Good video but it would have been improved if you actually showed WHERE you cut the old wires and HOW you connected the new wires (at least show ONE new wire being connected)! Thanks.
@James Carroll I know he is busy. I call it "constructive criticism" and not a "complaint" on how to make a good video better. Did you notice that I said "Good video" at the beginning or did your "selective reading" skip right by that? Perhaps he can incorporate the wire splicing component in another similar video. I don't need you to respond for him. I value his opinion more on whether this is a "complaint" or an idea to be incorporated into a future video.
Appreciate your channel, I am a subscriber. Just performed this repair based on your video. 2013 Tacoma , blower now works like new. Resistor was rusted. Parts $134.00 Canadian, no labour charges!
I am so happy! I finally got my hands on a '07 Taco 4x4 I drove my new baby home, 140 miles in a NorEaster, that we had Tuesday. Oxygen sensor hiccups and all, she's a trooper!
Freeze the video @9:45 . Notice the harness Tie Down. Pinch the tie down lock to remove it from the blower housing. This gives you much more length to work with.
Great Job! I try to always stagger my splices not to keep them touching. To bad Toyota didn't offer the contacts separately. It would have been a cleaner look. Even if I could get my old body contorted enough to get under the dash my knees wouldn't allow it.
I'll be checking the next time I change the cabin filter in my 08 Tundra that has a lot more fan positions out of curiosity. Either a lot of wires/resistors, a stepper motor and controller or a chopper regulator to vary speed.
I would have checked the cabin air filter too. That was a nasty looking car. I wouldn't be surprised if the cabin air filter was clogged causing the heater motor to work harder raising the running amps of the heater motor thus causing the resistor to fry.
Some imperial size socket will probably fit that 5.5 mm bolt better than a 6 mm one, if you don't have a 5.5 mm socket. And a pliers would work. It is only going into plastic, so it can't be too tight in there. AC motors work in a similar way as that DC motor does. If you measure the resistance on the wires coming out of it, you can tell which are the different speeds. I think the least resistance measurement is the highest speed wire. I had to double check the resistance of the wires when I replaced the fan motor in my central heater & air conditioning unit. The way it was wired, I had to use the lowest 2 speeds, on a 4 speed Chinese motor. Being a 240 volt motor, the highest speed might have sounded like a rocket engine running in my hall. Even using the lowest 2 speeds, it is still a bit loud, but it beats sweating in 93 degrees and 65% humidity. During the summer that high humidity keeps the temperature from falling much until midnight. The water molecules in the air trap the heat, and reflect the heat coming from your skin right back at you, instead of letting it radiate away. Without some air circulation is like having your own little radiant heater pointed at your face. 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit is hot. I'm guessing that the 2 thick wires are the 2 highest fan speeds, and the other 2 are low, & low/medium speed? South Main Auto channel had an interesting wiring case. Someone installed an after market radio years ago. There was a tiny spot near the end of one wire where the insulation had been cut with a stripper to make it easier to install, bit the plastic insulation was not pulled off the end of the wire. So there was only a fraction of a mm of copper wire exposed at the cut in the insulation. Years later, the tiny piece of exposed wire finally found a piece of steel under the dash and shorted out on it. It was a nightmare to locate the problem. Murphy's Law strikes again.
Also how did you actually connect the two different harnesses? I see your diagram for the colors but not sure how you did the different guage wires. Cut each wire and just wire nut them and do away with the harness?
Will this be the same setup under glove box on a 2013 Tacoma? I know the actual resistor might be different but will the location be the same on a 2013? Thanks for this video, will save me lots of money I’m sure doing it myself!
Great tutorial video! I did this on my 2017 Tacoma because it was only blowing on high. After I changed the resistor, all speeds worked for a day, then it reverted back to high speed only. Should I try changing the blower motor itself?
The problem is the motor. It pulls too many amps thereby creating the problem. You have to change blower motor, resistor, and wiring harness as they are all compromised.
@@FogataMexicana Thanks for replying. I actually figured it out after the 2nd resistor it changed blew open. After I removed the original blower motor, I noticed it was very stiff to spin when compared to a brand new one. All is well now.
Very usefull video. I had situation on 2004 2'nd gen when blower wasn't running for a while on all speeds. It happened only when temperature outside was below freezing and always at cold motor start. After few miles suddenly everything was running again. Maybe someone have any idea why?
Possible one of the windings has an open circuit. Connect an Ohm meter to the blower motors contacts. It should show resistance. With the Ohm meter connected, slowly turn the blower fan observing the impedance on the Ohm meter. The resistance will fluctuate as the blower wheel is turned. Notice how far you turn the blower wheel to observe this fluctuation. If there is an open winding you will notice a dead spot, a place where you have to turn the blower wheel further to get a fluctuation. If you find a dead spot the blower motor is shot. You may replace it with a cheapo Depot one but may end up with a whiney motor that will be hard to talk over.
@@paweskarpetowski8124 Testing requires no temperature drop. This happens to all electrical motors that has brushes. The motor by chance lands on the open winding. In some cases just bumping it around will get it off the dead winding. Once it is spinning the centrifugal force will keep it passing the dead winding. You can give it a little tap when it is dead to see if this gets it going. Might want to make sure the blower motor power connector is plugged in correctly. I might have over thought this. Maybe your system is working fine. Maybe it is a feature that won't let the blower motor come on till the engine temp is warm enough to blow hot air instead of freezing you out with cold air till the engine heats.
I've successfully installed the new resistor exactly as described in this video. That didn't change a thing. The blower still only works on high. What next?
