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Yup, $200 is about the normal price these days. Prices have gone up for everything, so maintenance costs a lot more. Just an oil change can be $120 or even more. You're welcome and thanks for the comment and watching!
Bro you are the man, so many videos on if you flip the belt sideways, give 1" of play, etc. My AC compressor was grinding and I couldn't figure out why... Bam improper belt tension gotta use the krikit got to 160 lbs and all noises stop. Nowhere in the toyota service manual does it say turn the belt sideways and your good to go. Thanks bro
Thanks! Have done it on my rav 4 with no issue but wanted to make sure it would be easy on the wife’s car. This video was certainly clear and well reported.
Thank you for your detailed video. I just finished changing the belt with the help of this video. Thank you for including information such as socket size and torque level. I do want to add that it's optional to jack up the car and take off the splash guards from the bottom. You can easily, and I repeat easily, do this job with the splash guards on. The only exception would be if you have very thick arms like a body builder or a very over weight person, then you might want to take off the splash guards. I'm skinny and I have skinny arms. I did find the need for an extender for the lower socket specially when tightening it back up. I used a metal pipe to help loosening the upper and lower bolts. Please remember to use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts back. This job was actually kind of fun, in part because of the good design that Toyota made, and also because of this video that Clever Fix uploaded for us. Please give this guy a thumbs up.
Thanks for sharing your experience and for your kind words! You summed it up perfectly. I know some people with big arms that would have trouble with it, so there's the option to do it either way. The design is definitely good, I was very happy with how easy it was to replace!
Do you know where I can find the Manual adjustment bracket? The metal part of mine broke and I am unable to find it. If you know the part number I'll appreciate it.
Thanks a lot. I was always concerned to put to much tension on the belt. With the tool, no more concern. THANKS! Is there another job on a car that need this tool? Which one i should buy Krikit I or Krikit II? Can i use this tool on any other job except a car and what range is the most usefull?
The Krickits can be used to tension most belts, even if they're on an air compressor for example.. as long as the belt is not too wide. The Krickit II is better for automotive use in my opinion, it goes from 100 to 320lbs, which is a very big range, and it's easier to read at 120lbs. Other than tensioning belts, there aren't any other uses for this tool on the Corolla. I bought it just for this belt. Some people use it for motorcycles belts, and even bicycle belts: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h8NSiyj8hwg.html that's the Krickit I since the tension is lower. Automotive belts are usually higher tension.. so it really depends what tension range is needed when deciding which one to get. Hope that helps.
That's the right front wheel actually. It's not possible to check the tension at the recommended point without removing the cover. I found checking the tension was needed for my car, because it was way too low even after setting the tension bolt exactly where it was from the factory. If you're skipping the tension check then removing the cover is not really needed, everything can be done from the top, it's just harder and more care needed to make sure the belt is on in the grooves properly.
i snapped my bottom bolt in my alternator trying to loosen it. also after loosening my top bolt and tensioner belt my alternator still isn’t moving so i can change my belt
I'm not sure the bolt can be measured accurately enough.. I prefer just marking the threads, but if measuring works for you that's great In my case I still needed to adjust the tension as I show later in the video with the gauge,.. so it's not guaranteed that putting it in the same place will result in the proper tension.
@@CleverFix so what if what you measured was right and it was the perfect tension? The tension seems a little too tight when you turned the bolt and measured it again with the tensioner. How's the car running with the tension at different position? Pls let me know because im in the process of installing my serpentine belt. But thanks for the video very detailed i subscribed
@@relaxingmusicrelaxingmusic5510 Ok I see your comment now. The bolt is marked so that it can be put back where it was temporarily, and the engine can be started and run for a few minutes to allow the belt to stretch out. Without marking it, The manual gives a tension range for a "new belt" so it would have to be tensioned to the new belt spec, run for 10 minutes, then again checked and tensioned to the used belt spec. The main point to remember is that the engine has to run minimum 5 minutes, but I let it run longer, because the belt stretches out, and only then the tension can be set. The tension is definitely not too tight in the video, it's actually at the minimum allowed.. and I prefer setting to minimum. Setting to maximum puts more pressure on the components. There will be NO difference in how the car runs! Setting too loose will wear out the belt faster, and too tight will wear out the bearings.
It's in the Chilton manual, and Toyota TIS: techinfo.toyota.com/ , also someone posted it on ToyotaNation: www.toyotanation.com/threads/belt-tension-specs.537594/ After the engine runs for 5+ minutes, the belt is considered "used" but I ran it for 15min to make sure it has time to stretch.
