Very good job. And thank you. A friend and I have been working on his 92 v6 4runner and replace the water pump and the timing belt. Took it for a spin then realized that the timing was Way off. Your in depth video just showed me what i need to do to get the timing back on. Thank you.
My ace mechanic (cousin) is doing the same job on my 1993 Pickup with the 3.0 3VZE V6. Very similar to what I see with your 3.4L. I found a kit through NAPA that included all the everything including the idlers. We are at the point of removing the crank nut as I type this. Wish us luck. Happy to see your repair was successful!
I have a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner 4.7L V8 with 139K and it is OVER DUE for a timing belt. My brother is a fleet diesel mechanic and understands the job. I forwarded your video, it is very informative!! Thank you.
Excellent Video. Thank you !!! Have a 1999 Lexus GS400 (V8), 118K. Watched this video and reading the service manual several times I changed the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, etc.. A few recommendations: Have a 500+ lbs impact wrench to remove the crank bolt. Also, once the belt is on TURN THE ENGINE BY HAND using a Breaker BAR several times. If there is any binding, take off the belt, re-line the cams and crank, reinstall the belt and turn again. There should be no binding. Thanks.
Nice video. I just had all this done for my 2006 4R V-8. The water pump was leaking, so I had the whole deal done. I'm not a mechanic, so this is very interesting to me to see what they actually had to do. I also got struts, brakes, rotors, oil, etc., so I essentially have a new car. 96,000 miles and many more to roll.
thanks so much, I have a Toyota Camry 94 2.2 and this is the best video I could find to do it and also how to know when a water pump is bad. thanks, I don't know if I am capable to do the timing belt, but let see! thanks!
Schley timing belt tensioner compressor (SCH97300). This is your best friend for doing the timing belts on the 3.4L V6's. You don't waste time taking the a/c compressor off !
On point I will subscribe so sick of videos that do not share the tool techniques that is everything. I usually know how or have a diagram. But what impact to use what part to move out of the way priceless thank you!
First, I did not loosen the A/C. I forced the tensioner downward and inserted a small allen wrench to retain it in the retracted position. There is a hole in the tensioner shaft for this purpose. To retract the tensioner shaft I bought an 8" C-Clamp from Lowes and, after removing the tensioner roller, I used C-Clamp to push downward on the tensioner arm with the clamp positioned under the A/C bracket. Worked great. See next post.
BluPoint makes a special tool for compressing the belt tensioner without having to touch the A/C compressor. You can buy it from the snap-on guy. After compressing the tensioner, you insert a pin that keeps it compressed, remove the tool and change the belt.
Decent quality idlers can be found on ebay as part of a timing belt master kit and they're not terribly expensive. I paid less than $180 for all three belts (Gates), both idlers, tensioner, Aisin water pump, cam seals, crank seal and gaskets (Fel Pros). Kit price was similar for both Avalon and Lexus. Damn that pump was gone....good thing it didn't fail on the road.
No removing the radiator and no impact necessary. There is also a tool that compresses the tensioner by bracing against the water pump pulley. It includes a pin to insert through the hole in the tensioner piston to hold it back for re-installation. Pull the pin when the belt is back in place and you are good to go. Have one of those too.
Nice straightforward explanation. I'm going to attempt to do it this week. Do you always need to replace the tensioner and Idler pulleys? Or can you reuse the old ones?
Today I removed the water pump on a 3VZE and I'm a nervous wreck. Whew! Now I need replacement parts. The repair manual said I had to "remove the timing belt," and the section under "Removing the timing belt" includes removing the cam shaft pulley. Eak! The water pump came off without having to do that.
The trick to lining up timing marks is to keep slack on the tensioner side and keep belt tight on opposite side. Most Toyota timing belts even aftermarket come with marks on the belt itself. This makes it MUCH easier to install. Inalso use paper spring clips or chip clips to hold belt on cam gears until I release pin from tensioner. That helps alot too. Hopenthisntid bit of infor helps someone! :-)
Great video, Thanks! Which air impact wrench would I need? just any 3/8" drive from harbor freight? or maybe the shortest one? Can I borrow any carpenter friend's compressor for this or do I need a special compressor?
When you are turning the engine by hand with a breaker bar, it has to be turned CLOCKWISE and double check the timing marks on the Left CAM, Right CAM and the Crank. You might have to turn the engine a few times. I turned my engine 5 times, each time checking the alignment marks to make sure everything lined up before putting the engine back together.
Awesome video! :) I've been waiting for someone to come out with clear instructions on a car like this, I need to do the head gasket on mine, do you think u can make a video on that?
