Thanks for the great video and taking us along. This is a real machinist video and is rare on RU-vid. This is the part of RU-vid I can't believe is free, educational and entertaining can't wait for the next video. Thanks again!!
I loved this video. I can't wait for the follow up ones. I'm 50 years old and my son is 12, we love learning together from every one of your videos. Thank You. On a side note: who in their right mind would give this video a thumbs down? Some people in life are just so unhappy.
another great video -- THANK YOU for the very tiny details. they are not boring, they are the rare, priceless gems which refine our thinking. and thanks to those very details over the past few years, you helped us play a vinyl record in near-space for the very first time.
As always, Mr Pete has enlightened many of us yet again. Look at the responses below and see how many have already viewed yet another "marvel" by the "master"; and it was put on RU-vid just today. Wow. We luv ya Pete. Keep up the good work. 'Can't wait to see the next video of your Jesus given gift. that will surely dazzle us again! You be "da man" Pete .Bless you dear person.
Lovely project, also delightful how you compare & contrast models over time & the move to function over form. Very busy myself, but when I do have time I love to look at what you do as it inspires me to try to do things beyond my experience level. Thank you for all you teach!
Mr. Pete, My wife and I recently hosted two friends from Denmark for five days. While in the U.S. they also traveled south all the way to Florida. Being interested in Veteran affair the male guest purchased an impressive commemorative knife. It was quite a large thing for a pocket knife and had US patriotic images inscribed or etched into it. He very proudly presented it to me and stated it was “Made in the USA” which was important to him. As I looked at the knife, admiring the etching, checking it’s sharpness, (it wasn’t) I happened to see that seemingly ever present word in very small capital letters near the base of the blade. I didn’t have the heart to tell him where the knife was made. He is surely going to be disappointed when he discovers it. I strive to avoid making purchases made in that country but it’s becoming ever more difficult. Hopefully the present trade negotiations will alleviate that somewhat but I won’t hold my breath.
I liked hearing you talk about the stresses in metal. I was the only one in my shop that seemed to know anything about it. I was constantly frustrated when we would have to make parts that were long enough to bend and would be machined on all sides. They would always order CRS. When I talked about stress, it was like I was talking mumbo jumbo. I finally got them to order HRS for a repeat job we had done before. The results spoke for itself. I'm glad to say my shop is now on the path to understanding stress. In a lot of jobs now, it's standard to stress relieve the material before we even start. Straightening parts and machining bend and twist out of it is so frustrating and time-consuming. I also wanted to mention you were lucky your cut spread apart. I've seen them go the other way and pinch the blade. You would have to drive drifts into the cut to spread the material back out to free up the blade.
It's amazing what you can find in a lump of steel, I know all will go well in a craftsman hands, looking forward to the next instalment, happy milling.
I like the newer style "plain" compounds better because you have a flat surface to place dial indicators. My Logan used to drive me crazy because there was no flat surface anywhere for a dial indicator. The "styled" compounds look more elegant, but flat is much more functional. Excellent project! Thank you!
I think it would make an interesting project to mill the broken compound and make a new T-slot in addition to making a new top. I really enjoy your presentations.
A Fantastic subject and a very practical one, because many lathes are put out of service by compounds crashing into a spinning chuck. This brings to light common issues faced by machinists (not the least of which is the stress in the steel). This also shows how requirements-driven machining rather than machining for aesthetics changes how a part is manufactured. If things don't go to plan, the original compound can still be repaired using fitted steel plates over the old T-Slot with counter sunk/counter bored fasteners holding the plates down.
Thank you very much Mr. Pete, for all your instructional videos! Thanks to you I just completed making a new compound slide for my Clausing 5914 and it turned out beautifully!
Thrilled to see you making something again! Love the projects. Please show at least some of the setup and machining, too. I do like to see the machines at work in your skilled hands. It doesn't get old and it doesn't circumvent your paid courses, either--on the contrary, it's good continued promotion for them.
I built my replacement compound upper and lower very similarly, but with an exception, I omitted the T-slot and drilled+threaded a single hole for a threaded stud to mount the tool post assembly.
