I made my own tone bars with a brass rod and installed them on two of my home built guitars. Both improved, but one of them is just a cannon now. Great innovation. I hardly ever break a string, so if I do, it's a good time to put a new set on.
I installed the product “Power Pins” in my acoustic guitar years ago. Not only have these replacement pins brightened the sound, the guitar is noticeably louder, and replacing strings is easier.
Yes, I agree. Tone bar does improve the clarity and be my mid-60s and I can tell this. I can still tune by the ear etc I don't think I'll be joining you on this one. I don't want to wreck my evasion semi-acoustic. It's been my lifeline for some time now thank you for the video and demos and I'll appreciate and watch out for more videos. Wonderful! Keep up the nice work!
Hello Nick, ToneBar here, the material is solid brass and a proprietary dimension that is made just for the ToneBar, so sorry no hardware store. that was a great video thank you, I have put a Tonebar in over a hundred guitars, you are right it gives more clarity and sustain and with that you can hear the overtones. I have more videos coming with a single, double, triple, quad, and 5 string Tonebars , thank you sir for a great fair and honest review, you should hear a double ToneBar in a 12 string. thank you so much. if you want ToneBar to send more for different guitar reviews please let me know
I got this set for my Gretsch Rancher acoustic electric that has a brass saddle, brass pins, and a brass nut for $15. And sounds amazing. You'll see them online.
My first reaction to the sound bar was how much brighter the sound was, but stayed the same while finger picking :) I think my GPC martin would benefit with the sound bar, as you have to push it to get treble from it :)
Thank you for doing this. I think there are other, more positive, ways to affect tonal quality like changing to a bone saddle etc. and ensuring there is a proper intonation set up. Thanks again, I've been a player for 45+ years so I know a little bit about guitar tone. You've earned my sub.
Appreciate you. I agree and I think it’s also sometimes understated that tone is in the hands. I’ve heard people play some of the most beautiful sounding things on some pretty cheap instruments.
There is an item available called a guitar bridge pin hole repair plate. There used to be another name for it, but I don't remember what it was. It is a flat brass piece that has holes for the bridge pins in it. The string rests against the brass instead of the wood bridge block. I have one in my '70s J45/50. I would like to hear a comparison in the sound of these and the tonebar. It is cheap, and it doesn't affect how you restring your guitar. It has similar affect on the tone of the guitar, as far as I can tell. It seems like a better option. Having to take all the strings off to change one string is kind of a deal breaker with the tone bar. I don't break strings often, but inevitably it will happen at the worst time.
I’m replacing the Mitchell Plate Mate on my D28 with a piece of copper wire and reinstalling the pins.That product makes a noticeable difference on midrange gain especially on my 12 string.
HI Nick. Good video. I think it would be interesting to do this as a "blind sound test". Our ears often hear what we are told they will hear. Most You tube videos by major manufacturers would fail if the audience didn't see the guitars being played. In your video, I am sure that half the listeners would guess wrong if they didn't know which clip used the tone bar.
Hi Nick. Thanks for not taking my input as a critique. I am currently running a whole series of video comparisons of my own invention, as well as such other alternative approaches as the Bridge Doctor, Power Pins, and now the Tone Bar. In most cases, if a difference is audible, it is because the device is adding mass to the soundboard. For instance the Bridge Doctor adds about 33 grams (for the version without the brass pins. That is like having a second bridge on the guitar. Obviously, this brings down the resonant frequency of the soundboard. Brass pins add about 27 grams.So, what folks hear with each of these is more bass and less treble. I am going to do a blind sound test in which I glue brass pins on top of the bridge. It should sound the same as brass pins installed in the bridge. With the Tone bar, it is the same. I asked a luthier friend who has built acoustics for many of the stars, and he agrees with me that the vibrations end almost entirely at the saddle. There should not be any significant effect at the string ball ends. The effect will be almost entirely that of "suggesting" that a difference should be heard. If you don't do the test soon, I will buy a tone bar and do my own test on our channel. If you are interested, please check us out. Best, Reyn
Hi Nick, just wanted to share, Dennis showed how to make an emergency repair if a string was to break. Simply cut off the broken string near the bridge, push the leftover string into the hole then cut of the end of a pin enough to hold a new string in without messing with the Tonebar very much. put the ball of the string into the string hole with the pin and you have your temporary fix. You are correct that we should support these men and women that take the time to find ways to improve the things we use. The time they have spent can never be reclaimed, so let's do our part and compensate their effort with the purchase of their product, especially if it works well.
