I bought my first Sequoia in 2008, drove it 12 trouble free years (except for the water pump) and bought another one in 2020 since I new I would not like the redesign. I also bought a 2020 Tundra for the same reason. And really glad I did!
I did the same thing; a 2019 Sequoia and a 2021 Tundra. Both are built to last! Great video! I’ll be signing up for my 60K mile trans. service - you sold me AMD!
I’m at 250k on our ‘11 Platinum. Replaced one trans solenoid. At about 220k miles. Toyota said it need a trans. Lol Bought a low mile 2016 Tundra. Plan to drive the sequoia until the kids are grown in a couple years then go back to a 4runner or one of the new Land Cruisers. Have driven literally millions on Miles in Toyota trucks and have NEEVER had a major issue.
Had an 07 FJ, put 500k on the clock and sold it for almost as much as I bought it for, then a 21 tundra so I didn’t have to put up with the redesign with the turbo V-6. I’m happy.
I found a low mileage '08 Tundra and got the wifey a '21 4Runner so we could both have Toyotas with proven reliability instead of gambling on the new ones that I expect to have shorter lifespans.
Its funny over the holidays my mom (from California) and a Lexus owner, and I (from Florida) and a Toyota owner learned we are both avid watchers of the Car Nut Channel. Neither of us knew the other one watched the channel, its pretty funny to learn we we’re both fans of the channel and didn’t know it.
You will break the 200k mark with the car still drive like new. My 4runner with the 4.7L V8 is now at 334k miles and I wouldn't hesitate to take it cross country. My Sequoia is at 207k miles and is perfect. It's all about how well you take care of it.
Love your videos AMD and this one is spot on. I own a 2014 Tundra with the 3UR-FE motor and I've had to repair every issue you mentioned in this video. Water pump, heat exchanger leak, cam tower leak, timing chain tensioner, and secondary air injection. However... I feel like this is a testament to how great these motors are... I was able to repair every single issue myself. This motor is easy to work on and service, and it has never left me stranded.
Just started looking into these a few weeks ago after looking at darn near everything else in the three row market but Ive already decided that my wife and I will be buying one of these in the near future to be a long term family hauler. Thanks for all the in-depth knowledge. It gives ya a lot of confidence when shopping.
My family has had our ‘11 since new and it has travelled multiple times from west to east coast and even on two opposite sides of Canada, and it’s still going strong to this day.
Great talk about the Sequoia. I have a 2020 with 5.7 and currently have 54K on it. Only problem is have had with it was vandalism while on vacation. Some persons decided to dump something into the non-locking gas tank. It cost me a fuel pump and set of injectors, definitely not the trucks fault. Locking gas cap installed after the fact. Doesn’t get driven much any more as I have a 2022 Prius for running around so far a both have done what they were purchased for. Roomy vacation truck and economy run about. I’m 70 now so most likely last vehicles I will purchase.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q true, but how many young kids are walking around with a tool bag? It was just a crime of opportunity. Out of state, parked in driveway of quiet neighborhood. Just looking for trouble.
I have a 2001 Sequoia used not brand new. I have not regretted my purchase a single day and still consider it more reliable than the 2009/10 Sequoia I bought just last year as a replacement as my work mates felt I needed a new car. I still prefer the 2001 Sequoia especially when going on long trips as it never breaks down and has a lot of torque. Just routine engine maintenance (never had to open up the engine once) and the occasional suspension and brakes replacement. Personally I feel the older versions are built stronger and are more durable.
The Tundra owners sure do love and miss the 5.7 liter V8. I just saw one that went a million miles, on a YT channel. I test drove one and I liked it a lot.
Almost any well designed and built engine will go that far IF MAINTAINED. (Dont expect that from Kia/Hyundai or Mitsubishi engines). Years ago there was a story in a newspaper about a cab driver in NYC who used a 1957 Cadillac for a taxi. It had over one million miles all in stop-and-go-driving on the original 365 ci (6.0 L) Cadillac engine. He changed the oil EVERY 1000 miles, and likely went through a lot of oil pan drain plugs and oil pans. I totally ignore factory recommended oil change intervals and change every 3000 miles no matter what.
@@donreinke5863 Taxis go through city stop and go driving everday at several hours at a time for the majority of their lives, so it makes sense that he changed the oil every 1000 miles. Compared to the average driver, who won’t be seeing that many miles with their car.
