Hello Quinn - there will no doubt be interest in Eccentric Engineering tool holders, but your viewers may benefit from knowing that the popular 10mm size will be unavailable just now. I heard from Gary on July 19 that the usual foundry was closing, and a new supplier had to be found. There are few to pick from in Australia, and he prefers to keep production in-country. I was further told that prices will take a considerable rise, and that availability of that size was anticipated for mid September if things progress well. Distribution will originate only from Australia, so purchasers should expect a jolt from shipping cost. Sorry 😞
As a Kiwi I was pleasantly surprised on finding they were made (and shipped) from Aussie after Quinn last recommended them. A lot cheaper than getting cool tools shipped from the US or UK. Was definitely one of the best little lathe tool purchases I made, well worth it.
"Leaking steam engine fittings are either maddening or perfectly normal depending on how British you are" 🤣 That bit had me creasing Brilliant video as always, Quinn. Very informative.
@@EngineerRaisedInKingston doesn't surprise me. It's not just our high pressure steam fittings that leak. My experience with domestic plumbing has shown me that much especially on Christmas morning just gone when I woke up and found I could take a shower in my kitchen
I must admit, Quinn got a giggle out of me with that line. Let's face it, the Brit stuff leaks. This is why on some English cars, there was an engine oil tank that you fill every time you go for a drive. While the engines are not total loss types, there is a miles per quart standard to be considered. There is a channel out there by the name of Tweed's Garage that tends to show this sort of thing.
I've worked in the machine tool industry for over 50 years, both as a machinist/tool and die maker and a mechanical designer. I'll have to say after watching your videos that I can't find much to disagree with. I had my own shop for 10 years and if I still had it, I'd hire you in a minute. Keep up the good videos!
@@WoodworkingforAnyone Well as a hobbyist, I think she does pretty good. Reminds me of when I first got in the machine trades in the early 70s. Most shops didn't have CNC so every thing was manual and you had to come up with all kinds of ideas to get the job done
My dearest Quinn... please please please DO many more videos like this! For every hobby machinist this is absolute gold! how often you get around a tool and you buy it with no particular reason...maybe even just because you like it or because the tool looks very well made. and then after a while you are not able to realise how you could life without this tool before. Or do you know this feeling when you are in a workshop or hobby shop from a friend and looking around with big eyes and see his/her solutions for storage or see some tools you did not know before... Or sometimes you are in a hobbyshop from somebody that makes something totally different as you do, maybe some woodworks or leather or cloths etc... and then see a tool that is the real solution for some problem which was a real pain in the a** for years??? that was always my way to find tools or solutions and mostly this is a hard or at least a time consuming way. Long story short... Quinn your vids are great! Always very good infos, real well explained,never boring and its always nice to see you😊 When I'm home from work and maybe havin a beer and watch some blondihacks.... its like havin a beer with a friend. Well and I think this is the real goal when making videos like you Quinn, that people really lookin forward for the next video:-)
I bought the diamond tool holder several years ago and at first I wasn't too crazy about it 😊 Now tho that I got used to it I would say it is in my lathe 90% of the time. It is just that versatile. My next task is to take the time to master grinding a cutter for threads.
Same. Was expensive to import but worth it. Picked up the Turnado as well which is a lot of fun. If i can fit a nice handle to something you can bet the turnado is coming out!
After seeing how much used the diamond cutter got on this chanel, I also bought one. Great easy to use much better than grinding all those traditional hss tool bits
For endmill holding in my tail stock I've found an ER32 collet chuck with a Morse taper works very well. Love your channel-you've taught me many techniques that fit my style of machine shop.
ER20 or 25 may be better for smaller stuff or very small machines? Plus, as you almost point out, you only need one chuck and a set of collets which can be swapped around on different machines and fixtures (rotary table, head-stock, spin indexer, etc) Personally, I find it far more convenient than actual mill holders which I have very few of.
LOL You just haven't lived until you have done the sacrificial thing with the table on say a Haas VS-3 and have cut a slot on a long angle across the whole table. Such fun. OOPS.
Great thing about the "diamond" tool holder is that you can buy cheap 6mm square blanks, grind up a load of cutters (do both ends) in a matter of minutes and then never have to touch the grinder again for months because you have loads of sharp cutters on hand.
@@ellieprice363 you are over- complicating things. @caskwith is correct- use 6mm square HSS blanks, ground once in the provided jig and the tool is ready to use.
