaping so you can't see the concrete. When water gets near the post it easily sloughs off. The gravel at the bottom acts as a dry well to draw any water and release it to the surrounding ground. Never never embed the post right into the concrete. Water that gets around the post has nowhere to go. My grandfather built his fence this way and was replacing posts 10 years later.
@gregkeeyako from the factory in the wood is what saved it! Was arsenic I have 80s wood still good and new shit rotted in 5-7 years after they changed in mid 2000s from arsenic.
Old school method is to drill 1/2" hole with a 1' or longer bit. Drill at an angle as far down as possible but not coming out the opposite side, then get a piece of wood rod to make a cap, fill the hole with motor oil, then put the cap in the hole. The oil will absorb and keep the post from rotting, you just add oil periodically.
For anyone watching this: Putting a post in concrete will cause Rot. What happens is, after the concrete solidifies the wood will expand and contract due to weather. This will cause moisture to become trapped creating a constant saturated post. CCA treated posts (in ground contact) carry a 60-year warranty but they will VOID this warranty if the post is incased in concrete. Using a wet-set anchor bracket would provide longevity for the posts and your structure.
I would prefer to use metal mounts instead of putting the wood into the concreate however, I also believe that if you use pressure treated wood with a protective coating application in addition to ensuring sloping the ground material away from the wood so it doesnt rot as fast, this could also be doable. Its best to check with your building codes first to ensure this is authorized to do.
Actually, the 2018 IRC still allows pressure treated posts rated for ground contact to be buried in concrete. Not what I would call best practices, but still code. Now I believe many localities have modified this section of the code to ban it.
This is all wrong sad thing is this company Diaz construction thinks they’re doing it right😂 there providing this kind of work to clients and they’re paying for it 😢
Not to code. You can't put wood in concrete. Wood is bolted and strapped to footings not burried in concrete in the ground. Wood under ground even in concrete will absorb water, expand, and rot. Not good. It would be better to just throw it on some blocks so it can be fixed again later witout having to tear that concrete out.
@@israelperez219 You are suppose to pour concrete into the dirt, add metal brackets before the concrete drys, then attach the wood to the metal brackets above the soil line. If you put wood below the soil it just rots, and extremely fast.
@@commoncents9732 .. Ok but he thought a foot of the post into the ground for stability..lm not the person doing it but had someone do it. I have seen posts done this way and was told that's why we have post hole diggers.. that being said is maybe Why I have seen privacy fences blown over during high winds.
@@israelperez219 If you pour the concrete deep enough into the soil (minimum 36 inches in most states for inspections) and buy the correct brackets for building a deck (and to support the weight of it) then you don't need to worry about stability because its accounted for. The brackets secure to the wood beams from the bottom and all 4 sides. I understand you may think a deck is more stable if you bury 12 inches of the large support beams but even after just 1 rain storm the moisture builds up between the concrete (very pourous) and wood, which then begins to rot the wood. Once the wood begins to rot it is no longer a safe structure and can fail due to a storm or for no reason at all. It should be common sense that wood should never go into soil or into concrete but some people truly lack basic common sense.
Nice idea in general, but the whole thing is below grade, in a little trench. It will all rot away in a few years even if that wood is rated for ground contact. Keep the wood above water and soil and let the sun kill the microbes that rot wood.
Never put wood in concrete, put a saddle to carry the load and prevent moisture from the concrete to imbed the wood, unless you're building a fence, you have no way around to have it anchored
Everything looks good, except one very important step. You should always treat your cut ends on treated lumber. This will help protect the lumber from rot, and insects. For the same reasons you use treated lumber in the first place.
I have wood posts set in concrete for 50 years, no rot. Then I have other post set in concrete rotted out in 10 years. Some contractors know their stuff and some don't.
Maybe nobody knows and it's just luck. If there is a slope on the concrete to move water away from post, that might work a little. I don't have much hope for these posts.
@@fungames24 me neither, the concrete is below the ground level too. And maybe another factor is if you stick em all the way through the concrete into the ground beneath. But still it's stupid. Just get some metal mounts and stick posts in them.
