I did my own suspension (sans re-valving), because the people who work in the industry did the job wrong. There is more information in the owners manual. I am going to be nice, and stop right there.
This was actually killer, raised my stanchion 7mm reset all my tuning valves to the base mentioned, thing will hook up on the trail better now I hope and actually turn in. Sweet vid.
Im appreciate your Vidoes so much! Ive done alot of research in the past years with everythin which has to do with dirtbikes and im still getting some realy good new information and tipps which are so helpful and important! Especially right now with the oil wear comparisons!! I couldnt get any infos about the exact oil wear and how and how much it wears in a certaim amount of time, so i can set my oil change priorities. Thanks so much Vital and 812 Suspension! Greetings from Nuremberg, Germany
Funny - I've subscribed to your channel for over a year and have been a big fan. This might be the best video I've seen from MXF. Granted, I've been researching servicing my 4CS forks. Great vid.
great vid very informative and covering items my shop manual does not. my only criticism is the screw driver used to alter clicker position was a dodgy fit, it needed to have a thicker blade to fit the slots better other wise damage can occur to the screw head. I know there is not a lot of pressure applied and that most would not care about the damage. IMO it is best to have the tool that fits best for any job.. thanks for the vid it was good to watch.
Great starting point for 2005 plus bikes,on my crf 450 2010 work great but on yz450f steel frame all same just on rear shock works good on 5 clicks out down rebound
I don't think the latest MX generation really knows how to adjust the suspension, and they don't have to know on the smooth tracks today. With smooth tracks, all you need is bottoming resistance for the 60 mph jumps in the middle of the smooth straight. Best suspension made, on the smoothest tracks we ever rode on. OK then pros. I can't wait until a MX bike is as easy to ride as sitting in a lawn chair,---so everybody can brag about how much skill they have.
I always thought adjusting the height on one end of the bike required both ends to keep bike balanced.... i.e. raising forks(more then a couple of mm) in triple clamps required adjustment in shock. No?
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
Clear as mud ! He used so many different terms ! Oh and used the terms clockwise/ counter clockwise when holding it upside down under the fork. (I’d assume the clockwise/counterclockwise refers to lying with your head on the workshop floor, looking up at the fork.)
the clicks setting you are mentioning is wrong. If you turn all the clicks clockwise it means the compression will be super stiff and the rebound super slow. When you turn counterclockwise you are making your compression softer and your rebound faster. Same thing goes for the mono in the back.
@@TheMxFactory I was obviously referring to the 2 different knobs (the red one for compression and the white one for rebound). So basically what I was trying to say is that your instructions tell the exact opposite in terms of compression stiffness and rebound velocity to what in realty happens when you set the clicks on those knobs.
So, just went back and watched the video and I heard Doc say multiple times clockwise closes counterclockwise opens and the he shows how’s that moves the needle inside to restrict and let oil flow. So unless you’re seeing something other than I am, the video is spot on. Take another glance and see if you’re hearing it correctly.
@@TheMxFactory PLEASE go to 2:10 and READ what is written. I will do it for you. After turning the clicker all the way in clockwise, TURN CLICKER OUT TO ADJUST (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) TO DESIRED SETTING (MORE CLICKS= STIFFER FORKS). That is just wrong. More clicks counterclockwise, softer fork in compression. The explanation he gave about the valve functioning is correct but when you turn all the clicks in clockwise it means everything is closed, no oil goes through and the fork is stiff at its max level. By clickin counterclockwise you're letting the oil through the valve, thus having a less stiff compression of the fork. Is it clear now? There are several other viewer down the comments who noticed the same mistake. It's not the end of the world but a lot of people could just go nuts by doing the opposite of what they wanna do.
As good as modern suspension is? It has become so fricking technical and so maintenance intense finicky that it really substantially detracts from the joy of owning and riding a motorcycle ....I feel like racing rules should have been written to STRONGLY discourage complicated suspension ....I don't know how that could work ...maybe forcing everyone to have the same setup ...maybe a total price ceiling on brand new components .....samet thing with fuel injection systems and valve trains ....just ultra simple shift that requires very little maintenance and has very limited adjustment ...it's just gotten to be TOO MUCH...It ruins the sport and discourages people entering these sports ...in my opinion...
Good video. I like the part at the end where you say “It’s probably not the bike, it’s the rider”. So tired of these young guys at the track blaming the bike for their inability. lol
Thanks for the props! There’s definitely a lot of work that goes into these videos, especially this suspension one, so thanks for recognizing that. Many more to come!
