Need to know the diameter a boring head is at and don't have a tool presetter? This old toolmakers trick takes much of the stress out of tight tolerance hole boring .
I don't have gauge blocks, but have evolved a similar method using a decent small grinding vice, checked as being suitably square and parallel, with a couple of strongish springs holding the jaws back against the thrust collar of the screw, and set to the desired size using inside mic, tele gauge, or bore gauge. So it's one more step away from a calibrated standard, but good enough for gummint work!
Oh my gosh Adam. Im loving the tips and tricks videos. This is a technique I would have never thought of. But makes perfect sense. Cheers from Australia
Absolutely fantastic. Elegantly, clearly, and concisely communicated. Thanks for taking the time to put this (and all of your videos!) together. Eye-opening, thought-provoking, and inspiring stuff.
You are definitely one of my favorite RU-vidrs up there with Robin Renzetti. You're clearly a master machinist and for someone like me who's trying to learn as much as I can it's great to see procedures from someone like you because it gives me so much confidence when I know it's something that works for you. Thanks for this great video!
I love your channel. You do a really good job explaining what you're doing at why. Most tips and tricks videos on RU-vid are mostly for beginners. It's nice to have a channel that has a bigger range of skill level. Keep up the great work.
Very nice. I like that a lot of these machining tips have analogues in other fields. Thank you for expanding my tool box! I notice the care you took with the audio on this one. Thank you.
Haha! There should be a way to gently clamp a digital caliper in the milling vise and get you .0015 accuracy or a little better. Probably a headache though...
@@Bob_Adkins I think this approach requires two things, ability to set an accurate inside dimension, and that apparatus must be able to float in one axes. Calipers would work for pretty good dimension setting, though jaw faces are very narrow, but they’d need a base that could slide. Not sure clamped in a vise would work.
New to your channel. Loving your videos and presentation, many thanks. As to using a torque wrench, I use preset Fixit Stick small torque limiter. They say 6% accuracy over 20000 cycles but the units we had tested were within 2% after couple months of use. Used by Rocket Labs here in New Zealand in some of their rocket assembly. Might be an easy inline addition to your fixturing or insert screws.
Very nice presentation. I'm a bit amazed your 50 millionth Bestest indicator is not showing any reversing hysteresis. I have two of those and both have about 150 millionth hysteresis on reverse on TIR measurements.
And you don't live next door. WHY😢 Mad skills for someone so young, and in the future, I will no longer set up the indicator on the tip of the tool and hope for the best. LOL
Adam I really appreciate how simple your solutions to seemingly difficult problems. I’m far from precision but this approach seems it would certainly make the process much more approachable and accurate. Thanks I will definitely give this a try. Also, if I am understanding your gauge block set up you are wringing your dimension between two larger blocks or is this a specific fixture you have made?
Suppose this could be done (more crudely, if you don't have gauge block ears handy) with a micrometer locked to a dimension, and and clamped or mounted on a movable base with the shaft horizontal?? Loved this trick! thanks Adam!
I never realized that’s the reason there’s a hole in the center of the gage blocks. Fascinating explanation and I’m certain will expand the capabilities of many. I know my idea of how to precision bore has changed forever. Thank you Adam 👍👍😎👍👍
That's pretty clever. I don't have square guage blocks but I do have a set of precision milling arbor spacers which could work well enough for anything I might need to do on my old manual mill. Just have to make some suitable "ears"...
Come on Adam do a brother a solid here. When you say " digital boring head" drop a price so I sound reasonable to the dearly beloved when I say "ooooh look hun, a Narex boring head for sale ". Keep these great vids coming.
RU-vid sometimes cancels new subscriptions. Some people see conspiracy in it, but I suspect a database sync bug. Anyway, a day or two after a new subscription, check again to be sure.
Hey Adam. You just popped up on my phone and have watching a bunch of Hobbyists making stuff. If you decide to give me a reply thanks. In my 44yr career, yes I ran various machines. Eventually it evolved into being an tech, installing, overhauling and best working with big stuff. Microns all the way, 37 stations honing engine blocks. Anyway I subscribed to you and look forward to watching you. Keith from Michigan....
You have some wildly good content. That trick with the gage blocks is so simple, and I wouldn't have thought of it in a million years. Super great for checking size if you think something has moved on you, without taking a test cut. Do you have any videos or blogs detailing your machines?
Check out the nyc cnc for John Saunders tour of my shop . Some things have changed since the last tour , shop doubled in size and we added the cnc grinder
Very simple but effective technique. I already know that your digital boring head is out of my price range, but I was wondering about your Dial Test Indicator holder. Is that a bellows on the joint? Would you share the brand/model?
Are you running 100% oil? If so, what type do you like? I Have Haas machines and Haas documents say don't use 100% oil but I don't understand why? I have a friend that runs all his lathes and screw machines with 100% oil and he swears by it. In fact, I've never seen a screw-machine shop that doesn't run 100% oil and those guys know what they're doing. The only reason I can think of is maybe Haas is worried about fire danger? Any comment you can give is much appreciated.
I do run neat oil, mine is blaser but I’m not to picky on brand , I just like how clear blasers cracked oil products are. Not sure why haas doesn’t like it but my tech assured me there would be no seal compatibility issues and that many people run oil in haas mills
I was within spec for that insert, but this method doesn’t account for spring back . Multiple passes and measuring each is always best for account for that
Very neat trick, thank you for sharing. For the "ears", they look as though they require gauge blocks to have the threaded holes already. Could you achieve something similar with "solid" gauge blocks using e.g. a machinist's clamp to hold the stack together or would you lose the accuracy?
Square gage blocks have a plain hole thru the center that I’m taking advantage of . For rectangle blocks you can use a block clamp to get a similar result . Also just gently clamping the blocks in a toolmakers vise works in a pinch
It’s usually speed/convenience. Most my finishing happens in the other mill and it can interpolated holes to higher roundness than the haas spindle rotates. This part wasn’t all that fussy other than the bearing seats so being able to do it complete in the haas was worth the time of setting up the boring head . If I have lots of the same holes to do the boring head again makes sense , since it’s so much faster than interpolation
Hey Adam. Any chance you have a product number for that modular Sandvik carbide shank you talked about with NYC CNC a few years back? The end mill tip looked to be about .75" and the shank was projecting a good 5 or 6 inches shown up front here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-imLVVUJ7aEQ.html
