Toyota STUCK CV Axle? (Sienna V6 at 556k miles!) 

I own this same vehicle with 84,324k miles. Heard about the vehicle only driven to church on Sundays. This one belonged to the church. Mice ate wiring, it sat for 10+ years. Fixed wiring, new fuel pump, cleaned injectors, changed fluids, runs like new.

I appreciate using the correct term of "engine mount" instead of "motor mount"....Thank you, Ivan.

Has enough miles to got to the Moon and back, and still on the original CV axle - cars were better back then 🙂 Great to see a "no scanner, no modules" repair, for a change 🙂Great job, Ivan!

I have a farmer trick for you for future endeavors. Wrap a chain around the CV axle inner cup. Extend the chain away from the vehicle parallel to the axle and with a wrist flick motion get a whip action going in the chain. The weight of the chain and whip motion combine to yank out the axle. It is commonly done when removing the knife from a sickle mower or haybine type implement. It will save the mount and eliminate the effort to change the mount

A couple of years ago I actually had one come right out which was amazing never happens and I always antiseeze the new stuff in case it has to come out in the future

Holy crap! I haven't had to deal with those for so many years now. When I was doing them, it was on site. It would take me quite a few hours, but I'd manage to get them out without having to replace the mount. I'll have to go through my old pics or records to remember how I did them. Lol. I do remember a battle every time. What great memories! 🤣🤣😬 I'm just getting to your method or plan now....

Hi Ivan. I have to hand it to you . Doing a job like that and performing the camera work at the same time . . I have done similar work and that would be quite a challenge. Very nicely executed ⚒🛠👍

It amazing how far you can get with regular maintenance.

If only the actual job was as easy as you make it look. Great job Ivan

Nice job Ivan, wow that's a lot of miles on that wagon. Owner must keep up with the services pretty well !

A stuck cv axle??? Ivan never ceases to disappoint in the crazy issues that find there way to this mechanical wizard. 500k miles is pretty impressive as well. And holy smokes I experienced this in a Lexus suv I owned of same year. That carrier bearing is stupid tough. I cut my axle with a sawzaw…haha 😂😂

Nice no lift required fix. A couple of floor jacks got you there. Keep up the good work!

For **once** I actually knew exactly the problem from the thumbnail. I had an 08 Sienna, one of the most durable vehicles we've ever had (more like a Sherman tank with a sliding door), and I'd read about seized carrier bearings on the passenger side CV axle. We never had to replace either side before my wife decided she didn't want to keep it once the kids were gone, but man, I was **prepared** LOL. 😂. I swear those Sienna's were nearly indestructible.Thanks, Ivan!

A very satisfying job because you know the customer is going to say "it drives like a new car".

I started laughing on the onset of this installment. We saw the same thing in Saint Louis. When ever a Toyota came in needing a right axle I also quoted replacing the mount. Brought back memories. The 80-90's models did the same thing.

Sure did need new axles and cv joints. That was a mess under there, Nice repair Ivan.

Impressive vehicle. Sad that the OEM CV axle is a hard find and probably five times the cost. Fingers crossed the El Cheapo part lasts.

Great videos Ivan. Welding cast is only for expert welders and would most likely break in a week in this case.

I’ve been looking for a Sienna… now I’m going to look harder!!!

Ivan, i usually just unbolt the mount and remove it with the axle. Have done this when i needed to remove the axle snd it was still good. In your case, both mount and axle was shot, so likely faster doing it your way.

My sister and husband have one of these vans with around 300,000 miles. Great vans!

That was much easier than the last couple have been. BUT you continue to succeed. Way to go.

Half a Million miles,......that's not too shabby! Personally, I get bored looking at the same dashboard for that long.🙂 Good work my Man.

Always a good day when Ivan posts a new video!

Ivan getting greasy, not a Pico scope in sight! Love it ! Great video !

Excellent video and a testament to old school Toyota engineering. I wouldn’t expect a German car to be that simple.

Muy bueno. Made it look easy . Very happy customer

Thanks. I have a 2005 V6 Sienna. I’m the second owner. This information is valuable.

I've had pretty good luck with Chinese axles. They are getting better at making simple mechanical parts, and getting the metallurgy correct most of the time. It's the electronic parts that are extra sketch.. and don't even work, right out of the box sometimes. (as you know very well).

