NICE! Our young cats tore up the sheetrock paper just like this but MORE~! :{ This is perfect for repairing it--THANK YOU! We didni't know WHAT to do! THANK YOU!!!!
Oh my- I did the exact same thing! That stuff tore my walls down to the paper! I was just about to mud over it when you found your video! Followed your steps and am as I type this post, waiting for the joint compound to dry so that I can prime and paint! Thank you so much for saving my kitchen walls and making me look like a DIY Diva at the same time!! Thanks again!!!
Peel and stick also did the same thing to my walls. I am going to try this tomorrow. I don't have much experience but you made this look easy for me. Thank you for making this video!
Ive mudded over entire walls like this many times , it does bubble up in places but then i slice the ripples or bubbles down the middle with a sharp razor knife so the moisture from the compound can get inside the dry area of the bubbles and when it drys it will suck the bubbles down .Then i sand it all them broom off the majrity of the drywall dust then go back over it with a second coat of mud thinned down with just a touch of water ,then i let it dry overnight or use a big fan for a couple hours then go over it with a 220 sanding screen then broom it down or use a shop vac with a brush attachment to get as much drywall dust as possible off the walls then i prime the drywall then paint it, The key is getting that first coat of mud mixed right on the first coat so it wets the paper just enough. my master bedroom was entirely covered with 2 layers of old wallpaper. i sprayed California knockdown texture over the walls. 15 years and it still looks perfect, could use some paint now to freshen it up
I agree it can be done. I’ve done large rooms as well…but I just don’t like chasing bubbles or wasting time. The Zissner takes about 15 minutes to dry and I’m skin coating (with no bubbles). Try this method once, you’ll like it.
I bought some Roman pro 999 RX 35 because when i called zisner they told me they dont make a product that is designed to seal torn drywall paper. I havnt used it yet. I cant remember a specific time i had to repair over torn paper but i know in 30 years of building and remodeling i have encountered it. I never searched around trying to find out how to fix it. Im sure i cleaned it up best i could. Primed it and put mud on it. Ive never had a call back on any job for my work failing but after being out of the loop for several years i started watching youtube videos and got scared i was doing something wrong. I figured technology has changed so maybe drywall and mud has too. I dont know if i just got taken or if i just got lucky for 30 years. I figure the rx35 is prob better than just a primer coat but like i said my old way never failed me. Good video. I wish i had seen it before i searched the world over for the rx35 they are so proud of money wise
David, you are absolutely right. Sealing the paper is not the way, just a way. Like you, I had fixed many a drywall repairs (torn paper) with just mud. It always worked and I always received a nice finished product... but it never failed that I would get that errant bubble of the paper and I’d have to fight it to get the job done. With sealing the paper I’m able to complete the job quicker, with less chance of bubble or stray paper. When I had my handyman business, and now as a builder I’ve got to have quick ways to get each job done so I can move to the next. Thanks for watching
I just tore my walls apart with peel and stick black splash I’m on the verge of tears I’m so upset and looking for a video and found yours thanks so much now to the store to get the supplies
Hello! Thank you for making this smart video. Curious… I’m installing a new vinyl baseboard with adhesive, replacing the old. Is it ok to place the new one over torn drywall, or do I need to go through the scrape, primer & mud steps before gluing baseboard on?
Are you supposed to prime after you finish sanding? I painted after sanding and my daughter put a poster (2 weeks after) with tape. When we took it off due to it was put on wrong wall the paint come off easily and this was over the drywall that I had fixed.
If you’ve already got mud down, just work with it. Putting this down note won’t seal the paper. It’s not the end of the world…just a learning experience
If I can see very small spots of mold/mildew, would you recommend using their "Mold Killing Primer" instead, or in addition (beforehand)? Or should that be treated differently?
Just sand like normal and deal with any bubbles that pop up. For small areas it’s no big deal…for larger areas it could be much harder without sealing first
@@Iamme-wv1fn is it the paper bubbling? If so, cut the bubbles out with a razor knife (removing the bubbles up paper only, seal with the primer I showed in the video, and then re-skim with mud
Hi can I use this method if I want to apply tile backsplash ? And if so would I do that over the white primer or do I still have to add some type of compound over it and sand before actual tile ? Hope this made sense
Great question. Remember every good build starts with a good foundation. The unsealed paper would most definitely reduce the “stickiness” of the material. Sealing it will lay down the fibers and give it a nice surface area to stick.
Not necessarily. However, there could be the chance of damage to the rigid pipes if the island were moved by accident. Obviously, it would take a serious move to cause damage.
Would this work on a whole wall? I peeled the paint of the entire wall on my garage from the previous owner painting it a horrible sky blue with tree decals on it, and most of the wall went down to the brown drywall paper. Would the shellac base and then drywall compound work for the entire wall? Or is there a better option? Thank you sir!