That melting rubber on the rear handle is the only issue my '13 developed. But I replaced it myself, and I'm not any kind of gifted mechanic. And it was very cheap. I also replaced the gas struts that hold up the rear liftgate, but I figure that's common for any liftgate.
My car is going through its 19th Ontario winter. After 18 very salty winters it remains rust free because it gets an annual application of a quality rustproofing product. Rust is a choice. In the Salt Belt, rustproofing is basic preventative maintenance. Those who neglect to rustproof their vehicles will inevitably get rust. This is no different than the inevitable effects of neglecting oil changes.
@@efil4kizum At heart, Krown is a water repellent. It repels the salty water that would otherwise rust the vehicle. To complete the picture, I NEVER wash my car in winter. When it does get washed in the spring it comes out looking as good as new. Other products may work just as well but I KNOW for certain that Krown works.
AMD, Before there was limited production of the GR Yaris or GR Corolla in the Motomachi factory in Japan, there was a corner of the Highlander/Sienna plant in Princeton, Indiana where a team of Hoosier Takumi Masters 'hand built' the second generation of Sequoia. 🤩🤩
Great video! I had a 2006 1st gen Sequoia and replaced it with a 2016 Sequoia. It's been the best truck I've ever owned. The only major issue I've had was the rear engine seal. That wasn't a cheap fix.
@@rj12345rj Unfortunately, no. I bought it used. It was certified, but the warranty had expired by the time the seal started leaking. Cause that seems to be how it always works. 😂
@@f.galvez9301 Any engine than needs one power adder (let alone two) is something I will avoid. Ive driven those twin turbo Ford ecoboost things, and would NEVER purchase anything with a similar design.
Thank you for making this video! I bought our 2008 in 2020 with 165K miles. It had to search the whole country to get a Limited with 8 seats. Had the water pump go out a few months later, realatively simple job. Had a U-joint go out last year, medium job. Had the starter go out this fall, pain in the butt job (thank you for your video on that!). Otherwise it's been a champ, and just hit 212K on the way back from visiting family. My oldest graduates in 2.5 years, so it needs to last at least that long until we don't have 6 kids at home anymore. I'll listen a little closer on cold starts!
I bought the '21 Sequoia specifically for the 8-seater. An absolutely awesome ride. The mileage is THE tradeoff, but it is a versatile vehicle so I take what it gives.
This era Tundra/Sequoia is likely aimed at older folks that grew up with huge, heavy, V8 cars through the 60's and 70's They're big, heavy, not overly complicated with needless technogadgetry, and simply reliable. You do trade fuel mileage for reliability, but you'll likely never find a finer vehicle if simplistic, get in and go, do whatever task is at hand worry free is your thing.
@roymeyer6837 I learned to drive in 70's Cadillacs, Buicks, and Oldsmobiles. I like heavy, substantial vehicles, not overly encumbered by techno BS, that eventually breaks. I love my 2011 Tundras simplistic usefulness. Everything you need, nothing you don't. If I wanted fancy, I'd bought an Infinity or Lexus.
@Kerfuffled569 not so much the Sequoia, but I see a lot of older folks driving Tundras. Especially guys miffed at Ford, GM, or Dodge for reliability issues.
My husband and I bought a 2016 Sequoia new to use with our small travel trailer. It has never disappointed us. I do most of the driving when pulling and it is my regular vehicle to drive. I'm 70, my husband 71. I LOVE my Sequoia. I feel safer in it and it has the capability to get moving if necessary. It has the V 8, 5.4l engine. We plan on keeping it even though we no longer need it to pull a trailer.
Thank you for this one! Always love second gen Sequoia content, especially when it’s made by you. I also love that the MR2 is lurking in the background. I have both of these vehicles and just thought it was kind of cool to see 😂. Happy new year to you, your family and your team!
I just bought a 2015 platinum. I’m blown away! Had 124,000 on it and it was very taken care of. 2nd owner. Any way, because of this video I felt confident in my purchase! Thank you sir for all you do and keep doing it! You’re a blessing!🙏🏽🙌🏽
My wife and I have a 2017 Sequoia platinum 4 x 4 and it’s been the best vehicle. We bought it one year old and it now has 128,000 miles. It’s been very reliable I’m sure you guys will have many years ahead of you with it like we have.
