the first one: if you make it pretty o-shaped coils, you have to twist the rope with every coil which makes it cumbersome if the rope is longer because you will have a lot of kinks and twists in the remaining rope, and - more importantly - give you a lot of kinks if you don´t roll the rope off the coil later but just take it off "sideways" as is usually done. to avoid this, coil it without twisting it: this´ll give you figure of 8 coils, which looks sloppy but the rope comes undone straight, without kinks and twists.
The last style you showed is essentially crocheting with the rope in a single-crochet stitch. You're right about electrical cords being wrapped this way; my husband used to do this with our big 100 ft. cord. Good tips.
The chain near the end looks so nice and clean at the end... it's hard to resist to use it - but I really don't want to twist my climbing equipment just to have a pretty chain like that 😀 Thanks for the video, nice explanations!
Cool man! The last example can be referred to as a Welder's Knot method. Large welding shops have long cords or cables to wrap up and deploy each day, sometimes what amounts to a mile of relatively heavy cable. That method makes short work of stowing it and makes it easy to deploy the next day. As an added advantage, it'll work almost as well in frigid temperatures and icy conditions!. Hope this helps someone.
Excellent point about finding and marking the middle. It's also worth measuring it. I tend to measure and mark quarters and eighths. I've then got a fairly accurate measuring tool and it also makes cutting lengths more reliable.
Regarding the common coil you demonstrated first, you may note that the rope wants to fall in figure 8 patterns. Let it! When you twist the rope to get a clean loop, you're applying the same turn to the rope that you put in the coil, and you'll get it twisted when you pull it out of the coil. The figure 8 alternates which way the rope turns, for a net zero twists, and the crossing additionally keeps the loops from crossing through each other. I guess the downside is that it won't lay as flat, so might not be as good for packing tightly.
I used to sail a little years ago. I was taught that when coiling rope to twist the cord a quarter turn to counter act the twist put in by forming each loop. The loops will hang in long 'o' s rather than figure 8's. It works a treat. Enjoyed the video. Nice explanations. :)
Great video, great stuff. I've always been big on having properly coiled ropes and POWER chords. On new line I try to stretch it by tying one end off. While ted off I pull the other end tight which naturally pulls the twists out allowing it to roll in your hand. After a few pulls and rolls the rope or line lays almost perfectly flat and it does not try to assume its previous factory coil. If rolled while coiling it up, the line will almost always come out and work in a nice straight relaxed manner. Rope is funny stuff, its use usually has the element of risk and safety, so lay it right from day one, and I'll can confidently hang my ass on it on day 100.
Really Cool!..I enjoy listening to your pleasing voiceand your accent. Everyone has one or two long cords that need to be secured and stored and these are some excellent ways to git er done!.
Did the last style on our tag ropes when I built towers, I just tied a loop in one end and like he did pulled rope through loop of coarse my rope was 2 to 3oo ft long.
A++, have seen this too many times now over the past couple years as my ropes-to-job # continuously creeps up on me lol, I'd been doing the hand-to-hand 'figure 8' (1st method you show) but forgot about feeding a bite through the top so, instead, had folded the finished 8 in half and, with tails of rope from each end that I'd leave, would then wrap them (in opposing directions) around the folded figure-8 of rope, takes a minute to do but leaves really tight bundles :D
That last technique is basically crochet, and I have no idea why people do it with extension cords because it creates memory in a serpentine fashion snagging everything it touches. Thank you for the great video very useful.
That last one was taught by me by a former employer. He's got a arbour business and we use up to 1" thick rope that stretches up to maybe 100'. This last method was taught to him by a fella he worked with many years in a grain elevator.
I'm a WW kayaker, so a rope bag (called a throw bag) is something I carry on every trip. It's absolutely essential that the rope be able to cleanly & freely exit the bag when used, especially given the fact that the majority of the time that a throw bag gets deployed it's during a potential life or death situation. Although I never put any climb lines or any of my other ropes from various hobbies in a bag, my WW throw bag is the only one that gets used almost exclusively during life/death situations.
very informative vid. thank you for sharing! id like to add a few things; in the first way you showed - you can proximate one meter by holding the end of the rope as you did then pulling the rope along this hand over your chest to the other shoulder, thats what we here in croatia call the 'mason meter' sometimes. another tip on the same way is to use the 'over and under' method, that way you should not get any twists (if you started with a straight rope), its easy to uncoil and if you get a knot is easy to un-knot it (look for over and under method for microphone cables, theres a lot of vids on youtube)
Enjoyed it. I've coiled a lot of ropes being on a rescue team, and being with a tree service a long long time ago. One difference that I do is with electrical wire like long extension cords (not for in the house). This is just my opinion and experience that we never use the last knot. I coil the cord with zero twists in the cord. The last loop wraps around the top of the cord (one or two times) and then make a loop with one wrap and put the cord through the loop. It is very easy to hang up then. (I sure hope that was clear.) I have noticed in the past that with electrical and the continual loops, sooner or later those loops will want to stay in that cord when you're extending it. That's just my experience. The funny thing is that I was on rescue and topping, and my brother was a rigger. :)
I coil electrical cable and I do alternate clock/anti clock twists so that over the length, there is no accumulated twist. I could see the rope above kinking because a simple coil will always twist by one turn per loop. Heavy TV camera cable, we used to lay it out on the floor as a figure of eight because the camera is left connected to the wall box and you can't untwist a camera(EMI2001) before CCD.
I cringe whenever I see an extension cord "chained." Makes it a pain right in the butt to pull cleanly through a house or jobsite while working. Always snags at every corner. Completely defeats the purpose of using an extension cord.