My daughter sienna is at 370k... replaced with new alternator. Serpentine belt and idlers. Keeps on going like the rabbit 🐰🐰

Maybe Scotty is right after all with the Toyota brand. Nice fix and a happy customer, no doubt.

unbelievable how good you are, way much better than Erich'O South Main Auto or Ray°s in Florida. You would deserve way much more subscribers! Keep up good job your customers get appreciated! I got an odd issue on my 6 Years old Renault kangoo: recently the turn signal started to double speed flashing even though all bulbs were healthy. I tried to look up all forums and so on but nothing mentioned anything like that. I tried your troubleshooting method by starting going through the electrical system and I figured out that the only one aftermarket towing hook socket soaked with rainwater over the years what could not be dried out even at 40°C hot summer times. Once I drained the water and dried out the micro-switch the turn signal became normal. Interestingly there was not oxidation on the pins all were bright and shiny. I used a Hungarian-Russian solution and reinforced the sealant rubber cap with some silicone paste :)

Interesting nice solution with cutting the mount with a diamond blade for salvaging the mount for welding if needed

I made a clamp that locks onto the shaft so I can use a long prybar to force it out using the subframe as the fulcrum

Man you always come up with solutions I'd never think of!! I had this issue on my 2001 camry about a year ago. Paid a shop to try replacing my axle, and they couldn't get it out. So I ended up cutting it just like you mentioned, but only one cut. Then i unbolted the engine mount, and shimmied it out through the pass side with the axle still attached. Put the mount back in after I hammered the old axle out, and the new axle wouldn't fit! Turns out the shop beat on the bearing race badly enough to close it up just enough to prevent the new axle from going in. Got a new Toyota mount and went with a Cardone remanufactured axle over the typical autozone kind. all good since!

Great job as always Ivan.

Oh yeah, same for a 2011... brutal. I did one and I ended up cutting the inner shaft and then removing the bracket and getting it apart. Can be a real monster. 2011 bracket isn't part of motor mount.. makes it a little easier

Fabulous technique and skill to get this done with minimum destruction. It's technique and can do attitude that sets you apart. Great job 😀😀😀😀😀

Is that Sienna with less than 556,000 miles acting up AGAIN??🤣

I use to work at Toyota and had this and use to use destructive methods , although once came along a post on IATN from a mechanic in Maine his method is 100% ....worker for me there after . Flat Face bit on airhammer on the bearing retainer while having someone pry at the same time on the axle it starts coming right out. Not kidding i was shocked using that method as well as coworkers thereafter. I was basically posting on IATN at the time as well as others about our methods and this mechanic from Maine scolded us all lol , i felt pretty small but was happy i found another way .

556K, Owner really loves it and took very very good care of it. An actual mechanical repair, no scanner needed. Nice Ivan. I would be throwing tools and screaming bad words.😁

If the boots would have been replaced it probably would not need the aftermarket axle. I just got a OEM used left axle for my old Camry (45K supposedly?) because the prior owner had it replaced with a Chinesium because the boot was bad on the original! Well this replacement has about 6K and the boot is trashed! NEVER throw away original Toyota parts. I also got a OEM used oil pan to replace that depressed one that someone pointed out to Me that I didn’t even notice. ( that was before the cataract fix) Nice work Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸

I would be willing to bet the tripod bearings were frozen and when you would accelerate the bearings wouldn't let the axle move under the load and it would move the engine instead. With the oil leak that engine has I would say that deteriorated the engine mount. That car has about 40,000 miles more than my car. I probably won't ever need to replace the drive axles on it. Great video!

It's jobs like these that make me miss dealer life. We had a dedicated washbay hoist and it was worth It's weight in gold to run a car like this on and smash the engine bay with degreaser and a hot pressure washer = like new engine bay before you even start working on it.

I had to do the same job on an 08 camry with the V6. I ended up just cutting the axle with a sawzall and installed a new bracket. Vibration completely fixed.

Thank you,I’m getting tools and parts to replace both right and left passenger axle and engine mount on my 2001 Toyota Sienna.

Ex Toyota Tech here.... Air hammer on the mount on the bearing circumference area, and BIG prybar pushing axle outboard against bracket, SIMULTANEOUSLY! It always worked.

Good thinking. Nicely done Ivan !

I have never been able to remove one one these without an acetylene torch. The fire wrench is now my first and only choice for this job.

