Another video chapter in the Dumas Chipmunk Indoor R/C build. Today we look at starting the tissue covering, starting with the tail sections and moving on to the wings.
Hi Danny, We wait weeks for the next installment and what do we get? "I shall try not to talk..." Oh no, not another mute video. No Danny, please DO talk to us. As you talk, you impart knowledge and explain what you're doing and why. That is interesting and informative. Instead we're subjected to half an hour of APPALLING plinky-plonky go-nowhere 'music'. I guess you put that in after filming but I suggest you play it live whilst you work. If you can put up with it for hours, then I suppose we can too. But if not, please don't impose torture on your faithful followers. Otherwise, great skill as ever. Thanks. Phil
Thanks for the feedback Phil, the talking bit is about midway through, and then again at the end. I have the tv on in the background, and due to copyright issues cannot broadcast the audio that gets picked up. I take on board your thoughts though, cheers
Thanks, not to everyones taste :) If it is something that I think you want to see how it's done then real time is better IMO. its the little things like using your finger to smooth down the tissue. Sped up you would miss it. I would rather cut out huge swathes of footage than just speed it up. Which is indeed what happened here. I had nearly 3 hours of footage to edit.
Hi Danny, if you don't mind, what was the silver tissue you tried. I have purchased "domestic" tissue from VMC and it seems like the same issue I've had, it's not porous enough to let the dope soak through. I've had good success with glue sticks though.
@@cammnut yes, I apply it dry, as the tissue has little to no wet strength, then a light mist of water or holding it carefully over boiling water to let the steam shrink it.
Hi, I spray water on the tissue to shrink it. The glass jar with the yellow lid contains low Tautening cellulose dope. The thinners are used to dilute the dope as it dries out over time, and gets thicker.
Hi Danny, I've missed your videos. I don't do tissue and dope but I was following a thread on rc universe by John R and his Hawker Tempest build and he uses believe it or not wallpaper paste to initially stick the tissue to the frames of the elevators and rudder if they are of open structure. And then continues with banana oil and or dope. Maybe that would work with the less porous tissue that you have. Just a thought. Atb PS that thread is years old now but it's still on the forum
I know John, and we have flown together. Attaching tissue with paste or glue is how the experts do it. I do it by letting dope soak through. Either works. But for the less porous, a glue or paste has to be used. I might try more of the silver on another tailplane, just for the exercise. Another glue is watered 50/50 pva. A free flight friend swears by it
My opinion of you has dropped dramtically I am afraid Danny..... a bloody Marmite jar!!! and you made me look at it for 31 minutes...... Now you have me wondering on the adhesive qualities of the bloody stuff............. ;)
Oh dear Dave i am sorry to have gone down in your estimation. However in my defence they are terrific jars, great size, very stable and best of all, free. I do not do marmite but the rest of the family does ;) The only down size is that they are not a perfect seal and the dope needs constantly topping up with thinners.
It looked like heavy paper on the fuselage at the start. In my day you used tissue and dope. No water. Sanding sealer sounds good if you use water. Not sure why I see video of tissue so wet it is like wet toilet paper and falls apart or tears for them.😯
I am using tissue paper. I have always applied tissue wet, I find it easier to get all the wrinkles out this way. Some brands of tissue have really poor wet strength and fall apart when wet. The quality ones should have good wet strength. I try to use dope to stick it down, but tissue paste also works well, just harder to lift if you make a mistake.
