Thanks for this guide, you managed to cram a lot of useful info in a small amount of time (the bits about how to check the pre cat are particularly nice to know). Do you know if there are specific issues to look for in pre-2003 models? I've heard they have reliability issues that post facelift did not have. About the production quality I have a slight critic to make: the music was really loud at first, and globally the sound quality is not very nice to the ears, sometimes it saturates. Thanks again for all the infos!
Precats, and the SMT transmission is relatively weak, thats pretty muc hthe only weaknesses i found so far in mine. other than that the annoying thing is the radio antenna. but thats probably just me whos bugged about it.
I owned a 2003 Spyder from about 20,000 miles to 125,000 miles - it was a great car and I would probably still own it if not for one thing - it had the sequential manual transmission option and once that developed a fault that could not be resolved after spending over $2,000 at a Toyota dealership it became obvious that no economic repair was possible. I actually quite liked the SMT, but the first warning was when it developed a fault at about 30,000 miles - that was fixed under warranty. The problem is that the SMT was unique - this was the only car that Toyota used it on and many Toyota service shops had never even seen one - nobody knew how to diagnose faults in them so the dealerships just swapped parts until the fault went away - not too much of a problem when the vehicle is still under warranty, but it gets very expensive very quickly when it isn't. When the second set of problems started at 125,000 miles the dealership was at least honest enough to admit that, short of replacing all of the sensors on the transmission, and the transmission control computer and the engine control computer they didn't know how to fix the problem and they weren't prepared to guarantee that even that would definitely fix it. There are very few people with the knowledge and skills needed to attempt do-it-yourself repairs on a Toyota SMT - if you happen to be one of them then you will already know what is involved - if you aren't, then don't even think of trying. So, my advice would be to avoid the SMT models like the plague, watch out for pre-cat problems (I never had any) and don't be too afraid of vehicles with over 100k miles on them since (apart from the SMT) these cars are very sound.
I wiped the inside of the exhaust and my finger was powder coated black. Didn't care, wanted the MR2, gave him the check. LOL. It's my problem now but I do indeed intend to swap out the 2ZZ + 6MT when possible. Can't afford a Lotus and this thing is even more of a desirable classic IMO.
Great video. These are great cars that people just weren't really smart enough to appreciate for what they really were. Too bad they didn't last longer, production-wise.
Viewing one tomorrow. Interesting on how to check the pre cats. I've got a face lift to look at later in the week which is the one I'm more interested in. Good vid.
This vid is fairly old so not sure you'll get or see my question... but I love the sound of your mr2. I just got a 2001 all stock base. No mods at all. Would you care to share any specifics how you got yours to sound so good. Would appreciate it. And thanks for making video.
I rarely drive my MR2, probably once or twice a week ( year 2000, and same color as yours) sometimes, it wont get start if i hvnt driven it for a week (hv to jump start it) , even some times, it wont restart after a short drive (after few days not starting it). Some say I hv to drive it more often or it could be because of the starter (which Im so zero- knowledge of). TQVM in advance. Btw, my mileage is already pass 204,000 km (126,760miles), & it has already been converted to manual transm. when i bought it
I have heard that you should avoid the (quasi-automatic) sequential manual transmission. I guess it is more likely to have problems. Would you agree with that?
Good video! I'm looking ta a 2001 Spyder for purchase. The dealership mechanic inspected the pre-cats and said they're good. I've also heard you can do another visual inspection by placing a black cloth or t-shirt underneath the exhaust pipe end and revving the engine a few times and check for white particles that have settled on the black cloth. Is this a good test? Can you see the white particles inside the exhaust when it's sitting?
TQ for the concised info. I bought a 2nd-hand MRS (yr 2000) with the same color of yours. Just wanna know, is it common for MRS to fail to start up if we dont drive it for a week or so? And,I've had few experiences where sometimes when i make a quick stop after a long drive at the highway, the car just suddenly fail to start. Luckily i always keep a set of jumper in the cabin to jump start. TQ in advance
I feel sorry for my cousins across the pond here in uk I bought mine last year with 103k miles full service history nothing wrong with it for £1500 the market in America is crazy overpriced
The early gen mk2 was really prone to this but the mr2 spyder is definitely more balanced in the corners. It can still bite you if you're not careful since it does have that rear weight bias but overall it doesn't deal with snap oversteer much.
Dimly Lit Garage I just wish the Spyder looked so.... 90's. The MR2 looks like a space ship, the Spyder just looks like a car you'd find on Tween magazine.
