Toyota LandCruiser 40 60 80 70 76 78 79 105 Hilux Knuckle CV and Birfield Rebuild 

What DIY maintenance task do you want a video on?

Thanks a million mate, last night I watched twice, today I did both sides on a 60 and new callipers and rotors. Thanks to this demonstration I could confidently do the task and guide a mate through the other side at the same time.

Everything you did made complete sense. Thanks for explaining all, to include the after market lock nut/washer

Mate ur a legend so glad I found this informative guide. I need to do mine but have been putting it off due to nerves and considering taking it to the shop. But now I've seen this im gonna give it a crack. Cheers for the confidence boost mate. Subbed 🤘

Great video. Great to hear the couple of extra tips coming from experience.

Awesome mate. I have recommended this video a few times. Learnt heaps. You are legend amongst 80 series owners.

Thanks mate! learned a lot. Enough to giver a go on the old 60. Cheers from Canada

One of the best videos on this subject. Thank you.

This video is very well done .. When I'm out in the bush and if something stuffs up I'll be able to fix it myself ..!! Cheers

Excellent video mate. Thanks so much for posting up. I have learnt a lot.

Last year I did four of these on 80 series cruisers in outback NSW. Now have one in my garage that needs it (leaking inner seal) after a trip to Cape York. Still learnt a lot from your practical video. Thanks!

Great informative video. Easy to follow and understand. Thank you for posting.

Replacing my brake rotors on 80 series and this helped a lot (mines part time 4wd so had no clue what I was doing)

Thanks for very clear and concise instruction. I am about to do my HJ75.

Brilliant video mate. Has given me the confidence to do mine, thanks!

brilliant , exactly what i have been looking for , thanks mate

Best info video I've ever seen on the knuckle assembly!

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, it’s much appreciated! I will refer back to this when doing my 76 . Thanks again

Just watched your video, in order to help a mate change the swivel seals on his FJ45. A great video. A suggestion for helping align the felt, rubber and retaining plates is to make two studs that you can insert into the housing.I usually use long bolts of the correct thread, cut the head off, then cut a slot for a standard screwdriver. Install the studs loosely, one top, one bottom. Hang the rubber, felt and plates on the studs, add the bolts. Then wind out the studs and replace with the standard bolts. Cheers and thanks for the great video Greg

Very thorough instruction and some great hints and advice. Murphy dictates that the call to help the neighbour with the snake will only come at the most inopportune time. I could just hear your thoughts at that moment but I won't repeat them here.

nicely done sir., u made something so hard look so easy and fun to do. keep it up and stay safe mate

Have done this 3 or 4 times now. This is a really good video.

Отличное видео! Спасибо огромное! Особенно отмечу, с какой любовью автор крутит железки! Круто!

awesome vid mate, very thorough and in depth. subbed and liked!

Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this! Very helpful. Following from the usa. Need to rebuild my 61s knuckles, i will be following your video. I am one of the lucky few who is running a 12HT in the usa. Cheers!

Great Vid, A quick tip to make life a little easier. If you put your bearing races in the freezer overnight before you install they slightly contract from the cold and go in much easier without having to bash them, they are still tight but you can tap them in instead of bashing them in then they expand back with normal temperature, I still use a little cam bearing grease on the race so it's not dry when fitting them in.

Hello from California. This is a great video and you made something overwhelming look so easy and straightforward. I had mine done on my FJ62 by a professional, but will tackle it myself next time. Just curious about setting the preload, that seems a bit tricky.

outstanding! working on fj60. this video is informative.

3:05 praise the gods, a Toyota youtuber that doesn't like flogging out the sides of the hub!

very informative mate, well done !

Great video mate! 👌

Good one Cobber - keeping it real!

Absolute legend, thanks

Looks like the rubber mallet and brass drift will be my friends when doing this on an 1986 Land Cruiser.

Excellent tutorial mate!

great information, Thank you

This is great, thanks.

Will doing my ln106r hilux soon and this is very informative

Well detailed video 👍

Thanks mate. My 62 has a concerning audible knock front left under certain circumstances. Your tutorial equips me for the urgent task ahead...

Good on you mate

brilliant video man

Thanks!

