Kinda of a hack installation if you ask me. For $1,700 you should probably give enough wire loom to cover the control wires to the cab. And buy the installer some safety glasses, gloves, and a friend. Maybe a little bondo for the hole he installed with the plasma torch too.
How do you determine which metal parts are "non-critical" and "non-structural" components of the vehicle? This process was very well explained but there has to be an easier way than this. And why is this limited to diesel only?
@@twinscrew9.047 Yeah the only difference between the majority of gas and diesel tanks is the permitting and licensing required to market the tank as diesel vs gas.
in sure this has been thought og but why not extend the factory fuel return to the aux tank and then got from the aux tank to the return of the main tank, that way you would have no cutting and a aux tank
Darrin Portell /// I’ve worked in fabrication on new truck beds, let me tell you that just one slip and you mess up the whole job. We used protective tape and very expensive hole saws to avoid walking it. Steady smooth pressure is all it takes. Never messed up. High speed, a little water, light pressure, and your golden. The right Tools make it happen
cargopage you don’t program the vehicles computer. The tank has an independent fuel pump, gauge, and controller. When your main tank starts getting low enough to accept the 30 gallons you just flip a switch and it pumps fuel from the rear tank into the main tank.
What would you guys recommend for a 2001 Chevy Suburban? It’s lifted and I just took off the spare tire, since I’ve never used it since owning the vehicle and now I’m looking for an auxiliary fuel talk. Is there a link maybe to a GM truck you’ve guys worked on preferably years 2000 to 2006 or something documented as such for one? It’s lifted on 35s with a 6in lift with 3in torsion keys on the front and 3in pucks on the coils and now I’m looking to updating it more for camping and traveling long distances. Something like this would come in handy while out in the woods for sure.
at 1879.05 with the tank and fuel thats not worth it at all and whats with not not makeing gas systems thay are loosing out on a big market like expedition overlanding and long range highway travel
Gasoline is a lot more volatile than diesel and the requirements/restrictions make gas tanks VERY expensive therefore most tank makers avoid gas systems. Thank the USDOT
I got 5 gallon jugs of gas that are federally approved. Why can’t I use this for gas then. 1/4 inch thick wall with venting. SHTF scenario doesn’t have to be federally approved people, ya dig?
Should be possible. I did this on a 2011 Toyota Prado not fitted with a factory sub tank. Only issue was not being able to control which tank was filled.
Ken MacMillan www.forconstructionpros.com/product/10818700/titan-fuel-tanks-60-gal-polymer-in-bed-diesel-fuel-tank Titan Fuel's 5010060 60-gal. cross-linked polyethylene, In-Bed Diesel Fuel Tank is specifically engineered to accommodate the broadest array of diesel fuels and stand up to the rigors of off-road use. Fits most full-sized American-made diesel pickup trucks Virtually unaffected by corrosive properties of diesel and bio-diesel fuels and fuel additives Formed from military-grade cross-linked polyethylene which is 200 times less thermal conductive than steel Polymer's insulating properties eliminate condensation while increasing mileage efficiency by keeping fuel cooler and closer to optimal combustion temperatures Fully baffled to prevent load shifting Smooth, contoured edges with no sharp weld points to rust, fail under stress or compromise structural integrity Tank weighs 51 lbs. Secure to truck bed with forged eye-nuts Sold as a complete kit and with 15 separate options
Not only do you fuck the side of your bed, now you have an ugly fuel door that does not match the original. So now on top of paying $1,700 you have to by a damn one time use drill bit and a fuel door that matches...wow no thanks. I'll just use a drag up tank that costs way less and holds more fuel
