Found video to learn all about hydraulic hoses & couplers. Found a stash of hoses & couplers in the GCI55garage shop. Pirtek is running a shop down the road, so we've used them. If I can help the shop save $ and save these couplers from getting scrapped. Thanks, Jared, for giving your time & wisdom to make this series of RU-vid Videos.
I just bought a jd 5300 and all of this is new to me. I want to add a hydraulic top link and side link. Hopefully after watching umpteen videos I will figure it out. I also want to say that I really appreciate the straightforward explanation and advice from over the nonsense.
Very informative! I've kept the video in the "Watch Later" section, so I can refer to it in the future. Thanks for sharing all that valuable information!
Watching to gain knowledge for an upcoming project. I am going to add onto/hook into my Kubota L185 hydraulic system to power a front end loader. Will also add 2 remotes to rear, 1 remote with a control lever onboard and 1 remote that is simply a live remote to run a log splitter.
Thanks Jared, I'm here because I traded my skid steer for a tractor with 3rd function hydraulics with small connectors that don't fit my implements. Need those flat-faced connectors on my tractor! Thanks!
I am watching because I know nothing about couplers. I have a BX2380 that had the quick attach. Leaked like a sieve when it was delivered. I put on a diverter valve to have a hydraulic 3rd pin. Love it and it fixed the leaking almost. However after some heavy loader work over a few hours It started leaking again. Upon further review it appears the bottom (male side) is where it is leaking. I will be removing the loader today and taking the lower half part and see if reseating everything will make a difference. Hope I learn more from your video.
Jared, I tell you this almost every episode but your content is super helpful and production getting better all the time. You know we’re moving into the homesteading lifestyle and there are a hundred skills required, of which I am a master of none. When it comes to the Kubotas, I can come here and either get great information or request it. Your channel is gonna boom, this is what YT is all about to us. Thanks for making these videos. BTW, I am on the don’t know side of the slide and got lost when you were talking about the basic of the hydraulic system in general…I recall you were talking about unbalanced compression within the cylinder…and it would be great to have an overview on the principles, components and characteristics of a tractor hydraulic system. From this I kinda now know why I hate my loader (555) on my L3560 and you like your loader (805) because my hydraulic system is apparently releasing pressure to protect the mechanical components. That must be on the component end vice the tractor end, correct?
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll never get tired of hearing positive feedback. It’s what keeps me going. Any time someone likes the video, comments on it, or shares it, it helps the RU-vid algorithm. Please share any of the videos anywhere you think people can benefit. It’ll only help the channel. I will definitely try to do a hydraulic basics video in the near future. How familiar are you will physics such as force? Pressure over area? All hydraulic pressure is measured in psi, pounds per square in. We will keep it easy. Let’s say we have 1000# PSI. If we have a hydraulic cylinder with a piston that has an area of 4 square inches, that cylinder will provide 4,000 pounds of force. The larger the cylinder, the more the force. The LA805 uses larger cylinders than the LA554, which is why it lifts more. Now for the pressure relief valve. Our hydraulic pumps are what is called fixed displacement. That means they always move a fixed volume of fluid for every rotation. If the fluid doesn’t have anywhere to go the pump can be damaged or it will actually stall your engine as it tries to turn over the pump. When you actuate your loader you are moving fluid to push/pull a cylinder. That’s great until the cylinder doesn’t move, either due to inability to lift the load or end of stroke. At this point, the pressure starts to spike, the relief valve opens, and allows fluid to go to the tank. If it didn’t do that you’d have the scenario I mentioned earlier. You and I have the same relief valve so both our systems open at the same pressure. It’s the cylinders that make the difference. I hope that helps.
@@JaredsShop Ah, that explanation of the cylinders makes sense. Interesting, I had ordered the 805 loader but at the last minute my dealer said that the difference between the two loaders was mechanical and the greater size/weight of the components in the 805. They said that the 805’s weight took lift capability from the 3560, because the latter’s lift capability was lower than the 805’s. So, they advised, that with each lift the tractor had to lift the additional weight of the 805 along with the load. I now think they simply had extra 555s and no 805s on hand, but lead me to believe it was a mechanical, vice hydraulic, limitation.