When I go skydiving, the "Daisy Chain" is the same way we synch up our lines after a skydive so that we can walk back from the field without our lines getting tangled or dragging them on the ground as we walk back.
It is actually just a series of marlin spike hitches. I've usually heard it referred to as a chain sinnet. At least that is what it is called in macramé.
I only had one course in my career taught by the Navy (SeeBees)......the Navy's Search & Rescue Course......but they sure knew their ropes, knots, and block & tackle.....lol
Good video , the last one is construction guys always called monkey chains , most ppl don’t know about that , I’ve seen thieves grab my cord out of the truck , when they saw it looks like a mess , he dropped it ba k in the truck bed lol , I’d always buy like a pink cord , those 2 things thieves won’t take lol
If the rope is twisted, I don't understand how jiggling it will make the twist disappear. The twist has to be 'untwisted' all the way to the end of the rope.
The first two methods shown are guaranteed to put twist into a rope. The methods shown looping behind the neck put NO twist into a rope. This can be done in hand as well - looping to the left, then the right.
Awesome video! Looking forward to learning all these methods...Not sure if you have already made videos on this...Learning knots is valuable...But more than just learning the knot itself, is also learning which knots, hitches, or lashings are of better use in a particular situation. Spending time teaching the proper application of knots I think is what is missing in most knot vids online...Thanks again for the outstanding vid!
10* Should be the first of anything done with ropes ... even before learning any knots in survival schools and scouting. Good old Navy and Coast Guard (and Auxilliary) rope coiling. Criss-cross the wrappings so that they neutralize the coiling of a continuously wound rope bundle. Make criss-crossing as figure 8, whether on arm, or on the ground. Keep straightening out any rope coiling going through hands. Use a single or double tree with 2 spurs for criss-crossing and winding up a rope coil. Or use a single tree spar and one wrist, and wrap coil around spur and wrist (wrist making the coil tension). Use 2 ground stakes with same criss crossing of rope (super fast). 4x rope in electricians looping in loops, makes super compact coil, easy to further coil, no loose ends.
You can also use the over under method and it’ll be a clean circular coil that won’t have any twists when you uncoil it. However, if you pull one of the ends through the coil when you do uncoil it, you’ll have a knot for every wrap you made. So be careful not to do that.
That last one was a variation of a horse hitch! I've never considered using it to coil rope but that's how we tie off our horses. I just thought that was funny.
NEVER use the common coil. You are just twisting the rope up. Very bad for managing a rope. NEVER use the mountaineers coil. Again, coiling adds twists, PLUS the intention is to carry the rope under your arm and around the neck, which is a good way to hang yourself. NEVER put a rope around your neck. To coil is to introduce twists. Bad rope management. The alpine is the correct result, but you are hanging it around your neck to get there. Why? Hold the rope with one hand, pull off your arms length of rope, hand it to your other hand, switching your hand back and forth. I do this with my ropes and the are standard 150-165ft ropes. You end up with about three foot bights, just like you had when you dangerously used your neck as a rope management tool. If you plan on using it in the backpack method, its best to take the two ends, go to the middle of the rope, then do the Alpine method my way, but with two strands, leave about six feet loose at the end, only wrap around the rope twice, then push the ends through, don't do the last bight as was shown, take the two six foot ends over your shoulders, center your rope on your back, then cross the six foot ends BEHIND you, over the rope, then around your waist and tie. The rope is not around your neck, its solid and out of the way. I completely disagree with the statement "For our purposes, we're not looking at mountaineering or search and rescue or anything of that nature. If yer going to do that, you are going to take a lot more time." True, I have a rope log for every one of my ropes. Purchase date, usage, falls. And I go through my ropes after use, inch by inch, looking for damage to the kernmantle or damage to the 50,000+ nylon strands that run end to end of my dynamic rope. But then, my life, and the lives of others depend on my ropes. But proper rope handling and rope storage are not time consuming and learning to do things right with your static line camping rope could be the difference in a life lost or a life saved. If you go camping with the idea that nothing will go wrong, you are defeated before you get out the door. The Alpine method, my way, can be released and thrown to someone being washed away in a fast current in less than three seconds, and the rope will almost always completely extend, without tangling. If that could be your twelve year old daughter being ripped away, wouldn't you like to learn to do it right? And the reason you mark the middle of the rope is so that when you are rappelling, you DON'T hook the same spot around the tree or through the carabiner at the same place, putting all that bounding (Bounding is SO BAD a technique) weight on the same place on the rope.
You lost me before the 2:32 minutes mark. That hogwash done by running the rope over your shoulder to “remove” the kinks and twists did nothing besides moving those kinks and twists to the rope already ahead of you, that is the reason the kinks were back when you started coiling your line. To do it right, find a field clear of thickets, sticks and loose debris. Take your line and toss it to extend it before you, if too long walk it our in as straight a line line as possible; removing the kinks in the process. Go to the point you started from and start coiling the rope as you were doing, to eliminate the twists just turn the rope 1/2 turn as you bring it to your hand or coil on the ground if too long or thick for you to hold in one hand. Since you can’t even do this right your video isn’t worth watching through.
Yea, that’s what I do too. Throw all the cords and rope in the back of the truck and then drive around till I find a big open field and then roll everything up the right way. 🙄
If you pull up the rope from behind you and a poisonous spider climbs on to it.. you're only going to find out by the time it bites you on the neck! So might be safer pulling it up in front while you're de-kinking it..