@@ellieprice363The other commenters are right - the whole point of this tool is that it creates the correct clearances by holding the blank at a compound angle. The blank is square. The diamond shape on the top face is created by grinding that face (and _only_ that face) at a compound angle. The rest are stock faces.
My favourite workshop tool is my Dad. If I can't figure out how to make something or get stuck on a project, I just tell my Dad about it and he usually has some suggestion that helps. Even if it doesn't work first time, just having that different perspective/approach is sometimes enough to break out of the rut and find the solution.
We had a Henkel rep come and visit the last company I worked at and he said a press fit between a pin and hole only has about 30% actual interference contact -- you can imagine if there are peaks and valleys on both surface finishes, only the peaks wedge together. By contrast, an adhesive with admittedly lower yield strength can achieve 100% contact and result in a stronger joint. He obviously had the incentive of selling Henkel Loctite products, but it was a fascinating talk (with a hands on "arts and crafts" session) that was extremely detrimental to the effort I put into press fits!
Broken drills can easily be ground with a flat end with some clearance and when used in a partially drilled hole will give you a square bottomed hole that matches the drill size bearing in mind drills measure under the finished hole size.
Given how cheap drill bits are, even cobalt ones, you can just grind your own fairly easily from a cheap set. After all, when did any of us last break a drill bit? (Though actually, I broke a 1.5mm the other day when the drill fell over. First one in many, many years though.)
Work around for the end mill in the tailstock? Hold it in the tool post instead. They work as boring bars if aligned with the end of the flute horizontal.
Under size Reamer: Run it in reverse and hold a fine whetstone to it Oversize Reamer: Use a 3-edge-scraper and create burrs at the cutting edges of the reamer. Try it in some scrap material until desired diameter is reached. Different cutting fluids also have influence to the diameter. Deburring Holes Backside: Use a small boring bar for thread cutting and scrape the burr away
In a pinch I’ve made a punch on the lathe. Drill a center hole in some O1 rod, then turn an angle on the outside to put an edge on it. Whatever size hole you need, that’s the drill size. Works great for gaskets.
Well, no comment becomes no recommendation, due to an algorithm. So due to another factor I call great information, here is my effort to contribute to the proliferation of this channel. Also note it's simply another great Australian product. Thanks lady!
Wow! I'm especially fond of the thin parallels and that "Diamond" tool holder (I wonder if they make those for the 8mm WW lathes)! Oh, and one thing my supervisor taught me about those Scotch Bright wheels is (after you dress them) grind on a scrap of (hard)wood! Not sure if it's the wood fibers or the resin, but it makes the wheel cut metal way more efficiently without getting as hot! ;)
Unfortunately the smallest "Diamond" tool holder has an 11mm deep shank and takes a 1/4 inch square insert; it's sized to suit a Myford ML7 or similar sized machine. They were originally sold by Don Burke who did sell a smaller version that took a 3/16 insert and for a while one sized to suit the Unimat 3 - I regret not buying when they were available! There are a few RU-vid videos about making your own tangential tool holder so good luck!
i have a sheet metal worker back ground (aka tin knocker) and i have a roper whitney jr punch #5 that i picked up at a garage sale for $5 25 years ago that pretty much provides me with hole punching, very handy when you loose a few lbs and need a new hole in a belt. they make bigger ones that will punch a variety of hole sizes in 1/4" angle iron and other things. there's even a thing called a combi that will bend and cut, bend, and punch a variety of small straps and angle irons
I built UL508A boiler control panels. DeWalt pilot point the perfect drill for thin sheet metal. The flutes cut the outside edge first , so no grabbing the last chip like a common drill bit will with sheet metal. Most Hoffman type enclosures we used were close to 16ga thickness. So these drills were great for door holes for pilot lights or a starting hole for a square cut out.
I worked in a factory making exercise equipment. We used Loctite 680 to permanently affix an aluminum disk threaded to an iron flywheel. it was the wrong size and we were told later, to disassemble them. We didn't know about heating the parts up (I was 18, cut me some slack) Anyway, most of the time the aluminum threads broke off! That's some amazing chemical engineering.
1st time viewer, enjoyed the video. I'm just a home repair / hobby DIYer. I didn't think that I'd be able to make a contribution, but my dad showed me how to make reasonably clean holes in leather just by using an ordinary punch on leather backed by sacrificial soft wood. Sure, sometimes you have to really whale on the punch, but the holes are clean. I have never needed holes of any particular dimension, and God knows that the hole punch tool shown can't be so expensive as to need a work around, but if a hole punching tool isn't handy, well, then you need a work around.