I literally just went through this Saturday on a rav 4. Tried for 2 hours to beat it out took bolts out of bracket and ended up cutting the axle with torch between bearing and transfer Case

Wow! you sure can think and conceptualize every job out before you touch anything...This video is great! beautiful install....If the owner "takes it easy" on the parts, they should last quite a while.....

Eric O would break out “big nasty” and a torch. I love his videos

I really loves the birds singing.

That is a great, least destructive repair. The non-moving steering wheel tells the story: fixed!

Having studied this job intensely, this is a destructive way of removing the passenger-side Toyota CV axle from the clutches of the infamous carrier bearing bracket. I presented the non-destructive method, requiring an air hammer, a tool I did not have, in another comment on this video. What you will need for this destructive method is a Milwaukee 2821 Sawzall, a 6-inch Lenox thick-metal Lazer CT carbide tip blade, cutting fluid, a welder’s flame resistant full face balaclava, a welder’s long sleeve shirt, and eye protection as well. You will also need an assistant to turn the driver-side front wheel clockwise on command. First mark all around the passenger-side CV axle about 2-inch from the left-hand side of the carrier bearing bracket. Then take a punch and prick the axle a half-dozen places around the axle, giving the blade a place to seat. After covering the blade in cutting oil, cutting flush with the back of the tulip, the inboard joint housing, cut from the outside to the center as your assistant turns the CV axle. Over multiple passes, you will feel the lumps of metal that need to be cut down. Hot metal flakes will fall like glitter and you will appreciate the balaclava and long sleeve shirt. When the blade starts throwing sparks, stop and douse it with more cutting fluid. After you have cut through the right-hand side, cut through the left-hand side using the same procedure. Then you are free to remove the remnants of the CV axle and bracket as well. First, remove the right-hand side of the axle. Then unbolt and remove the bracket. Finally remove the left-hand side from the transmission. To remove the remnants of the CV axle from the carrier bearing bracket, place it in a vise with the right-side up and drench it in Liquid Wrench. Let it set for 4-6 hours or overnight. Holding the bracket, take a half-dozen swings at the left-hand side of the CV axle with a 4lb sledge hammer and it should pop right out. Of special note, I did filled passage around the carrier bearing with Red “N” Tacky grease a week before the job. I replaced the carrier bearing impingement bolt with a M10x1.25mm Zerk fitting that I found on eBay. (The bolt holding on the protective bracket can be replaced with a M8x1mm Zerk fitting, it also leads to the center passage as well, so it is your choice.)

WOW. You make it look to easy. Way to go.

That was the best educational video I have seen in a long time the grinder was the way to go 👍🏻

I have a 98 rav4 that has a center bearing setup that is similar to this, but it’s actually less ridiculous than the setup on the van because it’s not shared with a motor mount. Great work as usual!

The best channel on RU-vid. Keep the videos coming.

Hoping to get this many miles from my 2004 Sequoia V8. Has around 175,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Love the air hammer, handy tool to have.

I did this job 3 years ago in 2020 as I was replacing the transmission in a 2000 ES300. That bearing was available at the Toyota dealer. I had to replace it for some reason. I can't remember if it was because it was worn out or I damaged it when I removed it. I might have unbolted the mount from the engine and tweaked it over enough to get the alignment dowels out and then removed the mount and axle as a unit and worked on it when it was removed from the car. I do not remember having much trouble as it was not an interference fit. And things are just as rusty here. Trivia... In that year, the Lexus got a different transmission than the Camry, and it was probably the heaviest passenger car transmission I have ever handled. I can deadlift pretty much any automatic transmission, but I could not do it to this one.

Back in 1978 I had a 1972 Toyota Celica. Tough as nails.

Nice! Good analytical thinking!

Satisfying repair Ivan. There may be a lift in your future... lol

Sometimes less force and more finesse is required. While it's easier with a lift , I use a very long and heavy punch (lot of mass) with a 3 lb hammer, apply a little heat to the carrier, (no need to get it cherry red or burn the shop down) everything in moderation. Give firm and deliberate blows to the punch/axle, give it a turn now and again. Remember moderation, pounding on it with air hammers and prying and carrying on do nothing. You would be surprised how this works so well, counterintuitive to say the least. But remember the story about the 2 bulls on top of the hill looking over a heard of cows ........