@@appalachianheartsong5487 I would agree. That’s what they had so that’s what they pushed. Yes, the LA805 loader is bigger and heavier, but it must be to lift more. The cylinders are designed to lift that heavier loader as well as more weight, which is why it is rated so much higher.
Jared, thanks for clearing up the confusion about the couplers. Nice to see how the rear remotes connect. Hope to catch more of your videos. Looks like you have top n tilt kit with backhoe mounts. I want to add top n tilt, I would like see a video on the top n tilt system and install if you have the time.
Thank you for the feedback! I do have too and tilt and have a backhoe. I also do have a video of the top and tilt. Adding Kubota Top And Tilt To The Tractor - #62 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YmSjoenlLfQ.html
If you don’t have rear remotes I have an install video for them. Adding Rear Remotes To Kubota L3560 - #49 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b3p2w7IP_oA.html
Great content. I checked out this video to try and figure out how to splice a set of couplers for my JD1025R. I recently purchased a 54" snowblower with quick connect mount and also a 54" plow blade. The kit includes a hydraulic cylinder for lift but not for angling the plow. JD has an upgrade kit which I installed but the hoses are too short to reach the manifold. I noticed that the snowblower hoses for the chute have fixed couplers in the middle so I'm trying to figure out how to remove them and replace with quick couplers. That way I can switch from my blower to my plow easily.
Currently trying to replace the couplers on my skid steer but also adapt a backhoe and a universal pump plate to run 3 point stuff. Want them all to match but want to make sure I'm selecting a good design with proper flow and pressure ratings.
Thanks to your video, I know I have breakaway couplers on my B2650 for my log splitter. I was told it was not best for hydraulic pump to use log splitters on a tractor, I keep the fluid full, tractor level
Reason i'm watching- trying to learn what the heck i need to get a Tee into one of my hard plumbed lines somewhere on 3038E, so i can get a pressure gauge connected when needed. Thanks!
Great info. I am watching to get an answer on whether or not I can use a ball type pioneer fitting to match up to a tippet style pioneer fitting. Dang new tractors anyway.😁
I have not once used a Coupler... But i have been thinking of converting a couple of bottle jack to work with a hydraulic hand pump. It gets pretty tight under some stuff we lift. And if i can be even slightly farther away it would be safer/nicer.
Just make sure the coupler is up to the pressure. Cylinders attached to power packs after work at higher pressures so I’m not sure if you’d be utilizing anything that high or not.
When I removed the backhoe the other day the female connector on the supply hose was supposed to click on to the male return hose to close the fluid loop. It did not fit, 2 different fittings. Not a problem if you never disconnect the backhoe........I need to replace the male fitting with one that mates with the coupler to complete the fluid circuit when I have to remove the backhoe and start the tractor. The previous owner or someone else did it, but I just found out about it.
Hi Jared, Thank you for your information. A couple years back we bought a baler from a friend. We only have 1 set of remotes on a 69 Ford 5200. (rowcrop 5000). We have a loader on the tractor. My friend installed npt couplers on the 4 lines that connect the loader so when we run the baler the loader valve runs it. There is always one or 2 lines with pressure on it. I am looking at changing these pioneer couplers 1/2 inch, to a type you can connect easier with pressure. My husband has bad shoulders and it is hard for either of us to connect or disconnect at times. I wish I knew how to connect these in a way so that the loader lines on the tractor stayed connected all of the time or had an easier way to add a 2nd set of remotes. thanks.
I just bought my first skid loader. The aux hyd. Has flat faced couplers I know nothing about them. I wanna build a mower for the front from my three pt brush hog and add a few more front attachments
2016. 3032r. Ive never needed to use the 2 remotes on back of my john deere. I just purchased a speeco 3pt splitter. The hoses from the splitter will not fit. I'm trying to figure out why. Obviously I gotta drop a size on the couplers. I didn't expect that but John Deere probably has their own size like alot of other things. I will watch your video and see if it will help
Great video. Very interesting. Back in the 90s I hauled trash for a trucking company out of Newark NJ... We had dump trailers and live bottom walking floor trailers. We'd drop and hook at times and i ran into a situation where someone had an "B" type poppet instead of "A".. it made for a long day... But now I know why they didn't connect...30 years later...lolol. They were huge poppets too.. My kubota has poppets now...is the flow from ball to poppets different???