For those wanting a Tangential Tool Holder for small lathes like Sherlines and Taigs, I have written an article on how to build one from scratch (plus the bit holder for the grinding tool in order to get the perfect diamond shape every time) in the January/February 2009 issue of The Home Shop Machinist. I guess with some adaptation, the overall idea could be used for bigger lathes/bits by the DIY fans or by those who have trouble explaining why they need more money investment in the hobby home shop.
A wheel of MDF with abrasive grit on it can do amazing things. Be careful about RPM and stand to the side on your first spin-up. Want a glass edge on cutting tools? Just use a fine grit.
HEY ,Lady love the loco yer doin quite detailed and shows great skill hole punches are available in larger sizes looking like a chisel chineese freight they can be fairly easily made with common materials but for metal you may need a heat treat oven and possibly a small grinder setup for the lathe for sharpening gaskets not so much but im sure these things , you already know cant wait to see the crazy train runnin off the rails Mike
I just purchased thin parallels on sale and already have a few of the other things but will add more. I suspect that your next list might include stub drills, I love mine.
Glue has made an unbelievable development the last decades there are glue solutions as string as welding the car industrie glues things that were welded decades ago 😊
I just purchased a South Bend 9". My motorcycle took a backseat for family priorities; now, 40 years later, it's on my bench, and in the past month, I have found myself daydreaming about how to find a machinist to make custom parts. Before the family came, I hung out at my buddy's street rod garage, which was filled with years of experienced men from all professions, all willing to help each other. I thought everyone had this garage at their disposal; now I realize it was a goldmine. But they're all gone now. So I'm starting over, hence the South Bend. I've never turned on a lathe, so beginner is an understatement. Your videos, along with many others, will replace the street rod garage, and they will put it in my basement. Thank you for taking the time and effort to post clear and concise videos to help us rookies.
The tangential tool holder is still widely used, it has just been modernised a bit, to use inserts instead of holding a piece of tool steel :) They're used a lot in cnc turning precisely because they allow working on two faces without changing tool.
2 sets of adjustable and 1 set of thin parallels should be a sort of standard in any machinists tools. Every bit as important as your 123 blocks and screw jacks.
I ended up picking up on the using adjustable ones to replace gage block stacks from these videos and when measuring good god it's saved me so much time
I’ve been in the trade for many many years I just watch and see what you found important I was still impressed. You did a good job. I think you should make another top 10.
Most used tool in the workshop would be the bench grinder fitted with a "Portagrind" belt sanding attachment. The bench grinder takes grinding wheels, wire brushes and a spindle for polishing buffs on one end. On the other end of the bench grinder, the belt sander takes sanding and scotchbrite belts. The Portagrind also has a vertical disc for stick on sanding discs and has a protractor guide for sanding angles. You can also get attachments for sharpening drills and chisels. I have had this tool for 50 years. Refitted the tool to a new bench grinder recently. This and an arc welder were the first tools I bought for the workshop after changing careers and leaving working in a workshop for good. Timber, metal, plastics etc. can be ground and polished.
Great video! Never knew about the tangential tool holders but they make so much sense. Another parallel if you like the thin ones but want a little different functionality is wavy/ spring parallels. They are also very thin, you can maneuver them so the wave isn't in the way of your holes, and they wont fall over when taking your parts out. You touched on it a little when talking about reamers. But if you can't wait for a reamer and you need an oversized hole. You can really dial in how much oversized a hole will drill by grinding or honing the cutting edge. Grab some scrap material and turn it onto swiss cheese till you get the right size. Love the vids and so glad you and the community are so willing to share all this knowledge built up over lifetimes.
If you need a thread locker that is heat resistant, try Rocksett. I work with firearms, and when affixing silencers, or muzzle devices, you need something extremely heat resistant. Because barrels get hot. Sometimes very hot. Rocksett releases by soaking it for around 12 hours in cold water. Otherwise, it's not coming off.
Great video Quinn, I actually have an ER16 collet chuck for my tailstock, it holds end mills and taps really well when they are needed. My collet chuck also had a draw bar thread thread in the end, so I machined a bolt to enable the auto eject. Just for context, I am in the UK but I have a 1938 9" swing South Bend lathe, with I absolutely love.
