Doing this build currently. Been a wild ride when it comes to measurements. Went with the darkside crossflow for tube routing. And the barrowch boxfish for pump res. The idea of using the sidemount for the top rad is genius 👌 I seen this video and you my good sir may have solved all my clearance issues I was thinking I may run into. Thanks 😊
I pulled the trigger and got an xspc 240mm slim rad and slim 15mm fans for a top mount in the nr200p after seeing this video. It works great and can be used without modding the case. I just removed the top mesh from the plastic "bracket" and removed the rubber anti-vibration pads and just screwed the radiator in. I then attached the fans on the inside and it works fine without any interference from other parts. It's got some ~3 mm clearance to the psu extension connector and the ram slots on my Asus Rog Strix x570-i gaming mobo. After I get a new GPU, I will start thinking about making a full custom loop so this channel is gold. It has everything I want and more. Don't change a thing! Subscribed.
I cannot stress how amazing the timing of me finding your channel was. Amazing content dude. Perfectly timed for my first custom build. Happy New year!
Found this video early 2024 by searching content related with top mounted AiOs in the NR200p and your video convinced me of starting a project on my case. Thank you very much for the all the examples shown in the video
Love the idea and the little modding. Also, I was able to use an alphacool nexxos xt45 with 15mm fans at the bottom and while its a tight fit, it works fine. Can't wait to get a slim rad up top and add the gpu to the loop. Wifes about to get mad. Lol
@@not2envy no. The pci slot gets blocked by the fan. If I went with a 30mm rad, im sure I could fit a normal fan. Buying 2 new rads to give this mod a whirl
@@PhatKorean i used a 3800x and 2080 super 240mm on bottom with fans mounted under case with 3d printed taller feet 45mm and a 92mm rear rad and my temps under load under 65 and in 50s gaming i used thick 92 mm and mounted that fan outside too use a temp sensor for fan control this thing is silent
Just wanted to say that I have mounted the TX240 on top of the case without any issues and no modding: - Remove top mesh - Remove rubber dampers from fan mounts - Mount rad to the top panel - Mount NF A12-15 - Using X570 Aorus I Pro Wifi It just about clears the ram latch and the power supply extension cable Very happy with it so far!
Fantastic coverage of the various placement choices. TBQH it blew my mind to see you mod it for a top-mount rad. I have the NR200 with a side-mounted PE 240 (NF-F12 fans), bottom-mounted TX240 (NF-A12x15 fans), top-mounted NF-A12x15 (black) fans, Barrow CPU pump/block combo, EVGA 2080 Super HC GPU, and soft tubing with a couple Koolance quick-disconnects. I absolutely love my build but it's very space-constrained compared to yours. Well done.
Thanks for sharing this video. I am glad I went with air cooling ;) I may have suggestion to avoid the PSU mount mod. I used an 10mm long m3 standoff to lower the PSU itself while keeping the PSU cage at its highest position. This way, I was able to mount a 25mm thick fan even with the PSU cage in the SFX-L position. Happy new year to you too!
@@sloqlap hey, sorry for the late reply. I didn’t have 10mm but I used two 5mm standoffs stacked together. The standoffs screw into the PSU and then the PSU screws go into the standoff, lowering the PSU by 10mm. Here’s a link to the standoffs I am using: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-x-5-mm-3-mm-Male-to-Female-Hex-Brass-Spacer-Standoff-50pcs-/184381331891?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Great insights to overcoming the challenges in the case! I have been attempting to figure out laying out watercooling and... gave up. Your videos on air coolers for the NR200 set me straight on what to use. :)
Thank you. Stay healthy and a happy new year. CoolerMaster needs to release a new top panel with extra height and different layout to the mesh so we can screw in a thicker top rad.
Man if I didnt have this video, my mini ITX build would be so much more boring. Thank you so much for your content man! Let me know if you want to see it
happy new year and thanks for the great stuff. with help from your earlier videosi have already completed my nr200 build but am still enjoying watching along as things get crazy
Looks great, cannot wait to see the final product. I ended up using a single rad and really hoping a dual rad solution will be available in the future.