Awesome tips!.. I tweaked my front end the other day when I flipped my bike. The guys told me to whack the wheel against a tree and that got me going but was not perfect. I got home and removed everything(forks/wheel etc..). Even after reinstalling it feels funny. I will look at the pinch bolts today and try that brake procedure. Gotta love tech tips AND SAFETY GOGGLES!!! LOL
Just loosen the axle clamp bolts, the upper and lower fork clamps ...this will relieve any load on the forks caused by a crash, hard landings and / or improper assembly in the first place. Move handlebars from side to side and wiggle tire side to side just a bit. Tighten axle nut, then lower fork clamps , axle clamps, and then upper, do this one more time and the forks and axle will find their true positioning unloaded and off you go. Torque everything accordingly. Too tight and it can cause binding.
Hence it's just, a seal check. Not a function issue-- technically. External safety, zone. And one shaft-- hence opposite ends-- same length? Hence-- amps up, directs it. If shaft is, g=9in X 5 extra amps = 45amps inches (9,5 grids power band centers).
I really liked the fluid comparison of hours of use. I’ve always been a little skeptical of maintenance schedules cause I often get away with letting them go but then wonder why all of a sudden I have a leak. Very good hourly comparison 👍🏻
Can I buy and ride a bike with out being in your little "community"? That crap is for commune----------ism. I ride dirt bikes to get away from you people. :)
Hello,great video,can you help me with harsh suspension on ktm 250 sxf 2016(aer 48 fork),I’ve tried with exact positioning of both forks and same result,after driving,I’m dead,my hands hardly feel 😁,but I’m beginner,I thought I’m out of shape for this kind of sport,but when I looked on my friends bike,my suspension is much harder,so what can be be the issue?
So the 10/18 for the front forks is standard for all bikes? I have a 2020 Honda crf250r I know nothing about suspension set up and I’m trying to get my bike to a “home base” if you will.
2:12 Are you sure that "more clicks" counterclockwise give stiffer forks? KTM manual for example says 18 clicks - Comfort, 15 - Standart and 12 - Sport. I presume sport means stiffer. The same on 5:00 fo the rear shock.
When your talking about triple clamp torquing and you say they torque it then then check again. Are u staying torque the bolts to torque and do each one once? I go back and check the torque as I find when your pinching the forks the one u are torquing throws off the other bolt then u have to go back and torque it again as it’s loose no where close to torque
Need some help most of guys riding dirt i notice smaller guys i am 6.3 tall weight 260 some people saying i need to upgrade the suspension what do you recommend
Question - 2:09 in the video you say more clicks = stiffer. If you're bottoming out (going clockwise) to start, then counting clicks out, aren't you reducing compression with each click out (counter-clockwise), or the more clicks, the LESS compression? Reducing compression should make it LESS stiff? All the way in (clockwise) is closing the orifice, basically blocking the fluid movement to the max, which would be the max amount of compression. Or are the settings on the SFF fork backwards from most forks?
New sub. Great channel. Back into mx bikes after about 30 years. Picked up a 2007 YZ250 and realizing suspension has changed a lot since back in the day.
Awesome guys awesome, you guys give a lot of tips guys. Last four or five years I'm trying to get suspensions setup but I couldn't much. After this video I got superb confidence to do the setup. Continue guys. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
for 8:30 over torque of triple clamps... if you over torque will it ruin the fork for life or can you simply loosen and set correct torque and have the forks move freely again?
In what scenario would someone use aftermarket high flow valves in forks? I assumed for light riders but couldn’t you adjust rebound clickers on fork or not quite the same?
PLEASE HELP in the stand I'm at 543 static I'm at 536.5 rider I'm at 482.6 what do I need to do to make it around 100 instead of 54 please help I'm bottoming out every jump
I don't necessarily think setting your sag in the standing attack position is strictly the only way to do it or the best way. I think a combination of sitting and standing, taking two separate measurements and then splitting the difference. A rider typically will spend more time seated rather than standing up in the attack position. Riders are mostly seated or just hovering above the seat.
Only on smooth tracks. I stand as much as possible. But yes, you can set the sag sitting or standing. The difference for the two normal positions may be a couple mm of sag.
I’m not too happy about seeing the ad impeach trump before this video if I didn’t like y’all’s videos so much I would have gave a thumbs down just for the ad but I didn’t cause I don’t think you can pick what ad RU-vid puts on your vids
I love my 812 suspension, the attention to detail is second to none. If you knew Doc, you would know that attention to detail, it is what he is all about!
It does not matter. Click them where ever you want. The vid did not tell you why you adjust them, so it does not matter. But, for suspension and carburetor needle settings, how far you open them is always from lightly seated, (closed). So before you start guessing where to click them to, first count the clicks as you close them to closed, so you can at least get back to where you were.