Nice 🔥

G'day mate , awsome video thanks for the info

Nice video. Would love to see steering overhaul / maintenance vids

Thanks 🙏😊

Thanks mate

Brilliant! Thanks. Much appreciated. Learnt a lot of important tips. Well... here goes... :)

Thanks.. good video & explain .🔥❤️..

locating the felt and ring etc - put shortened skewer sticks through the holes to locate the assembly in position. Replace one by one with bolts

Great video! Thanks. Subbed.

Great video ! I have a leaking wiper seal on passenger side. Where is your work shop hahah . Thanks bud . Great video

THANK YOU😉👍️🎶

Exelente amigo 👍

Top video

bon travail merci

Hello from Russia! very useful video)

hi Major parts u missed 1/ axle/seal center line sets the total shim pack thickness eg top + bottom . Toyota dealers use this tool 2/ remove shims equally top and bottom to set preload drag on king pin bearing 3/ check drag with spring pull gauge ,,,,,,,,set drag to 6kg Toyota spec ------Aftermarket 1/ eccentric king pin bearings ,allows adjustment of caster and camber for wheel alignment

those races on the wheel bearing look nasty as. all darkened. Good vid.

Thanks mate good video

Thank you

Thankyou

Serpentine belt tensioner assembly and water pump and alternator would be good. All that gear sitting on the front.

Thanks for this video. Will be doing my swivel hubs soon and this will help me out a lot. What is that rtv blue product? Cheers

Great video mate 👍 Cheers

Nice efforts. Nice video. This is a Teaching video for many like me. Plz do add some links of every tool you used in this video. It would be highly helpful to find those online. Keep uploading. BIG THUMBS UP….. Warm Regards. -42:10 “separater” plz add online link for this particularly.

Great video made it look so easy. Where do u get the streaming arm tool

Hi from Sout Africa!! Thanks for a great video!!..my cruiser 79 pickup 4.5 is on tressels for recon both front cv's my question is..can i remove both cv axles at once?..will i be able to push the shafts back into the diff?..

Awesome video mate thanks a lot, youve done well, videos circulating through the cruiser groups now! How much grease did you buy?

Thanks from all russian speak LC owners

HI, thanks for the video. The torques you mention are the same also for 70 series or are there any differencies? Another thing, a pre-load is to be adjusted only by a torque or there is something more to do? Thanks.

Could you do a power steering pump removal re build and install? On the 80

What style/brand puller did you use for the steering arm? Part # for the aftermarket rotor/spindle bearing/seal upgrade? Great job. California FJ60

Great video thanks. What can I use instead of a brass drift ? Can’t get my hands on a brass drift or a hammer.

How did you get the cv-joint off the axle? I have seen several videos showing to put the shaft in a vice and banging on the cv inner race with a hammer & punch. I have replaced many cv-joints on passenger cars, & 4x4 SUV & pick-ups and managed to remove the cv-joint using the same method. However, on 4x4 such as the Land Cruisers, Nissan Patrol and Land Rovers with solid axle housings it is almost impossible to get them off without damaging something. Some of the ones I did manage to get out had the c-clip mangled by the splines when forced through the cv-joint. Of all of the on-line videos, some of which are great videos showing the complete repair / rebuild of the cv-joint (cleaning, replacing & lubing them) but not one of them showed how they remover the cv from the axle shaft. I made up a tool consisting of a pipe long enough, approximately 4 inches longer than the axle shaft & large enough to fit over the axle shaft so that the pipe fits against the inner race of the cv-joint. By inserting the axle shaft and cv-joint into the pipe vertically and lifting the shaft & cv and slamming it onto the pipe usually does the trick on the SUV, Pick-ups and passenger cars (External type shafts & axles). However, 50% of the time on the solid axle type housings even with the pipe jig I just cannot get them apart. What I did notice on L Cruiser cv-joint the outer end of the cv-joint where the shaft splines onto the cv-joint the bore was slightly chamfered so as to collapse the c-clip when the shaft is inserted into the cv-joint. However, the inner bore was not chamfered which prevented the c-clip from collapsing when trying to remove the shaft. I am assuming that the chamfered side should be on the inner side so as to collapse the c-clip and easy to remove the axle. I have seen one video of the complete rebuild and replacing the cv-joint on a solid axel type where the mechanic mentioned he had to remove the inner c-clip prior to removing the axel however, he didn’t show that procedure in the video. I cannot see any way how he could get access to that c-clip with the shaft installed into the cv-joint. If anyone has any suggestions or comments on this please comment.