Great job this was my morning Breakfast

Good job, Ivan. If you recall me mentioning when I was there with the Grand Caravan, this is the exact car down to the color that my father-in-law had and which he donated at 215k miles (had plenty of life left). Wish I had met you a bit earlier and I would've given it to you to use as a loaner to replace the Olds. Anyway, he had a torn inner boot a few years ago and I ran into the same problem with the bearing. Since I caught it early and the joint was still good, I used a Flexx Boot 3000 with a cone tool to stretch a new boot onto the joint after disconnecting the axle from the hub; the kit came with new grease and the cone; it was tough to stretch on but it worked and it got me out of a jam; of course, that wasn't an option in your case, but thought I'd let you know anyway.

Hope the Chinese parts last more than one year. Great vehicle! Nice fix Ivan!

Did one of these on a camry few weeks ago. Those just house the carrier and aren't a mount as well. Unbolted and took cv out with OEM cv puller tool. Tried to get it in the press but ended up using a torch and hammer method. Next time I'll just chop it off haha.

I did a V8 Lexus LS460. I has the same carrier bearing on the axle, but the bearing is built into the aluminum housing of the transmission. It is completely encased on the back side. There was no way to hammer it out of case and I was afraid I would break the aluminum transmission housing. It just had a torn boot that had just torn. I tore it apart, cleaned the joints and re-greased it and put new boots on it, and sent the new axle back. It was a nightmare, because there was no room around that inner axle boot to work. I won't do another one. It was a pain to find aftermarket boots that fit, finding clamps that would fit, just a complete messy nightmare that tied up my garage for a week. And the old axle had grease that smelled like weed, so I smelly like pot for a few days afterwards.

I've had good luck with Detroit Axle chinesium. They seem to be a cut above. They are a little pricey but so far, good service.

My wife had a '97 Camry with a similar arrangement when we met. Now I know why that bolt and housing were so obliterated by hammering! I never dealt with it, because she had the axles replaced early on and bought a lifetime warranty. When they needed to be replaced a second time, she took it back to the original shop. She sold that car with over 250,000 miles. Now the '07 that replaced it is coming up on 200,000 miles. The 4-banger in the old one leaked oil, and the newer one burnt oil - until I started using heavier oil.

Think I've mentioned them before but at the risk of repeating - in the U.K. all vehicles over three years old have to have a basic roadworthiness test - it's not exhaustive even though exhaust emissions are measured. However; a broken rubber boot on a CV joint is a fail - off road until fixed unless you wanna chance your arm with no tax (license plate). As they've put up ANPR cameras everywhere (I think there's one actually in my bathroom) it's not a good idea - big fine and they can crush your car.

This is a nice example of why as a layperson customer I don't DIY much beyond changing oil or a battery. This is one of those 'snowball' situations where things can get much worse before they get better.

Lenox also makes a diamond-tipped wheel. I've had one for years, and it just won't quit!

Nice work Ivan. Lucky for you, that's only FWD. I recently had to replace that same axle on a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD. And let me tell you, that was messy to get out as it actually cracked the lower end of the snout of the transfer case when the axle bearing sleave came out with the axle. It looked like someone else had tried very hard and failed getting it out with a prybar or something. Luckily, I was able to salvage the old sleave and drive it back into the transfer case and install a new axle without any farther issues.

That looks as much fun as trying to get the gas. Tank Pins straps out of my 92 Camry.

I agree that the mount is probably "weldable"..I'm guessing it may be cast steel rather than iron, and weld fairly easily. But weld shrinkage can be impressive...after it cools, it would be neither the right size, nor round. Welding around the inside of a stuck, pressed in bearing race is a removal method- the shrinking weld will reduce the OD, no slitting of the race even necessary. They are often loose enough to actually fall out. I'm not suggesting that as a removal method for this job, just saying that welds can really distort things, replacement was a better idea, unless it's a rare unavailable part. I really try to preserve OEM cv joints, they are so much better than replacements. Fix ripped boots right away, and regrease! It's worth saving the stock ones. Toyota and Honda sometimes specify grease amounts by weight, and it is usually much more than those packages that come with the replacement boots. Be sure to use molybdenum disulphide grease. I have 2 Corollas, 410k and 350k with original CVs, not original boots, though.