So what you're saying is just use brass or stainless pins and skip all this hand in the sound hole business to change strings all together if you gig. Got it.
Hmm... do you get paid for this post? There is some legit criticism on the product, and the inventors reply to this criticism was not so productive, from what I heard. 😊
I had one installed on a martin road series guitar. Definitely brighter and more sustain. I'm back to bridge pins now because my main guitar is an om28 and it sound good as is.
Definitely! Usually if I break a string, I will replace them all anyway but if I ever needed to do a quick fix for just one string, it’s out of the question.
@@nick_reiner My thoughts exactly. I tried to be constructive in my criticism of the designer's oversight but received a pretty negative comment as did others so on that alone I would not support his business.
@ellenrik , don't worry be happy Ellen. Everyone gets hit by trolls on RU-vid now and then. I definitely hear your thoughts, many do. My friend is advancing the tonebar design creating individual tonebars as pin replacement and different "internal bridgeTM" system. So you are a part of the solution, not the problem. I'd forgive and forget. You done good.
I have installed the 'Tonebar' on my Martin GPCPA4 as a possible delay in getting the neck reset since the break angle at the saddle is pretty low. I am surprised at the change. While not like an OMG change, it does have more volume, sustain and clarity.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce and post this comparison. I went back and forth several times, taking small chunks of your before and after playing, and I am surprised that I do hear a difference, although ever so slightly. I do not have any high end equipment, so maybe better sound equipment will help discern more of a difference. The after seems only a little brighter, and only with the pick, when picking with fingers I couldn't hear any difference. Honestly, I like the before sound better; it's more mellow. I can see how brighter on that guitar could be a little bit strident if you really dig in with a pick. By the way, regarding the broken string issue: he says all you have to do is shorten a pin so that it will rest in the hole correctly and replace that string only. Here's the problem with that: the tone bar, securely resting right in the middle of the hole, will be in the way of feeding the ball end far enough to wedge between the pin and the bridge, and even if it fits below the shortened pin, will pull the pin right out because of no wedge.
Appreciate your feedback. One thing I should have mentioned in the video, I would really only consider this for a cheaper acoustic and not a high-end instrument. I view it as a kinda fun cheap alternative to replacing all your bridge pins/nut/saddle with higher end components.
I don't think its a gimmick...your observations are accurate and from playing, recording, using my ears and mics for years Id add a couple of points I can hear -even on computers speaker. 1) I think on ending chord because there are actually more overtones, maybe due to the smarter way vibration is transmitted, it makes a broader sweeter tone which also seems more defined because there is subtly more complexity to it, especially in high mids and mainly on top. Maybe in some way, plastic pins and the suspended ball end, deaden certain frequencies making them sound a tad compressed, tho to some this might not be discernible . I associate this response with a desirable tho hard to describe more liquid less boxy overall/ treble sound. One chord I heard an easily discernible additional overtone pop out making a more complex sound with a more balanced detailed top end. I would imagine if compared on a spectrum analyzer the bar tone would have richer or more even distribution of many frequencies maybe even some boosted highs or just more accurately represented proportionally, in the top end and high low mids, less attenuated frequencies, and definitely bass improved. So many peizo bridge equipped guitars often seem to lack a bit of top end..when miced. I hear a difference from using plastic end pins and the last chord had way more notable sustain, less "compressed" sounding , more even range of frequencies, which suddenly made the mic's high treble response pick up a silvery something that wasn't there before. I wonder if Id hear a difference with like walrus tusk bridge pins, but im not the walrus :)
I got 5 - most excellent sound reinforcement for an acoustic guitar I've ever come across. ALL my friends have at least one of their guitars with a tone bar installed.