Thanks for the story! That’s very interesting and funny to hear. There is a little bit of flow difference as the opening on the ball style is usually a little larger than the opening on the poppets. I wouldn’t worry about changing them just for that reason. If they ever cause you problems, like mine have had, then I’d switch them over to ball style or to flat face.
Using a ball poppet type and a standard poppet type QRC connected to each other causes some slight issues with the flow path, which results in “turbulence” in the oil, the byproduct is increased heat and slower flow. Manufacturers do not recommend it. That said in 90% of ag situations you would never know the difference and it may not cause a problem. If you were running.a very demanding implement with a fast and large motor where the oil flow required is at the maximum end of the spectrum for the size of the couplings, then you may experience issues.
i bought a 2023 New Holland workmaster 75 4x4 Cab Tractor, It has a (newer) style Remote coupler on the back that i have never seen! Flat Face i think??
I’m not sure. I would guess it is likely a pioneer as that’s a common type used for rear remotes. Flat face are truly flat on their face. Pioneer will have a socket but can be mounted inside of a casing.
My confusion comes with the THREADED ENDS of these couplers. NPT, NPTF, ORB, etc. Tapered threads (NPT) versus ORB with O-rings,versus BOSS, etc. I have ISO 4250s on my 3rd function, but the thread onto a male end ORB with an O-ring, as it is set up now. I question whether this is correct. It doesn't leak when in use. I did recently have an issue where I had two 4250s get the threads stripped out and shooting oil everywhere, but this may have been due to a "side load" issue, as it happened on one attachment only. I believe I need to adjust a hose clamp position as it seems to pull the hose tight and stripping the threads.
The L3560 kit doesn’t come with couplers. It has 1/2” male NPT fittings that come with caps. I’d recommend buying the flat face couplers in the description.
I am adding a hydraulic top link from Agristore and they are asking if I have a Ball type or Valve type connector? I'm using rear remotes for a Kubota L series tractor (my remotes look exactly like what you showed in the video), but you didn't say which male fittings connect to those remotes. Ball type or valve type?
Does size matter on couplers? They put 1/4" on my 3rd function for my tractor. Does that restrict hydraulic flow where the implement used won't get as much flow? So say a grapple, it won't clamp as hard with a smaller coupler vs a bigger coupler?
Thanks for the info. I have MF tractor and one of the quick connect female couplers would not easily disconnect to the point I had to physically unscrew the female coupler to disconnect. Fluid loss. So I bought another female coupler and screwed into place. I pushed in hose and connected no problem, but now I can't disconnect hose again. Any thoughts?
Hydraulic guy told me what type my CAT 302 used for aux hydraulic lines…but can’t remember exact name timed with like flatness is there one that flatness?
I got a crimping tool &I want to make my hose I will be useing 3/8'' hose , makeing a towable backhoe ,I need to no what fitting I will need & what type of hose I will need, Are they a book I can buy
I'm looking to rent a Skid steer post hole digger to use on my tractor. The digger comes with Flat Faced fittings and my tractor has Ag ( i believe Pioneer style) fittings. Trying decide if i can just buy the adapters I saw available online, or if there is an advantage in upgrading my tractor and my plow to flat face.
It usually takes watching several videos to fully understand a problem I am dealing with, But you answered all my questions in this one video. great job, thanks
@@aughtago Awesome. Thank you. Pioneer are not flat face , but I’d definitely recommend flat face couplers. I put the style I use in the description. I’ve moved all of my attachments to those. I have a plow, auger, grapple; and two 4-1 buckets.
yes, my tractor has 1/2" 5675 (Pioneer) for the 3rd function to my quick attach plow. The Auger I'll be renting comes with Flat Face fittings. After watching your video, I'll be upgrading my 3rd function on my tractor to a standard flat face set , and my plow to a pressure relief flat face set. using the links you provided. Thanks again
Bought a tractor a week ago. 3rd function was installed with pioneer fittings. Also bought a grapple and tree puller that are both flat face. HOPING there is an adapter or something??