@1:37 do you know what that hook piece does that is right above the tensioner bolt? I ordered a high output alt for my subwoofers and that hook is no longer fitting over the bracket, it’s about a quarter inch away from it and I can’t find any answers about how important it is that it goes over the bracket.
@@painkillerO8 I ended up going with a way shorter belt and using some washers I believe, but it still isn’t right on that metal like the stock alt was. Did you get a regular alt or a high output?
@@painkillerO8 make sure you used all of the correct bolts in the correct spots. I’ve seen instances where people accidentally switched the tension bracket with the one from the motor mount bracket, and also switched those bolts that go onto the bracket.
The crankshaft pulley is connected to the crankshaft, so no, it will never spin freely, it only turns when the engine turns.. all the pistons have to move up and down at the same time as it turns. You may be thinking of the AC Compressor pulley, and then yes that could spin freely since the AC clutch is not engaged.
I can't find the manual free anywhere sorry. There's this site that has the same procedure: paulstravelpictures.com/2014-2018-Toyota-Corolla-Engine-Serpentine-Belt-Replacement-Guide/ Check with your local library as well to see if they can get you access to automotive repair manuals.
It doesn't squeak when it's too high. Only when it's too low. It's not good to be too high, it will wear out the bearings, and then the bearings will squeak, but it's a different sound. And belt squeak usually goes away when the car warms up. Bearing noise stays more constant.
They have different tension ranges, but both cover 120 to 160. Krickit II is harder to push down, because it has a higher range, Krickit I is much easier to "click" . However, Krickit I only goes to 160, and as you can see in the video, the needle is very close to being all the way down, so it's a bit more difficult to read the Krickit I compared to the II.. although both will do the job. I just used both to show they both work.
Yes it's necessary to tension the belt to the proper value. In my case the tension was quite a lot lower than it should be after driving for 15-20min with the new belt. If I didn't measure, I would be driving with a low tension, and the belt will wear out prematurely... it could take years for the problem to show up, or it could be fast depending on how low it is. If it's very very low, it will squeak under acceleration. In my opinion the cost of the tool is worth it, to make sure the new belt will last as long as possible. Also it can be used yearly to double check that the tension is still in the correct range.
That means it's not a 2ZR-FE, see the beginning of the video where I show how to identify the engine. LE ECO Models have 2ZR-FAE engines with the automatic tensioner, there are videos that show how to change it for those engines too.
That's the easiest way to reach the bottom and check the tension between the pulleys. Some people don't remove it because they don't check the tension, so you'll find videos that don't remove it. Also some people have a hard time reaching the bottom pulleys to put the belt on from the top, so I made the video in a way anybody can do it.
There's no set interval, just "inspect" is mentioned in the manual, and check for cracks/damage and replace if any is noticed. People report they last 60-100K miles until damage is noticed, but some have even gone to 150,000miles. If the tension is incorrect it could last less, I had 64,000miles.
@@CleverFix my 2010 corolla is at 170,000 miles lol. Have not change it yet. I will change with dealer this week cost $230 part and labor. That is before tax.
@@mike105172 There shouldn't be a BIG difference between the old and new belt size.. A small difference is normal.. I never measured the difference.. Best thing is just to be sure you got the correct part # on the belt itself.
Yes it's easier for sure,..I had to show how to check the tension though, which has to be checked on the bottom,.. And a video shot only from the top doesn't show everything as nice.
Make sure you know the definition for "new belt" and "used belt" . After 5 minutes of driving, the belt is a "used belt". As I said in the video, I drove the car 15 minutes before checking the tension, so that's why I am using the "used belt" range. Setting tension on a brand new, never spun belt to the "new belt" specification does not always give accurate results later on once the belt is stretched. So I prefer to check and set tension after 15 minutes using the "used belt" range.
@@CleverFix Oh yes, my 2014 corolla has a tensioner and if the spring is weak it will cause the belt to melt on the back side. Yours was loose, same thing.
@@theearthisntflatpleasestop9899 Yes, I think the tensioner design your has is better, because it adjusts over time. The screw method mine uses doesn't continually adjust, so I'll have to check it regularly from now on, so this doesn't happen again.
@@CleverFix Hey I hate to bother you again, but I'm trying to diagnose these two sounds from a 2014 corolla with 100k miles on it. The first video sounds like the timing chaine, and the second video is an electrical noise coming from the valve matic controller. Any tips would be appreciated. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8UpDlh9F5Nc.htmlsi=bPVb2xwoJOe-D6Uy ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KGSHBGGNhM4.htmlsi=3PlHFwhCjnltjCWc