@@SuperSnakePlissken just hit 10k miles last week…. It sits in our garage next to our 2022 Airstream Flying Cloud and only used for pulling…. It will outlive me for sure
That is a nice color. Sadly I wanted army green but you couldn't get a TRD Pro in army green in 2021. You could get any other Tundra in army green which is a fucking joke. My only option was LEZBO GREEN (nicknamed by the Toyota dealership I was at) and I refused that color. I ended up going with magnet gray when I ordered mine. @@TouXu74
My wife drove a brand new Limited, $40k, 2008 until 2022. Torque, hp were excellent. Highway driving was excellent. 13mpg was only negative, but reliability and great SUV made it worth it. Sold for $15k with 185kmiles on it.
Thank you for your wonderful video! I bought my 2015 Sequoia a year ago and I will never regret that purchase. 57 engine has been my dream engine since childhood, and lucky I could get it before too late! For guys who still considering getting one, if you drive it with patience, you can easily get around 15 mpg local driving with AT tires. Also take care of it, 50% of reliability from TOYOTA and another 50% from maintain. Be nice to it and this big bear will never let you down!
My wife drives one and we e had it for awhile now. They are a tank, very heavy. Do yourself a favor, if you buy one and they have the Dunlop’s get rid of them, they are total garbage and wear out very fast. Get the Michelin Defenders, twice the treadlife.
The 2nd gen Sequoia is one of the most underrated SUV's out there. Too bad they didn't sell very well; it is hard to find a good used one. I think the best feature is the 4WD/AWD system. It is essentially a Land Cruiser without locking diffs. The transfer case is actually a Torsen center differential which allows for full time operation (with high and low range). These things are tanks! The drive train and frame is massively overbuilt. If you can find a good one, snatch it up! I kept mine for five years until I got tired of hearing my wife complain about driving such a big vehicle. I should have kept it.
2013 here with 140k. Zero issues and i love this truck. Mint inside and out and zero rust underneath. Cant believe the condition of this thing after all this time.
@@freedomisntfree_44 my wife wants a little more room so shes looking at suburbans I told her don't even think about me getting rid of my Sequoia that thing ain't going nowhere anytime soon
I have a 2020 Sequoia Platinum that I bought new that developed a slight whine in the rear differential at about 35K miles. Since it was over 3 years old my extended warranty paid for the replacement. I don’t think the rear ends are a common problem from what I can tell. Glad to have the extended warranty though. Other than that it’s been trouble free and I much prefer it over the new design with the 3rd row mess.
The one thing that would scare me from buying any used Toyota is the 10,000 mile oil change interval if I could find one with excellent service history, it would be a no-brainer with all your tips and tricks on what to look out for. Thanks for sharing.
Ignore the 10000 mile interval and change at 3-5000. That 10000 is minimum so you can keep the manufacturers warranty, not so that the vehicle continues to run properly.
@@FreedomLover170 @FreedomLover170 I think you misunderstand me. What I mean is when you get a toyota, DO NOT WAIT 10000 miles to oil change. Change it every 3000-5000 miles. The 10000 mile interval I refer to is a warranty minimum and not the same thing as 3-5000. 3-5000 is for a good engine and 10000 is for one that will last as long as the warranty exists. Be scared of actually sitting around for 10000 miles rather than servicing your vehicle. You will end up burning oil regardless but over time 10000 mile oil changes will greatly increase this. The Car Care Nut has said as much in a video if you're willing to look for it.
I would NEVER let any vehicle I own go over 3000 miles between oil changes NO MATTER WHAT the factory says. Its not the oil ( assuming current API/ILSAC certified oil is used) that breaks down as much as the potential of the oil filter becoming less effective if it starts to bypass the filter element. Ive spent over 50 years in automotive repair.
@@FreedomLover170The oil burning is because of inferior oil, poor engine design, or high miles (over 150k), not because of 10k changes with a decent synthetic.
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Sequoia SR5. The only issue I had was brake pads, which I had to replace every 1.5 years. Besides that, it was a tank! Loved that vehicle!
Awesome video! I’m glad that you like the 2nd gen sequoia. I’m planning on keeping my 2014 sequoia forever. I bought it brand new and heavily invested on its maintenance.
I love my 2012 Tundra. Basically the same truck. I live in the northeast. If you're proactive and spray down the under carriage and wheel wells in the winter months I promise you major rust is non existent. I've had mine since new living up here and mine looks like a truck from the South underneath and in the wheel wells. And that's with zero undercoating. Fantastic video C.C.N.
