The landing gear screws are installed from the inside where the aluminum gear is drilled and tapped. This method based on Top Flite manual of instruction is tried and true and produces a strong landing gear all around. This is my 2nd TF Cessna 182 kit. This method has the screws run through the landing gear ply and threaded into the aluminum gear. I suppose you could do this the opposite way where the screws are installed under the fuse through the alum gear and threaded into the landing gear ply block.
I will have to take the plans to a print shop and make copies. Not sure when I can do this at the moment! However when I do I will let you know so that I could get your information to send the plans out.
Nice work again Michael. As a note, the Robart strut is 3/8th, so you might require 3/8th wheel collars . Also, I discovered that the tapered nose Gear basswood bearing block was too small for the Robart strut. This had to be replaced. I also used aluminium sleeves in the mounting holes. I imagined that there would be too much stress on the strut/bearing if you landed nose-first (by mistake). Furthermore, I am currently having issues fitting and aligning the Rudder torque rod. When I move the pushrod in & out, The tiller (top end of the rod going in the rudder) seem to travel at angle up & down rather than left and right. Normally the rudder should be travelling no more than 30 degrees on either side
Not sure exactly what's next. However I still have to finish the Carl Goldberg Extra 300 build. Then I also have the Super Hots I could also build. Also a Top Flite P51 mustang or F4U Corsair would be nice.
Unfortunately not. However if you have the plans or know someone who can cut all the formers etc. Then that would be the best bet. So far Carolina Custom Kit or CCK has a few Top Flite models like the P51, Corsair and Stinson Reliant that they are producing. Hope Mark Ackerman sometime in the future decides to do the Top Flite Cessna 182 kit as well.
Excellent workmanship! Myself are also busy with 182, but not a kit, its a scratch build. Mind maybe share some close up pics and maybe here and there a dimension on the cowling plse.
Outstanding!Beautiful job! Have you ever Carvel planked a wooden boat model? If not you would be outstanding at that too. Was it stronger to tap main gear strut versus through bolt and locknut. Did plans call for tapping? I like the chalk line to transfer contour. Looking forward to next installment.
Instructions called to tap main landing gear. You won't be able to use lock nut unless you make holes in the sheeting or cut and make a hatch. Oh and yes I built a wooden Dumas sailboat kit. Good experience for sure.
@@BayonasRCWorld Copy that. Makes sense. Did you use hot water when saturating the wood to bend, When I bend laminated wingtips and rudders I will add a bit of ammonia to break down wood fiber, would this be appropriate, in this situation? how does CA work on wet wood. Anytime I bend with water I use a traditional wood glue. Your building skills are really exceptional. I’m learning a lot by just watching the tools you use for squaring and leveling.
@@sorenwolff4954 I use warm water however only wet and soak one side of the wood. Then use the edge of a table and roll the sheet off the edge making the form. So the CA is actually on the dry side! But still adhere to the wet side.
@@sorenwolff4954 or you can soak and form then tape in place and let dry. Once dried you have a piece that stays to the form. Now you can glue using wood glue like titebond.
