That color really takes me back. The inside of the cab of our M270 Multiple Launch Rocket System. I’m sure I have some in my lungs somewhere from countless hours spent in one.
Hey Tom, great getting to see the thought for odd setups, I'll be starting learning the grinder at work soon. Since you were talking on squarness I would love to see a follow-up on your hand made composite square master. I had to engine turn a "proof of concept" part for SpaceX
The center in that one makes me consider cylindrical grinding on that part, make it kind of a cylinder square combo. Also you should be able to get all 4 sides parrallel and straight pretty easy that way.
re: why the centre. I'd guess the fluting and maybe the squaring was done on horizontal mill and dividing head with one end supported with a tailstock.
Hey Tom, nice restoration job! And I fully agree with NOT "removing the spirit from the tool". Some person, someone that loved their tools and their profession, made that. Those marks are their fingerprints on the tool.
Way to go Tom great show we are watching now commenting as we are watching here. Chance to own a piece of the great products, this is going to be really nice. Lance & Patrick.
I agree with the idea of the center being added for tailstock support while milling the grooves, but in addition I would add that the center would be useful in practice during fabrication and fixture/assembly alignment. If you had a block with matching cross-section dimensions of the square column and a hole in the middle to attach a fitted plumb line, then you could line up edges/corners/features over fairly large distances by aligning the plumb with the centerhole.
Restoration videos are not my thing normally, but I really enjoyed that your attention to detail and thought process are truly inspiring, thanks for a great watch. Al.
I think you could make the bigger square adjustable by placing an appropriately sized ball bearing between the two screws to act as a pivot point. Also what would you think of a similar style square using a drill rod for the upright and make it adjustable in the way I mentioned above? I expect that it would clamp true to the V groove and provide a good reference even though you couldn't scribe with one edge. Your thoughts?
Very nice work, Tom! Is your current grinder a B&S Micromaster? I have that same B&S mag chuck, but I do not have the diamond nib attachment on the left end -- yet, but will soon... Great idea, keeps it handy for immediate use, yet completely out of the way. I had not seen anything like that before, well worth the price of admission.
Awesome! I'm guessing it's well out of my price range (would LOVE to support... but...) Anyway - lovely work of precision art and tool... as usual... :)
20 $ is not cheap... you should see the second hand market in Switzerland, I bought a tiny Jacquot watchmakers lathe for 10$ (just the brass it is made of cost at least 10 time this). So many people sell grand-dad's tools without a clue of what its worth. Someone's junk is often treasure to my eyes ! Love the video by the way !
Trivia: seafoam green was a stock auto color during the 40s, 50s and 60s. Fender guitars used stock auto colors for their custom color guitars and basses, and seafoam green was one of the more desirable colors. One of the color combinations Chevy used in '46 was seafoam green and volunteer green (very dark green) fenders. seafoam green and white was more common, 'vettes, pickups, even Ramblers and Land Rovers used it. Good choice of color, I didn't know they used it inside tanks...not a military guy myself, but knew the color from cars and guitars. :) EDIT: had an after thought...could you use the center in the end on a mill or lathe to use in aligning the mill head or checking the tailstock alignment? It must have a purpose, it seems odd that such a nice tool would be left with a machining wart, so it must have a purpose.🤔
I have a bunch of those reduced shank (??, is that what you'd call them?) Allen wrenches setup with a square drive. Even for regular heads, when you want to put the whale on top of them, there's nothing quite like it. Even my old faithfuls, a Stanley set that i bought many years ago can't compare.
Seafoam Green is also the color used to indicate military ordnance items containing Phosphorous - whether red or white. Usually there will be a yellow stripe indicating HE/high explosive filler as well for a burster component.
This is 2 years ago and rewatching anyway Tom and I can't see the depth of the hole at the end but I would think if it's deep enough it would be for a small scribe...Ricko
Shouldn`t you have set the vblock diagonally on the flat mag chuck in that vmag clamp, as to present the wheel with a wider area that would reduce the grooving of the wheel? Traversing all the way merely smooths out the grove or makes more of them, depending on the wheel step-over per reciprocation... I mean, im no master grinder, i just recently picked up a s.g. in need of restoration, so my experience with s.g. is standing before her, marveling at artwork that is such a machine... But i have spent last 15 years in love with and learning about machines, so i do have some heavy theory foundations, and this seems to contradict every book approach to thin area grinding i have seen... Apart from that, that s.g. is a beauty and so is the finish she produces, along with the rest of the equipment you displayed... Some really nice stuff...
Hi i watched some of your shows and see that you have a full shop in the back ground .The question is ,this a hobby or you use this shop to do jobs for a business ? You do nice work showing the next future how something is made . There are less people that know this trade of machine shops in this country . Just keep up the good work .
Watch his UC Berkeley tour on NYC CNC. I believe he talks about what he does on that. (Although it's been years since I've watched it.) But his home shop is for hobby mostly.
Another OxTool classic restoration. I was wondering what the nozzle of the coolant delivery system was originally, fluid delivery for a precision piece of lab equipment ?
Agree. You do store up some energy in winding up the shaft - energy that isn't going to do anything useful but takes effort and tells your wrist that you're trying hard when in effect it's kinda cushioning the effect of your efforts. If you calibrate your screw-breaking effort in terms of: 'I'm gonna swing on it like this and experience tells me it should come loose', then the winding-up will probably reduce the torsional force you exert. Certainly will if you're hitting the wrench with a hammer - or palm of your hand.
I’ve always wondered about this. I don’t think the amount of windup ‘takes away’ from the amount of torque that is transmitted to the bolt. The shaft of the screwdriver is behaving just like a simple spring. The amount of windup is directly proportional to the torque applied x the spring constant. The difference between ‘a lot’ of windup and a ‘little bit’ of windup at the same torque is directly a function of the stiffness of the screwdriver i.e. the spring constant.