Here in Ontario I take the opposite approach to protect my 2005 vehicle from road salt. Mine gets an annual application of rustproofing at the Krown dealer and I give it a coat of high quality paste wax in the autumn. It NEVER gets washed in the winter. When I do the spring cleaning, it remains rust free and as solid as the day it left the factory in 🌞🌞 California.🌴
@@rightlanehog3151 Hey that's awesome. Good job. My point was with minimal effort and cost there is no reason a truck in the north can't avoid a rusty death. It's the folks that buy cars every 3 to 5 years that don't know how to maintain anything.
Great review of a nice SUV with an excellent V8. I have a rust free RWD 2007 Tundra with the 5.7L 3UZ-FE, it has 315,000 miles. The front timing cover has a weeping oil leak that I clean periodically, it's nothing that requires me to add oil between oil & filter changes. I bought the truck when it had 270,000 miles and it had a sticking chain tensioner that was very loud, I used a pour in bottle of ATS oil system treatment to clean out carbon build up and varnish - the ticking stopped. My regular cab short bed truck is easily 1,000 pounds lighter than the Sequoia, so my performance and fuel economy is much better than what any RWD Sequoia delivers.
1/4/24 - I am impress by your honorable dedication To educate us of our need to research, drive and get a pre-purchase inspection *Pre-purchase saved me buying lemon problems ! Blessings and Peace Ty
OMG, AMD! I am the owner of a 2009 LX570 with 160,000 miles on it. I have noticed the sound of timing chain tensioner since last May. Thank you for letting me know what exactly that is! Could you do a video of changing the timing chain tensioner? Thank you!
Great video. I was in the market for a Sequoia. However, can't justify it as a daily driver. I guess I get back to the 4Runner. My 1990 SR5, V6 manual was by far the best Toyota I've owned. My Previa was the least inspiring. Love your detailed analysis and explanations. 🚙
Thank you for the video. 6 months ago I purchased a 2014 Platinum with 195,000 miles. I really like it and the original owner did great by every 5k mile oil changes. The only concern I have is no record of tranny maintenance. But now that it's over 200,000 miles, I guess the advice is to leave it and deal with a failure down the road. My mechanic checked and said its full of fluid and it looked good. I hope it will go to 300,000 before I need a rebuild or replacement.
Unless you have...or have proof of..regular transmission fluid changes, I would leave it alone. I was told by an old transmission rebuilder who had a few decades in rebuilding all makes and models that changing fluid introduces fresh solvents in the transmission and may rapidly degrade seasoned friction components (clutch discs and bands) Transmission fluid is a solvent oil. You can actually use it to remove grease and automotive grime from your hands after doing mechanical repairs.
@@dslwizard4925 Ive personally seen evidence of that. I had a GM Turbo Hydramatic 400 (a very robust transmission except for its one weak point of occasionally breaking the second gear snap ring out of the case) It was factory installed in an old Buick Park Avenue. I had planned to rebuild the transmission at a later date. I changed the fluid as an experiment, and when I tore it down a few months later for its rebuild, most of the friction discs had begun flaking apart. It was just a matter of time until it would have failed completely.
I bought a 2009 with 160,000 , oil records changed every 5000 miles, no transmission maintenance. I did a drain a fill with Toyota fluid. He had a video on the correct way to do it. It doesn’t change all the fluid but does introduce new fluid which helps drastically. If you repeat the procedure you will eventually get all the fluid. Just check out his video. It’s easy
I did drain and refill on my 2011 Sequoia transmission at 123k miles despite Amd’s warnings. Trany still worked perfectly after that till the day I traded it for my 2018 Sequoia. I couldn’t stand to leave the dirty old fluid in there.
I love this type of video! I find it so helpful as a consumer to be able to be informed and know what to look for when I'm going to buy my next used Toyota later this year. May the Lord bless and keep you and your family as well:)
Where is the secondary air injection filter on a 2008 5.7 on a tundra? Didn’t know they had one. I replaced the secondary air valve twice in 345,000 miles. Love the channel thanks
Great video like all of your toyota sequoia and tundra 2 gem! I just got my first sequoia a 2 gen 2009 after having a tundra 2008 they are both a tank super great vehicles
Outstanding video TCCN! Thank you. I have a 2013, turning 180K soon. I had Subaru's, which were great, upsized to a Chevy Z71 Tahoe, and now to this Sequoia. I was blown away by the design, ride, logic, simplicity coupled with efficiency of the interior. I was considering downsizing to a GX460, however, this vehicle seems like a "Diamond in the Rough". Thanks again for your incite!
