Funny how people always assume the worst! Thank you for not telling the owner they need a starter a battery and an electrical harness! Like other shops would!!! Thank you for always uploading stuff and being so nice on the videos! Appreciate the education.
Good troubleshooting, I would also check the battery voltage after turning the vehicle off. It should at least be 12.8V, If not, might need to replace the battery anyway even if the alternator is charging it properly. These V6 RAV4's are little pocket rockets @ 270HP. My gf has the same V6 Limited model but year 2011 and it totally puts my 3rd gen 4Runner with the aerodynamics of a brick to shame. lol I wouldn't trade it for anything though, 3rd gen is best gen! :D
I really enjoy your videos, man! Thanks for reviewing the Duracell battery charger. I have been thinking about getting one of those. I'm looking forward to more of your videos in the future!
Thank you so much for this video!! this was such a lifesaver. My brother had the exact same issue after replacing the battery on his 2010 rav4 with a pushbutton start. After 20 minutes of scratching our heads, I stumbled on this video and did the exact same thing with the fob and it fired up. Thank you so much for the video!
The easiest way to test the battery is just use a jump-starter to get the car started and then once the car is running drive the car around for 10 minutes. This should be more than enough time to partially charge the car battery. After you turn off the car try and start it again (you can always use the jump-starter again to restart the car if you need to). If the car still will not turn over or crank then the problem is due to a bad battery. Batteries tend to last from 4 ~ 6 year before they require replacement. If the problem is just a loose terminal then you might try wedging a small screw or nail between the post and the cable. My Rav4 is a 2002 model and I love the car as it's a breeze to work on and I'm able to fix pretty much everything myself. BTW ~ Jumper cables should have worked on this person's Rav4 as once boosted the Rav4 should keep running till it was shut off as the alternator will continue to supply power to the vehicle but just not to the battery. Whoever boosted the car didn't have a clue as to what they were doing. If the battery and alternator are working properly it only takes 5 minutes to charge up the battery with enough power to restart the car. If the battery is bad the engine will barely even crank over. To test if the alternator is at fault just disconnect the battery while the car is running. If the car dies then the alternator is at fault as the alternator should power the car electricals regardless if the battery is connected or not.
Seriously I have been working on my '07 quite a bit as it's over 120k miles now - I don't know if I'll ever be able to not buy a Toyota. Knew nothing about cars when I bought it just knew Toyota was a good brand from what I'd heard - I got lucky.
All I hear is SNL Hans and Franz 😊 Now I did watch all the video and I must say it’s great. I do believe you should check the voltage, check your battery connections and make sure they are clean, check your 175 alternator fuse and then go to the bigger stuff don’t always assume it’s worst case scenario. Thank you for the video
Toyota Maintenance the only bad thing about that engine is they have oil leak issue I have a 2006 Avalon with 2gr-fe with 240 k miles no issue beside the leak
@@gabrielmerza6904 Right. There are two things: 1. Rubber oil lines to engine oil cooler 2. Rubber VVTI lines It's good idea to change them even no oils leak, because you can quickly spray out all you engine oil
I think putting a jumper batt on the terminals while they are disconnected from the vehicle is good practice to keep the radio presets and computer active... I do this when changing a battery or charging it. Nice video though.. good info thank you
All the lights going crazy was probably the ECM going through all the checks and making sure the theft system is also working properly which needed good voltage to work properly. The battery must need replacing unless the owner left the lights on and that's doubtful with the warning system.
I had a caddy that I would clean and detail for about a hour with all the doors open and it would be dead when I went to start it...all the onboard systems run 24 hours a day . opening doors etc just sucks the power out when it is not running...
They are no faster than the V6 Avalon or V6 Camry. The new prime model is faster and the hybrid is almost as fast. Even the new gas 4 cylinder isn’t bad. I’m no fan of V6s shoehorned in a transverse configuration. I4s are better.
Why the battery got discharged? Peter you should wait until 2 days without driving and start the car to see if the problem was resolved....or you are considering charge the battery every day?
Do you have a load tester? I found that very useful in determining the health of a battery. Voltage doesn't always tell you if the battery is good. I guess the charger tells you that after 12 hours of charging.
Roger. I work on weather equipment at airports. We use a lot of UPS’s so I’ve I’m familiar with battery issues. Thanks for the video. Show us the load meter next time...please..and no metric..ha
I have a 1998 rav4.. Changed the HT cables, it won't start, just cranks..replaced the old ones,just cranks won't start.. Two days now,am walking to work
Last time I changed new battery I lost my key fob programmed, I can not start my 2011 Rav4 . I did call the service company to reprogram the key fob. I saw disconnected the battery terminal same as I did but you still able to start the Rav4 Can you please tell me that did I do the right thing or I should do something else to restart my Rav4
Just asking, should you turn the car off and put an amp meter on the negative terminal wire to see if there is a current draw with the car off? Would there be a draw because of the anti theft system would that be enough to drain a battery if it is near end of life?
