WORKING THROUGH THE ELECTRICAL ANCILLARIES INCLUDING HORN REPAIR, MACHINING NEW AIR FILTER COVER SCREWS AND FITTING NEW TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY ON THE BSA BANTAM B175.
Hi from up north I found your videos only today , very amusing and informative also you are one of the few to take the trouble to reply to comments . Thank you very much you are inspiring me to work on my c15 and get it finished
When I once needed to peen over a hollow rivet I made a spherical punch by brazing an appropriate size ball bearing onto a piece of appropriate tube. Round bar with a small drilling in one end for the bearing to locate in would work too. Anyway that very neatly swaged over the end of the rivet. Can always finish it off with a flat parallel punch. Worked very well for me. Just one more way to skin a cat. Always enjoy and look forward to your videos.
Good to see you make up the wiring to remove the intermediate connectors and to repair the original horn. It's the small details that make all the difference. I laughed at you forgetting to thread the wires through the earth washer, it's so easy to forget. Excellent video sir!
Do you know what Allan, after all these years I've haven't given a minutes thought as to how a horn worked, now I know thanks to you, cracking video mate...Allen.
I would have at least expected Jenkins to have saved a tin of Plus Gas penetrating fluid for you to release that number plate holder 😅😅😅😅! The bif rivet routine tickled me! Reminded me of hours spent relining brake shoes, back in the day 😂!
Coming together nicely. But you got me with the laser edge finder and DRO. All modern and easy and then a table and paper calculation that instantly took me back to logs. As a back row boy being summoned to calculate on the board still makes me shiver. Well done Mr T for keeping up the good work. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Mr B, sorry to awaken those memories , I´ve only recently got over getting cold sweats when the ¨ back to school ¨ adverts played on the TV after the holidays ...
To the DKW 125 RT First 2 stroke to have transfer ports. 1945 Harley sent people into the empty factory to get the blue prints. Becoming the Harley Hummer 125 Which sold to returning GI's quite well for a few years. But 3.5 HP has not going to cut it on our roads So 40 cc was added for 5 HP.... 8 HP with a minimum of tuning there was a later 175 cc Scat and Pacer. But you guys got the 4 speed box. Then Harley went to Aermacchi for the 250 cc H-D Sprint... I had one of those TOO! 1967 $400 in 1970 with 5,000 miles on the clock from a truck driver neighbor in Tampa J.C. Age 74
Engineering on the old engine eh? Love your intros by the way. Very inventive. I do like the fins on the lamp shade, helps keep you going straight. In the mounting, it's always wack things about until they fit, traditional.
Once had to rewire a German built flood car where the brown wire was the ground all throughout. The horn innards were a nice detail...ordered two rebuilt horns (hi and lo) for my RMA project from Lundegaard Spares...great source of parts for RM Rileys
Somehow I missed this one hence the late comment. WD-40 was made to use on the outside of Atlas Missiles to stop corrosion so the story goes. But the skin was 301 stainless steel so you wouldn't think it would corrode. Apparently the corrosion occurred where it had been welded. I found WD-40 wasn't too good at stopping my (steel) machine tools from rusting over winter due to condensation. Rubbing down with slideways oil works far better.
yes indeed, hence the rocket on the logo. It is useless as a rust inhibitor especially on machinery which has a habit of sweating when the temperature warms up after a cold snap and cast iron just rusts quietly under the WD40. I use ACF50 ( originally developed for protecting microswitches in the avionics world ), it's expensive but a little goes a long way, a dob here and there then spread over with fingers to form a thin film will protect machinery in our damp, cold winters .
@@TweedsGarage Normally when people recommend a good product I look it up and find it's not available in NZ. Especially anything 'dangerous'. But this stuff is so I ordered some! All my tools are due a good clean up again so I will give it a go and let you know how it goes. It wasn't even that expensive, not cheap, but not ridiculous.
