And always remember that you are not locked into the shutter speed that your iso dictates with S/16. If you're zone focusing and light changes you can just as easily slow the shutter a stop or two to maintain your working depth of field. A stop is a stop no matter where you get it from. I think S/16 sometimes tricks people in the early stages into thinking they can only adjust aperture.
I’m reminded that Cartier-Bresson would shoot either 1/500 or 1/125 depending on the lighting conditions but still use f16 or f11 to keep his depth of field intact.
Something that gives me confidence when metering by eye and shooting colour negative is to lean towards overexposure when in doubt, it gives flexibility and the "built in" latitude usually turns out well.
I ordered a Leica m-a that was priced so low, I couldn’t say no; I am super excited for this step in my photography. I’ve shot with a pen Ft with a broken light meter for a while now. I still struggle judging indoor lighting situations. Thanks for the tips. Amazing timing !
I've been waiting for such a video of yours. Really impressed by how you are rolling this M-A without meter. Oh, I would love to see that vid where you judge exposure in the field :)
i love guessing and then checking with my meter. it kind of does that quick assurance that you're going the right direction, without needing digital or to see the film
Been searching RU-vid for a video like this. I dont have a light meter and don't have the means to buy one right now. Also i think fundamentally its helpful to be able to have this skill. Thank you for making this
Ha, enjoyed the humour in this one, Hashem 👏 This video also shows how far you've come with your confidence in front of the camera and now in public too 👏 Well done.
I’ve been shooting sunny 16 forever and never miss exposure on streets . I’m baffled that photographers won’t trust the science of light and that of the camera . Shutter speed can also be manipulated for the same purpose. Anyway glad you’ve made a video about this . Good job 👏.
Very good advice. I would add: On something like the Sekonic, use incident metering. When using a camera to meter, force it into center weighted metering or spot metering and take multiple measurements from areas with different brightness in the scene to see how they relate.
Learning the exposure traingle helped me a lot. Now I just change the settings to get the image I like. And then cry because it doesn't look the same on PC as it does on my camera.
Thanks for the helpful reminders. Would be a great idea to do a more in depth view of sunny 16 in different settings, like urban, and country. I find in NYC, I tend to underexpose, when it is a bright day, but where the buildings are really blocking the light. It’s like my mind knows that it’s sunny out and it starts to creep into my metering estimates. That said, I agree with you about just trying it! I was terrified the first few rolls I did this way, and everything worked out ok. In fact, it is even easier in some ways, because you stop being a slave to the meter. Someone once reminded me recently, that lots of people say they would never use auto exposure but if you always dial in exactly what the camera’s meter tells you, without thinking about the subject and the light, and what you want to accomplish, then that’s basically what you are doing. When you use sunny 16 you have to overcome that first block of fear, but then you are free to shoot, and adjust as you feel may be necessary.
Hello, great video! Personnally I just look at the shadows, it is much more precise : Shadow Full sun - sharp shadow: f / 16 Veiled sun - diffuse shadow: -1 stop => f / 11 Against the light or in the shade (clear shade): -3 stops => f / 5.6 Sun above the horizon, before diving: about -4 stops or about f / 4 No shade Hidden sun, white sky, visible sun disk with sunglasses: -2 stops => f / 8 Overcast sky, light gray, invisible sun disk: -3 stops => f / 5.6 Overcast, leaden gray, it can rain: -4 stops => f / 4 Rain: from -4 to -5 stops or f / 4 to f / 2.8 Interior From -9 to -10 stops Dim lights: between -12 and -15 stops I use this and I have great result, hope it helps.
So true, so true. Sometimes it's just that you have that ONE small moment to get an epci shot and you don't have time to be a slave to the meter, you've got to wing it and hope your experience makes the day.