@@eh6971Metal Mounts can and do fail as well for the same reasons. The Real Decision is based on "What am I building?" If you want to get Pedantic, why not just go full Trex for it? The only issues here is obviously not pressure treated 4x4s and that this is likely an illegitimate contractor.
Wood won't rot in the ground when there's always moisture present only if it dries gets wet dries gets wet and subjected to the outside elements. If the post is in concrete or the concrete is pourd around it the concrete will act as a sleeve and the post will slip through it especially if there is no concrete on the bottom.i live here in central NYS the Mohawk vally so My frost line here is 48" I know about freezing and frost we haven't had any real frost or ground freeze in some yrs.now but besides that been building decks since treated lumber has been out. I use to just put a treated block just below grade set my post on it never moves that way If the ground freezes and heaves the ground the post will lift with the frost and then go back down when it thaws problem is it's not anchored to the ground. Now I put the post in just like a pole barn post 48"in the ground will never move. Now here If you put the post 48"in the ground it's considered free standing and you have to put post's against the house also and do not anchor it to the house. If the post is at ground level with 48"of concrete you have to anchor the post to the concrete and anchor it to the house in case of lateral movement.if the deck is overhead the posts have to be 48"in the ground and anchored to the house because of lateral movement this is one reason why decks fall down with a lot of people on it there becomes lateral movement
People are so ignorant. Be commenting in here like they know and none of them ever even built a deck or any structure for that matter. Those posts will last there for 50 years easy. No, that pressure treated, wood which is probably >75% moisture when built, will not expand, it is only going to lose moisture from the day it was installed. Not all climates are the same, not all codes are the same.
It's hilarious that all these people that don't even know are right lol. Any, and I mean any Carpenter worth his salt knows you don't just bury wood in concrete. If you're dumb enough to take the time to advertise to as many people as possible just how dumb you are, yep you're still dumb
I used the concrete piers with 3/4 top threaded J bolt buried 18 in. Connect to hot dip galvanized Simpson Strong Tie 2 in base cleat with vertical straps on each side with predrilled holes for 3 bolts and fender washers, I believe in Simpson strong ties to put wood together everywhere.
I'll say this one time when wood is in continuous standing water it doesn't rot how do you think Piers stay up wood posts submerged in water they will never rot. It's only when the wood gets wet then dries gets wet then dries
I live in Las Vegas Nevada. Whether in here is very hot and dry.Normally treated wood buried in soil it could last 30+ years, on dry or semi dry climate. Covered with concrete it could last 50+ years in here.
I don't know much about construction but I think it is wrong to put wood directly into concrete unless the wood has some specialized coating or impregnation
@@jjo5375, There is nothing on this 'project' that is done correctly. It will all fail and we know it. It's essentially some expensive wood thrown in a mud hole. You see, the entire deck is below grade. You have tempers thrown into a hole with some cement instead of supporting the deck on a clip with pilings. Huge mistake. This deck and all this nice wood will only get 20% of its life because these people don't know how to build.
@@cliffpalermo, Yeah you're exactly right that whole space, and especially the footing locations underneath, is gonna/ must already be to be a muddy disgusting mess.
Any place that was cut should’ve been retreated and a vapor barrier at bottom. Plus they use Hemlock or a type of soft wood that will take the treatment but really won’t last as they say. Can’t use Doug-Fir lumber for treating because it’s to hard and won’t take the penetration of chemicals. So years down the line all will have to be replaced.
@@caseyc4516 That is not true. I have been doing pest control for 30 years and that’s exactly where they rock. Soil holds moisture and also that’s where termites are.
Depends on the area, but usually a very long time. I had some burried in the ground in a wet area. Not even pressure treated. Dug it out years later. It was dirty, but that was pretty much it. However, the one above the ground looked weathered fast
There are different grades of treated lumber. The only grade that is approved for direct contact with soil, or to be embedded in concrete, is called black treated lumber. All of the other treated lumber‘s are only treated on the exterior. When you stand them upright, all of the inside is exposed to water and subterranean termites. A regularly treated post will not last in the situation.