Thanks for this video! Even if I don't go through with the custom loop in the NR200P I at least got a look at the size comparison of the NR200 and 011 mini :)
Happy new year bro, really enjoy your videos, your talking is very fresh and you make videos very appealing and not boring, hope to see more of you next year.
I love the use of that side bracket. I wouldn't even of thought of using that on the top. I plan to add a top radiator, but I am going to try to 3d print an extended top panel making the case ~30mm taller. On the res another good option is the EK FLT120. I have mine mounted to the front of the PSU & it took drilling 4 holes in the included mounting brackets to line up with some that were already in the PSU shroud.
Interesting idea! The FLT120 is nice but there is a limitation with it- I don't think there's enough clearance for it directly on the PSU shroud. It's 86mm thick and you have roughly 90mm of clearance, not too much room for fittings and tubing runs. You would have to rotate the PSU shroud and mount it facing the back. You do get a D5 option though.
@@MachinesMore that’s the d5 version. The ddc one is 58mm think. With alphacool 90’s on the front it still leaves plenty of space before the tempered glass panel
@@MachinesMore I actually have the D5 version installed in my NR200P right now. It was a crazy close fit, in two different ways. Depth-wise, there are only a few mm between the front of the reservoir and the glass panel. In terms of height, I had to move the PSU shroud to the SFX-L position so that the FLT 120 would be high enough for the bottom fittings to clear my GPU. (I'm using one 90-degree fitting out to the GPU intake, and one 45-degree fitting out and down to the back rear corner of the TX240 cross-flow.) I originally planned to use the DDC version, but it was out of stock on Black Friday (at Titan Rig and PPCS), so I crossed my fingers and bought the D5 version. I really lucked out that it fit!
Currently doing a custom hardline loop in my nr200p with the same pump along with a corsair water block and 92mm rad in the back. I'm only water cool the cpu.
Do you think cards like the XFX 6800 at are out of spec for the case(Length 10mm over) can fit into the nr200p? Mods or not? I assume cable management would not be the best in that circumstance but regardless
Hey I've watched many of your videos but unfortunately can't recall if you covered this, so here goes. The two sickleflow fans are producing a resonance, not in the sense that most people have reported with this case (usually it's more of a clicking), but for me the case is transmitting their rpms as a very audible, pitched hum. I am wondering if this is an issue with the case itself, or if I would still be fine with the usual solution of switching to noctuas. Thanks so much!
SuperVideo. What a reference channel for this SFF theme. Finally and afrer many dudes i get a h100i Corsair Capellix for my Ryzen 5900 and i will put in the side panel. This option makes impossible the use of the tempered cristal panel. Would fit this Corsair AIO on the top?. Happy year!!!
Love the content on this case as always man. A quick one, as you can easily remove the top mesh surely this means you can add any fans you want at the top? I gather you just need to be very careful if screwing fans in, as the mounting material is plastic? Thanks
Sweet! It’s fine to do it that way, screwing fans in is fine- the plastic is quite rigid but since you have rubber grommets you don’t need to over tighten anyway. From a maintenance standpoint a bit more hassle since if you want to take off the fans for any reason the whole mesh has to come off again, but other than that it’s OK. I found the mesh quite bendy so be careful handling it, since you could get small creases that won’t necessarily bend back.
Hey love your videos! I am planning a similar build and using the Barrow Pump/Block combo. Just to clarify in your video you mentioned that the 2600 pump is weaker. Were you referring to the Barrow combo unit or the Alphacool DCLT? Also you can definitely lower the PSU with 4 standoff screws instead of cutting the PSU shroud mount. But I prefer to dremel as little as possible.
You’re right- I was referring to the DC-LT/Alphacool 2600. The PSU standoff mod is a good idea too, just will seat the PSU outside the shroud but is an easy one. Agreed on Dremeling-try to do all mods such that it’s easy to go back to stock if needed.
Can i ask, if the 240 on top rad is too deep that would hit the ram lach, how about 120mm rad... So botom 240 + 120 should be enough for my 10900k and rtx 3080?
