I don't have a dad that taught me how to do it all. I have Dino teaching me how to look after my DR and a few other great youtubers showing me how to tinker.
Today I had to do this because of some nasty issues with the starter. It works great, it spins like a new one, the engine starts from the first quarter of the second I press the switch. You, sir, are a genuine treasure here! May God bless you!😊
I am so happy that the content was able to help you service your starter, and thank you so much for taking the time to comment and let me know. It really does help. Dino
Thank you so much for making a comment, I've been sick all week and am finding it hard to get motivated to edit, but its comments like yours that get me back in the chair. Thanks again. Dino
Great video with all the important detail so most anybody can service the started. For those who want to fix this problem for good read on. When my 2017 started to crow I installed a Warp 9 Started Cap as it has a bearing instead of a brass bushing. Poor design choice Suzuki. I don't expect to have to do this service again. The cost of the Warp 9 replacement part is $69 US. The cost to replace all the washers, o-rings and gaskets, especially the exhaust gaskets isn't cheap. The exhaust gaskets alone are about $29 US. Thanks Dino I enjoy your videos!
Glad you enjoyed it, I agree with the warp 9 option as the best solution for sure and your comment on parts cost is very accurate, things can add up very quickly for sure. Thank you for the comment and insight. Dino
I just wanna say that i appreciate your detailed video. I really appreciate it so i can do all the work by myself without being afraid to screw it up. Thanks a lot Dino, cheers from Chile
Excellent video. I have a 2020 and I have the rear shock removed to install the plex valve upgrade. I was just starting to hear the odd squeak from my starter lately. The bike has a five year warranty so I was going to just let it go an have the dealer replace the starter when it gets bad but after watching your video I have decided to go ahead and lube the starter bushing while I already have the bike apart for the shock. If I’m feeling extra ambitious I will do a how to video on the plex valve install. Again great video.
Its a lot of work for such a little job. I like the way you explain these bike jobs. I'm no stoop when it comes to mechanics but It helps to learn from others mistakes. Not that you show that. These are little maintenance things that I will need to do now or latter so this helps me plan for them. Now back to the tractors and building sheds and all the other house renovations. Well done again. Thanks
Thank you for the comment, I agree they bury the starter rather deep in the bike and its a bit of a chore to remove it. I agree that its best to learn from other peoples mistakes when you can and believe me, I make my fair share. Maybe I should put out a video showing a few of the worst. Again, thank you for taking the time to comment and good luck with the house renovations. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I just pinched the DR oil filter outer sealing ring, now it leaks. Damm, The bike shops want $9 & $14 for a new 1. Two different shops. Buggered if im paying that for an o ring. Bastards, The trouble is everything is an hour away from here. I think I'll go to a bearing/ seal shop and buy 6 or so for a cheaper price. I hate to encourage price gouging. What they don't realize is they might win with that sale, but I won't go back there for any parts in the future. Big Mistake! I so dislike greedy people. Reasonable products for a reasonable price I say. Sorry for the rant my friend. This old farmer doesn't put up with much shit these day's. Love your vids. Keep it up.
I hear you. Let me know if you can find the right O-ring, my experience is that even though I have two master sets of O-rings, both metric and imperial, the factory O-rings are somewhere in the middle so you can never find an exact fit. I think this is also a way manufacturers force you back to the dealerships for parts. I would say though, that some things that you buy from 3rd party vendors are genuine Suzuki Parts sold to you at a mark up over the dealer cost, so I always call my dealer to get their price first before I order form online retailers. I grew up in a farming community myself, and although I did not grow up on a farm I had both friends and family that did (Woodstock Ontario is the dairy capital of Canada after all), my experience is that they are hard working no nonsense people that understand the value of honesty, helping out your neighbor and a fair deal. I'm afraid retailers and dealers have forgotten that concept a long time ago so don't worry about your rant, it is an accurate statement. Thank you for the comment and the rant 😀 Dino
Thank you for a very clear step by step lesson , I now have the confidence to tackle this much need maintenance. With respect I have just one comment, the negative battery terminal lead should always be disconnected before the positive lead and reconnected after the positive lead, just a small point but an important safety issue. Again thank you from Australia. Ray 🇦🇺🦘
Thank you for the feedback. Your not the first to catch the cable lol. Thank you for taking the time to comment and mentioning the negative cable. Dino
Damn...we had 43.3 deg C on Christmas Day down here in Australia then had 5 consecutive days with temps over 40 deg C. I removed the armature end cap metal bush and replaced it with a needle roller bearing. The starter spins a lot faster and no more squealing.