Very informative video. Question. Why do you tightened the preload bearing so much ? Should be finger tight or im wrong? Thanks

What size is the insertion tool you used on the inner axel seal? Do you know of it's the same on the 60? I'm trying to get my ducks in row for my first bearing/knuckle rebuild on my cruiser.

Hi mate, been a while since you posted this but was just curious, where did you pick up the limited slip double lip seal and fancy locknut and tab washer? Been dying to try and figure it out as I can’t find them for the life of me. Cheers.

Hi, good video. Can you provide us with detail of the replacement oil seal please?

Hey Cobber, I believe the after market front hub locking nut kit doesn't work on fulltime fwd , was hoping to use on 105, use the 3 x finer for rear. Using the "spindle greaser" conflicts with using moly grease to the extent you use it ? any thoughts ? and noticed you mixed moly and bearing grease when spindle bearing was on spindle hub with moly !

Hello from San Diego, my name is Adan, thanks for your help!!, I have a 1982 Toyota pickup when I turn either left or right I have a weird pop , any ideas what I’m dealing with?

After you finished the preload you didnt show yourself backing off the nut prior to torquing to 25nm. Could be a trap for some watching.

I have a 94’ HZJ75 troopy, will it be similar to this? Both mine need replacing and am contemplating tackling the challenge! Awesome video

following your video on a 85 FJ62, by the way what is the blue stuff your using, can't quiet make out what you said.

Can you show the place for the top up nut 76 series

What size brass drift would you recommend for maintenance work on the Cruiser? Cheers mate

How often would you consider doing the swivel hub rebuild ? Even if hubs get a bit greasy and messy 80k ?

Just wondering what the cir clip behind the free wheeling hub actually does? Does it stop the axle moving ?

33:37 Where do you buy the "double-lip" seal and what are they called in ebay/amazon etc? It seems I can't find one for my 75 series. Thank you.

Have you got any further info on where i can get the double lip seal and the bearing lock washer that doesn't require locking tab???

Great Video mate very educational. question when you tight the spindle nut for preload some people light tight it , some medium tight it, but your was extreme tight is what's the difference

Hi I notice in this video you state the final wheel bearing pre load was 25nm but in another video of yours doing a similar job you say its 25ftlb can you clarify which it is please ?

Great video, whats the best kit / place to get parts and tools for this job? I'm in the USA though so it may not apply to me. Thanks again.

I'm interested in the spindle nut and locking mechanism with Allen keys.. I can't seem to find anything online, could you perhaps point me in the right direction? Cheers 🍻

Donde se puede ver en español lo felicito por su explicación paso a paso

Howdy mate, I have a 2006 LC 105 GX 1HZ, same running gear as that beast you're fiddling with... Went to buy new tyres today but saw that the front left wheel had some play and thus I needed to remove, check and adjust the bearings (pretty new, only about 20k km). Pulled off the wheel, calliper and hub to find the wheel-bearing grease in the hub was black, but not runny. As if it's been contaminated by the airfield / cv grease? I haven't stripped any further but the smell of this grease is akin to the LMM Castrol CV grease I used in the ball-joint and cv, so I'm thinking there's just been some cross-contamination here? Would overfilling the ball-joint / airfield / cv with LMM grease (probably what I did 'cause I like over-engineering cause it to push outwards along the shaft and into the wheel-bearing hub and mix with the thicker Lithium WB grease? From the comments above it doesn't seem like this is a train smash? What else do you think I could check? Will adjust the wheel bearings properly this time!

Not sure if it’s already been asked, but, do you think the freewheeling hubs ( part time) actually improve the 80 series? Fuel , handling etc ? Keen to hear your thoughts please!

So i totally forgot the part where i should of put my stone gaurd back on.. any harm of leaving it off without a spacer plate ?

With the brake backing plates, they stop water & oil road grime in wet road conditions splashing onto the rotor and reducing the braking ability of the vehicle, I reckon they are a good thing. Those RCV CV's are the bee's knees, especially their 300M range.