This Diaz dude is a an absolute nincompoop. I have no idea why he posts this kind of shit publicly on the internet like, "Hey guys, look at this awesome thing I did!" when all he actually did was create a delayed problem. @@lobitome
No, there's no reason to put wood in concrete anymore. Pour your concrete and put a clip on top. Your wood goes on top of the clip and is isolated from the damp concrete. It's even easier to do it right.
Yes that method will work. in cases your pouring post u don't use that method . Tar to concrete . Many ways to do certain things I seen decks held up over 40 years .
No kidding so the entire deck will be scrapped when one post rots out, which will happen looking at that grade. Seeing his drywall videos made me legit want to get some work done around my house, seeing this is why I’ll keep doing most of my home improvements
The concrete( can) crack when the wood absorb moisture and swell especially if the wood is big in size in comparison to the concrete volume, alternatively Get loose if the wood dry up more than it was concreted. The wood may also rot depending on how Treated/ resistant to rot it is. And If the costrucktion allow water to drain out of the pocket formed by The wood . I have tough about how yo could concrete wood poat into th ground And Aviod the cracking/ rot risk , maybe You could cut slits in the wood and seal dose,so the concrete won't fill them , The slits may then take upp expansion if the wood swells regarding the rot problem :make sure water can drain out in the bottom of the" wood hole" . If the wood rot but the concrete is fine you could probably pull the bad wood out and replace it . The poles concreted into the ground Will be initially be very stable even if it is only one long pole ,when using steel Material to connect the same pole to the concrete , you often have to use A lot to get the same stability , sturdy long Flat iron flanges ,one at each side of the pole /more than one fastener per flange; to prevent excessive flexing Of the pole in any direction. The long time durability of the build talks for the" metal way " doe.
I am not an expert on anything, but I have never lost control of deck support with CMUs with adjustable saddles. I have become averse to any ground contact with even PT lumber I despise half joints, cut stringers and unflashed ledgers. Always use the Real McCoy when it comes to joist tapes and flashing anywhere water can sit perpendicular to the rain.
Pressure-treated lumber is not supposed to be set inside concrete you supposed to sleeve it with a aluminum flashing or some type of sleeve the chemicals in the lumber will deteriorate the concrete
That post will last 3 years, if you’re lucky. Once again we see the poor technique employed by this company. Wood should never be buried in the ground and surrounding by concrete. It is a recipe for failure.
Idk why we have people crying about putting timber in concrete. The concrete will absorb the moisture in it and itl last 30 years depending on the climate. Nothing lasts forever, timber will rot eventually, metal will oxidise and rust. Floorboards will pop out old pipes will burst. Thats just how it is. If you can do better, then do it. No one cares just watch the damn video and get on with your petty life.
Everyone comments on the wood being in concrete, but what about the rest of the wood being below grade? That will rot long before the wood in the concrete.
It all depends on the type and level of treatment to the post and it should not be cut where it goes into concrete. How else can wooden piles be used in marine wharf’s etc. Been building retaining walls with poles embedded in concrete for many many years. No issue as long as correct level of treatment used. Also put some drainage stones at bottom of hole.
Wielange soll das halten?? Das Holz wird in einigen Jahren im Boden verrotten. Der richtige Werdegang wäre: - ca. 60 cm tiefes Loch Buddeln - 20 cm Splitt oder Kies rein - Fundament gießen - Balkenschuh rein (mindestens 5 cm aus den Fussboden ragen lassen) Fertig!!! Frostsicher montiert...
Отличный способ! И цель достигнута и дешево и быстро и на тот срок, на который нужно. Всё правильно сделал. Я бы песочницу для ребенка на 2 года тоже таким способом сделал. И через 2 года проще демонтировать. Столбы сами сгниют, а останое распилил и сжёг. Отличная идея)
The problem with putting wood into concrete us it rots the wood within 6 yrs you will be falling off the deck. Use solid concrete place a bolt on center then put 4 in metal bracket place ur wood in bracket no rotting issues