With the guidance of this video, I replaced my starter cap with the Warp9. Night and day difference, starts as soon as I hit the button and no rooster call. The Warp9 looks really cool, but you never see it...lol
I have heard good things about the warp9 cap, it makes sense how it is designed, good to know it works well. May have to look into that in the future. Thanks for the feedback. Dino
Great step by step Dino! I'm planning on knocking out my starter motor over the weekend and this really helped explain the process. By the way, it would be awesome if you did a video on changing the tires/removing the wheels. That's one thing I have yet to do and something that I'm truly paranoid about...having to change/repair a tube when I'm out in the bush.
Thank you for the comment, Karl and I actually filmed installing his tires but did not think the footage was quite good enough to upload. I will be getting new tires and will try again. Thanks for the comments. Dino
Greetings What a fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸 Would you provide me with your windshield brand name. Thanks for assisting me, keep producing more videos.
I'm glad you enjoy the content. My windshield is actually a BMW 650 Dakar windshield that I fitted to the dr. I like it alot but it is very thick and a bit on the heavy side. Thanks again Dino
Thanks for the tutorial, very easy to follow along. Just curious about the orientation of the banjo bolts when installing, do they need to be threaded so that the drain hole on the side of the shank aligns with the oil line itself?
I have had great luck with Winderosa gasket sets over the years. These are made in the USA and the die cuts are clean and precise. I will say though, that I purchased a cheap set from China when I worked on the small 50cc Baja mini bike, I paid $15 off amazon for them and they were not to bad. I would use these again in a small project like that mini bike without hesitation although for my DR I think I would stick with the brand name. Thanks for the question. Dino
Watching all of your videos preparing myself to get a DR650. Kind of late to the game going on 32 with a first bike but still young at heart haha I had a question which isn't really related to the video but it caught my attention watching you disassemble everything. Would it be a good idea to go to a hardware store and make all of the bolts/fasteners the same type and size? I noticed the 6mm hex bolts could supplement both the 10mm and 8mm bolts seen on a majority of the bike, which made me think you could reduce almost all of the tools needed to 2-3 common standard hex or security star bit sizes.
Thank you for the feed back. I often take a few more items off just to give me a bit more access and also for better cameras angles. Feedback like this always helps. Dino
another great video. Question - when do you know when to use Anti-Sieze, and when to use Lock-Tite? Does it depend on the heat exposure to the threads?
You would use anti-seize when you want to remove the bolt/nut/stud in the future. There are different types of anti-seize depending on hot (copper based) or cold (silver/nickel) applications. Loctite is used when you do not want the bolt/nut/stud to loosen unless you you loosen it. There are different types of thread locking products for heat, oil and normal temps along with different strengths. If you use a higher strength locking medium and it wont release using normal tools you can always release it with heat ( which is sometimes not practical ) Make sure both treads are clean and dry prior to application and setting and also remember you do not need a lot the locking compound. Hope this helps.
I can't really add anything to the great explanation from justgit other than the manual will often let you know what and where to use both products. Thank you for the question. Dino
That's interesting at 6:23 . Looks like the Suzuki factory pet cock valve uses engine vacuum to open fuel flow ? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure this all out before I buy that 2003 DR 650 .😀
That is correct, when you shut off the engine the petcock shuts off. it draws vacuum from a tiny port near the top of the carb. when I added the larger Safari tank this port must be caped off. It is a nice option but I was so used to a three position petcock that I found it odd at first. Great question, thanks for asking. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Thank you for the reply and nice work on the starter service ! 👍 Can you " Roll Start " the DR 650 in a pinch if the starter would fail assuming the road or trail had some down grade to get momentum ?