I shoot digital manual, but I'm trying practicing sunny 16 rule as well. Because I became cling to a light meter in the camera so much, afraid of bad exposure, to the point it was interrupting the flow while walking and taking photos. I want to just focus and shoot with confident and still being manual not full auto mode. Thanks for the video.👍
Back in the day …. film rolls came with a piece of paper about ‘basic exposure’ method - this worked for Black & White photographers really well! Now in digital these digital days - this still works, as long as you camera can work ‘mechanical mode’! F16 @ 1/125s with ISO 100! Boom!
I do this all the time - it’s like a “warm up ritual” whenever I break out the camera to start using it. The funny part is that of course half the time, those are my best photos of the day, lol
A more in-depth instructional video would be nice! I do have the basic understanding (and did some more detailed tables), but I can't put it to practical use. (I do use the sunny 16 rule to check on plausibility of meter readings with old cameras, but I can't go without a light meter …)
Excellent video, especially for this novice photographer. To be honest, I'm still pretty confused about the combination of ISO, aperture and shutter speed, but far less confused after I watched your video.
+1 for a deep metering video. would love to see where you place the center weight mark in the frame to get the reading. there are many videos out there but none that do that :(
how about using that rusty old canon g10 in the bottom of the drawer, or other digi point and shoot, see what auto/av…settings it took for a certain frame, transfer to the film camera and see how it turned out?
Thank you! I always do this (based on Sunny 16) and works perfectly for me on Sunny days. 👇(⇒ always overexpose by +1): ・ISO100 → 1/125 🌞f11 🌤f5.6 🌴(light shade) f2.8 🌄(dark shade) f1.4 ・ISO200 → 1/250 🌞f11 🌤f5.6 🌴(light shade) f2.8 🌄(dark shade) f1.4 ・ISO400 → 1/500 🌞f11 🌤f5.6 🌴(light shade) f2.8 🌄(dark shade) f1.4 Also, love the strap and the length! Would you mind telling me which one it is? Would love to order one for my M3!
From what I’ve come to understand with the Sunny 16 Rule is that your aperture is always changing to accommodate the lighting. As someone that likes to always shoot wide open, it’s a hard rule to follow. If there’s an alternative method to the Sunny 16 that doesn’t require closing down the aperture, I’m all ears.
You could just exchange a stop of aperture for shutter speed... but in most daylight situations you will quickly reach a "cap" when shooting wide open (an ND filter is a great solution to that)
Long time ago when I was 13 my dad's 4x5 camera no light meter. 1/50 at f11 royal pan press film. Then your chemicals and temperature can alter the photos too. My dad liked Dektol 1:1. I liked Micrdol full strength. I'm sure I miss spelled the chemistry. I always liked my negatives a tad darker. Easier to fix them in the darkroom.
I don't even think you need to memorize a table for Sunny 16. You just need to know this: For ISO 400 film (and I use this for Portra 800, too): Direct sunlight - f8 and 1/1000 Open shade/backlit - f2.8 and 1/1000. From there, you can adjust as needed, but for most people in most situations, I think that will get you pretty close without risking under exposure.
A more detailed video would be great. Also, it would good to see how metering and focus are related. For example, any time you step down to f 5.6 or lower, focus has to be done with the patch right? Or can you just change the zone you are using?
Sure! About focus, it doesnt need to necessarily, but it's definitely worth watching a few videos on hyperfocal distances and grasping that concept first.
Film has latitude! So has Digital!!. Black and Whie film. : Film test. Take a roll,shoot as many as needed and cut out of camera. Use HP5+/Tri-x,/ any 400 speed film.Shoot on sunny day. Do some backlit, in open shade, Side light,in downtown in shade of buildings. Expose at ISO/ASA from say 25 speed,50,100,200,400,800, 1600 and 3200.Make small prints at home or lab. Big Surprise awaits. Color negative film C-41 use lower ASA/ISO. Use 400 film. Go down to ISO 10 or less. Don't bother over 1000.Same small prints. It will be worth lots! Enjoy and Bravo. DO IT!
Congrats for this video and your channel! What about if I'm in full manual mode (I choose my ISO, shutter speed and aperture)? I guess it doesn't matter which light metering mode you choose (spot, evaluative etc...). Am I right? I've done some tests, and the metering mode makes no difference when I'm in full manual.Could you confirm (or not...) please ? Regards.