Same thing happened to my Father in-law that taught industrial arts at Campion Academy Loveland Colorado, deleted his department for Computer Science and left him without a job. BTW Love the Videos!
Would that be a Colchester Bantam....I have one too, vintage 1920/30, brought it with me to OZ from UK in 1981. it had that funny block of metal they called a tool post with a slot and a hole in the side and a conical base to adjust the tool height.
Great video and very interesting. The flat square shape will be a lot better surface to place a dial indicator on than the round stuff you had before. It may have been good looking to the customer but he had not yet tried to mount a magnetic base on it and not have it rock around. Keep on keeping on.
Lyle, from the stand point of warping forces, T - Slot first, then Dovetail last to keep it straight. I believe you know this, you're just testing us. Nice vid, Cliff
I bought the Atlas version of this lathe. The compound was broken and I was able to find one on Ebay, it was expensive! However I am not real happy with the design and am seriously considering build one that is a little beefier. Thank you for the video.
Great project TC , I am going to enjoy this project. I may try my hand at this some day, I have an Asian lathe 12X36 with a tapped hole to mount the tool holder, and would prefer the tee slot design. Now I just have to decide on the option of a new build or a modification.,Cheers!
good video brings back memories ...on screw machines the steel plate insert is common..guys putting cheater bar over wrench ....plate holds up well...thanks for video
It would be worth putting that block through a heat cycle to stress relieve it before making a precision slide out of it. And twisting or warping going to manifest itself in a slide with uneven movement. I made one for one of my old lathes on my shaping machine,made a nice job of it and was a delight to use. The dovetail was then hand scraped to get the perfect fit. Have you made a video on hand scraping a way to get optimism fit?
I need to build one myself. It is going to be my lathe's grinding attachment all in one with the compound. So I looked for a Tubalcain video on how to cut a dovetail accurately and ta-dah. The issue here is that I have to wait for the next video because this one was published …guess when? today. Man that's a cliffhanger.
Holly Molly they really had a number on that poor CR. I've seen myself a CR fixed via lobbing off the whole broken tooth?? (not sure how that's named), but in that particular case, the CR was slightly beefier and the repair grafted in to the material with a fish tail cut along the length of the compound rest. I doubt this is possible here, still, i found that repair in particular to be very tasteful and ingenious. Looked pretty too, because of the excellently executed cuts. So there's more than one way to skin the cat. :)
Excellent Mr. Pete! I love all your vids and am a regular subscriber since the beginning, however these kinds of projects are my absolute favorites! Can't wait for the next one! I was surprised just how much stress was in the CRS. Could you heat this in your furnace until red then let it cool slowly to normalize before machining, or would that make much of a difference? Does HRS have the same problem or is that only an issue due to the scale on your cutters?All the best,Bob in Tacoma
Very nicely done. The problem using mild (usually A-36, similar to 12/14) steel against cast iron is that at some point, the steel will tear where they meet. On the other hard, hardened steel against CI make an excellent bearing. A number of old machines do use hardened steel against CI, including for spindles. SPI does make some very good tooling. Remember that Mitutoyo, Starrett and others make tools in China. Really, there’s nothing wrong with Chinese tools.
Interesting project. Looking forward to the rest. I'm thinking I may have to make one specific to mount a tool post grinder I got that will not work to well with the normal compound on my Atlas 10".
Would the internal stress be relieved better if maybe .020 stock was left on all sides and the trenches for the dovetail, machine screw and t slot all rough milled out before beginning the finishing steps? It will be interesting to see how the stress affects the finished outside demensions. This is an interesting project. I have a 1930'strong model Sheldon 9" lathe. I am saving to buy a milling machine.
I do believe that Mr. P. said 12L14. That is leaded steel and machines easily, but it can't be welded and is VERY rust prone. I hope this project ends well. I strongly favor repair, instead of throw away. Eli D.
Mr. Pete, would it serve to braze on cast iron material and machine to shape? Keith Fenner showed how to do that. Heating in wood stove to burn off oils and proceed with brazing while preheated and subsequently slowly cooled under a blanket.