I purchased an 2001 from Serra Group in Traverse City, MI. It had 59K on clock, and was snowing when I tested. I was so happy I paid full price. Put con on trailer to its winter storage point and within 5 miles off trailer check engine light comes on.....GRRRRR. Pulled O2 sensors and cat1 was empty, cat2 was intact/semi-clogged. Burns oil at rate of ~1qt per 500 miles.....GRRRR! Contacted dealer.....informed car sold as-is not Serra Group issue.....GRRRRR! Pulled service history.....Random misfires, previous owner asking "what is wrong with my car?" at Serra Group service center. Dealer still claimed "sold as is" and did not know of condition. DO NOT BUY from Serra Group. P
Thanks for the comment and I also watch your videos.... You guys do some good stuff! Have 2zzGE with 6spd from Celica GTS dropout. .....from MI...crusty lump, but it will live and thrive again.....doing bolts zero full rebuild.....bores a little egged....but still going to build! Watch for future posting as I hope to give back to the RU-vid community. NOTE: It will be a slow process. P
@@dimlylitgarage9785 Hello again Dimly Lit Garage, Finished 2ZZ-GE install with C60 and added TRD Torsen type LSD. Finished at end of Michigan season, but still got to drive 600 miles! Finally got the original 1ZZ-FE to my work for tear-down and it was totally sooted. Head was BLACK from too much oil. Believe I also have the ring issue as pistons are rocking in the bore......, but just pre-cat issue may have added to problems, as they where "gone" and "half gone" on banks 1 and 2 respectively. Will be tearing this engine down within the next few weeks to bore gauge and determine if I can salvage the block. Keep posting! Mr. P
You missed a couple of key things to look out for. The rear subframe can be susceptible to corrosion and is expensive to replace. Also, the brake calipers (rear I think) can seize up. Both of these happened to mine when I had it. Still a great car though and I'd love to get another one.
@Nicholas Penn Come to think of it, where this was filmed in the States, the weather could be good all year, which would explain why the subframe and calipers aren't mentioned. Here in the UK, the weather isn't great and salt gets sprayed on the road during winter, which doesn't exactly help with corrosion. Nevertheless, get down and look underneath the subframe, especially by the exhaust, poking with your finger to see if it has rusted through. They tend to rust from the inside out. Regarding the brakes, check if it pulls to one side and inspect the discs for corrosion that the pads don't scrape off (although you won't see the inner surface). Overall though, these are pretty reliable cars. I have now bought another one!
Thanks for leaving this comment, I was about to get an mk1 but they seem to have disappeared :( although I feel like the spyder is calling me haha. Really helpful to know what to look for though.
@@DeezNootz42069 If you're interested in a further update, one of my rear brakes did seize up a few months back. There was no pulling to the side, but the first signs were an excessive amount of brake dust on the wheel in question, followed by a juddering after a few miles of driving, and then obvious resistance when it got worse. All sorted now though. Definitely get one if you value fun handling at legal speeds over outright power, as I do.
it amazes me how much they go for in the US etc. just bought a very clean, 2004 with 62k miles from the auctions today for £1500. granted that was auction price but the same car would only be around £2500+ as a private sale. only bought it as a winter beater to keep my other car (FC3S) off the road in the bad weather but I've already grown attached to it so i may just keep it longer.
Lightweight sportscars are usually quite economical so they end up being bought for trophy wives in UK or as weekend toys and when the warrantee is up the second hand car market is flooded with them. Sports cars in UK are like bumble bees, when the sun shines and the flowers bloom, sports cars come out to play.
What about repair parts like gas tank etc. I've been looking but haven't seen anything makes it hard to be ok with buying one if cant get vehicle specific replacement parts..... looking to make a daily driver.
Great delivery of a video. Quick and to the point. Thank you for your efforts and the review and highlights to look for. it's refreshing to see someone being so professional
Thank you for a very informative video! At 2:38 when you suggest checking the pre-cats by pulling out the O2 sensors, can you explain what that means? If I pull out the 02 sensor wire will the pre cat honeycomb be visible? Thanks :)
Bought one for $3,000 and burns oil. Still the best $3,000 I've ever spent. An absolute blast. My 2010 Audi S5 is for sale. Also an astonishing car of course. I intend to use some of the money from that sale towards an engine swap in the MR2 and otherwise freshening it up.
I love MR2 Spyders. I currently have a 1993 Miata showing it’s age and would love to upgrade to the MR2-S. I love the look and the fact that it’s a Toyota. That’s great information about the engine issue, I did not know about. I was hopping it was as simple and reliable as a Corolla just in a different orientation and in a lighter car. Do you know if there is an alternative material replacement part for those ceramic pieces to assure a long life? Thanks for the informative video. Love how the round headlights show nicely on the black car and the hardtop is amazing. Also would like to know how much you got a hardtop for.