Hello, I am replacing the Timing belt & water pump in my 1995 T100 and my holding tool on the camshaft pulley failed and the camshaft slipped a few turns when trying to remove the camshaft pulley bolt. I relined the marks on the camshaft gear & belt, and on the top L&R cam on the belt as in your video.I also turned it around once like in you vied and it lined up at TDC & 0. Needless to say the engine will not start. I thought as long as you reline up the marks it did not mater if the camshaft was turned? Is my timing off. Any help you could give me would be appreciated.
My belt broke while driving. Did i damge the engine while trying to crank it with a broken belt “didnt relize after the fact it was broken” the two right and left cam shaft line up with marks. but crank docent fully turn “clockwise’ to resent to timing TDC point? thank you! “Cross fingers hope no bent valves"
My unanswered question is this an interference engine? If the belt breaks,will it mess up the lifters? All honda,acuras are interference, had a timing belt break on my new 85 crx, cost over 1500.00 to fix that.
Well, The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my strugel to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.
What do you have to do different if the timing belt is broken? Lets assume it is a non-interference engine like the one in this video and there is no damage. Just align the timing marks on both cam sprockets and crank pulley? If that is all then what is the problem?
the 3vze and 5vzfe (3.4l v6) are essentially the same engine with different intakes, heads, and exahust manifolds and other misc parts like ignition. They are both VZ engines. The 2vzfe, 3vze, 3vzfe, 4vzfe, and 5vzfe all look very similar with this job. The MZ engines look very similar too.
my advice to anyone is to make sure you get someone certified with Toyota service to do this work. I have a 2004 Tacoma TRD that I take good care of, and had the timing belt changed at my pops dealer at 90k miles. The dealer was a Ford dealer and I got a good deal, but the mechanic used gasket compound, which degraded the gasket and caused the pump to leak. Result: I had to spend $500 more to replace a $20 gasket two years later. Man, I was pissed.
another thing too a is check the woodruff key on the lower timing gear to see if there is any play if you stress the engine by pulling trailers or heavy load the woodruff key will start to desiagrate and the gear will be able to move messing up the timing the new woodruff key only cost 89 cents so it's worth checking out before putting on the new timing belt you will be glad you did trust me.
Another good way to get the crankshaft pulley nut off is to put a breaker bar on it and set it on the frame and give the starter one crank. The breaker bar will hit on the frame and break the nut loose.
The video was somewhat helpful. The mechanic left out the most important fact about removing the crank pulley. You need a special tool called a crankshaft pulley holding tool. Without this, the crankshaft turns when you attempt to loosen the bolt.
Just did one and the toughest part is getting the tensioner out to compress and pin it, you can get to the rear tensioner mounting bolt with 1/4 drive-6 pt. 12mm short socket from the bottom using a 12"- 1/4 drive wobble end (not u-joint) extension, be warned getting that bolt back in is the hardest part...3 tries, 30 + minutes solo, with a helper should not be too bad I also use 3- 6" Irwin (Lowes) bar clamps to hold the belt in/on the sprocket (clamp belt all 3 sprockets belt and sprocket marks aligned, leave upper most center tensioner off, roll both cams toward central upper idler (uninstalled) to pull up belt slack, try not to move crank during this, when you have all available slack in upper belt loop lay upper idler on belt and hand start bolt, torque to spec, recheck all 3 marks. pull tensioner release pin, remove clamps, roll motor over by hand 4 revolutions. if no issue... start and run very briefly, if all checks and runs normally, finish re assembly.
I compressed and pinned the tensioner in place and still could not get the timing belt on. Does the tensioner have to be removed first before the timing belt goes on?
cal R no... you could try loosening the tensioner mounting bolts a turn or two above head seating, last move is to slip the belt smooth side over smooth pulley.
Also, there are 2 ways to remove the crank bolt. The first is with an air impact wrench (500+lbs). Buy one from Harbor Freight Tools, $90. The second is to buy a "holder tool" from Amazon or Ebay that holds the crank with a Breaker Bar as you turn the crank with another Torque Wrench. This Tool is about $50.00.
this timing setup is exactly like the 94 4runner model. don't you have to take both the camshaft sprocket out. Nicely done. how much do you charge the customer?
Do you know how to get it back in time when the right gear slipped when removing the timing belt? How do I get all the gears to line up without bending the valves?
@roaming1978 That perticular model timing belt tensioner is easily loosened most of the time when you hear a noise behind the timing cover the belt is loose or the the tensioning spring is weak.
Second, You don't need an impact wrench to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt. Let the starter do the work for you. Just use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar with the handle supported against the driver side frame. Quickly tap the starter several times and the bolt will magically be loose. Careful not to start the car. I pulled the EFI relay out of the fuse box under the hood.