If you’re constantly losing coolant consistently without seeing any coolant ANYWHERE its more than likely the heat exchanger valley plate. Sometimes hard to diagnose if it leaks from certain areas of the plate. Mine was leaking from the front of the plate which was allowing coolant to drain into these deep holes in the block. When I finally removed the intake manifold there was this massive coolant tumor forming. Consider getting the Hewitt Technologies secondary air injection delete kit if you’re attempting the valley plate repair. Allows you to literally remove every component of the secondary air injection system. And makes the repair so much easier. Reinstalling the SAIS air switching valves is HELL
Great, I mean GREAT video. Thank you. Bought an ‘09 with 276k miles on it almost two years ago. It’s been great so far, minus the horrible gas mileage. It sitting on 35’s gets me 8-9mpg instead of the 11-13mpg it should get.
Great video as always! I love your channel. I'm not sure if you made any videos on the second gen Rav4 you had in the shop. I recently purchased one a few months ago and im loving it. There's lots of conflicting information online for this gen of Rav4. Me and probably a lot of people would love to hear your thoughts on the model and any common issues. Keep up the best toyota content on youtube.
Another issue that appears to be more common as these age is transmission solenoid issues. Usually will set a code and not want to shift past 3rd gear. Either replacing the solenoid, or the whole valve body, will fix the issue. Dealerships will want to take people for a ride with a full transmission replacement since they do not replace internal components. One more that appears common on 2nd gen Tundras/Sequoias is steering rack bushings tend to go bad and cause a clunk/pop as you turn the wheel. Starters usually will fail along with the water pumps you mentioned by the 150k mile mark. All of the issues are fairly easy to remedy, except the timing chain rattle/cover leak, but they are otherwise very solid vehicles. For some reason, and it is extremely rare, a few 3URs also seem to have valve spring failures. Always happens without warning. I try not to lose any sleep over it, though.
I have a Lexus GX460 throwing the transmission codes for solenoids and staying in 3rd gear. Dealers are saying to replace. If we manually shift for 15 minutes on a cold start, it’s totally fine?!?! We may give the valve body and solenoid idea a shot as it’s way less than a replace of $8k. Thanks for the info
My 2008 actually had a valve spring break at 198k, about 3 years ago. It was really weird, when it 1st happened, all of the lights on the dash lit up and started flashing and it lost power. I pulled over, and turned it off to try checking it out. I didn't see anything obvious, so I restarted it, and it fired up, lights off and running normal. Drove it for another month without issue, then suddenly it did the same thing. Once again, turned it off, then turned it on and it was running normal again and no codes. This happened about once a month for the next 8 months. Everytime it happened, I'd try to figure something out to fix, but with out a code, and it running so well between issues, it was really hard to diagnose. Finally it started to have the issue more consistently, and I was able to find a good mechanic that diagnosed it correctly. In the end, we had 2 broken valve springs, and a bent valve. We opted to replace all of the valve springs and a bunch of other stuff while we had it torn apart. Fast forward 2 years and another 30k miles, and we ended up replacing a catalytic converter probably due to the amount of driving we did while it was broken, then a week after I fixed that, the battery and started died at the same time. So, here I am and it is actully running pretty good, but I'm a bit gun shy, and have a hard time deciding if I love it and want to keep it forever or if I hate and want to sell it as fast as i can. When it is running, i really do enjoy driving it and it has served my family well.
@@striderwolf687definitely go that route. I know of several people that have solved that exact same problem without a full transmission replacement. I'm getting ready to do the exact same thing on a 2008 5.7L Sequoia with 300k miles that I picked up for super cheap because the previous owners thought it needed a whole new transmission. It shifts beautifully once it warms up a bit and you get past that solenoid code issue.
I drove a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7L engine, 11,000 miles, from the Gulf of Mexico/Galveston, TX to the Canadian Arctic Ocean/Tuktoyaktuk, NT, and back. The only problem encountered was the tailgate hatch handle, especially in the mornings, when the weather was cold. Fortunately, the problem went away after one of the mechanics at the Eagle Plains, YT service centre on the Dempster Hwy, tweaked it with a pair of pliers.