First of all, thank you very much for this interesting video :) 1. I hope that the upcoming liquid cooled build that will follow these mods will have some high end gpu such as 3080 and also cpu such as 5900x, since I don't think that anyone with lower end gpus/cpus would put so much money into custom loop, so please if you could do a benchmark of these parts or even high ones(3080/5950x) I would really appreciate that 2. Have you seen the 17mm 240 cooper radiator that you can get on Ali or Taobao ? What do you think about it in terms of cooling and would you think it would fit without mods to the case when combined with 15mm noctuas ? Could you maybe do a comparison of that radiator to the TX240 (both in top position) as a secondary radiator to the bottom one (so 2x240 rad build) ? 3. Also on Ali you can actually find only 12mm high fans, do you think that those would make TX240 fit without mods ? Or if not, then maybe with the before mentioned 17mm high rad, so that you will essentially get just a 29mm high solution ? 4. Do you think that the barrow cpu/pump block combo can handle 2x 240mm rads + cpu + gpu blocks with somehow not disturbing noise(I mean not pump on full throttle) ? Sorry for such a long comment and many questions :)
I know you did this a while ago but I have a question for you: could you modify the motherboard mounting bracket to move it lower to fit an AIO up top? I have a dual AIO setup and would like to try this case. I am thinking of modifying this motherboard bracket to lower it down, lowering GPU clearance to 2 slot but then allowing me to fit the side rad and also a top rad.
Yes, you will have to widen the IO cutout too (you will have to cut into the top slot) but this should be fine with the right GPU. Also the cutout in the back of the mobo won’t line up right but that’s more of an inconvenience than anything else.
happy new year from france, was planning this setup with the small pump res from corsair.....and i am very confused.......doesn't the pump have a bracket or standard mounting hole ? i don't want to put holes in my new case XD
Can you please show us if a front mounted HDD is possible (behind the front panel where two 2.5 ssd can be mounted) in default case settings? if not then what should be the mods for that? #TIA
i used a 3800x and 2080 super 240mm on bottom with fans mounted under case with 3d printed taller feet 45mm and a 92mm rear rad and my temps under load under 65 and in 50s gaming i used thick 92 mm and mounted that fan outside too use a temp sensor for fan control this thing is silent
This is amazing! I hope CM is taking notes and allows the v2 NR200 (NR210?) to allow moving the rad mount between the side panel or the top. Also, if you were using an integrated block/pump, could you do a 240 + 240 + 280 triple rad setup? Maybe less for looks but for raw performance.
That would be an easy option to implement for a v2, I think. For the triple rad, you could definitely do that, or I think a reasonable compromise would be run a 120 over the mobo side of the house and a regular pump/res on the front end. 240+240+120 would cool most components today at very comfortable fan speeds.
Nice mod- not having a default top radiator mount option is the only thing that turned me away from this case. Funny thing is I ended up going air-cooled on my Sliger S620
@@MachinesMore no- they are shipping out this coming mid-week. I believe these are November orders coming out. I ordered early December, I’m hoping I’ll get it before Feb- I’ll let you know when the build is done!
Now that you are cutting on the case, I wonder about placing the PSU on the front panel mounting slots with a hole cut in the interior panel to allow the PSU to face away from the case interior intaking air from the front of the case. Of course the exterior front panel would need to have ventilation slots or holes added for PSU intake air draw.
from all these builds i see online i dont see anyone doing a water build with the vertical gpu setup and a thicker radiator on the bottom. like a 40mm 240 rad and regular 25mm fans which should clear the pcie cable and then using the borrow cpu/pump/res combo, throw in some soft black tubing and quick release connectors and call it a day.
You could absolutely do that. It will clear the riser. Even with a thicker rad though you're probably on par with an air cooled setup though. Of course, performance is not the whole point, necessarily right?
@@MachinesMore just verified that a 45mm rad and a 25mm fan will not fit under the riser cable. Luckily I had vardar fans already when I got the rad so I order a pair of noctua slim fans for the build.