Look at a Roper Whitney punch. The number 5 makes really neat holes, in convenient sizes, in sheet metal as well as leather and such. Got a used one for the same price as a new leather punch.
I love my Diamond point tangential tool bit for the lathe! I've been threatening for a while to make one that uses either 3/8 or preferably 1/2 inch tool bits for my larger lathe.
One workaround for the scotchbrite wheel is roloc disks, also made by 3M. They're available at most auto supply stores and are intended to be used in a die grinder for prepping gasket surfaces. You can use them in a drill, but they work better in a die grinder due to the higher speed.
If your Morse taper holder gets stuck...you can also try a tie rod end remover/pickle fork.... remove the tailstock & rest it on a bench before you hit it with a hammer..if your wrench trick doesn't work...great tips... 👍
8:45 Wait a minute! I want to know more about this relationship between how British one is and their place on the "perfectly normal" to "maddening" spectrum of steam fitting leakage. 🤔
"I've cracked the code, folks! Quinn must have installed a hidden future camera in my shop, because every time she gushes about a new favorite thing, I swear the UPS man comes up the driveway with it in a box. And she thought I wouldn't figure it out.
though de walt didn't invent them, the pilot point drill is used for drilling a nearly punch perfect hole in thin sheet material without tearing the heck out of it.
One option for punched holes in soft material "work around" in some applications....depending on the material....and not nearly as accurate as the leather punch.... is one of those refillable butane pocket torch lighters found at the convenience store counter for $5. Use a dental pick that tapers from a fine to thick point to slightly expand the hole by eyeball. Butane gets rather hot rather quick so its a fast process when in a rush. Dip the pick in a nearby can of old oil while its hot if you're worried about annealing your pick to bring back the hardness somewhat. It does leave a melted edge but if you've got a pair of smooth jaw plyers or channel locks at hand, quickly press it flat before it dries. It flattens out the melted edge and simultaneously seals it closed....thus forgiving the oversized hole that you just melted a tad too much.
I'll give you a better solution. Take your drill and whatever the size of hole you need drill bit, go down 10%, then run the drill bit *backwards* with lots of pressure. The friction will heat and melt the plastic. It'll give great round holes which (on 3D prints) are stronger than the layers were beforehand, as well as being nicely round. Fish the excess melted plastic out (before it fully hardens again), then repeat with a closer size to get exactly the size hole you want.
My suspicion for the intended use for the pilot point drill bits is for socket head screws. You would drill the clearance for the head with it and afterwards drill clearance for the treads.
545.... YES! I absolutely love that stuff. Seems like threads are so poorly made on big-box store parts these days. 545 makes it so that all of my compressed air equipment stays pressurized for as long as I need. And that other loctite, THANK YOU. I always wondered about it when I saw you using it. OMG. That back side deburring tool. THANK YOU. That's something that has always driven me insane. I've got one of the wobble blade Nogas, and just like you showed, it's not ideal. One of my favorites is the optical center punch. It makes things so much easier, especially when you don't have good lighting. Thanks Quinn. My wallet will soon by lighter but hopefully things will be easier and better.
for the hole punch: you also have dedicatedd gasket punches. 2 styles are available: 1 is where the gasket is pinched between 2 steel plates with the correct size hole and then you punch ith a flat bottom punch. The second style is a kind of handle on which you screw then needed cutter. the second style is also useful for cutting concentric circles which are useful for pipe gaskets
After viewing this, I ordered the set of Tangential Cutting Tools from Eccentric Engineering. Received them last night and just had to try them out at one o'clock in the morning (lol). Wow! these are AWESOME!
Can vouch for Loctite 680, used that stuff at my old job for a lot of things... The surface area that it can grab and hold is AMAZING. Even found a way to get it to hold even harder too, light film on both parts and some warming after... Seemed to really strengthen the bond. Also holds up to more heat than you think, I've used it to glue together an alumina TIG gas lens nozzle to get by... Lasts quite a while before you have to glue it back together again (maybe 30 minutes?) Recently used it to glue a vertical bushing into a front lower control arm on my car, pressing in one went in a little cocked and streched the bore slightly, so it was a slip fit. 680 fixed that right up.
Careful with regularly heating up Loctite. Some (most?) Of them are cyanide compounds so heating the up in an enclosed environment can be very bad for you. I'd be concerned if you're regularly welding with a locticted tool with your head nearby breathing in what comes out of there.
