I used to have an R56, most fun i ever had. Out here in cali we have beautiful canyon roads and i would be there for hours pushing the car to its limits and it held up really well. i do regret not having a temp gage as that is how i lost my car. thermostat did go bad and i did not notice till it was too late.
Those thermostats are plastic, complex, and a "PITA" to change. Definitely something to always change preventatively when doing other major work (e.g. timing chain), while the car front is in maintenance disassembly. They typically fail around the 50K miles (80K KM) mark.
@@jb678901 Don't I know it... Luckily mine threw a code, which my mechanic caught while I had the valve cover replaced. Tried to do the thermostat job myself to save some money and broke the crossover pipe. Had to have it towed back to the shop to get the car back together properly and ended up costing me almost 2k... Curse those Germans and their nightmare engineering and brittle plastic.
Thanks for reminding me to order that cheap crossover pipe. Plastic engineered for "guaranteed" maintenance service revenues. The vacuum hose takeoff from the dirty side of the N14 valve cover is another cheap plastic pipe that looks like it was supplied by Fischer-Price. I cutout the end connections and replaced that pipe with 3/4 inch automotive coolant hose, as part of the dirty side oil catch-can install.@@ldcommando1616
You can display water temp on an r56. There is a secret menu that you can go in to and selectt what parameters are displayed on he clock in front of the driver. It's a pain but it can be done and is highly recommended.
Ronal R50 Aero (18") wheels look mint on the MINI. There is even an Anniversary Gold edition of that wheel, so even better. I think a single tip would look just fine and less cramped....long live toggle switches.
yeah fuel rail is good for sure cause usually once you see that number low like 600 then you know the fuel pump is on its way out potentially, like i said #1 Mod GAUGES! cause with out them your car is just a time bomb legit. only warning these cars give you is.. your engine is F**KED go to a dealer ship lol
I’m glad that you also mentioned they make these for the n12 mini, I got it as my first car from my grandparents and people kinda dog on them a bit but knowing there’s things I can do to help it makes it seem not so bad
people will hate on anything and everything. For me i wanted to build a car that no one ever sees done to the nines and once you start getting upgrades done youll be faster then v8s. not to mention how amazing the handling is in these little cars. power to weight ratio!!!!
Few comments from myself on this: Please note that the Catless is most likely illegal, also it doesn't provide that much improvements over 100/200cel.Please Tune responsibly and don't pollute the earth any more than its needed!! Upgrade tires 100%. Go 215 width and you'll wont recognize your car after especially if moving from stock size runflats. Suspension especially not standard is shockingly bad and crashy. Upgrade struts to Koni or Bilstein and once again you wont recognize your car! Overall, great content!
1) Low profile OBDII BT transmitter with On/Off button...keep it plugged in all the time. Press on when the car is on, then pair to phone w/app (e.g. Torque Pro). Turn off to avoid draining the battery when the car is off. A low profile transmitter (e.g. "XTRONS") will not hang far below the dash, where a typical transmitter can get bumped by your leg while driving. 2) Front strut mount reinforcement plates OR a front upper strut brace with mounting plates. The chassis metal where the struts mount can weaken and deform under extreme conditions (potholes, etc.)...this accessory helps to avoid that problem. 3) an after-market caste ALUMINUM valve cover (comes with gaskets, new hardware, and PCV). If installed properly (i.e. 90 inch pounds torque to bolts and torqued in the proper sequence + use of High temp RTV to the clean side gasket corners), then this valve cover neither leaks oil nor warps with engine heat, like the OEM factory plastic cover. 4) an after-market flexible stainless steel (braided) oil feed line to the turbo, to avoid inevitable oil leaks using the factory part. Replace the return line while doing the job. 5) At least one oil catch can for the clean side vacuum, from valve cover to turbo inlet. Install a dirty side catch can for N14. 6) after-market turbo blanket in lieu of ugly steel shroud. Will slightly improve turbo efficiency and looks better. 7) an aftermarket oil pan plug with magnetic (neodymium) tip. (M16x1.5) 8) an aftermarket intercooler (larger, more cooling capacity). If installing the turbo's after-market oil feed line, consider doing the oil filter housing gaskets + oil cooler gaskets + turbo blanket...all at the same time. The prep to do one activity will greatly reduce the amount of labor to do each, if done separately. RU-vid videos show how this can all be done with removal of the downpipe...avoiding the chore of putting the front of the car in full "maintenance mode". If changing the thermostat...do the waterpump and the idle pulley tensioner too...in parallel with a G48 coolant change. Again, to save labor time. As always...change the oil & oil filter at twice the recommended frequency (5W-30 full syn); change every 5K miles (8K KM). Keep a spare quart or liter in the boot...checking oil level with the dipstick every other gas tank refill. Keep level at or above the mid point range on the dipstick range.
i have a mini cooper 2013 sport. and i never pressed the sport button cuz i just wanted my car to be in great shape. Then when i pressed it...omg i felt like sonic the hedgehog LOL this car is fast at taking off holy shit xD. my job is 6 mins away and i never drive out of town. all my trips are 10-13 mins away. So i feel ok driving as fast as i do without the engine getting to hot. I love this car :D
This is why I asked! “Supposedly” you can use adapters I purchased the bad boy component speakers (spx)a couple years ago for my fa20wrx w/ “adapters” from cruchfield that where ment for 6.5 because those doors were 5.25 also but the baskets didn’t fit…. Idk I’ll mess this it when I have time off then and then order something So is it 3.5 or 4 inch for the top 5’s for the bottom and 6x9 for the back
Thanks so much brother! I've got an '07 MCS. I just rebuilt the head, so I'm in for the long haul. I'm going to downpipe it soon. I'm about to pull the back seats (bench, lol) and I'm thinking about cold air intake options. I definitely need to pull the stock hot pipe with the muffler thingy. I deleted the ridiculous noise maker already. It's so fun to drive! onward and upward.