First of all, thanks for all of your content, I am actually building my own custom loop with a NR200p and your videos are really useful. We have almost the same build ( same MB, same PSU, same RAM...) and during my tests for mounting a top radiator, i end up strugling with some connectors, especially the D-RGB / RGB connectors. So my question is : Is it enough clearance for the D-RGB and RGB connectors with your mod ? Or is it really tight ?
You’ll have to go with a pump in CPU block unit, most likely, or a separate pump and res, since the rad and fans would interfere with the normal pump/res placement.
3 года назад
I wonder if it would be possible to mount 2x240 (top & bottom) and a 240 or even a 280 on the side?
Not being able to use a regular rad on the top sucks hard (for me). I have a Corsair 240mm AIO and as GN said, bottom mounting is terrible for the life of the rad. Also side mounting the rad hides everything. Might have to sadly go with an air cooler for this one 😢
@@MachinesMore Yes sir. But since im shelving my Corsair AIO because it wont fit, I bought the Scythe Mugen 5 as its .5 mm below what they say fits and from what ive seen on yours and other channels, it fits and has great performance.
It should, about 90-95mm of clearance to the backplate of the card, the barrow block is 64mm (and the fitting area is recessed) so there should be enough room for the cable run. On the bottom even with a thicker rad you have plenty of clearance. The only thing is you will have to be pretty strategic on the direction the tubing takes to between GPU block and the pump block, since those will be very close together.
can nt be easy just move motherboard 50mm lower and make new 4 mounting holes and cut out from back aol shield as well. I got this idea, but my case is coming, after long time searching i choice this nr200p, but was thinking about Jonsplus i100 Pro, but deside i want something smaller.
Hi there, I've been watching your videos for quite some time and it made me decide to upgrade from my 900D tower to NR200! I just love how it looks and want to upgrade my old PC. Originally I was planning on getting 5900 + 6800 XT (Stock is available in my country for any card 6800 XT/3080) with U12A 2 top fans and 2 bottoms fans. In your previous videos you've mentioned that C14S would provide better results but that would only allow 1 top fan (A12x25) with that said 6800 XT is huge in height and will allow only A12x15.. Would you still favor that setup (C14S, 1 top fan, 2 bottom a12x15 or it would be better U12A with 2 top fans ? Would 3080 be better with 2 A12x25 at bottom? Why did you move back to U12A ? Your opinion would really help, thanks in advance!
Good move! The C14S is the one I'd go with as long as you're set on the vented panel. If that's the panel you want to go with I would recommend that setup you described. If you want to do a little extra work you can get a slim fan above it too. The reason for the U12A was because I was doing comparisons between the vented panel and the tempered glass, so with that setup I needed to go with something that works with either panel. You can get any 6800XT or 3080 where you are? That sounds pretty cool.
If the 6800 dont fit with 2 fans below you can deshroud it, removing the GPU fans and keeping the hetsink. Then put the fans and voila, better cooling for gpu
@@MachinesMore Thanks for the reply man, very appreciated!! Is there any difference between C14S with 1 top fan and 2 bottom A12x25 with vented panel VS U12A/2 top fan/2 bottom A12x25 Glass/Vented? I live in Israel and everything is overpriced here due to taxes on electronics/cars and etc.. Everything is available here however costs twice the price of normal price, for example 3080 costs between 1200-1500 USD and I can't find the 3080 FE. This is the price if I want to have warranty. I want 6800 XT however the temps are higher and driver issues and issue with fitting fans below 6800 XT (For example Sapphire Nitro+) might be proving to me that 3080 is the choice. I might wait for 3080 TI to come out hence my questions. I just want the best Air cooling possible for a solid build that will last me years. Sorry if I'm asking too much. Have a great year and keep doing what you're doing my man, this channel is so good! Best wishes from Israel.