I hate to point this out, but the guy's not a very good inventor. You can get a thin 3"x0.5" piece of brass or aluminum (or almost any metal) drill 6 holes in it and do the same thing, and that way if a string breaks it's no big deal. The device in the video *will* improve sound by adding a little more metal so the strings resonate better, and also by using the metal to connect all the strings together to create some cross resonation. Plus you're getting more string to wood contact for a slightly richer sound. I say "improve" but in reality every player might not want that. Also, not everyone's a handyman, but if you've got a friend or family that can make what I mentioned, ask them for a favor. Avoiding the nightmare of changing a string with that thing on your guitar will be worth it. As well, there are tutorials on switching from slotted pegs to unslotted pegs, which accomplishes almost the same thing sound-wise, but again you'll be able to change a broken string normally. I would suggest either of those altercations before giving yourself a migraine with that thing. Great video by the way, very concise and well done.
@nick_reiner I just read a comment on the thread about switching to metal string pegs (had no idea they made them) and THAT would be the easiest and very practical way to go, to pretty closely achieve what the "Sound Bar" does. You won't get cross resonation though. I also wanted to point out none of these changes are going to create some drastic groundbreaking difference in sound quality. So if you dont like messing with your guitar just leave it alone, it's not worth the trouble. I wanna explain too, by adding more metal to your acoustic and giving the strings a metal "common point" you're kind of turning it into a steel top resonater guitar. Which I have pointed out, might not be for everyone.
Personally I have a Martin Street Master, I wouldn't do a thing to it. Sounds fine the way it is. An added warning is, if you're using any kind of a pickup system on an acoustic and running it through an amp, any metal you connect the strings to is going to cause it to feedback more.
My 2 cents: 1. If you remove old strings and put them back, they will usually sound better (closer to new ones) just by this procedure as they settle a bit differently. 2. Similar (or same) effect can be achieved by using unslotted pins and if someone likes metallic sound, they can always use some kind of metal pins.
@@charliemurphy3529 I have not tried metal pins as they sound too metallic to my taste, in various reviews. I tried bone ones on a non-massive guitar and ebony on masive (as this was already live sounded Yamaha even before, I did not want to make it too loud with bones). Both replacements were good enough.
Thanks! I’ve had that guitar for about 18 years. It’s actually just an entry level Ibanez but it’s been great. Sorry to hear the Tonebar didn’t do much for your guitar.
I get vibration sometimes where the ball end is against the plastic pin. This would eliminate that. I think I will put one on my acoustic. It sounds a bit brighter in tone and less volume difference between strings. PS, that is probably brass, which is slightly stronger than copper.
What’s funny is I had brass in my notes before I made this video and I wasn’t until I started reading comments that I realized I said copper the whole time.
@@nick_reiner , no worries brother. I doubt anyone expects you to be a metalurgist. One thing I was looking at, if it is too bright, since I am into warmer, richer tones, I was going to try flat wound strings or half round wound strings and experiment with tone. I play 13-56 acoustic, because I am into rich tone. PS, not much worry of breaking a string on a 13-56 set
Run this through a head to head spectrum analyzer and you can see exactly where the changes are. It sounds slightly more resonant to me. I’m wondering how you get a patent on a shape and a piece of wire though.
Different guitars will probably require different applications. On this guitar, perhaps using bridge pins on low "E", "A", and "D" strings and ToneBar for the high strings, if at all possible? To my ear the ToneBar took too much of the bass strings character away.
My 63 yo ears through pc speakers could slightly detect some additional treble with the tone bar. It was so close that I'm not sure it wasn't my imagination. But, like I say, it's 63 yo ears and pc speakers.
That’s a good idea and I would be curious to hear the difference…if I get some better pins down the line, I will for sure make another comparison video. I’d also be curious to hear the difference with better bridge & nut material than the cheap plastic that’s on that guitar.
I love gadgets cause its about innovation. Computer speakers may not have done it justice, I went back and forth several times and didn't notice something that would warrant the hassle
Does it create an adverse effect if you install your bridge pins and the tone bar at the same time, to the sound. Would it not be better just adding bell brass pins.?
Changing strings is a nightmare. I don't see/hear anyone mentioning you have to take all the strings off at once to change strings. That's a BIG change in pressure/stress on the neck. It's best to change strings one at a time to keep consistent pressure on the neck.