You say to parts market is sparse do you mean for mods or for repairs? Gonna be my daily driver if I get one.... I don't want to be stuck with a car I have scrounge and pay high prices for.
nope, in reference to pre 2:45 piston rings were poorly designed, which allowed oil to blow by, which then could dissolve or clog the pre-cats thus the change in the 03+ motors where they redesigned the piston rings. psi number you should look for are 194+ SMTs do have a clutch. its just automated like you said. no talk about the hard top, interesting?
Now it’s not so much that the precat failure causes the car to burn oil, but 2000-2002 models featured piston rings that were slightly oval in shape instead of a perfect circle so they will be more likely to burn oil on to the precats. This gets them white hot and that’s when parts will break off and wind up in the motor and it will normally burn astronomical amounts of oil at that point and normally take a rod bearing with it. 2003 onward MR2’s have revised pistons rings that allegedly fixed this issue.
Hmmm I wonder if these burn oil due to just the pre cat failure. Because the early model 1ZZ FE Corollas and Celicas burn oil due to clogged piston drain holes which cause bad oil rings. Of course as long as people change the oil and filter regularily it shouldn't happen. My 2000 Corolla with 225k still burns none.
Good video but the precats failing are a symptoms of an engine burning oil not the cause. Pre 2006 engines on the spyder had major oil burning issues due to piston design (they finally remedied it properly for the last of the mr2's in 2006/07). The oil residue coats the precats and starts to break them down which then ultimately leads to a blown up a engine. Removing the precats will remove the potential for grenading your engine but it won't solve the oil burning issue.
My engine and catalytic converter failed at 35000 miles and computer chip fried after 1.5 years. Got covered by warranty. Free. But...but...I did race it pushed it to the limit etc. Every day! So yes a good car. Not expensive to own.
Great vid Sir, thanks for the info. I've got nothing but old Toyotas on the driveway but looking for a sporty fun driver. Thanks 👊🏽🤙🏽Keep up the good work!
My car with the cat converter problem did 360k kilometers before the oil consumption became too much, not bad for a bad engine. I'm getting another engine and adding a turbo, what a great driving machine.
Thanks for great info. Thinking to buy one, but not many in my town, so probably heading a few hours away to bigger city with more inventory. Now I can ask seller specific questions before making a long trip to confirm if there's any point in my travelling. Thanks again!
Thank you!!! Great video. No one shows the trunk area. I am working with my son to get one. I am curious, what about the timing belt? Or does it have a chain? What is the expected replacement
Great video bud. Thank you. I've been waffling on various 15 year old sports cars to possibly get and was mainly looking at the Mk1 Audi TT (essentially a Golf MK4 with much more stylized body) as well the Chrysler/Mercedes Crossfire, but in being a long time Toyota fan / owner (I have an older Tacoma and brand new XB) I think I want a Spyder. I remember how much I liked them when they first came out (when you were 5 lol) and much like the Mk1 TT it is now somewhat of a classic at this point. We've had a VW Cabrio for the last 15 years and while that car made me a very qualified mechanic, it did so to the point that I never want to own a German car again. Same with the TT. It seems most owners of them spend much more time fixing them than driving. Toyota for the win. I might as well have three.
What if I find one without a precat problem, would any preventive maintenance be recommended to keep it that way? Were some precats just lemons or do they all fail eventually?
Only use AMSOIL!! You will notice the seat of the pants performance difference over Mobil 1 because AMSOIL is a true 100% synthetic. Saw the Mobile 1 on your shelf.. Easy mod!
Question: I just bought an MR2 and on the dash it has a soft top button... on or off. What is it supposed to do? I press and nothing happens. I put the top up and down manually. Just wondered what button is for... Thanks, Mark
I am in the market for a MR2 currently looking at one that is 1500 miles away at a dealership. I have a friend who lives there that will test drive it for me. BUT is it out of line for me to ask the dealership to pull the 02 censors off and check if the pre cats are intact? Also this particular Spyder has had 8 previous owners and under 80,000 miles. Help!!
Just bought a 2002 124k $2700 Oxygen sensors bank2 sensor1 code and Bank1 sensor2 light is on and the owner told me it burns little oil, your right man what should I do? Thanks any input would be appreciated
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the sequential manual transmission does have a clutch; it's just electronically controlled. When you shift you are just sending an electrical signal to the ECU to engage the clutch and shift for you.