@@davidbrayton1143 You're right the wind-up doesn't change the fact that the torsional force is the same at each end of a shaft. But consider that when we swing on a tool we are usually to some degree acting like a hammer rather than a careful torque wrench - we're performing a dynamic, moving action on the tool and just as a spring will reduce the effect of a hammer blow, (imagine a thick sheet of rubber over the nail head) the shaft windup will probably affect the amount of torque that we apply if we're not used to using a springy tool. Certainly does reduce the effect of an impact wrench of you stick an extension in between the power tool and the socket. So I think the effect is to screw with the calibration of your wrist as you turn the tool. Edit: come to think of it, we're just so completely accustomed to stiff tools that springy ones cause us to overestimate the degree to which we're turning the fastener. We equate motion of the handle with motion of the fastener and tightness of the fastener. So if you use a 'joke' tool that breaks one of those relationships, it's that that breaks the calibration of the wrist.
The green color or slight variation of the color has been used for shop machines and the inside of locomotive cabs, cabooses, and common areas of passenger cars for years because it is easily cleaned and does not show dirt, oil, grease, and grime as readily as other colors.
5:10 if you rotate a skewed regular shape like a parallelogram 180°, then it will still be identical. If you flip it around the perpendicular axis, you can do it with an even sided trapezoid too. You need both rotations for proof
Actually engine turning, jeweling, etc are the correct and accepted terms. Engine turning seems to be used the most for non gun parts like on automotive and aircraft, and the jeweling term used more by gunsmiths and gun owners. Lathes were once commonly referred to as engine lathes and turning can obviously be done on them. I believe the engine lathe term was once used more often to describe that a power driven lathe was being referred to and not a foot or bow powered type of lathe. Since those types are now so rare we've just shortened it to lathe today. But proper engine turning or jeweling is easiest done with a vertical spindle like a drill press or mill. A lathe could be used if the part to be engine turned was set up much like it would be for milling in a lathe. Double check with Google and you'll find engine turning is quite correct. Any reference to the Spirit of St. Louis and it's cowl that I've read always calls it engine turning.
@@turningpoint6643 Engine turning was typically done with a Rose engine lathe: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_engine_lathe The most common use that I know of was in watches, both on the watch plates and case. With CNC you can do it with a vertical mill. Just because most people called the pattern on the Spirit of St. Louis engine turning does not make it correct. Using a vertical spindle is definitely spotting unless there is some cam system moving the spindle around the vertical axis.
@@vendter the pattern is called engine turning, regardless of how it's performed. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_turning?wprov=sfla1 it's also called jeweling or perlée.
Tom- know any other apron makers? The leather guy that made yours doesn't seem interested in doing them any more. My apprenticeship is drawing to a close, and I need to start looking the part.
If you go back a ways in his videos he talks about the apron he wore before, which was one by Ben Davis with some modifications. It's what I ended up with since I ran into your same problem. It lasted 3 years. I am now trying one from Duluth trading company.
You could make your own, it's not entirely difficult or rocket science and really, at the end of the day, aside from the old saying "want something done right...", you're the best qualified person to make your best fitment. If you go down that path, two pieces of advice, get a good leather sewing needle set, waxed line, and punch. Those are your bread and butter. Second, watch a few videos of people making leather bags (of all things) this will teach you all you need to know about an apron's make. Just my 2 cents on it.
@@aserta I don't have time to learn to leatherwork, and I am not interested. I spend all my time in the shop. I'd rather pay an expert to do it for me.
Adam just recently had an apron made for him. Check out that maker. Or check Etsy or Instagram for leather workers. There are a million talented people out there.
Hy Tom! Been a long time fan and I'm pretty sure you know AvE so please look at the pattern on the lap and hear what you say at 58:47 :) LoL! Pretty awesome job!
In the military that call it zinc oxide, it's been around since World War II. It was mostly used in the interior of aircraft. But zinc oxide is a bit brighter.
Hi Trevor, I have a video out there somewhere on how you can create a master square reference without measuring tools. You will still need a flat plane like a surface plate. Cheers, Tom
I love Toms knowledge and videos He is way smarter than your average bear . I wished however he would edit out all the " um ahhs" they get annoying after awhile .
Technically a machinist is a person who shapes parts designed by a mechanical engineer. A machinist is a person who makes or shapes parts and a mechanical engineer is a person who designs machines or parts of machines. Brian Block is a mechanical engineer with a MS or Master of Science Degree and also a machinist.
A machinist is the guy who actually makes what the engineer designed work.... Machinists....the good ones anyway will out design engineers any day of the week.....
That little ball peen hammer with the long skinny head is just too cute for words. Also, that surface grinder fixture would make Don Bailey @SuburbanTool jealous. Are those toe clamps ground?
I worked with a grinder for 16 years. He made all his fixtures and tooling on the surface grinder. You could count on one hand how many times you saw him on the Bridgeport. And he would be bullshit using it! 😀
The centre was probably used when he ground it because i would probably be easier to put it in a rotary table of sorts and do all 4 sides of the square
Thank you for showing those basic things, before youtube, you had to spend some time in apprenticeship with a demeaning old fart to learn this kind of things. And you had to make it your job.
I still think it would be better if the surface grinder wheel was on an angle to the bed motion. Then it would not matter if the wheel had a groove in it, nor would it ever build up grooves.
@@xenonram Nah. Would not make any difference. The wheel must be angled. Of course this only works for surface grinding and not for sides. So I guess it has to be two separate machines or some sort of a very precise angle adjustment of the wheel axis.