The last thing that the strings contact (pinch point) is the bridge saddle..... What is happening on the other side of the bridge plate saddle is irrelevant. Much like the the headstock side of the nut....ie, the tuner posts. They have no effect on tone. Same with a fretted note. Fret the 5th position on the low E (A note) and pick the note and let it sustain. The new pinch-point is the fret wire just in front of your finger holding down the string....Now,..even the nut itself is irrelevant.
What you wrote is not exactly true. Your demonstration can prove why not: In your demonstration, the 5th fret is analogous to the saddle and the finger/fret board is analogous the ball end of the string'/back side of the bridge plate. When you press the string down in the right place with enough force, the string can produce a clear tone. However, let up on the finger pressure and you will immediately hear why what is happening on the nut-sit of the fret is critical. Move your finger toward the nut and you will also hear why what is happening on the nut-sit of the fret is critical. Going back to the bridge, a traditional guitar depends on the strong ball ends to get pulled up against the bridge plate. That allows the string to be tensioned across the saddle. Over time, on a guitar that gets played and has the strings changed periodically, the bridge plate will suffer deformation and damage from the ball ends. The ball ends will not seat properly against a damaged bridge plate. This is analogous to the finger not being placed on a fretboard at the right spot with the proper force. A gadget like the ToneBar makes a rigid, non-deformable platform from which the strings are anchored.
@jimwing.2178 when you play any note that isn't open,.. you have eliminated the nut from having any impact on the note being heard. And if the guitar is equipped with a tailpiece or "stop" behind the bridge saddles, it is irrelevant to the bridge saddles, unless it is bending or breaking as you are playing. Open notes have a nut saddle pinch point, and the bridge saddles are pinch points for each string. If this weren't true, you could not set the intonation because you need two pinch points on each end of the string and then a way to shorten amd lengthen the distance between the two points. It is THIS that effectively eatablishes string length and thus intonation. If there is any issue with the bridge saddles, YOU MUST repair the issue because every note, both fretted note and open notes, are dependent upon the bridge saddle slots and stability, along with the guitar's all important, intonation. The nut is a huge factor as well in the same ways, with only one exception found when you play a fretted note (any note that isn't open).
@jimwing.2178 So, to be very clear, the things that are not the pinch points themselves and things that are not between the two pinch points are irrelevant as far as any tonal or sonic impact. This includes "clarity" The tuning pegs, behind the nut, do NOT affect the tone, and the tailpiece behind the bridge saddles does NOT affect the tone.
@@stricknine8623 You are just as wrong the second time as you were the first time that you wrote it. The components that are not between the pinch points affect what is happening at the pinch points.
@@nick_reiner I made brass pins for my cheap el Degas laminate guitar 43 years ago, they are still on it and yes it changed the tone quite a bit, the question becomes, is it the change you want? It was certainly "brighter" and louder but if you have a nice Martin with a rich tone...
Not copper I believe it is brass or possibly bronze I think finding the right diameter of wire might be a problem.Again not copper also I think that the material matters also.
You'd be better off spending the ten dollars, on some bone 5mm unspotted pins, and ream the holes wider, and cut the slots yourself, 100%improve the tone of your acoustic guitar
Dude, what are you doing uploading videos about sound quality/timbre/tone etc that are SO COMPRESSED that it renders this exercise completely superfluous! How can any of us hear any tonal difference between the two sounds when every other micro second of the audio is static noise? Mad. Mental even. Sorry if this sounds like a troll but honesty what is the point in doing this? Upload in a less compressed format if you want people who also play / record music / want to consume your content to watch and listen. I thought that you’re a natural broadcast personality type though and the format issue is my only grievance. Anyway, rant over, cheers! Alex
Stupid. No difference, it’s all in your head because it’s new and you’re wanting to hear a difference. Like you said if you break a string you’re screwed. You gotta reach in the guitar and all that every time you change the strings and I bet it was “Pretty simple “ . Because it’s a stupid idea a group of people will buy it but realize how dumb it is , never buy another one, the guy will go out of business, everyone that owns one will have it eventually break and go back to pins.