@@TweedsGarage As we head into summer it's not so bad but when I was using the mill the other day I noticed a lot of my tools now have surface rust. A clean with a red Scotch pad usually takes care of it but it's annoying to have to do it!
Another enjoyable evening with you in your shed. I especially enjoyed the soldering parts order debacle. Watching you go through that gives me hope that I'm not completely useless. The anchovies were a bit salty.... imported? Cheers from the shed
Enjoyed that...thankyou. Only thing that bugs me about my B175....its engine vibration that limits my top speed to 40mph. I stick to that as I dont want engine vibrations damaging anything. Wonder if you will be balancing your crank/piston assembly......now that would be interesting.
I will be clocking the crank assembly because I´m pretty sure it's been knocked out of true with the stuffing plate coming loose at some time in it's life ( see previous videos ) which might be the source of your vibration problems, I´ll be building a small truing jig to do it on, so check in again.
I had a new Rex Caunt crank pin and con rod/piston fitted to the crank some years ago....the guy who serviced the crank showed it me on he trueing rig....less than 1/2 a thou out. I suspect the new parts fitted where lighter than the old. So always assumed its just a balance prob. Have you got the equip to balance your crank Allen.
@@nickaxe771 no, I think that's a bit specialist....but I will have a little look through some of the old books I have to see if I can find an old fashioned way to do it.
Its quite smooth upto 40mph....pulls well considering my 100kg bulk and 6ft tall....I feel sorry for the poor thing. A few months back the vibration went considerably worse....puzzled me....was all of a sudden. Prob been 3 mths since I last rode it....was ok then. Decided at that point it had to go....not nice at all to ride. Over the next week I remembered....I had done some work on the rear mud gaurd and not rode it since....could it be connected I wondered...the work I did was to repair a fatigue crack down the ctr of the mud guard While I had the back wheel off doing this work....req welding with my mig.....I noticed 2 of the mud gaurd mounting bolts were missing....not the seat frame mount but the ones neat to the battery box. The guy I bought it off must have missed them on its rebuild so I found the correct imperial bolts and fitted them.....mud gaurd now mounted nice and rigid? So I thought....has fitting those bolts caused the real bad vibration's....so I removed them....the 2 top bolts hold it in place ok. Road tested.....back to normal.....bad vibration gone. Still have to one above 40mph but that nowhere near as bad as with the bolts fitted. Odd....some sort of resonance????? If I push the bike over 48mph say I loose the vibration so I thing that just a engine imbalance that I think single have so I will live with 40mph. Feels in keeping with the bike I think anyway. Keep up the good work Allan. @@TweedsGarage
@nickaxe771 i think the 175 does suffer from vibration issues, the mudguard on mine is split both sides and the mounting lugs on the seat frame for the mudguard sheared off a long time ago and looking at photos of other 175's a lot have cracked mudguards. A mudguard i was looking at an autojumble had the sheared of lugs from the seat frame still bolted it 😆. So i think thats what they all do as the salesman would say.......thats the trouble when an engine is increased in size to its original design as Norton with their isolastic engine mounts solution to the problem of ever bigger bores goes to prove......i think you just have to ride through it.....and avoid 40mph zones
due to the previous owner getting on in years I am trying to get it back up and running as soon as possible so he can see it running again, this mudguard will be replaced eventually as it's split on both sides and the mounting lugs have broken off of the sub frame ( not unusual on these ) so that will be sorted at the same time.
Honestly... Boobs, screws, shafts, vibrators, knobs... What is the world coming to? With a bit of luck it'll be coming to realise that some Tweed should be one of your 5 a day. Ooh, Matron... 👍
I will take your knobs, screws and shafts and using them to reel the viewers in on future videos Bill........Boobs worked really well for some reason 😉
I have been tinkering on and off but teething troubles need to be sorted , the oil gauge fitting on the block is leaking so its oil out, drop the sump and sort it out......I did say I wasn't a fan of fibre washers.......
