Great to see a new video on this build! Had been looking forward to seeing how a thread in barrel was head spaced. Informative and educational, Thanks!
Do you happen to know of anyone selling barrel blocks that'll fit the AK barrels in there? I'm fixin to do an M64 build and the barrel torquing has been giving me waking nightmares.
my name is kashif i am 22year old i collected orignle parts of a milled veriant ak 47 i assamble it when i test fired every bullet case stucks into chambers i did a mistake in head spacing i search on youtube and i find your videos i watched your videos then i release i remove bolt and did some welding on it and the bolt reshaped for best headspacing know my ak47 runs smoothly and perfactly thank
I'm going to say yes, but that may be incorrect. I've decided to take the barreled receiver to work and place the barrel in a three jaw chuck and tighten it with good force. Then mark a timing mark into the barrel and receiver. If the head space is then (most likely) tight again, I will remove and lap once again. then screw the barrel back to it's torqued timing mark. I will explain this in the next video.
@@Mel64d I mean if the rear sight block was tight enough when pressed and pinned to the barrel I imagine it would serve that purpose (sort of) of holding the barrel to the receiver. But then again another milled-type AK like the Galil has its barrel held onto the receiver through torque alone.
@@athausanddollahs1209 I took the barreled receiver to work and put it in the three jaw chuck. Could not tighten it anymore, it just starts to turn in the jaws. Placed it in the huge shop vise and tried, same thing. So I’m guessing it’s good to go. The galils have flats on their sides to aid in tightening. They call for (I believe) 150 foot pounds of torque. I’m guessing that’s because there’s nothing else helping to keep it in place. I don’t know for sure, just have to guess. This is my first type 3 style ak. So maybe the rear sight being pressed in between the ears of the receiver and pinned, that keeps the barrel from unscrewing???
I'm really glad you said that about CNC machining. A lot of people that don't understand machining wanna argue against that point and don't understand how wrong they are
If the parts are matching numbers (not forced matched) and look used, then I would not lap them.....but I would check their contact with a sharpie. If one or both parts are obviously new, then lapping should be done in my opinion.
Hey Mel if a assembled one is tight on a go gauge and won’t close but does on a live round how should you lap it if that would be the best option? My others are like what you said about “snapping” into lock up. Thanks man and love the videos as always 🍻
If it will close on live rounds then shoot it if you're comfortable doing so. Sometimes said firearm will be "ammo specific" meaning brand 'x' works flawlessly but brand 'z' has issues because of a tight head space. The tight head space will correct itself over time with thousands of rounds being fired.....but that may take for ever, or a possible (maybe not at all) chance of an out of battery detonation. If you wanted to lap the lugs then there are a few ways to go about it. All and none are correct depending on who you ask. I have taken a spent (fired) shell and cut it in half. Used a spring that was just big enough to fit inside the shell. Placed the spring shell combo into the chamber and then lapped the lugs. You just need something that helps apply pressure to the bolt lugs against the receiver/trunnion lugs. You might be able to use thin cardboard (just a thought, never tried it) like from a Kleenex box or 12 pack of soda to place in between the chamber face and the bolts face to give it a cushion. The best but most pain is to just pull the barrel and lap. Edit to add: I forgot to mention you’ll need to use the stripped bolt with your carrier when lapping with the barrel in place. By hand slide the bolt and carrier back and forth trying to go into battery multiple times until the bolt will go into battery. Using the split case and spring or cardboard method that is.
Awesome man really appreciate it. I’ve been keeping a close eye on the lug wear and all seems ok. And have never had a problem with live rounds being only about a 600-800 total. Thanks for the ideas too! Knew you would know some great tips🍻
Yes you could, just don’t tell anyone or make a RU-vid video about it because you’re gonna get hammered with negative comments....lol I took the barreled receiver to work and clamped it into a three jaw chuck. Could not get it to turn (tighten) anymore. Just spun, so I’m guessing it’s tight?? How tight?? Honestly don’t know but the rear sight block should (technically) hold it in place. Guessing the galils use the flats to torque the barrels to 150 foot pounds to keep it from unscrewing seeing as there’s no rear sight block to aid in keeping the barrel from unscrewing. ????
Those kits AoA had came with brand new bolts and carriers. A few people including myself were skeptical and caught on to this. I'm assuming they (Poland) kept the head spaced barreled receivers and BCGs so they could reuse them and sell the kits with NOS reserialized parts.