You could make your own adapter but I’d swap them out for flat face like the link in the description. That way you get all of the positives listed in the video.
@@JaredsShop yes, that’s what I ended up doing. Dealer gave me a set of flat face couplers for the mix up. 5 min and some thread tape later, I had them swapped out. Been doing all kinds of grapple damage around the property this weekend!
Hi Jered. I hope you still monitor these video comments because I need you help. The reason I'm watching this video is because I bought my first tractor and don't know anything. The tractor came with front connections for hydraulic implements and a third function lever. I don't know anything about the couplers other that determining they are the Pioneer type. I don't know the brand or size. I ordered a grapple and it arrived yesterday. I was able to mount the grapple on the tractor, but the hydraulic hoses have flat face couplers. Again, I don't know the brand or size of them. I assume either the couplers on the tractor or the couplers on the grapple must be changed. My questions are, Do I change the couplers on the tractor or the grapple? It seems it would be easier to change the grapple couplers since they aren't mounted or under pressure. It's that what you think? How do I find the brand and size of the couplers? I can see some numbers and letters on the grapple couplers but I can't see them on the tractor couplers because they are facing towards the loader frame. Are all coupler threads universal? If not, how do I figure out what threads I have/need? Any help you can provide is most appreciated!
i have a john deere 2032r and i have ordered the wrong size couplers 3 times. no where does deere tell you the size used. i have been guessing wrong 3 times.
trying to find out what to do about the QD connector on my front loader that has started leaking bad. I have not taken anything apart, I am thinking it could be a O-ring it is an older metric tractor.
Jared, I'm looking for hydraulics 101 level information. The state hired me as a part time heavy equipment operator, but they like me to do mechanical work as well. :-)
Another nice job Jared. I truly appreciate your efforts. I'm still awaiting the arrival of my 805 loader for my L3560 Kubota, should have been here by now but... Also awaiting the arrival of 60" EA wickeder grapple. What would you recommend I tell the dealer to install on the tractor for the 3rd function as far as the fittings? If I heard you right you would recommend the 1/2" flat face couplers one male and one female on the tractor and the implement. I guess I'm asking if I should be requesting a certain orientation that would require elbows or other specific fittings. Thank you in advance. Tyger
The biggest reason people say it’s not great to use splitters on tractors is because you are using the hydraulic system hard, and constant, which creates a lot of heat. Smaller tractors have open center hydraulics, which create a lot of heat on their own, and are always moving fluid through all of the valves. Larger tractors, excavators, and skid steers use closed center hydraulics which only move fluid when needed (on demand), generate less heat, and generally have more capacity and better cooling. That’s not saying you can’t use a splitter on your tractor, I just wouldn’t use it all day every day. Another thing to consider is that you’re putting extra wear and tear on your tractor, as well as racking up hours. Most feel it’s better to have a splitter with its own motor to put the hours on. A motor for a splitter is a lot cheaper than your tractor engine. Regarding bottoming out rams and auto retract, I don’t totally agree but I don’t totally disagree. Any time you button out a cylinder it is just like doing the same with your loader or any other cylinder. It’s also the same as if you’re trying to pick up something too heavy. Your relief valve is kicking in to relive fluid and keep the pump from dead heading. The longer the relief valve is engaged the harder it is for the hydraulics and the more heat generated. Your automatic retract, which uses a self canceling detent valve, is the same thing. It is putting hydraulics into relief until it kicks out. Not a bad thing as long as it doesn’t sit there doing it for a long time.
Don't know%$@ about couplers and would like to know why so many types and why they just don't standardized on an easy to use on and off coupler. Just doesn't make sense.
I know. It’d be nice if they would standardize down to at least a couple. Unfortunately, a lot of these have been around for a long time and it’d be hard to get rid of them.