@@zenengineer5803 No worries, it wasn't in a home shop type environment, heavy industrial with PPE, etc etc. Like I said, it was just to get by for a day while I waited for the supplies to show up from the welder supply (supervisor was taking his time ordering stuff, I'm sure you know how that goes). As I recall, as it was about to give out, what smoke did come off got mostly carried away with the shielding gas anyway.
Flat Bottom drill... Instead of playing with your endmills ect.. After you drill a hole that needs a flat bottom. Just sacrifice another drill the same size by grinding the tip off flat and then relieve cutting edge.
Must have tools (job shop) Bunch of small files; lots of shapes, steel and diamond. Kennametal Top Notch holders and inserts. Blanks can be custom ground in shop for virtually anything or purchased pre-formed. Threading, grooving, turning, profile, form tools; kinda like the carbide version of HSS... Thinbit. Same as Top Notch but offers small order custom services and the holders are very versatile (swap RH/LH, OD groove to face groove, OD to ID, etc). Seco Mini-Shaft. Steel or carbide shank, great for small ID work (depending on your definition of small), grooving, threading, turning, profiling, back chamfer. RH or LH, just swap the insert.
The Diamond tool holder is really good. It will take a very, very fine cut and leaves an excellent finish, much better than carbides. You have to be careful as they will burn up if pushed too hard.
The hole size of 1 reamer can be changed by rpm and chip load, try leaving.005 at fast rpm and try .008 and slow rpm, you would be surprised how heat changes the size of a smooth reamed hole.
Some great ideas there. I know you have moved to Western Canada so I hope you are safe with all the fires going on now. We are getting beat up pretty bad in the Okanagan but everyone is helping each other so people are safe and sound.
A good workaround for the hole-punch, at least for a couple of pieces. I put a centering-cone in a piece of steel, then turn the outside diameter down to the hole size. The combo of the centering cone and OD cause a 'sharp edge' that I can use on a piece of wood with a hammer to create a hole-punch.
I love the tack punch. Sometimes I've found the selection of sizes for very small or very large holes. There are hammer punches in a very wide range of sizes that are very affordable. (And with percussive persuasion you can abuse them through harder/ thicker material than the squeeze😊)
Huh; never thought of using a leather hole punch like you show. I use my set of hollow hole punches for any gasket work. Puzzled that you didn't suggest using them instead.
I just used my tack punch on nylon webbing... bravo on your scotchbrite wheel's long life. I've worked with individuals that can consume one in the blink of an eye.
I hadn't realized those thin parallels come in larger sets. I tried to find a set of parallels for my mill and its 75x25mm vise, and I found that in most parallel sets half of the set would be higher than my vise jaws. So I found a place that sells parallels in pairs, and I bought 5-10-15-20 mm and 6-7-8-9 mm, reasoning I'd be able to make any height from 6-25 mm in 1mm increments from those.
Great video with lots of good information. A suggestion for a work around for the hole punch tool suggestion would be to use a short piece of steel brake line if you happen to come from an automotive background and have a short piece left over after flaring a brake line fitting. The steel lines can also be purchased as 12" made up lines (3/16", 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameters) with inverted flares and nuts on each end that are straight. These can be cut in two in the middle with a tubing cutter, the nuts removed and then the line deburred (or ground using a fine grinding wheel) to remove the conical shape created during the cutting of the line so the edge is crisp and thin like the rest of the tubing. The end can now be filed on the inside with a small round file to create a sharp cutting edge. Place a piece of gasket material on a plastic (or wood) cutting board and then use the tubing to cut a hole by hitting the flared end gently with a plastic or wooden hammer - it will also cut leather and other soft materials such as cardboard and paper. This allows a nice round hole to be created in the center of a large piece of gasket material that may be difficult to do with the hole punch tool you showed as the throat of it may not be deep enough. The metal tubing can also have the flared end removed and then be clamped in a drill press chuck (or battery operated drill if you have a steady hand) and ran at a slow speed if you want to add some down force to cut through multiple layers of material - we used to use the tubing like that to drill new punch holes in automotive catalogs (which could be two inches thick) so they would fit in some of the catalog racks years ago before things went digital - made a great paper punch as long as you cleaned out the inside of the tubing often so the paper did not get built up and jammed inside the hole in the tubing. Companies also make sets of gasket punches for people who have the thick bottomless wallets and want the real thing. Another option would be to take a piece of round stock the appropriate size and machine and drill or bore the end to create a cutting punch if a special size was desired or you could create a complete set if you found it was something you were using a lot. 🙂