I would like to know oil level and coolant temp for sure. Also not sure where you drive but lowering a mini or ground effects would be a disaster in Florida with all the speed bumps and rain
Great video mate, and agree these cars are really hot, u wanna do at least intercooler or radiator upgrade or both, I own a r52 jcw... is a lot fun having the roof off but not so much when driving the motorway and starts raining lol. By the way beautiful Akita mate
I have a 2009 Mini R55 that I just purchased. I like your roof rack as I have a double sunroof as well. What model of roof rack do you have installed on your ride. Which by the way is sweet.
Funny that the older ver I have a R53 it has a temp gauge, but newer ones dont i find that crazy most cars newer generations have more and more readings available.
I Know its wild to me that they take some of those vital gauges away. even my friend who has the E90 Bmw 335i. he doesnt have a dipstick but relys on the computer to tell him if his oil is low or needs changed. what if that sensor goes bad you know. Digital dash is by far the first thing any car that doesnt come factory with gauges needs.
Thank you so much bro, I have a 2010 mini base and I want to do it all, however Inam going to leave in N/A just cause I want to make it last 200,000 more 🫠 God bless and have a great one!
Hey just wondering if you have a list of the mods I love what you’ve done especially the digital dash. Do you have a manufacturer name for them just so I can search it up
Hey brother, first off very good content, Question what is the exact set up you have for your digital gauge, name and model please I definitely want that for my mini!!!
Thank you bro I appreciate you! there are many guys modding base coopers still. for sure I would do the tablet / digital dash to be able to see whats really going on with the mini. and intake would give you better induction sound and more throttle repose weather you have a base or the S model. you wont have an intercooler cause you dont have a turbo. you could also do a resonator delete in your exhaust to get better sounds with out being super loud. Those are my suggestions to you Ricardo.
Super vidéo !! J’ai une JCW R56, je cherche à obtenir un moteur fiable et qui restera en bonne santé grâce à de petite modification comme les tiennes Surtout refroidir un maximum ce moteur N14 Je rêverais d’aboutir mon projet comme le tient ! ❤️ *un salut de la Belgique 👋*
How did you mount the digital dash? I have been considering doing an audio build without using the headunit as source and would love to mount an android auto to the speedo, but i dont know what product does it best with little to no play.
so i just screwed my ipad case right to the little piece that i got for the speedometer when i did my radio double din upgrade. so it aint going any where. theres other ways to mount it for sure but i just screwed it into place lol
Hey what’s all the panel speakers sizes I can’t get a straight answer from anyone, can you fit monster 6.5 component speakers in the doors? My eg you can’t roll the windows all the way down. I’m really just looking for quality replacement stuff that needs no modification
The rear are 6.5 oval shape and the front door is like a 5.5” or something like that. But it’s got to be the circle ones. I guess you could probably cut away and make the hole bigger for some other speakers but you may run into the window issue
The first mod i did to my R56 mini was remove the engine and replace it with a Turbo Honda K24. If you need any help on your swap, i am happy to help where i can. My handle here is the same as my IG handle.
hey dude. not sure what your exactly talking about. if your talking about the head lights they are dissembled and then painted black. I also painted all the other chrome pieces black instead of buying the de chrome wrap kit
@@UFOBITS sorry typing too fast! That’s exactly what I meant, the xenon headlights. I’ll try and find a tutorial, unless you’ve done one! Thanks 🙏🏻 Great content btw, more subs coming your way 💯
@@UFOBITS I asked before I saw that you made a breakdown video explaining in further detail. Thanks for responding and thanks for the content. Very helpful.
does it smell like hot air? i know that sounds funny but it either smells hot or are you smelling oil or coolant? do you ever see any smoke under the hood? could be a oil leak from the oil feed line to the turbo. its a pretty common issue
Also, check your valve cover for oil seepage. The OEM/plastic valve covers are prone to warp and leak. My garage installed mine incorrectly (improper torque; should be 90 in pounds or 10.2 N-M. The garage also failed to apply RTV) and I only noticed after awhile of driving. Decided to do it myself and bought an aftermarket Aluminum valve cover for my N14 engine ($160 delivered, incl gaskets and hardware). Bought high temp RTV (gasket sealant) for the front & back gasket corners nearest the oil filter side of the engine (right corners where gasket makes an acute corner). The first time I did this took about 1 hour with manual tools (1/4in ratchet with extension and both 8mm & 10mm sockets, flathead screw driver for clips, and alcohol or brake cleaner + paper towels to clean surface where gasket seals, plus a 1/4in torque wrench for the 90 in-pound range). Torque sequence for the 13 bolts is on another YT video and can be found in forums. While facing car: middle rear, middle front (also the bolt for ground wire), center right, center left, left middle edge side, left rear corner, left front corner, left front adjacent to left front corner, left rear adjacent to left rear corner, right middle edge side rear (long bolt), right middle edge side front (long bolt), right front corner, right rear corner. [in "nautical terms"...left means the car's starboard side (right its port side) while driving. Front = bow, rear = stern.] That oil seepage drips around the turbo...smokes and smells like hell. Of course, as mentioned, the lines to the turbo can also leak (banjo bolts)...so these too should be checked. Lastly, the damn oil filter housing. If the plastic housing is marred or cracked...change that too. If someone changed the oil and they were a gorilla...that plastic housing was likely doomed.
Hey man, I got the downpipe off amazing or eBay I forget and the 4” tips are wielded on. I got them from a guy with a corvette who never installed them