Yes, you can make large drywall repairs using this method. My friend @paulpeckdrywalltube has an awesome channel where he dives real deep into this subject. Check him out here… ru-vid.com
@@jazz901 if I don’t have any paper showing (areas that could bubble) I just lightly sand, make a simple in the hole using the handle end of my mud knife (so it recesses the hole and any nibs of drywall edges) and then mud. Pull it really tight on the first pass so there is only mud in the depression and let it dry. Once dry sand and if needed pull another pass of mud (typically if the mud shrinks)
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO Thank you. Yes, I did that bcuz I had watched Paul Peck. When dry, I did another pass of mud and then sanded again. Now I'm priming but the repair is taking the primer differently than the rest of the wall. Don't know what causes that. Afraid to paint bcuz the repaired areas are drying dull, not like the rest of the wall. I might have to skim coat entire wall?
@@jazz901 I’m assuming your repairs were done well and the walls seem flat and straight. Not trying to sound condescending here but I’ve seen some pretty bad repair jobs and the following tips will not help a bad repair. However based on your statements it seems like you took care of business… totally normal for the repair area to take the primer/topcoat differently. The drywall repair spot is a sponge…it will soak up the primer/paint. Use a good quality primer. You can even use the BIN primer I talked about. On big repair jobs I use a PVA primer. Even with the primer, the areas of repairs will look a little different. Primer is usually a flat and dull paint. By itself it is porous. However, the first topcoat of paint will seal the primer and then the second coat will match the surrounding areas (as long as you matched the paint) go ahead and plan on 2 coats of paint.
You want something that will seal the paper. I don’t like paint for this. Maybe an oil based paint, but sticking with some type of oil/shellac based primer to penetrate and quickly seal the paper
Hi, I removed cabinets and wallpaper in my century home and was basically left with brown walls. I can see the nail heads so Im not sure if its completely torn, or just different because it's old. Either way, if I seal the walls, can I salvage them? I'm worried Ill be over my head if I try to replace the drywall sheets. Thank you
I’m no drywall expert by any means... I’ve just repaired a bunch on my own but, the only issue I see is the nail heads are not “set” in the drywall. Potentially, you could set the nails, if it’s torn paper, seal it, mud all nail holes, sand and then skim the entire wall for a smooth finish. It’s going to be quite a bit of work but will look great in the end.
We have the “blistering” issue in our entry way from removing chair railing. Our front door reflects a lot of light and you can see every bit of it! Would this method prevent the clash of lighting or would we have to buy a different door?
Remove the blisters. Cut them out, treat area with a primer like in the video, and skim with drywall. To help in a highly visible/highlighted area you need to skim a wider area than what was originally damaged. With a proper drywall repair of the area you shouldn’t be able to see repairs. I have skimmed entire walls to eliminate imperfections
2 options… 1. Customer is paying so do what they are saying Or 2. Don’t do the job because no matter what they are telling you to do, it is your finished product and bad work is a reflection on you.
Wow you saved my bathroom wall with the shellac primer tip, I removed a builder grade mirror and was about to mud the area, now I know. Thanks for sharing!
Agreed. Zinsser RED Label Shellac is the GO-TO product for this and a perfect primer for all cabinets and wood. You should let people know that it is not water based-Denatured alcohol is it's solvent. (not isopropyl or rubbing alcohol). I was on a job once, where another professional painter threw Red Label down a client's kitchen sink, right through the disposal. ( I would never put any paints down a sink. Period) Then she ran water through it. By the time I figured out what she had done, yelling "IT IS NOT WATER BASED!" I threw an entire gallon of Denatured alcohol down the sink to chase it. Fortunately, disaster was avoided...but in the "long term" I honestly do not know how it turned out.
If you don't have specialty primer, wood glue works well too. Thinly spread the wood glue over the brown paper, let it dry and cure, rough it up a bit, then you can mud and paint as usual. If you're doing a small repair, people are way more likely to have wood glue on hand than specialty primer. As a complete novice trying to repair the wall damage from a really terrible "professional" vanity installation, I had like 15 square inches of damaged brown paper, and this worked a treat, no bubbling at all.
I got this Rx pro 999 by Roman. It’s for sealing the paper. If I already spread some Titebond on it, I can go on top of that with the Roman pro 999 before quick setting mud right ? Thanks. Great video btw
Great video, gets to the point. Before I saw this, I mudded over torn off wallpaper friday, came to work monday and no blisters, how long before it blisters? Am lucky? Safe to paint you think?
I have an entire drywall panel that needs repair. The previous owners removed wallpaper from a panel of drywall that had not been primed and took all the drywall paper off too. I cannot afford to have the panel replaced, unfortunately. Is it possible to scrape and sand what's left then apply the Zinsser Primer to it? I realize replacing the panel would be the best but that's just not an option. Any advice is appreciated.
Bullseye is water based. Make sure your wall doesn't have residue glue from wallpaper. Must use oil based primer, not 1-2-3. Water based will activate glue.
I just removed a bathroom mirror that ripped the dry wall bc it was a glued on mirror. Well... I didn’t know to seal the area first and just put mud right on the paper. Should I try removing the mud and redo it?