@carlgopa no nothing was wrong. we ended up taking it all back off. setting the cam shaft pulleys back upright then turning the master pulley to 8 degrees. put the belt back on and every thing else. fired right up and runs great! tho we came to find out that his model is supposed to be set at 10 degrees. so we are going to take it all back apart and set it once more. but yeah thanks to your video every thing works now without a hitch! we set it without a timing light or any type of tool
This is a very good video but I did several things different that made the installation easier, IMO. I just finished changing th timing belt water pump and both rollersin my 2001 Tacoma 4wheel drive V-6. See next post.
One last comment for those "shade-tree" mechanics. On a V6 or V8 make sure the slack from the timing belt is on the TENSIONER SIDE. Once the pin is released on the tensioner it will take up the slack. After releasing the PIN on the tensioner make sure ALL the teeth are in their grooves. Double check if needed. As I said below, TURN THE ENGINER by HAND using a breaker bar. It should turn with no binding. If all is good, put the engine back together and start it up !!
i have a 95 with a 3.0 ltr i had to change the nox sensor i got it back together but am wondering about the tining marks i got all 3 lined up turned the engine over and the marks ende up in the rigth place but tha mark on the bottom pulley doesent line up with the timing pionter . should it ?
BUENAS DISCULPA ME URGE SABER COMO PONER LOS ARBOLES DE LEVAS DE LA CABEZA DEL LADO DEL CHOFER SE ME QUEBRO EL ARBOL DE LEVAS Y LO REPARARON NO LO E PODIDO CONSEGUIR Y LO REPAERE Y NO PUEDO CONSEGUIR PONER LOS ARBOLES DE ESCAPE A TIEMPO NECESITO SABER COMO PONER LOS ARBOLES DE LEBAS POR FAVOR ME URGE GRACIAS
Absolutely. Never had to mess around with the air-con compressor. Loosened the bolts and bingo everything went back with out the nonsense he is talking about.
You skipped the step on how to install the timing belt. I have it off but the belt is so tight I can not place the pulley back in to tighten everything back up.
You should have recorded you actually installing the belt, because that is what people actually want to see. It's impossible to install if all the bearings are in place.
Well its not that dificult! I did my 1999 and 2000 toyota solara timing belt and water pump idelers and tensioners too! One note, i would like to say is that, you need to loose the camshaft gear first by holding the camshaft wiht a 1/2 wrench wiht the old timing belt on! So on that way you can remove the water pump! In other words toyota forruners and solaras and cammry v6 engines are pretty much the same!
Air impact is the only way to remove the crank bolt. With a crank pulley holder, you loosen the crank bolt; and no need to remove radiator if you don't want too.
alguien sabe cual es el tiempo de una camioneta toyota de redilas 1994 motor 2.4 de 8 valvulas y por q estara gastando demasiada gasolina si el motor esta recien ajustado
Seriously...no removing mounts, tensioners or anything. Drain coolant, remove top radiator hose, fan shroud, drive belts, four fan nuts, two fan pulleys, top timing cover, middle timing cover, chain wrench and breaker bar for crank pulley, lower timing cover, the spreader tool mentioned in earlier comment between tensioner pulley and old water pump pulley, spread to compress and insert pin into small hole. remove top idler, remove belt.
i had a mechanic do my timing belt water pump idler pulley and cam and crank seals he didn't take out the radiator and it got all bent up had to buy a new one so take out the radiator when you do this job.
You are so wrong on how to remove the crank pulley .... There is a video on my you tube channel that shows hoe to take it of in about 30 seconds ...... Works every time ..... EVERY TIME.
That a/c bracket is a bitch i replaced my belt on my 97 bout 7 months ago I still got another 70,000 miles b4 in have to replace it. Another thing that goes out on those engines are the cam seals i as well replaced all 4. Along with new plugs and coils and valve cover gaskets. Brand new tensor as well. I love my 4runner take care of it and it will take care of you.
UNO VA EN LA POLEA DE LA BANDA DE TIEMPO Y LOS OTROS 2 NO SE COMO VAN EN EL ENGRANE DE ENMEDIO DE ARBOL DE LEVAS DE ADMISION OSEA EN EL ARBOL DE LEVAS DE LA BANDA DE TIEMPO, AL PONER EL ARBOL DE ARRIBA CON LA BVANDA DE TIEMPO ESE NO TENGO PROBLEMA MI PROBLEMA ES COMO PONER LOS DE ABAJO Q SON 2 ARBOLES CON ENGRANE CADA UNO SON ÑLOS DE ESCAPE NECESITO SABER COMO VAN GRACIAS