@@cranerigging3604 sure can, it has a fair amount of compression but you can. The petcock has a prime feature so even if you need to fill the float bowl before you roll start it you can.
Ciao Mr. Dino, ti scrivo da Roma - Italy. Ho da pochi mesi acquistato il mio DR650SE. Seguo ogni tuo video. Moto fantastica. Quando io accendo il suo motore sento spesso una specie di urlo. Dipende forse da questa scarsa lubrificazione ? Considera che la mia moto è un modello del 1998 e sono sicuro non abbia mai subito questa accortezza. Proverò comunque a farlo. Grazie del tuo prezioso aiuto
Hello Marco, yes most likely it is dry starter bearings, if you take it apart and service it, the noise should go away. Thank you for following my content, and have fun on the DR!. Dino
@@RickReynolds-n4w I do not believe it does, however the only thing I could see being impacted is that there is pressure on the cam lobes if it is not and I'm not sure if this pressure could somehow slip the cam chain when you remove the tensioner. If it was me I would take the time and set it to TDC just to be sure.
@user-cs3ky8qq2f I don't think I did for the video,, however this was a while ago, so I can't quite remember. I just looked it up and the manual does not mention setting TDC so I think you are OK.
Hey thanks for the question. JIS stands for Japanese industrial standard and is a screwdriver profile very similar but not quite exactly the same as the Philips that we know in north America. Although very hard to see the angle of the tip is slightly different and locks into the fasteners on Japanese motorcycles and power equipment better than a Philips leading to less cam out and fastener damage. I hope this helps and the k you again for the question. Di o
Thank you for the question. I use a synthetic wheel bearing and suspension grease from motomaster here in Canada but any good quality bearing grease will work for you. Thanks again for the question. Dino
Curious if you've run into the loud clunk noise that many DR650 owners report. It happens when I shut off the bike and then again while starting. Any ideas or other video tutorial for that issue?
Yes mine makes the clunk, from what I recall it Is part of an anti kickback mechanism or something. That is a great idea for a video. I'll have to do some research on it to ensure I get the right information. Thanks for the comment and great idea. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedAny thoughts on the anti kickback issue, I have similar and assumed it was associated with the starter clutch. I have my flywheel cover off at the moment and starter clutch bearing seem fine.
Ok I looked and nobody said this. You took the battery cables off in he incorrect order. Always take the negative cable off first if you touch ground it won’t spark and once off the positive cable is safe. Put them on in the opposite order positive then negative. 40+ years ASE Certified Technician.
@@prairiegold6870 as a 40 year ASE certified technician you take off the negative first especially in new computerized vehicles. Every class and school I ever went to made that a point. Go ahead and touch your tool from positive to a chassis contact and find out. I had to help someone to the eye wash after a battery exploded because he accidentally contacted the body.
when i first bought my dr it had 750km on the clock and it did the rooster sound but a few thousand km later and i never hear it? Should i still grease it?
Hello and thank you for the detailed tutorial. I am trying to diagnose an issue with the starter on my 1996 DR650. Most of the time it will not work. Occasionally it will turn over. I tested the wires and it seems that approximately 12 volts is being sent through all wires to the connection on top of the starter. My conclusion is that it is time for a new starter. Is there any way for me to test or analyze in my starter once it is removed in order to confirm that it is bad? Interesting observation, once the starter was removed there was no drain hole to be found. As you can imagine, the starter was sitting in a puddle of mud and debris. I hope to hear your perspective.
Hmm If you have taken the starter apart to lube it you can check for burned or damaged wires on the windings and look at the condition of the brushes and segmented armature. I am not sure on other testing methods for the starter. I would say given the age and the lack of water drainage it most likely needs replacement. As for a new motor, I would not discount Suzuki itself as an option, if not Pro Cycle does sell one for 149 us. Hope this helps. Dino
Where are yer old bark busters, upgraded headlamp, aux lights. I know . ...we all don't like riding at night unless we have to or we got caught with our pants down.