Not necessarily. I’ve done plenty without doing this trick...before I knew it. The problem is the paper (brown paper) likes to bubble. And the bubble shows as you start sanding to finish. So, if you sand and see the paper starting to bubble you may want to try sanding down to the repair and sealing. Not the end of the world, just frustrating
Thanks for the question! I just removed wallpaper border and I've torn some of the drywall in the process. Of course, like you, I mudded over the tears. Just did this last night so I'll see if I run into problems while sanding. If I do, I'll try Tony Collum's advice. Thanks again!!
Hello and thank you for the video. I had to take up my floor and bottom tiles that line the wall and the floor and in doing so the paper came completely off exposing the actual chalk. Will ZIn bin work . Ive been told I can just primer over the chalk . 1) Do I need to do both. 2) Can I just use a primer, what kind. I don't really trust what Ive been told because I cant see how anything will hold onto chalk. But, in seeing your vid. I believe you may have an answer. Really stuck. Anyone?
With exposed drywall, remove any loose material. Priming the exposed chalk (the actual drywall) don’t really matter. Depending on the size of the area, you can use 20 minute, 45 minute, or 90 minute mud to fill the area back to smooth. If it is a large area you may need to consider cutting out the damaged area and making a patch repair (with a new piece of drywall)
I’ve never done it, but as long as it’s stable I don’t see why you couldn’t. I wouldn’t use thin set though. I like mastic in this situation as it’s a glue. Just make sure the weight of the tile and the mastic can’t cause the paper to peel.
I don’t recommend using a water based product. The reason for sealing prior to using mud is because the water in the mud causes bubbles in the paper which rises through the mud and causes issues when sanding. I would imagine the water in the latex primer would do the same thing.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO thank you!! i just patched some holes in a wall that were pretty deep (from curtain rods). if i already filled them, would you recommend using that BINZ primer (for extra protection) over it too or just continue to sand and paint?
Don’t waste your money. Just sand and paint. It’s possible that you get some fuzzies or a bubble, but I don’t think the BIN would help you (at this point). Just remember next time to seal the paper before adding mud to it.
Yea, the Gardz product (water based) is supposed be great at fixing these problem areas as well. I chose to use the BIN because I had it on hand and does the exact same thing (plus my local big box store doesn’t have Gardz on the shelf). Good luck on your project and let me know how it works.
Gardz is more of a treatment coating for problem areas...where BIN is a “primer”. BIN doesn’t replace Gardz, but like you, Gardz isn’t available in my area so I used something I knew would seal the paper and keep it from bubbling.
I think I have a big problem in my kitchen 🤦🏽♀️🤣🤔 I took down my glass tile. Whoever the previous homeowner had install the backsplash, used double sided big square tape and cement or grout I guess🤷🏽♀️. Most of the sticky is still left on the wall and some is torn off like what you showed. 🤯😨😰 I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO!
You could try using Goo Off on the sticky residue and see if it comes off...in my experience though, if I’m going to spend more time and energy trying to prep or repair (already damaged) Sheetrock I just find it easier to cut out the damaged area and replace with new. Either way there is work involved which can be frustrating.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO thank you! It’s a pretty big small space to for me to repair and it’s not in the budget. Would anything bad happen under peel and stick backsplash paper
@@TheDria20 I would try and remove any foreign objects like grout, excess glue, etc. (and if it’s in the budget Dona skim coat of drywall mud and prime to seal)...paper is thin and any imperfections on the base (drywall) will telegraph through the paper...meaning you will be able to see them and in some instances they will be highlighted by shadows and light. If you were putting a tile or thicker material over the area I wouldn’t worry as much, but paper (wallpaper) is telling.
Great question. after sanding the mud just prime the drywall repair and paint. You can use a primer, or an extra coat of the final top coat you are using, or you can use a PVA primer (what I use for larger drywall repairs and skim coats). As long as you seal the mud you will be fine
Tore off old wallpaper, damaged the drywall with scoring (and the wallpaper being adhered to plaster & straight in drywall) I painted over with oil based kilz. Can I now seal it again using shellac & thin set with tons of sanding to smooth it out and finally use Eco-Prim grip before applying tile? Seems like overkill. Completely confused what to do now.
Usually the bubble will go away once the primer is dry. If you have to remove paper because of bubbling try and apply the primer lightly the next time. A “dry brush” application of the primer will seal without adding too much liquid which cause bubbling
my man! nice and quick explanation got tired of Listen to Everybody Crack jokes play ads show me how to use a putty knife and everything that a five year old should know. I'll subscribe I like I'll share and all that good stuff!
After the primer you are ready to skim with drywall mud. A lightweight drywall compound is easier to sand, but takes longer to dry. Or, you can go with a 20 minute or 90 minute mud…dries faster (because of the additives added) but is harder to sand. Not terribly hard but a noticeable difference from the lightweight mud
Thank you soooo much for this video. We're new home owners. Tired of the expensive repairs and now looking to DIY to save money. About to start this now.