Thanks for the Video Lyle. Teacher why was it so important to mill everything to original size? Would it not have been better to have it a little thicker - say 1" and a little wider and longer? I would have thought the only serious sizes would be the Tool Post area and the dovetail. Thanks again Rod
Always enjoy your videos, but man, I was hoping to actually see some of the milling. Maybe you'll share some machine time with us in the remaining segments.
I would do the T-slot first. in case that would cause a slight bow that could change the flatness of the dovetail, if it were already milled. If it were to cup along the length and the t-slot is already there, it's no big deal.
Hi mr Pete that's a good project I made the new compound on my lathe from a price of cast iron I did the dove tail on the shaper . Though then again i don't have a mill as good as you . How will you do the dove tail ?
Before you started to chew on it take it to a heat treat place and have it normalized NOT stress relieved. Normalizing aligns the stresses not eliminates them. A piece1018/1020 would need to be used as the temperature of normalizing would leach the lead out of 12L14. If you want to use cast iron; you could get a piece of Dura-Bar.
Cold rolled steel and heavy removal normally leads to heavy distortions, probably some stress relief would be in order on a blank slightly larger in order to be able to reset it square after.... To be continued...
Hum... I would heat it more in the 1100 to 1200 deg F for at least one hour up to 2 hours and let it cool in the oven overnight... If not protected from air it will get a scale on the surface, not a problem if you leave more material on the blank, mr. Peterson will have to protect it from air or maybe have to think about another blank... :(
one of my tricks is to put it in the wood burning stove then build a fire keep it going all evening then make certain its buried in the ashes and let the fire burn out and waite tell every thing is cool next day or so normal works good
every time I've done it the metal is glowing so temp is defiantly up there may the next morning its still to hot to hold the coals burning out drops the temp very slowly (old blacksmith trick to normalize.) this is something you can do is a fire pit also very attainable to most people.
Just for your information.....that the caliper doesn't zero at the top is a common fault with ALL dial calipers no matter who makes them. To get the needle to move to the top you need a narrow piece of brass shim stock about .010" thick, same width as the rack, to slip into the rack and under the small gear then move the slider a bit until it zeros at the top.....takes a couple of goes but it works. A couple of MM off to one side is not a problem. The problem is you just can't keep small dirt out of the rack and this will cause the small gear that meshes with it to hop over the teeth. It's not a design fault it's a fact of life. BTW…..on the desirability stage....I would put a dial caliper second to top of the list over a digital one.....digital ones always have dead batteries when you need them most. Top of the list is the vernier caliper…..they are dead accurate ALWAYS.
great video. how do you get oil into that oiler ontop of the compound? I own a QC 42. I got it all back together I need to get a tool post which is my next purchase then I'm off to making chips. thanks for sharing I learn something on every video.
You can get a 1.5 x 3 x 12 chunk of cast iron from McMaster-Carr. Unfortunately, they want $75 (plus shipping) for it. 1018 the same size would go for about $58.
Hi Mr. Pete! When designing the new compound for the Atlas 618, have you found enough clearance to add in anti-backlash nuts for both the compound and carriage/cross-slide? What about screw protectors?
Mr. Pete, I realize the idea is to whittle out a new compound. I think I have an extra compound for the 6" Atlas I would gift to you if you care to have it.
It appears you are not going to stress relieve the CR steel stock. A) Is there some reason for that? You don't want it to warp again after you finish the work. Will the stresses cause it to warp over time? B) Do you feel like doing an experiment using the remainder of the CR stock and seeing how it acts if you make a duplicate part after the stock is stress relieved?
Could any of those stresses cause the peice to twist or warp sometime later from using the part once its finished? And/or could heating it up and letting it cool get rid the stress?
I always thought that he did, one of my 'names' is 'Wayland' (as in Wayland's Smithy) another Smith, but a member of the Northern European 'Pantheon' (as against the Greek 'Pantheon').
Love your work, but I would have repaired it in a different manner. I would have done a series of build up welds on the damaged piece. Then, I would have milled the excess down.
That was one nasty "repair" on that compound slide. I wonder if it was even partially usable, or used. I assume you have some corner rounding endmills. I think if I were doing it I'd make a casual attempt to make a likeness of the original shape by rounding the top sides aft of the T slot, and the front corners. Would take more time and make no functional difference, but it would somewhat maintain the look of the machine.
