From "The Living Curl" (1965, 2008), a surf film by Jamie Budge Available at: www.thelivingcurl.com Brass Tacks Press / Lower Topanga Archive: www.brasstackspress.com ...
Both of Jamie's films on DVD are worth having in your collection for watching when you feel like a reminder of what surfing used to be like before it got so serious and focused on the commercial side.
I remember Jamie Budge when I was a grom at Malibu and Topanga circa 1968. Great surfer as can be seen here. That's damn good surfing for only surfing one year.
the first surfer in the film, Dave Stewart (SP?), was my next door neighbor during the sixties. He was friends with Ricky & Lanny Hoffman, who lived up the block, and got him into the Malibu Club, as I recall. The Hoffman's were buddies with Lance Carson, and they would make their own boards in the garage of their Dad's home. All were malibu Surfing Association members. Dave went to UCLA film school, and did color "opticals" for a number of surf films in the late 60's. He was friends with Mason Williams (Laugh-In 1 minute collages, set to the tune of Mason's "classical gas" instumental), and took me to one of their film gathering at Mason's house on Mullholland Dr. Dave later moved to Australia in the 70's, and I lost track of him...
OMG my mom used to surf there LOL … I was still a bit young … what a freaking era! … love the music and this golden era when things moved lots more slowly hanging out on the nose with wonderful big bottom turns … my dad took 8mm of these guys at Malibu that was lost 😢 … now it’s all just about cutting up waves and longest barrels.
I read that Dorai reached out to Fain shortly before he died to make amends. For some reason Johnny didn't really reciprocate the offer. When Greg Noll talks about the Fain/Dora "friendship"...one gets the impression that Dora pushed Fain around whenever he got the chance and Fain never really forgave him for it.
Bruce Fowler hey Bruce this is Howard remember back in 89 or so you sold me what you called The Back To The Future model prototype slightly used. I wonder if you're still shaping.... great to see you writing hope you're riding too PEACE TO YOU AND YOUR
@Bruce Fowler agreed. Dora was a bully, a thief, and a sociopath. He was a selfish piece of festering Mexicali gang rape afterbirth who defiled surfing and the ocean. He died a shitty, agonizing death away from the blue Pacific on some inland piece of dirt and, as we speak, is watching in agony as Lucifer roasts his gonads over his personal barbecue. May Dora sear in the flames of Hell for an eternity of eternities!
