Tomoa Narasaki's Revolutionary Step Up Dyno! | Beta Break Ep.14 

Lmao This comment soo underrated

Yikes

just like the video games huh

Usually after every other patch or so it seems

CODM Vibes

LOL That would be the strongest relationship ever !

Same bruh

bet lmao

so you run 3 m/s? that's jogging speed

Yes, these men do not _climb_ up the wall, they run.

Now he break a world record again 5.20 second

This comment is pure gold. 👏

I think your onto something

thats just redbull my dude

This is the extra step up dyno jump that was added to assassins creed 2

That implies that the Olympics is more important than the IFSC. I don't think so.

@@NickRoman Agreed. The olympics format was a disaster

@@NickRoman they kinda are ! In a certain way it's more of a country sided compétition. So it's a honor to gain medals

@@NickRoman what's ifsc? olympics is known to everyone

@@NoNameAtAll2 international federation of sport climbing

even without hes a serious candidate for first with his ability to place high in lead and boulder. In IFSCs combined championships last hear he could have not competed in speed and he still would have placed first.

@@shadowmage680 Yes, exactly. I know he is top in bouldering and almost top in lead (meaning, I would not place him in top 3 lead, but he is excellent anyway) as well. I was just surprised with his speed performance (I don't follow speed at all). I am an Ondra fan, but seeing Tomoa win gold would not be a disappointment for me.

I think he will win the olympics. Being probably the best boulderer and still crazy good at speed, I think if he places well in lead he’s going to win.

Tomoa is my pick for gold. I'd guess Adam will take silver. It's Tokyo, the boulders are gonna be pretty dynamic.

@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 I think Ondra has the ability to win but under pressure (because of speed) is shown that he can massivily fail just as in hachioji

Wow, that comment made me feel smart

I would have loved to go in serious detail about the Fosbury flop as a former high jumper myself, but I didn't want to make the intro too long. There are great videos out there that explain the physics and history out there that explain it more in detail than I was able to.

@@AlbertOkay tbh, it'd be better to remove it entirely vs omitting a key point.

IT'S REAL!

Thanks! Appreciate the comment!

He's so agile!

Heck yes and thank you so much for watching! I'll keep it up as much as I can!

Thank you!

Thanks so much for the comment!

Thanks val! I already feel like I've gotten so popular it's amazing! Thanks so much for the support!

Ha american

There is nothing to be scared of

Climbing since 3 months now here in germany

Where do u live? In Chicago I’ve been climbing since July 6th

Go climb outside

Thanks String King hope you rule the string well king!

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks Stefan!

Thanks for the comment!

Ayy thanks Albert- Albert

You're welcome Albert! - Albert

I'll make longer episodes in the future! Had a busy week this week. :)

Check out his instagram instagram.com/tomoa_narasaki/

thanks

Kind of!

Yep

with this new technic you save one foot placement, so maybe that 0.02 sec you need to get faster

From what I understand, you have to get permission from Guinness to break a WR before the attempt. Then you have an official on hand to verify and you only get 3 tries. Magnus Mitdbø recently did a couple of videos where he "breaks" world records. Here's the first one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZLUcCc-nLps.html They talk about some of the rules at 2:44 & 19:57 (but watch the whole thing, it's pretty cool!)

@@arenlykos2421 that's only for guiness world records. Usain bolt didnt get permission from guiness for his world records

@@arenlykos2421 Guinness is shit, they became too commercial ale give out records for everything. That being said, I think the sport records are governed by different body, such as some Olympic committee, or that sport's federation.

I think it's because the event wasn't officially recognised. I would have to refer to the original video, but I suspect the equipment might not be a hundred percent official, might be a small regional Indonesian event.

Great question! So walls have to be officiated in order for the records to count as official. Differences in walls can be slight variations in angle, texture, hold positions, etc. Events such as world cups, olympics, and some other events have the walls confirmed official before the event and in this case the wall wasn't confirmed ahead of time so it didn't count. I have no doubt that a performance like Leonardo's could be repeated on an official wall, but we'll have to see in the future if that happens!

Don't try out of bounds skips in real life.

Reza uses the far left foothold and puts up his right foot when going from the first speed hold. Tomoa entirely skips the far left foothold and puts his left foot on the first speed hold.

@@jonathanw6884 but is the Tomoa skip faster than the Reza? Both seem similar to me and maybe it depends on personal preference?

​@@aspuzling Theoretically the Tomoa Skip is slightly better in terms of physics as it it doesn't require the climber to shift their center of gravity even further to the left to hit the far left foothold. When it comes to a sprint, the more time you spend going straight the better as it is more efficient use of your energy.

@@aspuzling it is pretty similar but the execution for the Reza is a bit strength base while the Tomoa skip is more to technical and flexibility by doing a dyno step on the second hold.

Thanks to all the great commentators for explaining it for me!

Reza places his foot on a lower left foot hold to skip the left hand hold. Tomoa skips that foothold as well and instead performs the step-up move, saving a bit of time (the time it would take to place your foot on the left, since this new move is done within one fluid motion)

YEET

Specifically talking about what holds are used, yes, although it's the third foothold and not the second. The Reza skips the 4th hand. The Tomoa skips the 4th hand & the 3rd foot.

Somebody come get her she dancing like a..

I think it was a german youth event

Okay sorry

That's a great question! So there are a few events a year - world cups and olympic games for example that the walls that the competitors are using are officially verified. The wall Leonardo climbed on might have met the standards for officials, but since it wasn't officiated for the event the record doesnt stand. Differences in wall angles, texture, hold positions,etc. Can all result as the wall being invalid

@@AlbertOkay thanks for the explanation, and for the killer vids! Unfortunate for Leonardo haha

@@josephchen920 Yeah haha, honestly though I think he can break the record on an official wall in the future. He's so fast all he needs is one good day!

Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5] It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]