Not sure what this says about me, but if I'm watching television while glancing at the tablet (Bad, I know); whenever is see a new video thumbnail featuring Stefan, TOT or Clickspring, I immediately pause the TV and watch the video. Don't recall ever having regretted it either.
@@mpetersen6 Then you'd probably want to go over to Keith Appleton's channel. Model Steam Engines and such. Occasionally does painting and watching it dry! 😉😉 Still better than most anything on TV!
When I was a stupid (in the estimation of some journeymen, not me of course, I KNEW everything) apprentice I did not have any chamfering tools yet. So I decided to make my own out of an oil hard steel (L6). Of course the journeyman i was assigned to, "those will never work, because blah, blah, blah. Well they did and I used them for a longggggg time. Remember boys and girls when an expert tells you something won't work, they're usually right. But when an "expert" (ie a know it all aka Norm from Cheers) tells you something wo t work he's often wrong. So don't be afraid to try something off the wall. If it works that's great. If it doesnt, well thats good too. Because you learned something. And this doesnt apply to just machining. But life in general.
No one ever wrote any books about someone playing it safe, and you never see a statue of a critic, And you never see a hurse with a Uhual behind it. So there!
@@StefanGotteswinter But you also do grind for a living. And unlike them, you also are the one who is actually gonna use the tools that you ground, so you have insight and feedback they don't. Although, they probably have automated tool testing, and if they need to know if 10.5° relief is better than 10.4° they can just make a thousand of each and chamfer through a cubic mile of steel.
Great video, thank you! Every time I see a d-bit grinder I like them more. Robin’s video on the mods he did on his is really epic. I hope to have one one day.
Would love to see a build video soon. A tool build. The videos like the squareness comparator type videos I find the most useful (to me), since I can’t find a tool grinder or d-bit grinder within 200 km of here... I enjoy building tools and gathering ideas from videos like that (I built your squareness comparator. I’m using it currently in the gargantuan task of rescraping my whole lathe back in....
200 km isn't very far, esp to find a took you are going to buy one time. I drive 72 km to school and another 72 km home everyday. That's almost your 200 km.
what works, works. if we kept with traditional ways to do stuff all the time we would probably still be trying to go around on square wheels !!!!!! Great video.
Nice work,,i have a big snapped off drill bit that's going to get treatment...I don't have a tool grinder but I'll find a way to do it on the little horizontal mill made into a make shift surface grinder.
As an apprentice toolmaker I was taught how to use our clarkson tool and cutter grinder. I have one of my own and still use it to sharpen,make and modify my own cutters. It has saved me so much money. Chipped carbide cutters are worth next to nothing as scrap and I collect a lot of them from machine shops. This gives me a lot of really nice cutters for little more than some time. Cutting your own tools essential for anybody keen on saving lots of money in their own machine shop. Cutting rounded tip cutters takes some skill but well worth mastering. Have you tried it?
Last time I got my scrap carbide to the recycling place, it was about 300Eur ;) I can do rounded (Full/partial/offsenter) radius tools on the dbit grinder. I need that occasional for lathe tooling.
Stefan, with regards to you setting the cutter on the red grinder and using a scale, you already have a setting gauge BUILT IN. It is the flat bar that is set into the collet block, it is fixed to a pin that is in a reamed hole that is on centerline with the indexer.You just have it sitting there in front of you, READ your Instruction manual. You can raise it up to any height ( within reason ) to suit your cutter. If it is not mentioned because of the Chinese conversion language, then Google the genuine Deckel SO 1. I know that using it will give you the vertical location, so just index 90 degrees or whatever to orientated it to horizontal. When you find out what it does, you will kick yourself for not using it, instead of machining the indexer and sodding about with a scale.
I know about the setting gage and I know how to use it. And I know how bad it is to be used on multiflute tools. Personal note: I generaly asume the other person knows more than myself and has already thoroughly tought about what he is doing.
@@StefanGotteswinter Translated the personal note goes like this "shut up moron i know what i am doing, who the hell are you to try and tell me something". Do you have any idea how arrogant that sounds?
Thanks for the video. Excellent. I like your method of aligning the flutes of the tool on the D-bit grinder. This has been an issue for me every time i use mine for something like this.
Lol damn Stefan yo were Johny on the spot at that first. Very nice rework of the chamfers, keep them in service as long as possible or make special cutters for a job.
I regrind carbide tools for a living and I’ve seen the same style of tool made 10 different ways whether it be Guhring or Walter, every company has their twist on things
I have an idea for orienting the cutter in the grinder more easily. Instead of using a scale or eyeballing it, why not make a bar that's 55.5 mm long with a magnet on one end so you can stick it to the flat you machined. Then you can just rotate the cutter until the flute touches the bar. Should be quicker, less fiddly, and more precise.
Could you clarify this: Could I accomplish everything in this video with just the tool & cutter grinder, or do I need both machines? I know the tool & cutter grinder is more flexible and capable, but does that also mean it’s a total PITA to use for more common tasks done on the D-bit grinder?
A full t&c grinder can anything and more than a dbit grinder, but its way more setup work. So if I can, I use the dbit grinder for almost everything possible and the t&c grinder only for specialised setups.
Is it possible to redress a diamond cup wheel that is worn to a dished shape to run flat on it's side again? What should be used for this purpose, diamond nib? Or some other material?
I usually start off sharpening my drill bits but I always end up making very sharp punches..... So basically I'm a pro at this stuff. Call me if you need advice... 😂😂😂
the real question is, how do you cut the flutes using the single lip grinder now? lol. Pretty cool video and looks like an easy way to make a nice countersink, lol.
