Tokyo Marui MWS Bolt/Buffer Weights, Combos, Parts and Considerations 

You won’t regret it! They’re very reliable and easy to repair if need be, and a hoot to shoot

I bought one, an hour later it was broken lol.. pure garbage right there will never buy again.. 1200dollar for a piece of shit

@@fsdffdsgfdg8295 What did you do? Like the process before it broke?

@@Kinetic05 opened it, lubed it up, then shot and, it was already lubed with sulicone but I did it again. Then we put magazines in it and fired, semi and full auto with burst for an hour, also i use greengas.. I probably got myself a lemon, same as my brother with he's vfc mk18.. he's gun keeps clicking, the fire pin gets stuck when you pull the triggar in semi auto. We have change half the gun to a new piece like the whole piece but the problem still exist, the guy we bought the gun of switched it for free but still.. Today im going to use my warranty.. we'll see if it keeps happening.. but aint nobody paying for gas money or time since it is an hour away.. that sucks. But, we will get it fixed today for free, we have warranty for 2 years here, they promise no mather what the gun will be functable for two years thats Kinda why i bought it

@@fsdffdsgfdg8295 What broke on it exactly?

Appreciate it!

Actually a lighter bolt would be most ideal for cold, but most can get away with the stock one as well. Personally I swap to lightweight bolts for the cold.. just did so in fact!

Awesome man thanks for the support! G&p makes 2 versions of the v2 buffer, one fits stock tm buffer tubes and the other fits aftermarket ones, but can be lightly filed/sanded to fit a stock one as well as it’s just barely too tight. Imo an aftermarket tube is a nice upgrade for $30 if you can swing it as it’s one piece vs the stock tm one which has a removable end cap that can come loose- red loctite that screw if sticking with stock! The older gray ones should all fit if you can find it, it’s the new gold ones that have 2 versions. I believe this is the one you need: www.redwolfairsoft.com/g-p-aluminum-buffer-version-2-for-tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-gbb-buffer-tube.html

It’s that good for the cold? Also where did you get it from?

Oof, yeah the angry gun nozzle are notoriously trash. I have one as well and it was doa. I should make a video on just generally avoiding ag internal parts! You want either the ra-tech or the orga mws npas valve, that will allow you to fine tune your fps. Alternatively you could use a slightly shorter barrel, as it will decrease fps but I’d recommend an npas.

Hey dude, if you're still looking, Federal Concepts has an amazing NPAS. Very consistent

Everyone says this but i found the opposite to be true​@RecoilRogue

Agreed! They’re much easier to source in the states, an h3 buffer (all tungsten weights- 5oz~) will cost about the same as the ag one, but is one piece design which I like vs the spring loaded end on the ag. Also you will save a bunch on shipping. Jkarmy does sell the ag heavy recoil buffer though. Alternatively a standard weight carbine ar15 buffer (3oz) is about $15 and adds a nice bit of weight already, and gives much nicer recoil than stock. It’s the best bang for buck imo as you don’t notice a whole lot more with a $40 h3 buffer- but that’s very subjective I don’t have extensive use with them yet, but haven’t seen any issues initially. Plan to run it a few thousand rounds and see if anything develops, then will make a video about it 👍 In theory the concave shape of the mws specific buffer heads centers in the open back end of the bolt ends, keeping it centered in the buffer tube. So one suggestion could be to run the bolt with a g&p roller bolt end to help keep it centered, since with a flat face ar15 buffer it may not ride as centered as the concave mws buffers. Im testing without the roller bolt end however and don’t see it being an issue, but it is one theory/concern. Also one small downside with ar buffers is when opening the receivers, the RS ones like to pop out- not a big deal but fyi

@@Wolfman_NV Good to hear! Right now I don't know of anyone testing real buffers without a roller bolt, so if you can provide us with an update that would be fantastic!

As I think I mentioned I don’t have a problem with any of the actual bolts themselves, they all work just fine. But angry gun internals are not consistent so if you go for an AG bolt, I’d buy just the shell and get a G&P complete bolt set to finish the build. Personally the stock bolt is my favorite because it is the heaviest so gives the most felt recoil. Main reason for buying aftermarket would be for trademarks, or if you’re looking for a lightweight bolt for winter use/less recoil/snappier trigger response.

@@Wolfman_NVhi! being that i live in the tropics, would just replacing the stock spring nozzle with dynamic precision ones, and a buffer replacement be a good starting point for upgrading?

@@ricolek4166 Stock bolt with sturdier nozzle spring, and a new trigger spring is all it needs. Metallic buffer is better too.

Any nozzle will work in it, I highly recommend guns modify nozzles, have seen some issues with unicorns and literally every other one. Don’t mean it won’t work but I don’t see why youse risk it when everyone knows the guns modify works fantastic

That is a mtr gold bolt edition, forgot to mention it but it’s the same weight as a standard bolt, just colored gold. Don’t know of any gold bolts off top but spray paint could work in a pinch!

@@Wolfman_NV To anyone with the same question in the future. The G&P gold bolt (if you can still get your hands on one) has a VERY SIMULAR color, it is notably different side by side but in the gun you cant tell the difference, and is significantly lighter (10:31)

Shims > turning buffer tubes. Shims is the proper way to adjust. Always need to check buffer alignment whenever messing with the buffer, I have a video on it 👍

Add me on discord and we can discuss in the discord group. But it’s funny as I’m currently having issues with a friends recent mtr g edition as well. Have also heard of a few others with the mag catch issue, seems to be the ambi mag catch. Starting to wonder if there’s a bad batch of them. Mag catch is easy fix, swap to a normal one or some other aftermarket ambi catch if you want to retain that function. Really shouldn’t have to for the price of that gun, but it’s an easy fix. The selector shouldn’t have anything to do with the bolt/buffer, except for that there is a spring and detent hidden by the receiver end plate and when you removed your buffer, perhaps you either lost some of those parts or didn’t reinstall correctly. That would affect your selector. Hard to diagnose here though so join the discord! Lots of helpful people there. Tokyo Marui Gas Blowback Rifle Series Group: discord.gg/WWHW2pwm

Hi there, I’m also having the same problem from my mtr16 , I change the whole bolt carrier (gnp) , I still can’t shoot properly, it’s on and off , I’m using bls bb, the size should not a problem, can I join u at discord discussion , I hope I can find solutions for my new mtr 😓

Lovely combo! As mentioned stock bolt plus Hao steel bolt end and AG heavy buffer or a real steel h1-h3 buffer will provide a very fun shooting experience- recommended only in normal/hot temps however

@@Wolfman_NV Hi sorry for the late reply. Just want to ask if a heavier (say 130%) buffer spring should be used with this heavy bolt + buffer combo? I heard that heavier setup can introduce more bolt bounce? Thanks for your input!

Hi sorry for the late reply. Just want to ask if a heavier (say 130%) buffer spring should be used with this heavy bolt + buffer combo? I heard that heavier setup can introduce more bolt bounce? Thanks for your input!

Check my bolt over travel / buffer tuning video, you need to add a couple nylon washers/spacers to the buffer tube for the g&p buffer. It’s not the cleanest vid but should get you in the right direction

Ra tech npas should do the trick

@@Wolfman_NV i inatalled it. Thanks bro

The gold bolt with roller end is a stock Tokyo Marui bolt (mtr g edition) with the g&p roller bolt end, I did forget to mention that

@@Wolfman_NV really interested in that one part sadly lol

@@willeudave7839 it is basically designed to help keep the bolt centered in the buffer tube when cycling, not a necessary part imo, I have no issues using rounded bolt ends