I will put that one in the memory bank. Great tip Ivan.

ive used a chain wrapped around the inner cv housing with a slide hammer. comes right out. or you can use a large prybar and pry against the inner drive axle cup while rotating the wheel. right close to the trans.

Ivan, I once had an older Toyota that has that same type of inner tripod cv joint, which consists of three rollers that slide up and down a matching cylinder. This car had a weird shake and shimmy at certain speeds, and especially on acceleration. The previous owner changed both axles, but to no avail. I could tell the car had been lowered, so I measured the distance of the center line of the wheel to the center line of the transmission output, shaft, and found almost 2 inch difference in height. Reading about those tripod joints, I found they were not designed to handle too much of an angle change. so I installed new springs and presto-chango the shaking was gone. Great video, but I would have steam cleaned it first. 😂😂😂

My Holden VY SS Commodore has that sort of vibration at 60 km/h (40 mph) which I think is caused by a buckled wheel rim because it does wobble in first gear when the rear wheels are lifted off the ground. I have had 2 of them straightened which I am yet to paint then throw back.on the rear of the car & I am going to get those 2 rear rims straightened then I am going to repaint them as well. They were made by the R.O.H. wheel company in Australia which is closed now & the car is 20.5 years old now & the new old stock rims cost a fortune if I can get them. I have replaced the CV joints in the back of the car so I hope one of them isn't jammed up now but I am sure that the shimminess was there before I replaced them !

Got to love that passenger side mount axle hole

Tetris huh? Cool trick Ivan, you are so smart!!!

Well done - and informative!

Very cool, probably need to replace the other engine mount/s as they got 555555555000miles on them.😎

1MZFE engine I bet! Bullet proof with regular oil changes.

I found them remanned at Yota for 250 per side. They actually keep parts for a very very long time compared to other makers! Always worth checking their parts page! You can always pack grease into that bolt hole to break the bearing free if your mount is still good.. pack it full of grease.. put the bolt in.. pack again.. repeat as necessary.

I have one pushing 300k love it .. problem free engine wise..broke coil spring and bad automatic door cable the only problems.. knock on wood

Thanks Ivan!

Last time I saw the "trick" of cracking the bearing with a forcing screw attempt, it stripped out the carrier and it had to be replaced anyway. And no it didn't help get the axle out.

Toyota's integrated outside oiling system is going full blast on that engine. How much oil is flowing out from the valve covers?

Super easy to do. Camry has same thing which I've replaced countless times. Mind ya, not in rust belt lol. I brake cleaned everything under it. But you didn't do any brake clean action lol lol. Great video, Ivan!

think the bolt with the rubber washer is more to stop the outer race on the bearing spinning and the clip holds it in

B4 I even watch the whole video... Just take your Air hammer (flat top) & the vibration on the bottom of the carrier bearing housing ( remove the 12 or 14mm bolt on the bottom ) And it'll walk the bearing right out of the carrier housing every time AND the splines OUT of the diff in 1 piece !!!!!! E-Z peazy !!! NO cutting the mount, OR any need to replace ANYTHING except the axle !!!!!

We have a great place that rebuilds them as well as steering racks/boxes. In Ontario California. They install too and do a great job.

What I've never understood is why do they not grease them or put anti-seize on them from the factory It would make it so much easier to do it

Why write a comment when you can write a book. I once owned a ‘92 DSM AWD turbo that had an axle like this except the carrier bearing was on the driver's side of the car in one of those impossible to reach positions. Anyway, the engine was smoking and needed valve seals. I was working some crazy job where every five weeks I got a 4 day weekend. I collected the parts and tools I needed and on a Friday night, first day of my 4 day weekend, I went to my shop to start the job. What’s this grease all over the underside of the car? Ahh, I’ve got a split axle boot. Saturday, I pick up a repair kit and pull the axle. I realize my four day weekend is about shot so decide to put off valve seals for 5 weeks. Five weeks have past so time to do valve seals. Whats all this new grease under the car??? The boot I put on looks pregnant, like a guppy about to give birth. Apparently the grease supplied in the axle boot kit was not compatible with the axle boot. See the above paragraph. Another 5 weeks has passed. Finally, the valve stem seals get replaced.

This one is easy just cut the intermediate shaft with an angle grinder and then disconnect the carrier bearing assembly from the engine block and then just pull the intermediate shaft out

Well done.