AMD, it would be awesome if you could do another in-depth review of the 3rd gen tundra and talk about the pros and cons in regards to what you know about the 10 speed transmission and the new engine, whether or not you think it’ll be reliable etc. anyways thanks for your videos!
Man I’ve a been subscriber for a few years now. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain and share knowledge and tips! Much appreciate what you do! I have 4R, Tundra and IS350 😂 Respect!!
This channel is way more better than that old guy who explains things in a very high tone😅😅 and with all the gestures..and in the end cant understand what he was talking about..
I would love to see thw rest of the seriess with all of the vehicles. A lot of us are buying/bought used and would love info on them. Like the older avalons/highlanders/rx/sienna/gx etc. Im not currently in the market for a used one but am doing research for other members of my family.
I have the same ticking noise on my brand new 2023 GX460! Is it possible that I have a faulty chain tensioner? It happens when I start the car in the morning and the noise is coming from the driver side.
I didnt service my transmission and at 160k it died. I bought it used and it always had a shutter that would randomly happen. Once it got repiared the shutter is gone and now i know where it came from. Got it repaired for $4200 and im 15k miles in already.
Great video. I purchased a 2007 Sequoia about three years ago, it had been broken in to and almost all the interior was stolen because it had burl wood trim accent. After many trips to the junkyards and lots of hours on eBay, I got it all back together. Love the ride, mine is a limited with the rear air suspension. Two things I learnt, if the bulbs that illuminate the rear license plate are blown, the rear window will not work. If you do buy a used sequoia in that date range, I don't know about the new ones, make sure you get all the keys and key fobs, it is very difficult to reprogram a new key fob and just as difficult to do a spare key if you do not have the original key.
Great Video - Thank you. Regarding the brakes, all spot on comments on how they are lacking and pulsate. I went as far as getting the Stoptech Big Brake kit - it does help quite a bit where I can actually engage the ABS in the dry now on this heavy truck - much more confidence inspiring from that point of view. However, you don't mention the spongy brake pedal feel that plagues many of these models based on repeating threads on the various Sequoia forums. With the car off, the brake pedal is solid - like a rock, even with two feet pressing on it and back against the seat back. The second you turn the car on, the solid pedal feel goes away and it becomes a spongy mess giving the feel that you can't trust the brakes. Pumping the brakes helps a tiny bit but not much. No one seems to be able pin down what is causing this and how to fix it. And it does not appear to be bleeding related (air in the fluid despite the symptom). The bleeding method does not seem to make any difference: Gravity bleeding, vacuum bleeding, pressure bleeding or pump and hold - all the same results. Many people recall the feel is like that even when truck was new. If you know how the pedal feel can be made better that is not bleeding related, maybe you could make a video on that? Many people are not happy with the spongy confidence lacking brake pedal feel of the Sequoia. If you need more detail on this issues, reach out and I'll be happy to explain further.
I find that the only 2 things that stiffen the brake feel is an intentional activation of the ABS (something I do monthly along with 4wd engagement), and when the traction system activates; cycle your valves kids. I also can’t say enough about the change to quality stainless braided brake lines (all of them) and a good pad break-in procedure. BigWood is under braked up front; and the Stoptech kit is on my shopping list. It better not have any clearance issues with my pretty (heavy) TRD sway bar.
I have a 2016 tundra 5.7 that I have taken great care of with 170,000 miles. I have replaced the radiator, water pump belts and pulleys, done regular maintenance otherwise. Am I a bad bad person for not ever changing the transmission fluid? Probably too late at this point correct? I also have a 2016 Sequoia with 100k mi. that I have not done anything with the transmission as well. 😅 As a big Toyota fan, I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos.
I have a 2017 Lexus GX460 1UR-FE. I always wondered what the whirling sound was when I shut off the truck. Glad to know it’s a normal happy sound of the secondary air injection doing its job. Thank you very much.
Thank you. very informative. I have an amusing reaction to your through knowledge of these vehicles. At the beginning, I think I want one because they are so durable and reliable. Then you proceed to scare the idea out of me.
Have to say this model is a pass for me. Like you said none of these are major problems but those areas when they do leak are going to be quite expensive if you do not work on cars yourself.Thank you for reviewing what people really need to know about their cars. Love the content.
ive owned three of these. My 2010 had 128 miles on it when the dashboard lit up with all warnings. Turns out there was a series of VINs for that were produced with VVTI springs installed too tightly and set off the CEL. Had to get those replaced.