If the camera light meter suggests we put on auto mode should we? And if I'm pushing a 400 roll to 800 iso should I set shutter speed for 400 or 800? thanks!
Great tips, thank you for that! May I ask what strap is that? I looked at your channel and couldn't find the answer so apologies if you've mentioned already. I have an M10 Monochrom and I'm waiting for an MP and your strap seems the perfect lenght. The one I'm currently using (Artisan&Artist ACAM-310) is very nice but a bit too long so the camera bounces while I'm walking. Do you experienced the same issue with your shorter one? Cheers
Hey, the strap is by Tap and Dye, I've used their stuff for years and have 3 different straps from them. You can order the strap by length. I did indeed go with the short one you see in this video, to prevent the amount of bouncing that you normally get with a longer one when wearing it around the neck! Best to get a measuring tape and visualise it around your neck before ordering 👍🏼
@@pushingfilm Thanks mate! I appreciate your reply. By the way, totally out of context here, but after watching another of your videos I wanted to say that Sergio Larrain is also my favorite photographer...I happened to be Chilean (living in Australia for the last 14 years) so I reckon I'm bias....but anyways, he is amazing! cheers
@@pushingfilm oh WOW!, I have 2, the London one and one called "El Rectangulo en la Mano" which is a beautiful small note book size edition. I was desperately looking for the one of Valparaiso but is out of stock everywhere in the world!. The bigger one unfortunately costs a fortune in Amazon!. Where did you find them? By the way, do you remeber which model is your short strap?
@@jarkmodels Nice! Wow, it seems like Valparaiso might be limited in stock now... As for the bigger book you're right, I had it on my watchlists for a while due to the price until i found a half-decent deal on it. Hopefully, they make some reprints of both. The strap I use is by Tap and Dye out of New York
There are a lot of nice smartphone apps that use the camera features in the phone to create a light meter. If you install one of the lightmeter apps on your phone then you usually have a lightmeter with you.
Thanks for sharing, sunny 16 is not going to help you always get the correct exposure, especially if the subject is little back light, with the right education and a spot meter that most cameras already have in built you don’t need a seperate light meter, especially SLRs. Exposing for negative film is easy once you learn the science of negative and the opposite positive film, both films require a similar approach but an emphases on shadow recovery for negative and highlight protection for positive. Let’s start with neg film, Here you need to start viewing the world in black and white, start understanding were in the scene your deep shadows, mid tones and highlights are, and if you want detail in those areas? Next start taking spot readings from your deepest shadows (Dark part of the scene) understand that your spot meter in your camera will turn everything it looks at into a neutral grey point (mid tone ) or even exposure 0, so once you have taken a reading from the darkest part of your scene let’s say for example it’s a black jacket your subject is wearing and your cameras spot meter is showing F8 @ 1/250 shutter, you need to remember that your spot reading will read everything you point it too and turn it into a neutral grey, mid tone, but this is not what we want our black jacket to become we need to look black but still retain texture. So what you need to do is close down 2 full stops go from 1/250 shutter to 1/1000 or f8 to f16, anymore then 2 stops and your blacks will start loosing texture, so now when pointing to the black jacket your meter should be saying -2 ev assuming your in manual mode, the rest of the scene unless it’s in uneven light will be exposed perfectly. Positive film is the complete opposite you meter for your whites (highlights) brightest part that you want texture and then add 2 stops over expose +2ev . Gets trickier with more complexed lighting but this how you can’t go wrong in simple evenly light scene.
Should have added.. don’t be afraid to spend…. Spend … spend ….. and when you get good … give it all up … Actually… just kidding… you should have added… just slow down … don’t be afraid to miss a shoot .. especially in street … something will happen again.. and very quickly in my experience… and stop walking.. just find a interesting spot .. and stay awhile.. can’t stand watching all those street photogs who keep walking and snapping and walking on …
