Toyota 22RE AFM Air Flow Meter disassembly (door binding repair) idle stumble revving acceleration 

Thanks!

Yeah.. it was interesting to crack it open for cleaning. I was expecting a lot more under that plate actually :)

Yeah, if you smack the AFM and it clear up, that is usually the door binding (like shown in the video). You can reseal the plastic door using either Ultra Black RTV or Ultra Grey. Those are the ones I would select.

@@ray5961 are there any mods that allow for the door to be screwed in instead that involve using a weatherproofing rubber gasket or similar? Not that I have removed mine yet, I have a spare filter / airbox housing + AFM unit pulled from a good working vehicle (or so I was told) with the afm electrical cover already ripped off.. I do have raw material of either aluminum, stainless or good old steel, as well as a lathe and a milling machine and a sandblasting & powder coating setup, so I can remake a facsimile cover if needed

@@asakayosapro Most people just slice through the silicone gasket with a razor blade and then leave the remains on there. This allows you to pop it back on or off when needed, but the residual gasket still seals for the most part.

It's possible you got the coil wet and it was shorting out and/or some water into the distributor cap. I'd remove the distributor cap and blow it out with compressed air or clean it out - same for the air gap in there on the rotor. If you got water around the coil area up on the left fender well, blow that out with compressed air also and make sure it's totally dry. If it's wet, the coil can short out down to the frame and then the motor won't wanna rev out. Unless you were fording deep water and it was clear up to your head lights or something, then I wouldn't worry too much about water in the oil or anything. If there is any water in the oil, it will typically manifest itself on the dipstick or under the oil cap as a milkshake kinda foam. Sounds to me like water shorted out some of the ignition system... let her dry out for a few days or go through w/ compressed air and help dry everything out, then see. Since the motor runs hot, it will dry out on its own, but if you get water over by the coil or up inside the cap, that will take longer. My guess would be wet coil or maybe some water splashed up and get into the distributor cap a bit.

It could yes. If the door were stuck open, it could potentially create a hard starting condition and confuse the ECU as to what is going on basically.

If you turn the screw all the way in (clockwise) the idle should go down. Counter clock wise (out), idle should go up. If there isn't much change when going through the full range of adjustment, it could be the O-ring is leaking air. Try removing the adjustment screw completely and hold your thumb over the hole, then put the screw all the way back in and put your thumb over the hole. See if there is any difference then. If not, check your rubber elbow for cracks, because it's common for those to age and start falling apart and there can be hidden cracks under there near where the radiator hose is. Also, make sure the lower hose for the IAC valve is warming up (and make sure the upper feed hose also is warm). The IAC valve raises the idle when cold, but it needs coolant flowing around it to turn off; if the coolant is very low in the motor and/or there is a blockage in the cooling system, those two little feed hoses may not be feeding coolant to the IAC (idle air control valve) and that will cause high idle also. Check to see if those hoses are hot when the motor is warmed up. Stuck door on the AFM will also do it, as outlined in this video.

@@ray5961 thank you for taking your time to answer I was going the wrong way with the idle screw

@@russellwilkey390 You're most welcome. I've turned it the wrong way myself and ended up off in the weeds of nothing works also :) Glad to hear it was an easy fix! Do you have the LCE adjuster? That's pretty nice to have.

Black/red is the hot wire (+12V) for all 4 injectors. The injectors fire in pairs (1/3, then 2/4) the White/red wire controls firing injectors 1/3 via the ECU and the solid white controls 2/4.

@@ray5961 some one cut the harness from the injector side so i have aftermarket connectors which is black and red so red goes with ?and black goes wit?

@@neilbaris7251 Red should be +12V and black should be ground (although on the 22RE they use different colors). You can use a volt meter to check for +12V DC on the Toyota harness, which should be the black/red (stripe) wire as outlined above. If you have injectors with some cut off connector that just has a red wire and also a black wire, then the red wire side is gonna be +12V and the black is gonna be what would run to the ECU wires on the Toyota harness (I believe those are white and white/red). Do you have any testing equipment? Also, you can just test the injectors directly to the car battery (black to black, red to red) and you should hear them click on/off. I use this tester here for flow testing my injectors to make sure they work www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-EM276-Fuel-Injector-Tester/dp/B0126MEK3C/ - let me know if you have any other questions.

That would probably indicate a broken coil spring up top under the lid yes.

@@ray5961 Thankyou Ray, is the spring replaceable, as the complete unit for an 80 series L/C are only available from china and cost about $800 - $1000 Australian. Thanks for your site, I have got more from you than other land cruiser sites . Cheers

@@waynepinnegar7778 Thanks! Check Napa Auto also.. I bought my AFM from them when I first got my truck. They might have something that works for the Land Cruiser.

@@ray5961 thanks Ray, according to a few people down here, the AFM for the Camry V6 is the same, any comments in this regard? Cheers

@@waynepinnegar7778 Knowing Toyota, that's quite possible, but I have no specific information on that either way.

Technically speaking, that is correct. However, these days, most people take MAF to mean the more modern hot wire design found in OBD2 systems, while the Toyota 22RE uses a volume metric based setup. In the TCCS manual, Toyota always refers to this specific vane style as "Air Flow Meter", so I try to adhere to their original nomenclature in the videos also. But yeah, AFM, MAF... same basic idea. Great run down here as well: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

If there is binding any where along the path of the door, it will negatively affect engine operation. However, as far as starting goes, as long as it's not binding in the initial part of the movement, then that shouldn't have any major impact when it comes to cranking over.

It cranking over and has spark and fuel but no start

@@joshcross5761 Could be your circuit opening relay is shot. I have some videos on that. Try this: go into the diag box, jumper Fp to B+ using a bent paper clip (turn ignition to ON and see if you hear your fuel pump running)... try starting and see if it fires right up.

lol yes it is very dangerous haha :)