Please please please do a video on the common problems with the new A25A-FKS engine! As always I love your videos and will continue to watch a support! Have a blessed day
I have a 2007 LS460 and after it sits for a few days there is a little rattle sound when you first turn it on sometimes. It reminds me of the timing chain rattle in my older Mercedes 420SEL
Just traded our 2012 4runner for a Sequoia because we’re having a 3rd kid. LOVED LOVED LOVED the 4runner. Sad to see it go but we need a 3rd row now. I had been reading stuff on forums about the 3rd gens having engine failures so I opted to get a used 2nd gen platinum with a 5.7. I have 188k miles on my 2014 Tundra and had a 2013 for a short time before that (had kids and swapped the DC for a crewmax). The 5.7 is a fantastically reliable motor. Love it other than the gas mileage.
I waited two years to get rear springs for my wife’s sequoia platinum from the dealer. Not eta. You also have to replace the rear lower control arms. I bought those as well. I couldn’t wait any longer and ended up getting arnott airbags and it’s back on the road after sitting for 22 months. I still wish I could’ve done the swap. Nothing in the used marketplaces either.
I replaced my '04 Super Duty 4 wheel drive with the 5.4 and 204,000 miles with a 2008 Sequoia Platinum 2 wheel drive with the 5.7 and 197,000 miles and it is such a great vehicle. It'll tow a car on a trailer up Donner Passl with ease and back down without hardly using the brakes. One thing I have found is not to trust the fuel gauge. The first time I ran out of gas the gauge said I had 2 miles to go unitl empty, but the needle read almost an 1/8th. The second time I ran out the gauge said 22 miles to empty. When I tried to start it and the starter kept cranking until I turned the key back off I thought I had some other weird issue besides simply running out gas. Later on I realized it cranks 'til it starts at the tap of the key, these "new" cars are always amazing me as I always try to stay a decade or two behind automotively. The only other problem I have is getting in, I can't seem to do it without having to seriously duck the top off the door frame, and I'm only 6'-0", and forget about wearing a baseball cap. As far as a plastic feeling interior, try an '04 Super Duty XLT on, that felt cheap. The Sequoia Platinum is plastic but has a MUCH better feel to it, almost luxuri.... ok no but it's waaaay nicer. The electric fold down third row is great and has plenty of room for big guys, and the second row has even more. And don't get me started on the power down rear window, I love it. I don't know why every SUV doesn't have it. I could not have bought a better vehicle for my needs 2 1/2 years ago for $12,500 /$14,000 out the door, and I live in Ca so there isn't a speck of rust anywhere. I highly recommend these if you tow and/or haul people or just groceries and don't have a long commute, lol. I drive less than 10 miles a day. And if you tow and don't need a 4 wheel drive get the 2 wheel drive, it has a rating of almost 10,000lbs compared to 7,500lbs for the 4 wheel drive, unless you have a small push rod and need the validation.
I had a 2012 and it was one of the nicest vehicles i've ever had and i've had a lot of different cars as a dealer. My only complaint(s) were poor mileage and a bit sluggish on power.
@@derakbell8143 It was my wife's car... i drive a 6.7 cummins ram so most cars feel sluggish compared to that... It had good power but just wasn't snappy and quick
I have my eye on a 2011 platinum with 227,000 miles on it as a, weekend ride. I look at this everyday but haven't pulled the trigger yet. It looks great but don't how well the previous owner took care of it. 💯 👍🏾
I'll begin my comment with where you end all of yours! The Lord bless you! I have been fixing my own cars since my first 72 Chevelle engine rebuild when I was 14, and thought I knew enough...but I have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you. I have a question, if possible. Our 2008 Sequoia needs the Secondary Air Pump Assy (17610-0S010) and Valves (25701-38064 replaced. I'm gonna try to do it, but I want to buy after market parts (either Dorman or Ackova) to save some money. Unless you tell me that I need to go strictly Toyota OEM parts. Thanks for you help.
I purchased a new sequoia identical to this back in 2008. Great truck but the independent rear suspension is horrible. It ate a new set of rear tires within 8k miles. It was expensive having to keep buying tires all the time. I had this truck back in the dealership many times and no solution, I also had it aligned at a few different tire shops but no luck. With this and the horrible gas mileage 13MPG I decided to sell and get a suburban. Best decision so far.
