I saw a sign painter using small magnets to hold his patterns while he used a pounce pad and I thought that's a really cool idea for steel etc surfaces.
i found a 1970s steel medic first aid box with nice patina ,,filp down front panel fold out trays and compartments and its perfect for my sign writing kit,i even pinstriped it up ,love your videos buddy, am in a steam village in OZ and the signs are computer cut junk , i intend to fix up the train station signs and community bar and historical general store in town ,master painter by trade now trying my hand at sign writing so far i find it very satisfying and challenging at same time ,
Thats awesome! Would love to see it. Thanks for enjoying the videos mate. Yeah the newer sign companies often lack in knowledge of lettering and it really shows. Good luck with all your projects mate. Feel free to send em in to the email address I have on here when they're done!
Super cool to see what you personally carry in the box! And straight up, wearing a glove on your pot hand/palette hand is just the right thing to do. USE TAPE... If you have some, why wouldn't you want the cleanest lines? And just like you said, the customer won't give two thoughts about how it's done. They will however think about the finished project for a long, long time. That's what they pay for! If you have something to prove, enter a competition. Fun for the rest of us! Thanks again for sharing all of your tips. Can't wait for the next video! Cheers
@@theletterhead Yes, indeed it was! Always cool to see what someone else might have in their box! I used to carry a soy sauce bottle for my thinner/spirits. Eventually the small hole became larger and larger... But it worked for a long while, giving me a lot of slow flow control. Also, as just a really inexpensive trick I would always put a piece of plastic wrap on the bottle and then replace the cap. I never had any issue with spills or evaporation while in transport. Just a cheap way to ensure the seal is nice and tight. Looking forward to the next project! Stay well!
Arteza graphite transfer paper…you’ll thank me later instead of the charcoal….and in the tattoo trade we use 2 cups. Pierce 1 with scissors 1/3rd..nearly half of the way down. Flip it and it’s the anti flip stand for your cup. Keep the bottom half for thinning or cleaning your brush
As a retired signwriter seeing you video about your sign box reminds me when I started in the early 60’s we used to do a lot of exhibitions in those days and a most of the stands fascia’s were painted in what was “distemper” before emulations came into being so I had a large wooden chalk compass which we altered to take a small piece of brass instead of chalk then we ran the compass along the fascia top and bottom according to the size of lettering we were using then very lightly marked out the name of the stand with the brass tip free hand didn’t use drawings so when you got down from the trestle’s you couldn’t see your marking out on the fascia’s we used a matt paint manufactured by a company called Williamson’s also John Keeps Itenso which came in tubes so thinning the paint down with white sprit we could speed up signwriting process of the fascia’s in the exhibition but apart from my compass things haven’t changed much in the signwriters kit box
Hi mate, thanks for your message. My dad used to do a lot of exhibitions years ago when he started. He often spoke about how quick the old guys were at sketching and painting, and how they were paid by the letter, meaning the quick workers of a good level earned fantastic money those days. I like your idea for marking out. I've always been a fan of stepping back and having a look at the whole sign before I paint. Some things are easier to see when you're not up close. Take care mate!
@@theletterhead Thanks for your reply, that’s a coincidence regarding your dad about working in the exhibitions and getting paid by the size of lettering etc and that’s exactly how we were paid in those days we called it “per dozen inches “ it was a kind of piece work it made you work faster in order to earn more money we worked mainly in Earls Court and Olympia in London what was your dads name? I might have known him keep up the good work
One thing about one-shot paint is, the can. Once it's open, you all-all-always get a major dried up crust on the surface. Because the cans in and of themselves, suck. I think. So if you have a suggestion to what we can pour the paint over in, so it won't dry up. That'll be a GREAT help. Other than that. Cool little upload :-)
Yeah it's the bane of all sign painters! I've heard people put a screw through the top and pour it out and put the screw back. I've heard that works well, never tried it though
@@theletterhead I've seearched forever for some plastic containers. It just sucks that the lit on one shot, as soon as it's open, it can never fully close, which makes it, in my eyes, some very expensive paint and a giant waste. I'll look for something, there has to be SOMEthing on this planet. Oh well. Do you know where it's possible to pick up some cool template letters to use as a base for a piece?
I have had luck putting a screw in the lid and a nut or two to make it into a rattle can. I put two screws in the lid on opposite ends. One I take out to pour out the paint and the other I loosen to let in air so it flows smoother.
I was in the sign trade for 30 years. When you open a can of paint, before you pour any out, tap a few holes all along the channel into which the lid seats. Use a nail or a small flat screwdriver...tapping with a hammer on either the nail or the screwdriver. Then, after you've poured out the paint, any remaining paint drains back down into the can. When you pound the lid back on, there should be nothing to splash back out at you. (But use a rag on top of the can, just in case.)
Excellent video, may I suggest using a lithium grease instead of oil, the grease retains the chisel shape when the brush is not in use. Also pounces are useful for repeat works, I used to letter commercial vehicles, fleets of 20 or more, so positioning is essential and this is best done with pounces.
Hi Robert, I've never heard of using lithium grease. Will definitely look into that! Yeah I should have mentioned that about pounces too. I was always bound to miss out a bunch of stuff!
@@theletterhead Any kind of grease will do, it's just lithium grease is slightly thinner than others, and like I say it holds a nice chiseled shape to your brushes when not in use 👍🏼
There are so many different sorts of brushes and I can get a general idea of what they’re for by their shape. But what would be your choice for a beginner who’s wanting to learn this trade? If you could choose 2 of what you think are the best brushes for lettering, what would they be?
Just after recording this video I recieved some new brushes. Im looking to get a few more and then will do a video on them all. Showing their pros and cons.
Hi can you advise me please. I can't get hold of one shot and because I live in Ireland, no one will ship paints out to me. Ive been told a local shop can get me 'unica' enamel paint which can be reduced with white spirit. Can I use this or any other enamel paint on the market ( in Ireland ) Thanks.
It's hard to say. It takes a bit to get used to but I try to get runny enough to spread well but still with a bit of "grip" to the surface when painting. There are a few sign painting groups on facebook for people all around the world, you never know!
Hi racquel, The box was made by my dad to replicate the one he made himself when he started years ago. Unfortunately I don't know of any place that sells them like this.
I think they are American. Their is probably some way of getting it in the UK though. Alphanamel is another brand you might try if you can't get ronan. Although I havent used them myself.
Hi there, really sorry you can't hear the speaking. I tried to make sure that the music was very quiet, and tested it on many devices. If I do more stuff like this I will bear it in mind and keep the music lower or cut it.