Shalom aleichem! The new Sapphire coolers look to be very good and hope to review one on the channel here shortly. In terms of a difference... the C14S is a little better than the U12A for thermals overall, but the U12A tends to favor the CPU. If you are thinking of using the glass panel at all then definitely go with the U12A. It is a tight fit with most motherboards and the glass panel but it will work if you screw in the panel. I would pick the GPU based on how much performance you want. That should be the first consideration, then pick based on thermal performance at that point. Good luck!
and i have an sfxl, to big to what so ever. im think of moving the psu to the front, and in the place of the psu put an 140mm fan to suck all the air off and do some help to my msi gaming x 5600xt wich also is to fat. to vertical gpu and bottom aio im looking for EKWB MLC Phoenix 240
Yup! It’s not great stout but hard to find outside of Asia. A colleague was kind enough to bring me a few from China, just sorta kept one can around as a collector’s item.
Cool, cool. I like to try different beers, especially dark ones. I first had Tsingtao at a Chinese restaurant on spring break in Reno. They told me it was the only "real Chinese beer" you could get in the U.S. - not sure if that was true or not. I do recall thinking their motto should be "Tsingtao - it tastes like beer!" :)
I don't get why you went through the trouble of fixing the rad to the top, but then stuck one in the bottom as well. I think it would be better to move the mother board bracket and everything else down so that there is plenty of room for a rad at the top, that way you wont need the rad at the bottom that is taking up space.
It depends on the airflow layout but two thin rads would be better than one thick one, especially from a noise perspective. If running a thick rad I would look into vGPU and bottom mounting the rad vs going through the trouble to fit a thick rad at the top.
yo !! hey check this out !! i may have found a way to mount the XD3 pump without mods , the psu bracket !! you know how the back of the psu have those holes ??? well turns out that you can fit ( with a washer ) screws to fit the 120 mm fan mounting bracket included in the box with the pump/res, because the engineers use even numbers, i had a feelings this could work ! if you can test it and it fit, well good luck !
I think so, you would use some screws and nuts to mount the bracket, the rails should line up with the PSU holes well enough that you could do it that way.
You can use this kind of "all-in-one" solution from Barrow as cpu water block + pump + reservoir: www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html, it's mentioned in one of the Optimum Tech videos ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SBIWgKmwr68.html but it has some flaws: the mounting screws are falling through the springs and needs some washers to prevent that; you need to buy a cap for filling port (also fittings not included); you will unable to fill it properly until you buy some 90deg adapter to filling port as shown in his video. Currently I building up kind of custom loop with this thing in nr200p. Actually it's my second attempt, the first try was fail, because I didn't consider that the soft tubes not that soft as I thought, lol. For now I will just put one 240 rad at the side, and hope it will be enough for 5900x. Sadly I can't find that XSPC TX240 rad in stock anywhere, would like to use it as top radiator with custom hat mod like this one: worklogs.coolermaster.com/topic/28848-nr200p-addaptation-for-rtx-3080/ Lately I will consider watercool my 3090 Suprim X and will look at 3 rad setup in this case tho. The card barely fits despite it out of spec in length and its f*cking hot, so I left my side panel open all the time so card be able to blow all hot air out of case. Great content btw. Cheers and hello from Russia!
Greetings to Russia! And Happy New Year! Yeah, I'm not big on the Barrow block because of some of the potential compromises, plus here in the US that thing is pretty pricey. I think the Swiftech Apogee Drive II should be a better option. What tubing did you go with? 10/16 is stiffer but kinks less. You could always go with something like 12/16 for a bit more flex while still maintaining integrity. I want to say that for your setup you could definitely get by with 2 rads, just use quiet fans at a higher RPM and it should be fine, but yeah if you can get three that would be best.
It’s about 21mm behind the removable front panel and the outside of the inner frame. The FLT stand-alone res is about 25mm so probably won’t work- the tubing run would have worked well since there’s that huge GPU slot cut out.
@@MachinesMore my plan is to use on top a HJ 240mm 17mm Radiator Copper on the back Alphacool NexXxoS ST25 Full Copper 92mm, Radiator and on the bottom XSPC TX240 CrossFlow Ultrathin Radiator and the EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 120 DDC PWM D-RGB the only problem is gettin a case in stock ._. and the alphacool radiator
@@MachinesMore Then my other, even crazier idea, might be better. Replace the entire front panel with a Distro plate panel + pump. Now I just gotta find someone to make such a thing.