You are very clever. I love seeing people develop their own solutions to make requirements work based on the parts / space / budget they have. This is inspiring! Thank you!
I have been following the UK woodworking scene for while and it is always fascinating how great everything is explained. Simple solution for simple man.
You put together a nice, succinct, and useful shop visit. Evidence that others agree, though RU-vid hasn't promoted you, is that the average good video moves 1 in 50 viewers to like it. The real stinkers get fewer than 1 in 80 likes. You've had 1 in 25 viewers express their liking... including me. Thank you.
Excellent I purchased a MFT by mistake with no accessories. Festool rarely tells you what you need in total. I have called them to change it and I received a 300 dollar list of parts. You are the first person to have given me a means of doing the best with my error. Very very good simple complete and thorough. Thank you
Your welcome, Thank you so much for your comment . I looked also, people were always asking for a solution. I hope I have one. I am I the process of modifying the front clamp from screw to a cam clamp I will upload as soon as possible
Best solution I have seen so far. Better than Festool original or the alternate rail hinge products Peter Millard presents. Also better than his self built one. So simple, so good. Especially as you also fold away the whole table. Genius :-)
Thankyou very much for the comment it means a lot to me that I can pass on a solution to a problem, that is simple to make , cheap and gives better service than the original. am sure others will copy it, I just hope they don’t “steal” my idea as their own. This you see a lot on RU-vid. All I need the recognition that the original idea and concept was mine, and of course more subscribers. But once again Thankyou for your comment .
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. Two questions please: 1: How have you fastened the hinges together and to the rail? 2: Where did you get the aluminium sections? Great video. Looking forward to seeing more.
John Deadman The hinges are welded together, but could be bolted. It is important to leave room underneath for the hinge to fold into at the lowest height. The hinges are bolted to the track saw with countersunk screws and tapped into the hinge plate. The aluminium section was what I had from an old project, I think I was given it, but it can be purchased it’s called 80/ 20 I have found though that if you use two of the tall dogs you can keep it at 90 degrees and it doesn’t need the front guide as it will set down on the board you require to cut very securely. I really need to revisit this and go through all the questions people have asked, and maybe explain again more clearly. My next video when I get back to Uk will be a metal lathe rebuild. But I fit the track saw revisit in first. Glad you like it.
@@josephKEOarthur will do this at some point, but am so busy being retired, I have no time at present with other projects, I have 2 new hinges to attach together , this I will show, I have an idea how to re present this project so let’s hope I get a day free soon
I did the same hinge as you at rear, but at the front end I used hinges again but linned them up with two dog pins entering two dog holes holes in mft top so a total auto hight adgustment, and where saw blade runs I have drop down sides using auto lock shelf hinges its got a 140cm track, so its at mft top about 60cm. x 150cm, with drop shelfs at far end so can support about 180cm width at rear, at front it just has 2 telescoping tubes to support wood if needed so when folded down i can walk down each side of the mft bench. another handy thing i added are 3D printed dog hole flush plugs that just sit in the beveedl top of dog holes to stop those screws falling though the unused dog holes, and they will not damage tools or blades. the only negative, is its horizonal space for junk to be put on!
A quick follow up to my previous question about fixing the hinges together, as I don’t have a welder I found a product called JP Weld which is an epoxy resin containing slivers of steel. This worked perfectly and I’m also planning to use it to fix the hinges to the bottom of the rail.
david wilson thank you, I have building a new double garage, so not been active, but comments like yours makes me want to restart, I know it’s a small channel, but time is beating my ideas at the moment. Thanks
Excellent and elegant! Thanks a lot for the tip! I looked thru the comments but didn't see if you mentioned where you got the aluminum extrusion for the fence. I Googled it but didn't find any that look like yours. Happen to have a link? Thanks.
yesssss!!!!! thank you it helped great idea as a beginner you have to be creative just to make the money rol in and you can buy expensive stuff 😬 thank you 🙏🏿🙏🏿
Just found this myself. I have been trying to engineer an MFT clone myself; the double hinges are sheer genius. Can't figure how you made them, though.
The hinges were fire door bearing hinges, I welded the hinge flanges to make basically a z hinge , someone has comments swing door hinges may work, but ones I have are not accurate enough My hinges have not worn shifted or gone out of square in any way, only regret is the rail I wish was longer for a greater depth of cut, hey ho what ya gonna do!!, life goes on
@@conkcat Thanks so much for your quick supply; I knew my lack of welding skills would catch up with me soon. I see some ball bearing commercial hinges on Amazon that I assume will be motion-controlled; I think I will give those a shot.
Ya I’m using the slow steady hinges from home depot , rather than the plain galvanized ones - that have more give/loose. The steady ones are perfect, but slow hinges…. Good and precise.
Great ideaI I've only just seen this and although your video has been on RU-vid for a while now I'm wondering if you'd considered adding a spring under the front mechanism to save having to lift or depress it (to accommodate different thickness work pieces) before tightening in position?
Thankyou kindly for you comments . It was a thought, but there was not enough room in reality with that unit. At the moment the area where this track saw unit was is now taken over with my cnc build and new laser, so it will have to find a new home somewhere in my emporium of dirt.
Thank you! This looks great! I didn't quite understand how the slop in the hinge was mitigated. Is it the hinge that tightens up as the rail is brought down, or is it the front support that squares it?
Any news on the update on this yet please? 🙏. This is so clever very well done to you sir. Just what I’m after doing. Please, please could you do a update real soon ?
Ok , I will look and make a re-visit to this in the next couple of weeks when I can get to the unit as it’s in my other workshop which is full at the moment.
@@conkcat Ah, one last thing, have you thought about making these in kits for people all the components all done, ready to go and install. I’m sure there would be lots of people willing to buy these. I for one definitely would. There is high demand for this? I look forward to your update soon, many thanks, Dean.
Spot on, I've got the same saw and have been looking to do something similar. I don't have access to welding gear so will go with bolts for the hinge etc. Can you tell me what you usedas thr locator pin at the front side?
Lee Page I took a price of aluminium and shaped it, it is fitted into a piece of extruded aluminium I had, this was used to create the height adjustment. Note aluminium is better as the track is the same material, anything harder would wear the track, a simple piece of plastic would also do the job, but dependant upon use would probably have to be changed more regularly due to wear .
H2Dwoat I have not had to adjust it at all, but I do a quick check occasionally by putting two of the bench dogs along the side edge. Has always been good, only thing I wish was I had a slightly longer track to make full use of the bench depth, as you need space to have the track saw sitting on before cut. Maybe I buy one more length of Makita track( better than the Titan) . But this may be done if I move this unit to another location
I’ve had a similar idea (because I have the ridgid track saw and its track isn’t compliant with after market rail systems), but have struggled getting the double hinge to be “exactly square.” 😢 Any tips? I was thinking of using a machinist 1-2-3 block as a positive stop on each side when pre drilling and screwing in.
I used fire door hinges with bearings in them from Screwfix in the UK The hinges were welded together, then adjusted accordingly to be square to the dog holes in my board. I did make a block at the front to locate it even more accurately but found it was not needed. If I want super accuracy I put the dogs in the dog holes one at the hinge end and one closet to me , but very rarely need it. I hope this helps