Great video, thanks. Have you ever used WD40 on battery post & terminals?. It seems to work great preventing corrosion. I use a small 1" paint brush to apply it once a year.
How long did it take between all the lights on the dash on/ key not working to it being functional again ? Have a similar issue, but after one hour plugged no progress thanks
I have ‘12 RAV4, which I changed the ecm because of a 02 sensor problem. I rewrote vin into ecm with scan tool, car won’t start. Any ideas? Has permanent code for ecm mismatch
2004 Toyota RAV4 Vin - ACA210285091 Engine - 1AZ4797585 Year- 2004 Symptoms: Engine cranks but no start Battery charging light does. NOT come on with ignition turned ON. 7 wires on DLC CONNECTOR i.e. pin 4,7,9,12,13,15 and 16. No continuity between chasis ground mounted on right kick panel and Pin 4 of the DLC CONNECTOR HOWEVER TEST LIGHTS WHEN PLUGGED ON pin 16 and pin 4-?need your help urgently
I removed old battery on Toyota RAV4 2011 and installed new battery. I tried to start the car then I got alarm “ key fob not detected “ , engine start button won’t start. What should I do next
Car owner might have pushed the start button without their foot on the brake pedal thereby turning the ignition to accessories either partly or fully, then ignored the audible warning when they left the car and when they returned, viola, dead battery.
Had a great warranty. I just got a new one there, the old one had a 3 yr free replacement, 84 month prorated, the new one just has a 3 yr free replacement, no proration. I noticed all car batteries are that way now regardless where you buy them.
i think it's because the battery only had 4 volts. not enough to jump. happened to mine. the battery was too old and wasn't holding enough voltage. it read 2.6 volts, even after jumping from another car and using a powerful battery pack, nothing.
Battery snob. So many myths. No they don't like being discharged fully. But it's not like it's sat for 6 months at no charge. Unless a faulty battery is the reason it went flat in the first place this battery may yet give many more years of good service. It needs testing to tell and we weren't shown that.
@@seventhson3228 generally good practice to remove negative cable first, so if you're only going to remove one, remove that one. Reason is because with both battery cables connected, the entire metal chassis (and engine etc) is connected to the negative / ground terminal. That means if you are careless, especially if using a long spanner / wrench / socket tool, and accidentally strike another bit of metal while undoing the positive terminal, then you're effectively connecting (short-circuiting) the positive battery terminal straight through your tool, and the chassis, to the negative battery terminal and that's very very bad - you'll see sparks like off a welding machine. If you remove the negative first, and accidentally strike the chassis while doing so, it doesn't matter - the chassis is already negative/ground anyway - nothing happens. Once you've removed the negative terminal from the battery, the chassis and engine are no longer potential conduits for short circuit so you can more safely remove the positive terminal. As far as I know that's the only real reason to remove the negative first. I don't think electrically it matters. It's just a good safe practice.
agm batteries really dont have the need to have distilled water checked as they are not a flooded type of dc battery. you can slap them on a charger or what not from time to time or what not but thats about it
@@codymartin9060 standard flooded lead acid batteries will have little black plastic tops that can be removed to check and add if needed. but there are Gel and AGM that if you add water some how into a agm battery you will in a sense cause issues
There's some confusion around terminology maybe. Because the vast majority of car batteries sold here in NZ at least are sealed, flooded lead acid type. To me, that's still standard, though they do not have removable caps. They are neither gel nor AGM. Maybe Damien is using 'standard' to mean the older style (still available) that DO have removable caps. Instead I believe the sealed type have a 'labyrinth structure' in the top lids to help collect water and recycle it. Simply not as much is able to evaporate. As for not trusting them? I recently replaced a 6 year old battery, because of signs of age / weakness. But it was not from loss of electrolyte.
I have two civics and a Tundra. The 06 Civic - A/C, brake pads and cruise control switch broke. 84,000 and the A/C system replaced...two weeks later, the engine block cracked. It was 11 years old and Honda was nice enough to pay 80% of new engine block replacement. We will see with the 17 I bought for wife. 1,5 turbo has fuel mixture problems...so I hear. My wife loves her civic.
Absolutely no need to disconnect both neg and pos terminals before charging. Once one is discontinued the circuit to the car is open. Too bad we have shade tree mechanics making videos and misleading people.
@@garyboyh you obviously didn't watch the video. He removed the pos terminal to prevent shorting which is impossible once the neg terminal is disconnected. People who know nothing shouldn't comment.