Thanks for the video and the clear and easy to follow instructions. Have you tried your cutters to de-bur drilled holes? I have posted a couple of RU-vid videos of my T and C experiences however they pale compared to yours.
I don't know much about this stuff. How does a production tool grinder maintain the corners of their wheels, when grinding a bunch of these? Seems like it would be a pretty significant issue??
They will rough them in, to the point Stefan did, then use a wheel with a sharp corner to cut that last little bit. Then when it wears they can use it as the roughing wheel. You can also dress the wheel and bring back the sharp corner, but you lose a lot of the abrasive material when you do that. That's why Stefan didn't do it, but they probably would in a production shop. Since the finishing wheel is only cutting a little bit, it can be dressed relatively easily.
14:27 Can anyone clarify what he means by "indicator" as opposed to "dial test indicator"? Is he referring to a plunger style indicator? I can't find anything that's just called an "indicator". Thanks!
Stefan: Tool and cutter grinder vs. surface grinder? I have no space for both in my workshop and I will not grind big parts. Like surface grinding capacity of 200mmx100mm would be enough but I need to do OD and ID grinding. Would it be possible to mount a magnetic chuck on a tool grinder and do small surface grinding? I really would appreciate your input. Thank you for your wounderfull videos!
If I could only have one, it would be a surface grinder. Or a very substancial tool/cutter grinder. But most t&c grinders are not good at surfacegrinding, while a surface grinder can do most other tasks with a bit of creativity very well.
@@StefanGotteswinter Thank you very much! So now I only have to find one which fits through my door (90cm) without to much disassembly and is in a decent enough condition.....
Stefan, thank you for this very interesting video. Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new (even if I've already seen it ;). I wish I had a better grinder than a _cheap_ bench grinder! On another topic, have you (or Robin, if he's reading these comments) ever measured the accuracy of an edge finder? The type that kicks off to the side when it contacts the edge? G. H. Thomas wrote (in his "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual") about measuring a .0005-inch (0.0127-mm) error in his edge finder. I'm now curious about how much inaccuracy is really there and wonder how (little?/much?) that affects the work done by Precision Machinists.
Thanks! The normal edge finders are crazy accurate and repeatable - I find them accurate beyond 0,01mm (total and repeating) - Proven on a darn accurate cnc machine with linear scales.
@@StefanGotteswinter That's good to hear. I've also wondered how good they were, and suspected that I might be losing precision there. I get really anal when I'm indicating on my little CNC mill. Clean and deburr everything, do the final steps in 0.0001" increments, then back off and check a second time.
Since 0.01mm is approximately 0.0004-inches, then I guess Machinists working to extremely "tight" dimensions & tolerances must use some other device to locate the "true" edge of a part? Of course, you _did_ say "accurate beyond 0,01mm (total and repeating)," so they are obviously "better than" 0.0004-in. That's certainly closer than I can work with the machinery & "skills" that I have, at least for now. I hope to be able to spend more time in my workshop before too long and improve my skills.
I liked that intentional head placement, makes the while video alot more personal...real... not like the scripted stuff from tony, adam and others. Keep it real!!!
@@gatekeeper84 See... clearly with a crew of 30 people behind him making sure everything looks authentic as possible and in reality he is sitting in a car in a studio!!!
Hey Stefan, have you ever tried to make the chamfer tools with variable or differential pitch? Would that have any benefit, specially on bigger cutters?
That finger is to align single flute cutters/d bits vertical to the spindle of the dividing head. Needed for grinding and regrinding the radial relief on them.
Tried it and that eliminates using a ruler to set an end mill horizontal! Set the dial for 90, line it up then rotate to zero... Thanks for the tip!!!!
Or one of those nasty unlubed condoms that are like bigger powdered finger cots. My dad used to put them on my RC car, to cover the speed control wipers, and it wasn't till I got a bit older did I know what they were.
Don't you get a lot of oil mixed with metal dust running down the shank and under the aluminium (tin) foil into the collet? Perhaps some masking tape to seal the protective sheath?
In order to cut closer to the center, I've seen a 4 flute chamfer mill that takes 2 opposing flutes to the center and I believe used a small gash on the other two flutes to prevent them from getting in the way at the tip. This means the 2 opposing flutes can be cut slightly past the center of the tool to avoid having to use a perfectly sharp grinding wheel. This seemed like a good compromise to keep the advantages of the 4 flute but keep the ability to cut chamfers into very sharp corners. Perhaps something to give a try? Edit: Here's one.. twitter.com/HarveyTool/status/1172526713164783617
SG: thanks for providing videos that make me (have to) think... ~~grin I hope there is a useful answer to this without requiring much more than the Bench grinder, stones, files that I already have... at a 'scrapyard' recently, they had a large bin of twist-drill-bits, taps, Center-drills, Counter Sinks... etc from some large shop's waste collection... I got 6-8 pounds( 16 oz Av) thinking I could perfect(start?) a hand-sharpening skill... Specifically, can a center-drill be "touched up", improved or sharpened to provide a more useful tool-bit ? Am I limited to reShaping the very end-tip ? Any ideas, anyone... thanks 'ToyFJ40'
Awesome video as always💪👌 Btw, with these grinding wheel adaptors can you run the wheel both direction, or does your t&c cutter have a left threaded spindle?
Yes, they can run in both directions - The washer between the wheel and nut is keyed to the adaptor and the adaptor itself sits on a selflocking taper.
Mr Gotteswinter, re 24:10 where you exclaim ow was that in German or English? I have never considered until know whether ow was a multilingual exclamation. 24:10 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yT-Juqgq8z8.html
Why not make a 55,5 mm long tool that you use to put your edge against..... which you obvioulsy thouthg abut as well, when I continue to watch..... should learn to watch the whole thing before commenting.